SLEEPERBUSA

2012 Grand Sport. I put M/T drag radials on it, so when I let the pressure down for traction it throws a code and won't all me to turn off the Stabilatrack(If that's what it's called).
I was told to put the air pressure sensors in a PVC pipe at correct air pressure to fool the computer into thinking that the tire pressure is sufficient.
Some times it work great and sometimes the computer shows XX on the dash, sometimes 00 pressure.
I disconnect the battery to reset the code and this time it reads the front sensors but doesn't seem to wanna read the rears.
Anyone have a good fix or suggestion to combat this?

The sensors are new from Discount Tire Co. and turned on by the Chevy dealership.

Thanks in advance.

HOXXOH

New sensors off the shelf have to rotate at enough speed to initially activate. IIRC is something like 15 MPH for 30 seconds or some such numbers.
You might try getting someone at a tire shop to put your PVC canister inside a tire and put it on the balancer for a minute. Then you can get them relearned to the car in the correct location.
I don't remember seeing sensors throwing a code that limits ability to turn off the traction control. However, tire sizes that don't closely match the same front to rear ratio as stock have thrown codes and limited speeds. So what size tires did you buy?

SLEEPERBUSA

I'm sorry, They are new, but were in the tires for the first 100 miles or so, so I'm not sure if that applies, however my friend has a tire machine, so I'll try something with that.
The first traction control will turn off, but the second won't. I think that's the one called Stabilitrack???
I bought the 305s and they worked with the sensors in until I lowered the pressure, then they worked inside of the PVC except I drilled the hole slightly large and they leaked,
Now the second set of PVC is what I'm having issue with. Now they don't seem to be showing up to the party.

sevinn

You either need to do the PVC trick or just remove the sensors all together. The car won't go into limp mode if it can't find sensors like it will if the tires are just low. The only thing that doesn't work when you don't have sensors is traction control (after you pass the point where the car realizes they aren't there at least), which you'd probably turn off with the DRs anyway.

BIGMAC

I am about to take my heavily modded '12 GS (750 RWHP) to the track for initial testing and would like to have definitive information on the do's and don'ts of TPMS running drag radials at 16-18 PSI. I must admit I am frustrated by the conflicting information found on various sources. My car will be trailered to and from the track so will not see any mileage other than strip runs.

Below are some of the "nuggets" I have received...I am sure this list is not complete but this is all I can remember.

1. Since your car will be trailered and strip only you can run 16PSI with no issues since it takes XX miles for the bad stuff (can't turn off AH/TC, limp mode and speed limited to 55 MPH etc.) to happen and system will reset after each ignition cycle. (Others say this is BS and the bad stuff triggered by low tire pressure will happen immediately and will not reset until pressure is restored to at least 24 PSI).

2. Less bad stuff is triggered with no sensors at all than to have sensors and low pressure.

3. Having front sensors and not rear is worse than having none at all.

4. Having sensors installed but not synced (done to provide the option to use them if needed) is worse than having none at all.

5. You are screwed and other than doing the canister thing (or installing the LG TPMS Eliminator) all hell will break loose if you try to run less than 24 PSI in the DR's.

Comments from the Forum tech gurus will be appreciated.

BIGMAC

HOXXOH

Best choice is to remove the sensors and rebalance the wheels. Without checking, I've driven at least 7,000 miles with no sensors and speeds well into triple digits. I don't use sensors in my DR's and the only time the DIC posts a message is on the rare occasion I drive to/from the track with them on. It takes about 25 minutes for that to happen and doesn't affect performance. I've run with sensors in the front on my street tires and with no sensors in my race skinnies. Without sensors, there is no possible concern about low pressures.

RicardoFors68

I also don't use sensors, mine is a dd, no issues, i even get a message stating that the car has been limited to 55mph until the issue is corrected but still drives fine. After a while the warning will go away on their own.