Install of Harmonic Balancer question
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Install of Harmonic Balancer question
So I need to replace my balancer. Local shop quoted me $1200 in labor. $1200! Looks like I'll need to do this myself. I have my crank pinned so I'll need to drill the new balancer. My question is, how in the world do I line the balancer up with that pin?
#2
Install balancer and repin 180° from the previous spot.
This is assuming the pin is parallel to the crank, not the ATI pin kit that goes through the crankshaft. You are supercharged? If not I wouldnt bother with a pin at all.
This is assuming the pin is parallel to the crank, not the ATI pin kit that goes through the crankshaft. You are supercharged? If not I wouldnt bother with a pin at all.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Yeah, I'm supercharged. Repin is a good idea. Thanks!
#4
I switched from a regular ATI to IW 10% OD damper and they recommend repinning like described. Did it myself. Its a bit of a pain. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.
#5
Le Mans Master
Corvette Mikes in Anaheim charged me just under $800 in labor to install my ATI. 91 and Tustin about 20 minutes from Corona. I do my own work but this was more than I wanted to do without a lift. Good shop. Total was about $1200 including the ATI
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Corvette Mikes was the shop that quoted me $1200 in labor. I'm sure they are a good shop but I'll never use them.
#7
Le Mans Master
That sucks. They just did mine in May. 8 hours at $98/hour. Wonder why the change?
#8
To pull the HB and install the new one, sub frame has to be lowered, then the steering rack has to be pulled. Also, some of the cars have a cooler in the way that needs to be removed a well.
Once you have it buttoned up, then the front end needs to be realigned.
As for the $1200 quote, it out of the repair manual, with some shops being able to do it and the alignment for cheaper.
As for pinning the crank, watch your drilling depth, since you do not want to blow through the back of the HB with the drill bit. Only drill the needed channel depth enough for the pin to fit, and no more (or will be breaking out the the RTV to seal of the back of the channel that you over drilled.
Once you have it buttoned up, then the front end needs to be realigned.
As for the $1200 quote, it out of the repair manual, with some shops being able to do it and the alignment for cheaper.
As for pinning the crank, watch your drilling depth, since you do not want to blow through the back of the HB with the drill bit. Only drill the needed channel depth enough for the pin to fit, and no more (or will be breaking out the the RTV to seal of the back of the channel that you over drilled.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
The steering rack doesn't seem like it is that difficult. What about the puller for the HB? I see some recommend the chrysler puller but is that the best way to go?
Thanks for the replies.
Thanks for the replies.
To pull the HB and install the new one, sub frame has to be lowered, then the steering rack has to be pulled. Also, some of the cars have a cooler in the way that needs to be removed a well.
Once you have it buttoned up, then the front end needs to be realigned.
As for the $1200 quote, it out of the repair manual, with some shops being able to do it and the alignment for cheaper.
As for pinning the crank, watch your drilling depth, since you do not want to blow through the back of the HB with the drill bit. Only drill the needed channel depth enough for the pin to fit, and no more (or will be breaking out the the RTV to seal of the back of the channel that you over drilled.
Once you have it buttoned up, then the front end needs to be realigned.
As for the $1200 quote, it out of the repair manual, with some shops being able to do it and the alignment for cheaper.
As for pinning the crank, watch your drilling depth, since you do not want to blow through the back of the HB with the drill bit. Only drill the needed channel depth enough for the pin to fit, and no more (or will be breaking out the the RTV to seal of the back of the channel that you over drilled.
#10
So any three jaw puller will work to pull the OEM HB off the crank.
It's putting the new ATI HB on that you need the pick up a HB installer tool (read don't try to use the HB bolt, or you are going to strip the crank threads as you try to press on the HB to the crank). Also, when you have the HB out, replace the HB cover seal. The seal mates to the HB in play, and when you install a new HB, want a new seal so it can mate in correctly.
If you are just planning pinning the OEM HB, then it does need to be removed to be pinned (Huge mistake, since you will tearing everything back down to replace the OEM shortly anyways).
Tool smaller threads get threaded all the way into the crank first so they have a full embed so you don't strip out the crank threads, then you use the larger threads with bearing shim and bolt to press the HB onto the crank.
Last edited by Dano523; 02-17-2015 at 04:31 PM.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
I think I've read in the past that A&A says the supercharger needs to be removed (mines the v3), but other than loosening the belt and removing the 8" tube to the intercooler, does the supercharger and bracket need to be removed?
#12
OK...I'm missing the boat big time here. I'm sure theres an explanation, but If the balancer pin is not lined up....then doesn't that mean that it slipped and didn't do its function anyway ?
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
You misunderstood. I currently have the stock balancer, pinned but now I've got the wobble. Belt moves side to side and constantly chirps.
I'm replacing the balancer with an ATI. I can either repin with an new hole or I can use the existing pin and try to line up the new hole on the ATI. Repinning is the easiest method and I'll be going that route.
I'm replacing the balancer with an ATI. I can either repin with an new hole or I can use the existing pin and try to line up the new hole on the ATI. Repinning is the easiest method and I'll be going that route.