Jcbarr25

So I removed my calipers for painting. Everything went surprisingly well. Painting and reassembly was great. No issues. I was worried about the bleeding part but that went well as well. Used a motive pressure bleeder. No issues all air is out of the system and I have fresh fluid in the system. During the pressurized bleeding, I experienced no leaking at all. However, while driving, I performed a couple of hard stops from 60 to about 20 to star the bed down process for my new pads. After that drive, I found brake fluid leaks on two calipers. I am positive its coming from the banjo bolt. Should I try to tighten more or get new crush washers for those two calipers? I don't want to crossthread the calipers. It seems to be small amounts of dripping. I parked for over 12 hrs at work and I didn't see any more dripping. Drove home as I would normally do with normal braking and I don't think there was more fluid leaking. Maybe it was the hard brakes that made them leak? Should I then attempt to tighten the banjo bolt more? Any suggestions are welcomed.

AORoads

I truly do not know the answer, but my question is: are those crush washers one-time use items? Some are for other parts of the car.

BlindSpot

YES...one-time use. They should not be used again. Only luck if they don't leak on a reuse.

cclive

You should replace all of them.

The difference between the bleeding pressure, a couple of psi, and braking pressure, a couple of thousand psi, is meaningful.

Jcbarr25

Alrigh then. I guess I should have done my research better. I will get some from the dealer and replace them all 4 calipers just to be safe and bleed the brakes again.
Thanks

z28lt1

If it's easier, you probably don't need to go to the dealer. My local Advanced Auto has them in a variety of sizes, and I imagine they all do, as long as you know what size you need...

BlindSpot

Besides new washers, it is essential to tighten banjo bolts to the correct torque. Under tightening (by guessing) won't seat/seal the washers. Over tightening can cause galling of the washer surfaces instead of "forming" them to the mating surfaces. Then really over tightening them can distort the body of the banjo pretty much ensuring a leak.

Banjo bolts should be tightened to 15 to 21 ft.lbs. You want to tighten up to the final torque once, then stop.

Jcbarr25

Ok I will replace them all and tighten to proper torque. The front are easy since the torque wrench fits there. Back, well not so easy. Idk how I overlooked that the washers are one time use. Oh well

Don-Vette

Yes, over tightening will cause more leaks. Check torque, replace washer if needed. IMO.

cmonkey713

Yep! Banjo washers are a one time use item. Get the torque spec and tighten to the spec. You can find the washers at NAPA or any well stocked auto parts store. You local chevy parts department should also have them.

cclive

After you tighten the front ones with the torque wrench, you should have a pretty good feel for how tight to do the rear ones even though the torque wrench won't get in there.

Jcbarr25

This is what I will do. I got the new washers. No wonder I am leaking this new ones are thick. From what I remmeber the old one were a lot skinnier. I can't believe I didn't realive I needed new. Oh well I guess this wknd I'll be removing the brake lines and refusing everything.

Thanks everyone for the help. My master cylinder is still full. I think I leaked brake fluid under hard braking but not under normal conditions. Either way, I need to make this correct with new washers.

On a side note, my painted calipers look really good. It was worth it. And the new pads are great too. No more brake dust on my gloss black wheels. Also, I was worried about flushing the brakes bur with the pressurized bleeder, it was easy and quick. My old brake fluid was 5 years old. Will be flushing every 2 years from now on.

BlindSpot

Good practice. I flush BF with a power bleeder every two years on 4 cars.

jimmymac25

Brake fluid eats paint. Get rid of any trace of it.

cclive

They call them CRUSH for a reason...LOL. Glad you got them..the leaks should come to an end now.

Jcbarr25

Yeah I know. Luckily only the back part got ruined and I will resort when I fix this leak. I was more wor tied about my wheels that are powder coated. They are ok though. I don't think it leAK on he barrels

Jcbarr25

This wknd will be another car wknd. Again. This is necessary though. Hopefully this will take car of the leaks. I know it will. I have faith even thou most of my projects always end up like this. With me having to redo stuff. The only project that has gone right has been upgrading my seats

Jaime-Corvette

Do i just wipe it off with a cloth? Windex? Spit? Just did a z06 brakes conversion on my 08 base and on the 4th day (i think) after work i saw a little brake fluid on rear drivers side, but for some reason the rubber seal was not on... hmmp??
Im at work right now, knowing that brake fluid could still be on the red calipers scares me. I only dried it with my finger!

extrapilot

When you remove the banjo bolts, inspect the matting surfaces real good, as a small nick will only create the same leak.

GL

Jcbarr25

Alright I finished everything today. Was surprise how little fluid dripped out. Tighten to 20 ft lb torque and in the back for the as tight as I could to resemble the front. I even marked the front with a marker to see how many turns to the torque. Did the same in the back to get similar torque. Re flushed all good. Went out for a test and to continue to bed down the new pads so hard stops from 60 to about 20. However this time the ABS Active message came on. Last time with the leaks, the message didn't come on. I assume that's a good thing. We shall see