I've had my new to me 2006 Convertible MZ6 with 16k miles for about 3 weeks now and have tried to come up to speed as quickly as possible on the quirks. I had a 2001 BMW Z3 prior to this and I knew the car inside and out, so I'm still feeling a bit blind.......however this forum has been a huge help! Here are the first 4 things that I took care of:


CAGS eliminator. I got the one from Compliance Parts. I liked the fact that their product took more thought and innovation to make it more convenient to install, and still was only $17 shipped, compared to the myriad other transmission plugs out there. Took 2 minutes to pop the hood, take out the stock CAGS fuse and insert the new one. Works like a charm! Cost: $17 Difficulty (1-10) 1


Outside door opener pad cleaning. My doors weren't too bad but it looked so easy I thought it would be a fun quick project after work. Not surprisingly both doors electronics were pretty tarnished but cleaned up well with some mild sandpaper and cleaner. Super easy and now the doors open with ease every time. Lots of links on the forum about how to do it. Took me about an hour to do both sides, taking my time and cleaning under the pad holders. Cost: $0 Difficulty (1-10) 2, only because there are some small screws and electronics you should be careful with.


Trunk not opening or latching properly. I thought I needed the assist spring that's been talked about here, but I've seen a couple of posts were people say it's completely unnecessary- they are right! When popping my trunk it didn't always open enough to get my fingers under to pull it up, so I'd have to hit the button while jamming my fingers under, etc. The first thing I did was sprayed some white lithium grease (WLG) on the lock mechanism (on the car side) and worked it in. This immediately solved my opening issue but the trunk lid still wouldn't close without pushing it down after dropping it. When inspecting the latch (trunk lid side) I could see that the WLG was all accumulating on the rear corner of the latch, so I loosened up the 2 torx bolts (T30 I believe) and moved the latch a quarter inch toward the front of the car. After tightening the bolts down, Voila! The trunk now closes when I drop it from a height of about 6 inches and opens without me grabbing it every time. No need for additional springs. Cost: $0 if you have WLG Difficulty (1-10) 2 just because you need a Torx set.


Tonneau cover hitting rear glass. I saw a great video of a gentleman with a VY 427 (sorry, don't know the name to tag him) showing how to fix this. Google Corvette Tonneau Cover rear glass and it should come up. It was a bit tricky but I got it done. As shown in the video you have to either have someone hold the top in the semi open position or use something. Since there was NO WAY my wife was gonna stand in the driveway holding the top while I fiddled around I used a coat hanger like in the video. The tricky part is getting the straps bolted back in once they are much tighter. I found that it was easier to move both seats all the way forward, sit on the door jamb and look straight up for a clear path to the bolt. If you stand at the outside and try to look down under the top your back is going to ache and it's a tough angle to get to the bolt. The first time I adjusted the straps I only moved them about .5 inches tighter and it did nothing. I had to go back and move them about .75- 1 inch tighter and it seemed to do the trick. Out of 5 test open and closes, it only nicked the rear window once and just barely. Before it would clunk hard each time. Cost: $0 Difficulty (1-10) 5


Sorry for the long post but thought I'd try to contribute a bit after I've learned so much! I don't have pictures but everything I did has already been very well documented online and on this forum.

 

Mikey, congratulation on the C6. Sounds like you are getting used to the car quite quickly. I bought an '06 M6 Vert new, and it was a great car. I grew quite tired of changing gears (I know, I'm old), and have an '07 auto now. I have read that the MGW (?), and other aftermarket shifters make the shifting much better. These cars have proven really reliable. Enjoy, and don't forget to

 

Congrats on the new car!

 

Congratulations on completing your projects. It is satisfying when you do it yourself

Each fall, when I put my car away, I make a spreadsheet with all the projects or work I want to do or check over the winter.
Sometimes it just simple stuff, but other times it's more complex and difficult.
Here is a small sample of what I had on the list this winter. Mostly simple stuff this year.

 

Love the list! Why the change to the G8 visors?

 

Because of the weak vanity mirror covers, I have replaced 2 passenger sunvisors since the original, and one of the hinges was already broken on the 3rd last fall. The G8 visor vanity mirror assembly is a bit wider, but has sturdy mirror covers, much like other newer GM vehicles.

I'm not sure why the C6 cover hinges were made of a thin plastic to begin with. When they get cold, they are easily broken...at least by my passengers who shall remain nameless .

Here is the C6 visor with the G8 assembly installed, and with LED's.

 

Nice LV2TOUR. When you mention "adjust window fit" are you referring to re-indexing or is there something more? All of us Vette novices appreciate the tips.

 

I had replaced my driver window regulator a few years ago, and since then, I had been getting a bit of wind noise towards the back of the window when driving at highway speeds.
I adjusted the window in a bit so it would fit tighter against the weather stripping. I checked the passenger side as well, just to be sure it was in the same position.

 

Mikey, not sure if you know, but Paul likes to look at himself a lot. Hence the reason for stronger covers.....

 

That was supposed to be our secret, hence why I didn't put names on the people that broke the cover hinges.

 

Is this the video?

 

Right on!

Thanks,Matt

 

So you said "The first time I adjusted the straps I only moved them about .5 inches tighter and it did nothing. I had to go back and move them about .75- 1 inch tighter and it seemed to do the trick" I interpret this as 1.25" to 1.5" from the original hole. Correct? I plan to tackle this tomorrow. Thanks a bunch!

 

good job

 

I checked to see if the light worked when you opened the mirror door when I purchased my Vette, but haven't touched it since. You guys must be real lookers.

 

Indeed it is! Very helpful.

No, the TSB says to go .25 (one quarter) inch from the original hole (my strap was doubled over at the end so I'm talking about the lower hole on the strap). I needed to go almost 1 full inch to get the window to clear the tonneau. Then again mine is much older than the one in the vid so maybe they're just that much more stretched out. Good luck!

 

So I tried the tonneau cover repair this morning. First I want to reinforce that putting the small bolt back in is much easier from behind the seats. So move the seats all the way forward and then squeeze into the back. The location of the hole and the angle of the hole is much easier to see this way.

Second the fix did not work for me. I created a new hole 1" farther back then the original hole. The results were no different than before the fix. I have an '07 and the elastic straps had very little elasticity remaining.

Looking ahead I am either going to create another hole even further or piggyback a new piece of elastic (from a store that carries sewing supplies) on top of the old.

My new JL Audio speakers are due to arrive today so I'll be focusing my attention on speaker replacement for the remainder of today. I'll make a decision and get back to this tonneau cover issue later this weekend.

 

I have some wind noise coming from the back of the passenger window. Straight weatherstripping running in front of the halo. How did you adjust the window?

I can push on the weatherstripping from inside and make it seal. Only hear it when I am in passenger seat (very rarely) so I forget about it.

Thanks.

 

The 2 bottom bolts that hold the regulator in place on the door skin can be adjusted in or out, to pull the glass inward or outward to seal the glass against the weather stripping seal. The glass can also be adjusted up/down by raising or lowering the glass that sit on the regulator brackets.
Once the glass is adjusted against the weather stripping, put a $$ bill between the glass and the weather stripping. There should be a little resistance to pull the bill out if it is set properly. That was my issue, as I needed to bring the glass in tighter to the weather stripping to stop the wind noise by adjusting the bottom 2 bolts.

Also, the rear portion of the targa top can also be adjusted up/down a bit on each side to make the targa top sit straight from east-west to sit even across the weather seal.

The Rear targa top J-hook can also be adjusted to haul down the targa top tighter in the back portion.
If you think it's the rear halo seal leaking, try adjusting the J-Hook to pull down the top a bit tighter on the halo weather seal.

 

Thanks.
It is the long seal at the back of the window. Gonna have to give it a try.