2007 Manual Dead Battery
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
2007 Manual Dead Battery
Let me preface by saying that I read through the last 10 pages using the search function. I have a 2007 manual, base corvette and it is starting to get cold in my city. Yesterday, I was stranded in a parking lot due to a dead battery. I did have my seat warmer plugged in (it is always plugged in though), so I attributed it to that. It seemed about time to replace my battery so I replaced it with a new one from autozone. I drove two time later that day and it worked fine. I have made sure not plug anything into the 12v sockets since getting the new battery. All lights and devices appeared to be off after parking, in first gear, in my garage. This morning, the car only had enough juice to open the driver's side door. After doing so, it completely died. I tried jump starting the car to no avail. The car's dash would light up, but the engine would not turn. After 5 minutes of being hooked up, the engine would turn once with a clicking sound and then go into accessory mode. The battery connections seem fine, so I think there might be a short somewhere or a phantom draw. Goodyear, who installed the battery, told me they load test new batteries after they install them. I believe that dead battery syndrome is only for 2005 corvettes, but I may be wrong. If it matters, I have an aftermarket headunit with an noncharging android plug that I have had for well over a year. Does anyone have advice on where to proceed from here? I would appreciate any input from you guys before I call a tow truck.
#2
Pro
It's possible that the original battery went dead because your charging system isn't working. I'd get the car running and check the output of your alternator. With all accessories and the heater fan off, the car at idle, it should be over 14 volts. If it reads low, (like the same as the battery voltage) you may have found the problem.
If it reads normally, you may have some sort of parasitic draw that is killing your battery. If you have a multimeter that will measure up to 10A of current, you can use it to find the problem, by pulling fuses one at a time, and putting the meter across the circuit. With the car completely off, nothing should draw more than a couple of hundred milli-amps. If you find a circuit with abnormally high current draw, you at least know where to look for the problem. Sometimes things like sunvisor lamps and such can be on without you realizing it.
Good luck with the troubleshooting, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
Garry
If it reads normally, you may have some sort of parasitic draw that is killing your battery. If you have a multimeter that will measure up to 10A of current, you can use it to find the problem, by pulling fuses one at a time, and putting the meter across the circuit. With the car completely off, nothing should draw more than a couple of hundred milli-amps. If you find a circuit with abnormally high current draw, you at least know where to look for the problem. Sometimes things like sunvisor lamps and such can be on without you realizing it.
Good luck with the troubleshooting, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
Garry
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks. I left the car jumped for 10 minutes last night before it finally started. The low voltage on the dash was correlated with revs so the battery was charging and initially really drained. Using a multimeter, there appeared to be no draw when the car was off. I drove the car for 100 miles last night , longer than my 4.4 daily commute, and the car started just fine this morning. I hope that the new battery was given to me uncharged and that my 4.4 mile commute was not enough to fully charge the battery. I will leave the car parked for 2 days, periodically checking for any parastic draw or any unusual electrical issues.