Completely disabling Active Handling?
#1
Completely disabling Active Handling?
Yesterday I noticed that the DIC was saying "service active handling" message on my 08 c6 z06. Then it went away, came back a few minutes later. I am interested in disabling this system completely. My last corvette was wrecked due to a faulty steering position sensor when active handling kicked in at 60mph on the highway. I know the risks and the dangers of disabling active handling, but I am fine with that, I much rather have an accident due to my fault than because there was a problem/malfunction with active handling. I have read something about unplugging the steering position sensor or the YAW sensor/box behind the stereo units? Which method would allow me to keep ABS without no chance of active handling kicking in?
#2
Instead of trying to disable the system, pull the codes to figure out what the problem is that needs to be fixed instead.
#3
Active Handling
I have rebuilt several C6's that have had the active handling pull the car hard right and then a crash. All had an error code for the Active handling.
One was a 07 Convert that rolled three times after turning hard right. There has been a lot written about this and yet not a lot of good answers. On my C6, I have bypassed the ABS pump with a simple resistor so the system thinks the pump is there, so no codes and no hard right turns by computer. The connector going to the steering wheel position sensor seems to be the real issue. I guess one alternative is to replace the connector with a hard connection. (solder) No fretting, no bimetal issues etc. ( my professional background is connection reliability testing for Bell Labs.)
Remember the good old days when you had to 'pump' the brakes when it was slippery? I would rather get myself in trouble, rather than have the car suddenly pull to the right and crash it for me. Oh by the way, I do not drive this car in the winter.
There was a thread in the 07 time frame with a TON of people saying, 'YA, I was driving along and my car just turned to the right, into a gas station. All by itself. I guess it needed gas" . Lots of comments like that. I remember someone saying he was such a good driver that even if he was going 80 on a country two lane road and the right ABS came on he could easily overcontrol it. RIGHT. Wrong. By the time he figured out he was sideways it would be a little late.
Here's one that I just finished that went hard right for about 180 degrees and took out the left front:
I have been driving in Minnesota for over 60 years and no accidents. I do wear my seatbelt and learned to drive before ABS and Active handling. MN has some of the worst winter driving and you can survive if you drive within your limits. I helped out a friend and drove his semi for years part time. Try driving an 18 wheeler on pure ice. Been there as well.
Just my .02 cents worth.
One was a 07 Convert that rolled three times after turning hard right. There has been a lot written about this and yet not a lot of good answers. On my C6, I have bypassed the ABS pump with a simple resistor so the system thinks the pump is there, so no codes and no hard right turns by computer. The connector going to the steering wheel position sensor seems to be the real issue. I guess one alternative is to replace the connector with a hard connection. (solder) No fretting, no bimetal issues etc. ( my professional background is connection reliability testing for Bell Labs.)
Remember the good old days when you had to 'pump' the brakes when it was slippery? I would rather get myself in trouble, rather than have the car suddenly pull to the right and crash it for me. Oh by the way, I do not drive this car in the winter.
There was a thread in the 07 time frame with a TON of people saying, 'YA, I was driving along and my car just turned to the right, into a gas station. All by itself. I guess it needed gas" . Lots of comments like that. I remember someone saying he was such a good driver that even if he was going 80 on a country two lane road and the right ABS came on he could easily overcontrol it. RIGHT. Wrong. By the time he figured out he was sideways it would be a little late.
Here's one that I just finished that went hard right for about 180 degrees and took out the left front:
I have been driving in Minnesota for over 60 years and no accidents. I do wear my seatbelt and learned to drive before ABS and Active handling. MN has some of the worst winter driving and you can survive if you drive within your limits. I helped out a friend and drove his semi for years part time. Try driving an 18 wheeler on pure ice. Been there as well.
Just my .02 cents worth.
Last edited by awschucks; 10-08-2014 at 09:26 AM.
#4
Le Mans Master
I assure you ABS and stability control have saved lives/crashes than they caused by orders of magnitude.
Reminds me of my buddy who won't wear a seatbelt because it trapped his buddy in a burning car or something like that.
Reminds me of my buddy who won't wear a seatbelt because it trapped his buddy in a burning car or something like that.
#5
Team Owner
I don't think that it is possible to disable active handling while still leaving ABS intact.
If you telescope the steering wheel often, it is more likely to have problems with the connector on the column. It shouldn't be this way, granted, but it is what it is. Best to put the wheel where you like it and leave it there.
If you telescope the steering wheel often, it is more likely to have problems with the connector on the column. It shouldn't be this way, granted, but it is what it is. Best to put the wheel where you like it and leave it there.
#6
I completely agree and understand that active handling has saved people on countless occasions, I however do not intend to disable the ABS, just active handling. I dont drive the car in winter and try to avoid rain. I read that pulling the steering position sensor will disable active handling while still leaving ABS to function normally. If anyone can confirm that doing so will disable AH while leaving ABS on it will be of great help.
#7
Team Owner
I should have been more clear. It may be that AH can be disabled by just disconnecting something. I didn't think it could be disabled without producing codes and the CEL. If you don't mind doing it every time you restart the car, you can disable it with the button on the console though.
I don't think I could drive a car with the check engine light permanently illuminated though.
I don't think I could drive a car with the check engine light permanently illuminated though.
#8
I completely agree and understand that active handling has saved people on countless occasions, I however do not intend to disable the ABS, just active handling. I dont drive the car in winter and try to avoid rain. I read that pulling the steering position sensor will disable active handling while still leaving ABS to function normally. If anyone can confirm that doing so will disable AH while leaving ABS on it will be of great help.
Did you ever pull the Steering wheel sensor? I am interested in the same thing. keeping ABS but getting rid of AHS.
#9
#10
Team Owner
You can turn off active handling with the button on your console.
The system has four modes.
Mode 1 is the default when you turn the car on. Full traction control and full active handling.
Mode 2 is one press of the button which is traction control off Active Handling on.
Mode 3 is two presses in five seconds. This is traction control off and active handling in competitive driving mode which will give you greater tolerances for sliding sideways (what you want on a road course)
Mode 4 is to press and hold for greater than five seconds. This will be traction control and active handling off. No intervention from either system.
Mode 1 is the default when you turn the car on. Full traction control and full active handling.
Mode 2 is one press of the button which is traction control off Active Handling on.
Mode 3 is two presses in five seconds. This is traction control off and active handling in competitive driving mode which will give you greater tolerances for sliding sideways (what you want on a road course)
Mode 4 is to press and hold for greater than five seconds. This will be traction control and active handling off. No intervention from either system.
#11
Racer
Also, if you are getting the "service active handling" in the DIC, active handling is disabled at that time because it detected a fault.
So you are good, you can clear it off the DIC by selecting something else after it comes on. I had this with my Cadillac, so I "assume" you can clear it from the DIC in the corvette as well. Good luck, but I'd replace the item that is coding personally. I did on my Caddy for sure.
So you are good, you can clear it off the DIC by selecting something else after it comes on. I had this with my Cadillac, so I "assume" you can clear it from the DIC in the corvette as well. Good luck, but I'd replace the item that is coding personally. I did on my Caddy for sure.
#12
Le Mans Master
Old thread returns from dead. I was concerned reading the earlier post about a Vette making a hard turn to right which caused it to roll. Is this really possible if you don't skid into a curb or similar barrier?
I'd think the low CoG and general safety design would have us skidding sideways rather than flipping or doing endo's.
I'd think the low CoG and general safety design would have us skidding sideways rather than flipping or doing endo's.
#13
#14
Team Owner
If you use the console button to do it, you'll have to do it every time the engine is started.
#15
When you have the AHS failure it activates the brakes whether it was turned off or not. The failure causes an overide of the button. That is why people are asking how to completely disable the electronic sensors for AH.
#16
Just to give a little more insight:
If one or more TPMS sensors fails while driving, the car enters what I call a super fail safe mode and the AH will kick in at very modest speeds while turning (like 40 MPH) and that can really upset the car. This happens even if you already chose to disable AH using the button on the center console. So despite what mode you choose via the console button, if it enters the super fail safe mode, the car will override your decision and AH will kick in. Not sure if this was the issue for the OP.
If you want to make sure AH NEVER kicks in, then you must physically disconnect it. A few different ways to do this. Disconnect Yaw sensor on the steering column (keeps ABS active), or pull 2 fuses in the engine bay (kills ABS too), or disconnect the Yaw sensor behind the radio (not sure). See the following post "Active handling defeated!" for details:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-defeated.html
HTH
If one or more TPMS sensors fails while driving, the car enters what I call a super fail safe mode and the AH will kick in at very modest speeds while turning (like 40 MPH) and that can really upset the car. This happens even if you already chose to disable AH using the button on the center console. So despite what mode you choose via the console button, if it enters the super fail safe mode, the car will override your decision and AH will kick in. Not sure if this was the issue for the OP.
If you want to make sure AH NEVER kicks in, then you must physically disconnect it. A few different ways to do this. Disconnect Yaw sensor on the steering column (keeps ABS active), or pull 2 fuses in the engine bay (kills ABS too), or disconnect the Yaw sensor behind the radio (not sure). See the following post "Active handling defeated!" for details:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-defeated.html
HTH
#17
Melting Slicks
The following 2 users liked this post by Bob Paris:
Corvette_Ed (09-18-2020),
village idiot (09-22-2020)
#18
Race Director
(I know, holy reviving of old thread)
So glad to have seen this..
used to do SCCA club racing, and have grown up with high power to weight RWD and AWD cars. Because of this, I normally drive with AH + TC off via button since (like most of these systems) when you know how to drive, the AH ends up doing the opposite what you are doing to correct it, which ends up pointing you towards the guard rail if you aren't careful. I'm sure the AH (when functioning correctly and not trying to kill you) is a fine system for drivers not accustomed to high power to weight ratio cars or for surprise situations for most drivers.
I do like that now the AH is permanently disabled, but the TC can optionally be turned on via the button, as it seems to be (from my quick test around the block with steering sensor unplugged) *just* helpful enough to prevent some slip, without just KILLING the throttle completely like some cars (my old FRS with a 5.29 Final Drive ratio in it)
Oh and the "it can't go into deadly fail mode and try to kill me" is an added benefit!!!!
So sick of drivers "aids" trying to kill experienced drivers... e.g. the old 2g Mitsubishi Eclipse GST had a crazy one.. it had a governor on the FWD version (but not AWD version) because of tire rating at time of sale, to 135 MPH. Once you had modified the car where it could do well past that, if you actually let it hit the limiter under full throttle, the car, due to limiter, completely fuel cutting, ended up nearly locking up the front wheels and torque steering (unequal length half shafts only on FWD) quickly into oncoming traffic. I personally tested it (prepared for it the unpredictability of it) both it engaging, and how to remove it (thanks Todd Day) for a factory ECU (clip both resistors in the ECU) to make the ECU think it is in an AWD. And I know the requirement is NHTSA, but the implementation could be deadly, vs just progressively pulling timing, until the speed is below the limiter, so it isn't "ALL" of a sudden.
Auto makers really, need to think about what these "aids" and "failsafes" actually do, when driving the vehicle, as many of them are scary, dangerous, and/or downright negligent in some failure modes.. Of course Boeing made the same mistake on a 737 Max, so I guess it isn't just the car industry that has the engineers too far from the actual usage of the vehicle
This should be a sticky on the normal tips/tricks page (with appropriate disclaimers that, like most cars 10 or 20 yrs ago), the driver is responsible for keeping the car in control.
Thanks again,
Christine
So glad to have seen this..
used to do SCCA club racing, and have grown up with high power to weight RWD and AWD cars. Because of this, I normally drive with AH + TC off via button since (like most of these systems) when you know how to drive, the AH ends up doing the opposite what you are doing to correct it, which ends up pointing you towards the guard rail if you aren't careful. I'm sure the AH (when functioning correctly and not trying to kill you) is a fine system for drivers not accustomed to high power to weight ratio cars or for surprise situations for most drivers.
I do like that now the AH is permanently disabled, but the TC can optionally be turned on via the button, as it seems to be (from my quick test around the block with steering sensor unplugged) *just* helpful enough to prevent some slip, without just KILLING the throttle completely like some cars (my old FRS with a 5.29 Final Drive ratio in it)
Oh and the "it can't go into deadly fail mode and try to kill me" is an added benefit!!!!
So sick of drivers "aids" trying to kill experienced drivers... e.g. the old 2g Mitsubishi Eclipse GST had a crazy one.. it had a governor on the FWD version (but not AWD version) because of tire rating at time of sale, to 135 MPH. Once you had modified the car where it could do well past that, if you actually let it hit the limiter under full throttle, the car, due to limiter, completely fuel cutting, ended up nearly locking up the front wheels and torque steering (unequal length half shafts only on FWD) quickly into oncoming traffic. I personally tested it (prepared for it the unpredictability of it) both it engaging, and how to remove it (thanks Todd Day) for a factory ECU (clip both resistors in the ECU) to make the ECU think it is in an AWD. And I know the requirement is NHTSA, but the implementation could be deadly, vs just progressively pulling timing, until the speed is below the limiter, so it isn't "ALL" of a sudden.
Auto makers really, need to think about what these "aids" and "failsafes" actually do, when driving the vehicle, as many of them are scary, dangerous, and/or downright negligent in some failure modes.. Of course Boeing made the same mistake on a 737 Max, so I guess it isn't just the car industry that has the engineers too far from the actual usage of the vehicle
This should be a sticky on the normal tips/tricks page (with appropriate disclaimers that, like most cars 10 or 20 yrs ago), the driver is responsible for keeping the car in control.
Thanks again,
Christine
muscle cars that have no nannies around tight mountain roads like many of us have. Then you might have a point to make. Until then please leave the zombie threads alone. They prefer to rest in peace.
#19
Le Mans Master
You should have left this zombie thread dead. As Bob and VI have accurately pointed out AH and TC have saved more lives than taken, and that's a proven fact if you care to look up the stats. Just because you have SCCA experience doesn't mean everyone does. In fact more people who own Corvettes and other high HP cars do not have track experience than do. Your response is nothing more than arrogant ramblings of someone who felt the need to boast on a forum that doesn't give a **** about what you think, or what you think you can do. Not a single person here cares about what a Mitsubishi Eclipse can or can't do. Let us know when you're capable of sliding 70's
muscle cars that have no nannies around tight mountain roads like many of us have. Then you might have a point to make. Until then please leave the zombie threads alone. They prefer to rest in peace.
muscle cars that have no nannies around tight mountain roads like many of us have. Then you might have a point to make. Until then please leave the zombie threads alone. They prefer to rest in peace.
#20
5th Gear
I have rebuilt several C6's that have had the active handling pull the car hard right and then a crash. All had an error code for the Active handling.
One was a 07 Convert that rolled three times after turning hard right. There has been a lot written about this and yet not a lot of good answers. On my C6, I have bypassed the ABS pump with a simple resistor so the system thinks the pump is there, so no codes and no hard right turns by computer. The connector going to the steering wheel position sensor seems to be the real issue. I guess one alternative is to replace the connector with a hard connection. (solder) No fretting, no bimetal issues etc. ( my professional background is connection reliability testing for Bell Labs.)
Remember the good old days when you had to 'pump' the brakes when it was slippery? I would rather get myself in trouble, rather than have the car suddenly pull to the right and crash it for me. Oh by the way, I do not drive this car in the winter.
There was a thread in the 07 time frame with a TON of people saying, 'YA, I was driving along and my car just turned to the right, into a gas station. All by itself. I guess it needed gas" . Lots of comments like that. I remember someone saying he was such a good driver that even if he was going 80 on a country two lane road and the right ABS came on he could easily overcontrol it. RIGHT. Wrong. By the time he figured out he was sideways it would be a little late.
Here's one that I just finished that went hard right for about 180 degrees and took out the left front:
I have been driving in Minnesota for over 60 years and no accidents. I do wear my seatbelt and learned to drive before ABS and Active handling. MN has some of the worst winter driving and you can survive if you drive within your limits. I helped out a friend and drove his semi for years part time. Try driving an 18 wheeler on pure ice. Been there as well.
Just my .02 cents worth.
One was a 07 Convert that rolled three times after turning hard right. There has been a lot written about this and yet not a lot of good answers. On my C6, I have bypassed the ABS pump with a simple resistor so the system thinks the pump is there, so no codes and no hard right turns by computer. The connector going to the steering wheel position sensor seems to be the real issue. I guess one alternative is to replace the connector with a hard connection. (solder) No fretting, no bimetal issues etc. ( my professional background is connection reliability testing for Bell Labs.)
Remember the good old days when you had to 'pump' the brakes when it was slippery? I would rather get myself in trouble, rather than have the car suddenly pull to the right and crash it for me. Oh by the way, I do not drive this car in the winter.
There was a thread in the 07 time frame with a TON of people saying, 'YA, I was driving along and my car just turned to the right, into a gas station. All by itself. I guess it needed gas" . Lots of comments like that. I remember someone saying he was such a good driver that even if he was going 80 on a country two lane road and the right ABS came on he could easily overcontrol it. RIGHT. Wrong. By the time he figured out he was sideways it would be a little late.
Here's one that I just finished that went hard right for about 180 degrees and took out the left front:
I have been driving in Minnesota for over 60 years and no accidents. I do wear my seatbelt and learned to drive before ABS and Active handling. MN has some of the worst winter driving and you can survive if you drive within your limits. I helped out a friend and drove his semi for years part time. Try driving an 18 wheeler on pure ice. Been there as well.
Just my .02 cents worth.
I had my 05 C6 send me into a spin (which felt like it came out of no where) on a moderate turn doing maybe 50 mph. Makes me wonder what really caused it.