C6 cranks but won't start
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
C6 cranks but won't start
I pushed the start button and released the button before the engine started. I did not notice if the malfunction indicator light came on then but its on now, Anyway the engine will crank but will not fire or start. The engine will continue to crank after pushing the start button without having to hold the start button. Eventually the start system will stop cranking by itself. I have fuel in the tank. i took off the gas gap and reinstalled. i removed the positive cable on the battery and reinstalled a few minutes later. i checked the fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay both were ok. Battery has plenty of charge to crank the engine. The Mil light is always on but it does not say check, it just lights the icon. Now what. 2005 C6 model
#3
Melting Slicks
I had the same issue a few years ago. Everything checked out ok like yours but the end result was the terminals the fuel pump relay plugs into were bad. Ended up being a factory defect according to the dealer. Hope this helps.
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John K MD (04-16-2016)
#4
Melting Slicks
Could be a crankshaft position sensor, and may have a trouble code now that you tried starting the engine. Scan tool could help pull the code up.
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John K MD (04-16-2016)
#5
Race Director
Agree with the suggestions above.
Also, it is normal for the engine to continue to crank after releasing the start button. When you start the car you only need to push and immediately release the button and it will crank until start or time-out if it's not getting fuel.
Also, it is normal for the engine to continue to crank after releasing the start button. When you start the car you only need to push and immediately release the button and it will crank until start or time-out if it's not getting fuel.
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John K MD (04-16-2016)
#7
Cam shaft sensor is front, right hand side just above the HB tucked way back,
The crank shaft senor is located at the back of the motor on the passenger side behind the starter on the block.
Of the two, would almost say that its the cam shaft sensor (which you can reach down and check to make sure it connected), but if you pull the codes, will tell you the problem from the start.
Hence engine needs fuel, air and spark to run. Since you have fuel at the rail, easy to weed out, air is kind of a give, so leaves spark, and if the cam and crank sensors are not getting a signal to the ECM, your not going to get spark.
And why I say cam shaft connector, it's sensor socket retainer tab loves to get hot and break off, allowing the connector to walk out of the sensor socket it plug into.
The following 4 users liked this post by Dano523:
#8
Even odds that either you cam shaft sensor connector is coming loose, or your crank sensor connector instead.
Cam shaft sensor is front, right hand side just above the HB tucked way back,
The crank shaft senor is located at the back of the motor on the passenger side behind the starter on the block.
Of the two, would almost say that its the cam shaft sensor (which you can reach down and check to make sure it connected), but if you pull the codes, will tell you the problem from the start.
Hence engine needs fuel, air and spark to run. Since you have fuel at the rail, easy to weed out, air is kind of a give, so leaves spark, and if the cam and crank sensors are not getting a signal to the ECM, your not going to get spark.
And why I say cam shaft connector, it's sensor socket retainer tab loves to get hot and break off, allowing the connector to walk out of the sensor socket it plug into.
Cam shaft sensor is front, right hand side just above the HB tucked way back,
The crank shaft senor is located at the back of the motor on the passenger side behind the starter on the block.
Of the two, would almost say that its the cam shaft sensor (which you can reach down and check to make sure it connected), but if you pull the codes, will tell you the problem from the start.
Hence engine needs fuel, air and spark to run. Since you have fuel at the rail, easy to weed out, air is kind of a give, so leaves spark, and if the cam and crank sensors are not getting a signal to the ECM, your not going to get spark.
And why I say cam shaft connector, it's sensor socket retainer tab loves to get hot and break off, allowing the connector to walk out of the sensor socket it plug into.
Thanks for the great info and pictures i will check this out. Any thoughts on the self diagnostics. as in turn the car on but do not start, press the DIC option button and hold, then push the DIC fuel button 4 times within 10 seconds, release the DIC option button. Then push the DIC option button again and release, then push the DIC gauge button and release and then read the codes. I cant make this work for me. Thanks
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John K MD (04-17-2016)
#9
Need a OBDII Can scanner to pull the codes.
The cheap way if you have a smart phone to end up with a scan tool.
If android, blue tooth elm 327 from amazon for around $10 with the toqure app.
If Iphone, WiFi elm327 and Dash commander instead.
If you could drive the car, then any auto parts store will pull the codes for free with their scanner.
The cheap way if you have a smart phone to end up with a scan tool.
If android, blue tooth elm 327 from amazon for around $10 with the toqure app.
If Iphone, WiFi elm327 and Dash commander instead.
If you could drive the car, then any auto parts store will pull the codes for free with their scanner.
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John K MD (04-17-2016)
#11
Advanced
Check your fuel pressure with a gauge. it should be around 58-60 psi while the motor is being cranked. You cannot determin that the pump is good by just pushing the valve and having fuel shoot out. GOOD LUCK.
Also I agree with other members, get your hands on a scanner and pull codes.
Also I agree with other members, get your hands on a scanner and pull codes.
Last edited by Bert,M.; 04-16-2016 at 09:42 PM.
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John K MD (04-17-2016)
#12
Melting Slicks
Thanks for the great info and pictures i will check this out. Any thoughts on the self diagnostics. as in turn the car on but do not start, press the DIC option button and hold, then push the DIC fuel button 4 times within 10 seconds, release the DIC option button. Then push the DIC option button again and release, then push the DIC gauge button and release and then read the codes. I cant make this work for me. Thanks
FYI...
There had also been issues with the camshaft sprocket becoming loose and walking up to the cam sensor and resulting in it getting chewed up.
This usually is accompanied by a lot of noise though in the area.
If you have a scanner that can read live data, you should get a rpm while cranking the engine. No rpm, that should narrow things down to the sensors. GL
Last edited by extrapilot; 04-17-2016 at 11:14 AM.
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John K MD (04-17-2016)
#14
Burning Brakes
And this is why I enjoy this forum. Learning more about my car daily.
#15
Le Mans Master
READ THE CODES!!! That is what they are there for. There are thousands of codes that can be set. They identify issues sometimes right down to which wire is grounded or a wire is open or a wire is connected to power all the time. 3 different codes for one wire. And possibly another couple of codes for the sensor attached to the wire. They get VERY specific as to what the issue is and what the fix is.
Without reading the codes you could have a hundred different possible issues. The sensors mentioned above is just two possibilities. You can spend a lot of money replacing parts or you can READ THE CODES FOR FREE AT A PARTS STORE!
Everyone needs to spend the $25 and get a code reader. The cheapest one will work on any modern car.
Edit: Sorry, made a mistake. There are only 516 possible codes for the engine and transmission.
Without reading the codes you could have a hundred different possible issues. The sensors mentioned above is just two possibilities. You can spend a lot of money replacing parts or you can READ THE CODES FOR FREE AT A PARTS STORE!
Everyone needs to spend the $25 and get a code reader. The cheapest one will work on any modern car.
Edit: Sorry, made a mistake. There are only 516 possible codes for the engine and transmission.
Last edited by FortMorganAl; 04-18-2016 at 09:37 AM.
#16
Racer
If you have an active OnStar account, you can push the blue button and ask them to run a diagnostic on your car. I have gotten codes for the CEL, TPM, TC/AH & air bag on my C6s and my wife's Cruze that way.
Enjoy,
akriggm
Enjoy,
akriggm
#18
Drifting
I am going to ask a question and you can flame me later.
Have you checked all the connections on your battery and your starter? A loose connection will not have the necessary voltage to start the car. Everything else will work no start.
Does your battery have 12.5 volts? Anything less the car will crank but will not start.
Do you here the fuel pump right behind the drivers seat start?
Did you try and Jump the car?
Just some basic questions for a CORVETTE that won't start. There not like other cars there voltage specific. If the computer doesn't get the correct voltage it will not allow the car to start.
Have you checked all the connections on your battery and your starter? A loose connection will not have the necessary voltage to start the car. Everything else will work no start.
Does your battery have 12.5 volts? Anything less the car will crank but will not start.
Do you here the fuel pump right behind the drivers seat start?
Did you try and Jump the car?
Just some basic questions for a CORVETTE that won't start. There not like other cars there voltage specific. If the computer doesn't get the correct voltage it will not allow the car to start.
#19
Safety Car
I am going to ask a question and you can flame me later.
Have you checked all the connections on your battery and your starter? A loose connection will not have the necessary voltage to start the car. Everything else will work no start.
Does your battery have 12.5 volts? Anything less the car will crank but will not start.
Do you here the fuel pump right behind the drivers seat start?
Did you try and Jump the car?
Just some basic questions for a CORVETTE that won't start. There not like other cars there voltage specific. If the computer doesn't get the correct voltage it will not allow the car to start.
Have you checked all the connections on your battery and your starter? A loose connection will not have the necessary voltage to start the car. Everything else will work no start.
Does your battery have 12.5 volts? Anything less the car will crank but will not start.
Do you here the fuel pump right behind the drivers seat start?
Did you try and Jump the car?
Just some basic questions for a CORVETTE that won't start. There not like other cars there voltage specific. If the computer doesn't get the correct voltage it will not allow the car to start.
Ya i didnt touch any of that stuff before i did what i did.. but they were all tight.. car had 13v, has started at 12v no problem in the past. car cranks all day just never does anything else past that. yea fuel pump comes on as well. I threw a P0336 code the first time i started it.. i let the battery sit with ground and power off for a while.. code now gone...and hasnt returned but still no start
#20
Try to start it now that you have the battery connected, then pull the codes.
The codes will tell you the problem of why is did not start !!!!
As for pulling codes, I have a few different scanners, but my down and dirty method to start with it just an Elm327 WiFi, and Dash Commander on my Iphone.
If you have an Android phone, then Elm327 Blue tooth and the torque app isntead.
The elm327 are like $10 off amazon, and depending on the app for the phone, some are free isntead.
The codes will tell you the problem of why is did not start !!!!
As for pulling codes, I have a few different scanners, but my down and dirty method to start with it just an Elm327 WiFi, and Dash Commander on my Iphone.
If you have an Android phone, then Elm327 Blue tooth and the torque app isntead.
The elm327 are like $10 off amazon, and depending on the app for the phone, some are free isntead.