Another TPMS Problem...
#1
Another TPMS Problem...
Hello guys,
I know thereīs a lot of topics regarding this, but i could find the answer to my problem...
I bought my first Vette two weeks ago... itīs a Z06 2009, when i start driving it the tpms shows "XX", and no low tire pressure indicator, all TC modes were available.
One morning while talking to a friend, i left the lights and radio on, battery down, car wonīt start, you know how it finish.
Now, i got the message "Service TPMS", 3 tires reading "00", 1 with no info, i take the car to the dealer, tried to relearn them but it didnīt work, i donīt have the "low tire pressure" light on... but the car thinks that i don't have tire pressure, so de AH works in strange ways.
Any help..? or just change the sensors..?
Thanxs in advance for your answers.
I know thereīs a lot of topics regarding this, but i could find the answer to my problem...
I bought my first Vette two weeks ago... itīs a Z06 2009, when i start driving it the tpms shows "XX", and no low tire pressure indicator, all TC modes were available.
One morning while talking to a friend, i left the lights and radio on, battery down, car wonīt start, you know how it finish.
Now, i got the message "Service TPMS", 3 tires reading "00", 1 with no info, i take the car to the dealer, tried to relearn them but it didnīt work, i donīt have the "low tire pressure" light on... but the car thinks that i don't have tire pressure, so de AH works in strange ways.
Any help..? or just change the sensors..?
Thanxs in advance for your answers.
#2
Instructor
I have a base 2009 and had some 00 readings on 1 sensor. Once replaced ALL good. But with ur low batt situation I would drive around a bit and be sure it is not batt related. Or replace batt with new and drive around, if
DIC mess remains replace TPMS sensors.
DIC mess remains replace TPMS sensors.
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Onurb (06-21-2016)
#3
Team Owner
Interesting symptoms.
I'm concerned that the dealer couldn't relearn the sensors.
The "XX" usually indicates the sensor batteries have died, but not necessarily.
The "0" pressure often indicates a corrupt memory in the module, so relearning is the answer to that one.
Do you know for a fact that the car battery is GOOD?
If no, or you don't have any idea about the car battery, I suggest you put a new one in, if for no other reason than you will now know the battery history.
If yes, then I suggest you start by disconnecting the battery again for at least 10 minutes. Reconnect and drive the car at least 20 mph for a few minutes. That should wake the sensors up and start them transmitting if they can.
If still nothing, then you're probably looking at new sensors.
I'm concerned that the dealer couldn't relearn the sensors.
The "XX" usually indicates the sensor batteries have died, but not necessarily.
The "0" pressure often indicates a corrupt memory in the module, so relearning is the answer to that one.
Do you know for a fact that the car battery is GOOD?
If no, or you don't have any idea about the car battery, I suggest you put a new one in, if for no other reason than you will now know the battery history.
If yes, then I suggest you start by disconnecting the battery again for at least 10 minutes. Reconnect and drive the car at least 20 mph for a few minutes. That should wake the sensors up and start them transmitting if they can.
If still nothing, then you're probably looking at new sensors.
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Onurb (06-21-2016)
#4
Interesting symptoms.
I'm concerned that the dealer couldn't relearn the sensors.
The "XX" usually indicates the sensor batteries have died, but not necessarily.
The "0" pressure often indicates a corrupt memory in the module, so relearning is the answer to that one.
Do you know for a fact that the car battery is GOOD?
If no, or you don't have any idea about the car battery, I suggest you put a new one in, if for no other reason than you will now know the battery history.
If yes, then I suggest you start by disconnecting the battery again for at least 10 minutes. Reconnect and drive the car at least 20 mph for a few minutes. That should wake the sensors up and start them transmitting if they can.
If still nothing, then you're probably looking at new sensors.
I'm concerned that the dealer couldn't relearn the sensors.
The "XX" usually indicates the sensor batteries have died, but not necessarily.
The "0" pressure often indicates a corrupt memory in the module, so relearning is the answer to that one.
Do you know for a fact that the car battery is GOOD?
If no, or you don't have any idea about the car battery, I suggest you put a new one in, if for no other reason than you will now know the battery history.
If yes, then I suggest you start by disconnecting the battery again for at least 10 minutes. Reconnect and drive the car at least 20 mph for a few minutes. That should wake the sensors up and start them transmitting if they can.
If still nothing, then you're probably looking at new sensors.
To be honest, iīm not sure about the real condition of the battery...
Anyways, iīm going to disconect it and try if its works...
Thanx for the help!
#5
Team Owner
I agree with what Rick said and would only add to put the battery on a charger overnight if you have one. Then do what he said. I guess I would start by replacing the sensor that threw the XX first, before replacing all of them...if replacement is necessary at all.
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Onurb (06-21-2016)
#6
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St. Jude Donor '13
How many miles on the car, presuming the sensors are original?
7-8 years would not be an unusual time for sensor batteries to start dying, especially if the car has a lot of miles. But not a foregone conclusion, so the other suggestions are worth trying first.
7-8 years would not be an unusual time for sensor batteries to start dying, especially if the car has a lot of miles. But not a foregone conclusion, so the other suggestions are worth trying first.
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Onurb (06-21-2016)
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Onurb (06-21-2016)
#8
Drifting
I have had the RF wheel give me a high pressure warning and it was OK and another time I got the XXX. Both times everything cleared after a restart. 2011 with 79k miles.
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Onurb (06-21-2016)
#9
I will try tomorrow the other suggestions...
Thanx again!
#10
Team Owner
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U.S. Air Force
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
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I had trouble tire sensor for year, always showing 0 PSI, eventually it went to XXX, and had it replaced.
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Onurb (06-22-2016)
#12
I left the car with the battery disconnected overnight, and the message appears again... The battery indicator is green, so it should be ok, I'm going to buy the new sensors, what do you think about this ones ?
ACDelco 23445327 GM Original Equipment Tire Pressure Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O9H1JCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.S9Axb9YMXXVM
Thanx again !
ACDelco 23445327 GM Original Equipment Tire Pressure Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O9H1JCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.S9Axb9YMXXVM
Thanx again !
#13
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St. Jude Donor '13
Unfortunately, a green battery indicator is far from foolproof as a battery test. Better to have a shop charge and load test the battery. Or if your battery is more than 3 years old, maybe just replace it.
The Delco/GM sensors are usually good, just be sure to get the right ones since there are a couple of different versions depending on the year of your car and if was made for US or foreign (not sure about Canada).
Some of the aftermarket ones (Schraeder, for example) are good and some others have had problems.
A good tire shop can replace a sensor without removing the tire from the wheel, and so no rebalancing is needed. A bad tire shop can charge too much, scratch your wheels, overtorque the lug nuts, damage the sensors, damage your rocker panels by improper jacking, etc.
The Delco/GM sensors are usually good, just be sure to get the right ones since there are a couple of different versions depending on the year of your car and if was made for US or foreign (not sure about Canada).
Some of the aftermarket ones (Schraeder, for example) are good and some others have had problems.
A good tire shop can replace a sensor without removing the tire from the wheel, and so no rebalancing is needed. A bad tire shop can charge too much, scratch your wheels, overtorque the lug nuts, damage the sensors, damage your rocker panels by improper jacking, etc.
#14
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Since you live in Chile and no 2009 Z06's were exported there, you first need to check where the car originated. Many, if not all, exports had 433 Mhz, while domestics had 315 Mhz.
Check the sticker for the codes on the glovebox door. Look for EXP, UL2, UK1, ZV6, BH4, or BAG. Any one of those will identify an export car. Some will identify the country or continent.
If you find none of those codes, it most likely was manufactured for US/Canada. The only way to absolutely be assured of the correct part number would be to remove one of the sensors.
BTW, other than the annoying DIC message and/or dash light, not having operating sensors won't stop you from driving the car.
Check the sticker for the codes on the glovebox door. Look for EXP, UL2, UK1, ZV6, BH4, or BAG. Any one of those will identify an export car. Some will identify the country or continent.
If you find none of those codes, it most likely was manufactured for US/Canada. The only way to absolutely be assured of the correct part number would be to remove one of the sensors.
BTW, other than the annoying DIC message and/or dash light, not having operating sensors won't stop you from driving the car.
#15
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St. Jude Donor '13
There is some variation for different years, but won't a lack of operating sensors eventually cause the TC/AH to become more aggressive, and prevent turning off TC/AH?
#16
Since you live in Chile and no 2009 Z06's were exported there, you first need to check where the car originated. Many, if not all, exports had 433 Mhz, while domestics had 315 Mhz.
Check the sticker for the codes on the glovebox door. Look for EXP, UL2, UK1, ZV6, BH4, or BAG. Any one of those will identify an export car. Some will identify the country or continent.
If you find none of those codes, it most likely was manufactured for US/Canada. The only way to absolutely be assured of the correct part number would be to remove one of the sensors.
BTW, other than the annoying DIC message and/or dash light, not having operating sensors won't stop you from driving the car.
Check the sticker for the codes on the glovebox door. Look for EXP, UL2, UK1, ZV6, BH4, or BAG. Any one of those will identify an export car. Some will identify the country or continent.
If you find none of those codes, it most likely was manufactured for US/Canada. The only way to absolutely be assured of the correct part number would be to remove one of the sensors.
BTW, other than the annoying DIC message and/or dash light, not having operating sensors won't stop you from driving the car.
I haven't drive it today, I'm going to take a look at the codes before buy the sensors.
I know I can drive the car, but when cornering hard, AH comes in and brakes the outer front wheel, which is very annoying.
Once again, thanks to all who have posted to help me solve the <br >
<br
According to this? The car is US specs?
Last edited by Onurb; 06-25-2016 at 01:33 PM.