ssbowtie1

I'm planning on flushing my brake fluid with some Motul RBF 600 DOT4 fluid. Does anyone know what size clear tubing is needed to fit over the caliper bleeders? Also, when filling new brake fluid, do you place the cap back on the master cylinder before having an assistant pump the brakes or can you leave the cap off?

c1j1c2

I can't speak to the tubing size, but always put the cap back on, and open slowly when re-filling the master cylinder. Also put a rag underneath the master cylinder. That way there is no chance of overflowing into the engine compartment, or fluid splashing out onto the paint.

eshuber

When pumping the brake pedal it is easy to damage the master cylinder plunger seal. It happens by pushing the pedal to the floorboard which results in the seals going into the unused portion of the master. Since the area is unused it may have slight corrosion which damages the plunger seal.
Solution is to limit the pedal travel with something like a piece of 2x4.
Hope this helps.

biker1059

I know this probably isn't the right way but I did like the Ranger method on mine. Worked good for me. Did it about 3 times over 3 or 4 months

MikeERWNC

Please go buy a Mity-Vac vacuum pump from Harbor Freight. They are like 45.00.
It will save you A LOT of unnecessary labor.

Suck out the fluid in the Reservoir.
Fill the Res.
Pull new fluid to the back right corner.
Fill Res.
Pull new fluid to the back left corner.
Fill Res.
Pull new fluid to the front right corner.
Fill Res.
Pull new fluid to the front left corner.
Fill Res.

Don't have somebody pumping the brake.
This is a one man operation with no possibility of air leaking back into the system.

ssbowtie1

Is this his you've done it in the past? Does the mighty vac pull enough vacuum to eliminate the need to have someone pump the brakes? This would be much better than the 2 people method!

HBsurfer

I used this method just last weekend. Easy one man job. Took longer to get the car in the air and take the wheels off than it did to flush the fluid.

Just my opinion but I do not think the ranger method works for brake fluid. The fluid at the end of those long brake lines is not going back and forth thru the master cylinder. Again, just my opinion. Use ranger for the clutch but buy a pressure bleeder and do the brakes the easy way. Let it flow until it comes out clear and move on to the next wheel.

BadAV

I've been using this method for years. It's easy-peasey and you get completely new brake fluid in the whole system when you do it correctly. I use Valvoline full synthetic fluid because you can get it cheap at Wallyworld. I do a flush every 3 years on all my cars. It may be a little bit overkill but it's a lot cheaper than paying to replace anti-lock brake components that fail because you aren't doing it often enough.

C6C3Vettes

BEST $40 I've spent in a long time! Griots one person brake bleeder.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...e=&from=Search

clearwaterms

also check out the motive power bleeder. I purchased one that I have the different adapters for. you put 1/2 quarter into the container and then you pump it up and it pushes fresh fluid into the resevoir, you go to each wheel and open the nipple until you see fresh fluid.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

you can usually find them on amazon as well as a few forum vendors probably sell it.

Rocketmanwpb

If you want to do a thorough flush you will need to activate the ABS block to flush the fluid from that component also. Needs to be hooked up to a device that sends a signal to open the valves.

96GS#007

I use the Motive for bleeds before track days. I used the MityVac for years prior to that.

The bleed order is RR, LF, LR, RF

3/16" tubing.

dbischoff

What PSI do you use to pressure bleed the Corvette?

dbischoff

You would still change most of the fluid over if you do a simple bleed. So, unless you have let some air into the top end of the system, ie changed the master cylinder, do you think it is significantly important to put the ABS through a "rodeo"? (I've heard it called that on another car, where the dealer has diagnostic software that can cycle the ABS components during the bleeding process. Not all ABS systems need to be done this way).

96GS#007

10-15 gives a nice flow rate when bleeding and doesn't have you running around to the master cylinder to continually pump the thing up.

I've read the "sky is falling" comments stating that the car will self-combust if you go over 10psi. Bunch of BS in my opinion and experience.

People will have you believe that every minor task on these cars is rocket science and requires a Doctoral Thesis on proper bolt turning. It's just a car. Use common sense and care.

dbischoff

Thanks. 10 - 15 is typical for many cars. Contrary to those 10psi guys, I used the Motive on my Benz, and that car actually specifies 29 PSI to pressure-bleed. And I proved it to myself that any less pressure is just not enough to get more than a tiny trickle of flow, and can not push air bubbles through the ABS and out. (The Motive gauge only goes to 30, so it is at its limit).

I suppose too much pressure could possibly blow the reservoir off its mounts and spew brake fluid everywhere, but inside the system 15psi, even 30, is nothing compared to the pressure applied by stepping on the brake pedal.

HBsurfer

I use a Motive and pump it up to 14 pounds. Nice flow but not so fast that you are rushed at any point.