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Having trouble finding my boiling over problem. Coming out of the over flow tank. Towed it to service and they had it for two days. Replaced thermo stat and they said everything is ok. Took it for a drive next weekend and over heated again coming out of the over flow tank. Towed it back to service. They had it for three days and they still say it's fine. They tested the fan and pressure. Can't find a thing that's wrong. They let it idle for awhile and took it for drive but can't replicate the problem.
(1) drained and flushed the cooling system and you now have a air pocket. If this is the case, you need to expel that air pocket. I can point you in the right direction or you can look at the various threads here regarding this issue.
(2) If that is not the case, I would check the fan switch connector --- it is located on the passenger side of the fan about midway. it is a three prong connector that the middle prong tends to melt and short out -- disconnect it and inspect.
these are two of the most common culprits --- if neither of these are you problem let us know and we will go farther. I suspect (1) is your issue.
Remove air intake and radiator cover. Inspect the area between condenser and radiator for blockage. I have found a whole plastic ice bag complete with draw string in there. I made a wand to flush them out, do it every spring.
Gl
This may sound odd, maybe even stupid, but, if not already done, check the radiator cap. When I owned my Callaway, I started having an overheating problem. Took it to 3 different shops & they couldn't find the problem. I finally talked to a good a friend & he suggested that the cap might not be sealing correctly & to replace it. Replaced it and never had a problem again ...
Remove air intake and radiator cover. Inspect the area between condenser and radiator for blockage. I have found a whole plastic ice bag complete with draw string in there. I made a wand to flush them out, do it every spring.
Gl
Now that's a new one on me! Never heard of that before!
Mine boiled once because the temp sensor was faulty. Normally when they fail it sends completely false data like 0 or 999 but mine was reading 20 degrees celcius too low. This cause the cooling fan to not turn on.
Maybe check that sensor?
Also, a mechanic suggested a possible leak in the head gasket. This could cause piston compression to increase pressure in the cooling system causing the overflow to puke out coolant. It wouldn't boil, but it would look the same.
Hope it's the first! Easier to change compared to a head gasket.
Now that's a new one on me! Never heard of that before!
Our bottom feeders are like Hoovers....suck up everything on the road. I made a wand to flush evert hung out.
90 degree shutoff adapter,garden hose female to 1/2 in copper compression fitting and a 2ft piece of 1/2 soft copper bent at 90 degrees. Crimped the bent end of copper so water sprays out with some force.
Remove air intake and radiator cover. Inspect the area between condenser and radiator for blockage. I have found a whole plastic ice bag complete with draw string in there. I made a wand to flush them out, do it every spring.
Gl
This would be my first guess. Mine was clogged up with cut grass and leaves from driving onto too many show and cruise in fields and I never won any plastic trophies. It's amazing what these things suck up into that space !
My other suggestion is to remove the radiator cap, start the engine and turn the heater all the way up with the fan on high and see if there's air in the lines somewhere. You may see bubbles coming from the radiator if that's the problem.
When it does overheat, is the fan running and the temp gage show high, that suggest the electronics are doing their job. If not, then as other post suggested, look at the fan circuits. Otherwise as others have posted, look for obstructions to the fan and/of air in system.
Best of luck.
All good potential ideas above. You may want to not only post up your location (staying anonymously-addressed is one thing but...), and you may also want to make a list of the potential causes outlined above and ask the Service Advisor each one for being inspected and done. After all, you're paying/paid for it.
Remove air intake and radiator cover. Inspect the area between condenser and radiator for blockage. I have found a whole plastic ice bag complete with draw string in there. I made a wand to flush them out, do it every spring.
Gl
Thx for the tip WB. Haven't had a problem yet but will check that out today.
Something that hasn't been mentioned is the water pump. I have witnessed water pumps that simply no longer pump enough to do the job. This would come with rusty coolant most likely. Please let us know what you find.
I totally forgot about how our corvettes act as street cleaners and suck everything up from the road. I bought from harbor freight a 18 inch air wand for about 3 dollars that is perfect for removing debris between the radiator and condenser.
I totally forgot about how our corvettes act as street cleaners and suck everything up from the road. I bought from harbor freight a 18 inch air wand for about 3 dollars that is perfect for removing debris between the radiator and condenser.
Our bottom feeders are like Hoovers....suck up everything on the road. I made a wand to flush evert hung out.
90 degree shutoff adapter,garden hose female to 1/2 in copper compression fitting and a 2ft piece of 1/2 soft copper bent at 90 degrees. Crimped the bent end of copper so water sprays out with some force.
Remove air intake and radiator cover. Inspect the area between condenser and radiator for blockage. I have found a whole plastic ice bag complete with draw string in there. I made a wand to flush them out, do it every spring.
Gl
Thanks Wayback. I was not having any problems but after reading your post, I took a look and I think I may have used my car as a street sweeper at some point. What a mess. All clean now.
Check the line from the top of the overflow tank to the far side of the radiator. There is an innocent looking T connector that goes to the head. Do not try to take the hose off the T because it will break easily. The T has a very small vent hole in it going to the head that can easily plug up with rust and cause overheating. Replacement cost for the hose assembly $90 but the result was worth it.
Check the line from the top of the overflow tank to the far side of the radiator. There is an innocent looking T connector that goes to the head. Do not try to take the hose off the T because it will break easily. The T has a very small vent hole in it going to the head that can easily plug up with rust and cause overheating. Replacement cost for the hose assembly $90 but the result was worth it.
if it is the T connection - you can simply replace the T with a generic one from pepboys for about $2 dollars. I suspect it is not your problem as you say the overflow is boiling.
09-24-2015, 12:44 AM
Boiling over.
