C6 Window Regulator
#1
C6 Window Regulator
Well this is my 1st post and first time on this forum and i'm really in need of some advice. I am not the most experienced when it comes to cars and I took my 2007 c6 to the dealer and they say it will cost 907$ to replace the passenger side window regulator. If I can find the part cheaper, do it myself or take the part to another shop to replace it that would be excellent as I don't exactly have 907$ just laying around. Any advice or help is extremely appreciated!
*Sorry if I am breaking any rules as I already posted this in C6 Tech/Performance but it didn't seem to be getting any attention over there. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...regulator.html *
*Sorry if I am breaking any rules as I already posted this in C6 Tech/Performance but it didn't seem to be getting any attention over there. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...regulator.html *
#2
Team Owner
Since you admit you aren't very experienced with cars you probably shouldn't attempt this job yourself. It's pretty involved. Find an independent shop/mechanic who can do it for you, likely at a pretty good savings compared to the dealer.
Here's a discussion with an illustration and pic of what the part is:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-broke-n.html
And another discussion where an ebay service was used to rebuild the regulator (may not be the same issue you have though):
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...regulator.html
Here's a discussion with an illustration and pic of what the part is:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-broke-n.html
And another discussion where an ebay service was used to rebuild the regulator (may not be the same issue you have though):
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...regulator.html
#3
Thank you guys for the replies it helps a lot. Can you guys direct me where I can buy the part for cheap? I talked to the dealership and I do know a few guys who work there. If I get them the part they can do the labor for like 120$ since the diagnostic just to find out what it is cost me 80$. I really appreciate it you guys are helping alot!
#4
Instructor
My driverside went out all of a sudden, removed the panel and found the cable came off the pulley mechanism. After taking everything apart and spending about 3 hours I was able to fix it. That was a year and a half ago and I drive it daily.
4 hours of my life and $0 ,,, just saying
4 hours of my life and $0 ,,, just saying
#5
Safety Car
If the part actually went bad the $900 quote makes sense. It's fairly labor intensive. If you're mechanically inclined or at least adventurous, it's about a $150 job.
#7
Le Mans Master
Assuming your dealer is correct (a BIG dangerous assumption), GMPARTSHOUSE sells the regulator for $366 so $900 for the whole job is not unreasonable. The problem with the labor isn't just removing and reinstalling all the parts (door trim, speakers, etc.) but also in getting the window adjusted and working properly with the new regulator. But if it is something simple like a loose connector...
It might help in diagnosing your dealer's competence if we knew your symptoms.
It might help in diagnosing your dealer's competence if we knew your symptoms.
#10
Race Car Tech
GM Part # 22895755 for driver side (LH)
GM part # 22895756 for passenger side (RH)
#11
Racer
After looking at the situation carefully, I came to this conclusion, and as a result ended up fixing neighborhood cars. I have repaired about ten windows as a result.
Personal opinion...when these windows reach their "stop", one side of the cable has quite a bit of tension at the cable swedge and the other side becomes relaxed and the cable swedge popped out of it's retainer. The next time the window is activated you have a real mess. What I did to correct this was drill two small holes in the metal guide rail about 1/2" from the cable swedge. I secured the cable with safety wire by lashing it down with the wire. Therefore the cable swedge can't jump out of it's retainer when it becomes slack. I have applied this "mod" to two Buicks, an Olds and a Toyota for about a total of about ten windows...no failures yet. The Vette has not failed as of now, but I know what to do for a cost of zero dollars to fix it. The cable swedge needs to be secured so it will not jump out of it's retainer.
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: San Clemente CA
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Fairly common problem is correct. This is my story....The window on another GM car that I no longer have, "dropped" one day without being selected down. I opened up the door panel and found the cable was a mess and tangled up within the drum. These windows have no electrical "cut-out" in the motor when they reach the end of their travel. You can see for yourself, put a half empty paper towel roll at the top of the window and select the window up. It will just crush the tube. Just pure tension stops these things.
After looking at the situation carefully, I came to this conclusion, and as a result ended up fixing neighborhood cars. I have repaired about ten windows as a result.
Personal opinion...when these windows reach their "stop", one side of the cable has quite a bit of tension at the cable swedge and the other side becomes relaxed and the cable swedge popped out of it's retainer. The next time the window is activated you have a real mess. What I did to correct this was drill two small holes in the metal guide rail about 1/2" from the cable swedge. I secured the cable with safety wire by lashing it down with the wire. Therefore the cable swedge can't jump out of it's retainer when it becomes slack. I have applied this "mod" to two Buicks, an Olds and a Toyota for about a total of about ten windows...no failures yet. The Vette has not failed as of now, but I know what to do for a cost of zero dollars to fix it. The cable swedge needs to be secured so it will not jump out of it's retainer.
After looking at the situation carefully, I came to this conclusion, and as a result ended up fixing neighborhood cars. I have repaired about ten windows as a result.
Personal opinion...when these windows reach their "stop", one side of the cable has quite a bit of tension at the cable swedge and the other side becomes relaxed and the cable swedge popped out of it's retainer. The next time the window is activated you have a real mess. What I did to correct this was drill two small holes in the metal guide rail about 1/2" from the cable swedge. I secured the cable with safety wire by lashing it down with the wire. Therefore the cable swedge can't jump out of it's retainer when it becomes slack. I have applied this "mod" to two Buicks, an Olds and a Toyota for about a total of about ten windows...no failures yet. The Vette has not failed as of now, but I know what to do for a cost of zero dollars to fix it. The cable swedge needs to be secured so it will not jump out of it's retainer.
#14
PHOTOSHOP SPECIALIST