Why is this so hard!
#22
Safety Car
It doesn't have to be that hard if you know what you want.
I knew exactly what I wanted so it was just finding it.
I'd say find the color that you like. Then look at engines and extras. It looks like you want a M6 from the two cars you were looking at.
Keep looking and don't settle until you get everything you want.
I knew exactly what I wanted so it was just finding it.
I'd say find the color that you like. Then look at engines and extras. It looks like you want a M6 from the two cars you were looking at.
Keep looking and don't settle until you get everything you want.
#23
Melting Slicks
Don't be in a rush. I spent a couple of years thinking about it and then about 3 months really looking before I bought mine. There are a lot of options so take the time to study them and figure out what is worth it to you. Some of those options cost a lot when the car was new but very little now. Z51 for instance hardly moves the needle. There are lots of cars out there and lots of websites that show them. No need to restrict yourself to local cars.
#24
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2014
Location: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
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I have an '07 3LT. I would take the lower mileage car without a second thought.
Love the HUD.
Bose stereo I don't care about either way.
No nav, no care, no need for it.
I've tried the heated seats twice just to see if they work. Otherwise I have never used them.
Automatic seats, mirrors, etc. I don't care about because nobody else drives my car.
Love the HUD.
Bose stereo I don't care about either way.
No nav, no care, no need for it.
I've tried the heated seats twice just to see if they work. Otherwise I have never used them.
Automatic seats, mirrors, etc. I don't care about because nobody else drives my car.
#25
i feel like you gotta have the bose or better if you like music and rocking out with the top off. i will probably completely upgrade mine but im a music junky. agreed with bruze nav now adays is dumb (unless your phone dies... been there). heated seats are awkward to me you end up with swamp *** haha.
agreed with above figure out what the main things are. do you want wide body or narrow body, then color, then engine/trans combo, and keep trickling down. you can always upgrade stuff.
see i knew i wanted to do full exhaust and intake etc. so i found a car that had the work done. saved me a bunch of time and $ cuz you never get your money back on the mod work. food for thought
agreed with above figure out what the main things are. do you want wide body or narrow body, then color, then engine/trans combo, and keep trickling down. you can always upgrade stuff.
see i knew i wanted to do full exhaust and intake etc. so i found a car that had the work done. saved me a bunch of time and $ cuz you never get your money back on the mod work. food for thought
#26
Melting Slicks
I couldn't agree more with dr_gallup. Don't be in a rush. Don't settle for anything less than you want. It took me a little while to find an LS3 Z51 with 3LT in my price range, but it was so satisfying to find one.
I personally wanted the LS3, but I think the LS2 with those super low miles would be worth it over the LS3 with 30k more miles at that price.
I personally wanted the LS3, but I think the LS2 with those super low miles would be worth it over the LS3 with 30k more miles at that price.
#28
Thanks for the advice guys. I've been reading a lot of the sticky threads on here and some older posts trying to gauge my interest in certain options. I would love a widebody but right now there are none in my price range without 90k miles. I'm not huge on technology in cars either since I grew up building classic cars with my father, and none of them had heated seats lol. Unless the options effect the overall driving of the car they prob can be over looked.
Should I avoid the transparent tops as well?
Should I avoid the transparent tops as well?
#29
Le Mans Master
Thanks for the advice guys. I've been reading a lot of the sticky threads on here and some older posts trying to gauge my interest in certain options. I would love a widebody but right now there are none in my price range without 90k miles. I'm not huge on technology in cars either since I grew up building classic cars with my father, and none of them had heated seats lol. Unless the options effect the overall driving of the car they prob can be over looked.
Should I avoid the transparent tops as well?
Should I avoid the transparent tops as well?
#30
Been a Corvette lover and owner for 50 years. Your gonna get many opinions on whats good and whats bad. Just keep that salt shaker handy. When you think you've found what you want...go for it and enjoy. Now heres a couple of my opinions just for the sake of all the opinions....the HUD is a novelty just like the paddles on an A6. The Bose stereo is a piece of C#$P....esp the auto volume feature, it works about as good as Mickey Thompsons in a snow storm....good luck !!!!
#31
Burning Brakes
Do yourself a favor and sit in a 1LT car and see the differences first hand. I have a 1LT, and there isn't much I would miss aside from heated seats, and even then I would rather have an LS3 if that was the choice. The navigation system in these is not something to brag about. Its a pretty screen, but that's where it stops. The Bose is a minimal improvement on a poor sounding system from the start, but who needs a radio when you have V8 soundtrack to listen to? Also, consider the interior differences on the later years. Things like the console bezel are different and IMHO, looks better. Only you know what you want, but sit in both and compare. 30K miles is nothing for one of these and I believe the LS3 is a worthy "upgrade" if miles was the only decider.
#32
Melting Slicks
Take this list with you when shopping for your car.
This info may or may not pertain to you, not knowing your knowledge of C6's....
Check list for shopping for a corvette from my observations reading posts here.
Check Harmonic crankshaft balancer for out of roundness and belt chirping noise.
Check for oil pan seeping issues, some seep but never leave a mark on the ground.
Pull the dip stick and note the color of the oil, as it should be light brown to a darker brown, but not gray, this could indicate metallic particles in the oil.
Check the radiator lower supports in the front as they can get damaged from close encounters with a curb and can break the welds loose.
Check for strong fuel odors around the left rear tire, as some have developed a fuel leaks at the left side fuel tank and/or the fuel pump assembly.
While idling the car, there should not be unusual rattling noises coming from underneath the car, as torque tube bearings and couplers can be bad with higher mileage cars.
While driving and releasing the clutch, be sure that transition is smooth with no chattering.
Stock clutches can last over a 100k miles, provided the operators have not abused it up until then.
Car should road test without squeaks and rattles, as I find mine as very quiet, only issue is the that targa tops can creak and is usually a easy fix.
Also the end links have been known to clunk over bumps, but another easy fix
Rear diff have been know to make chattering noises when turning sharply, but usually a gear oil change with the correct oil can solve this issue.
Axle nuts sometimes will become loose and can create creaking noises in the rear end, another easy fix.
Make sure that the ac and heat work and come out the correct vent when going through the operations of the controls. The bellows in the dash can go bad, and this is a rough job to do and expensive if done at the dealership.
Obviously the trans should shift smoothly, but while cold, they can be notchy but should shift better within 10 to 15 miles or so. Check the operation in going into reverse, as there is a synchronize that have given issues recently reported.
The first year 2005's do have a weaker rear end diff, and was updated with the next year models.
If you don't plan to mod the car, this is not really a issue though.
BTW I love my 06 Z51, no regrets and reliable so far as a DD.
Good luck with your quest...
This info may or may not pertain to you, not knowing your knowledge of C6's....
Check list for shopping for a corvette from my observations reading posts here.
Check Harmonic crankshaft balancer for out of roundness and belt chirping noise.
Check for oil pan seeping issues, some seep but never leave a mark on the ground.
Pull the dip stick and note the color of the oil, as it should be light brown to a darker brown, but not gray, this could indicate metallic particles in the oil.
Check the radiator lower supports in the front as they can get damaged from close encounters with a curb and can break the welds loose.
Check for strong fuel odors around the left rear tire, as some have developed a fuel leaks at the left side fuel tank and/or the fuel pump assembly.
While idling the car, there should not be unusual rattling noises coming from underneath the car, as torque tube bearings and couplers can be bad with higher mileage cars.
While driving and releasing the clutch, be sure that transition is smooth with no chattering.
Stock clutches can last over a 100k miles, provided the operators have not abused it up until then.
Car should road test without squeaks and rattles, as I find mine as very quiet, only issue is the that targa tops can creak and is usually a easy fix.
Also the end links have been known to clunk over bumps, but another easy fix
Rear diff have been know to make chattering noises when turning sharply, but usually a gear oil change with the correct oil can solve this issue.
Axle nuts sometimes will become loose and can create creaking noises in the rear end, another easy fix.
Make sure that the ac and heat work and come out the correct vent when going through the operations of the controls. The bellows in the dash can go bad, and this is a rough job to do and expensive if done at the dealership.
Obviously the trans should shift smoothly, but while cold, they can be notchy but should shift better within 10 to 15 miles or so. Check the operation in going into reverse, as there is a synchronize that have given issues recently reported.
The first year 2005's do have a weaker rear end diff, and was updated with the next year models.
If you don't plan to mod the car, this is not really a issue though.
BTW I love my 06 Z51, no regrets and reliable so far as a DD.
Good luck with your quest...
#33
Take this list with you when shopping for your car.
This info may or may not pertain to you, not knowing your knowledge of C6's....
Check list for shopping for a corvette from my observations reading posts here.
Check Harmonic crankshaft balancer for out of roundness and belt chirping noise.
Check for oil pan seeping issues, some seep but never leave a mark on the ground.
Pull the dip stick and note the color of the oil, as it should be light brown to a darker brown, but not gray, this could indicate metallic particles in the oil.
Check the radiator lower supports in the front as they can get damaged from close encounters with a curb and can break the welds loose.
Check for strong fuel odors around the left rear tire, as some have developed a fuel leaks at the left side fuel tank and/or the fuel pump assembly.
While idling the car, there should not be unusual rattling noises coming from underneath the car, as torque tube bearings and couplers can be bad with higher mileage cars.
While driving and releasing the clutch, be sure that transition is smooth with no chattering.
Stock clutches can last over a 100k miles, provided the operators have not abused it up until then.
Car should road test without squeaks and rattles, as I find mine as very quiet, only issue is the that targa tops can creak and is usually a easy fix.
Also the end links have been known to clunk over bumps, but another easy fix
Rear diff have been know to make chattering noises when turning sharply, but usually a gear oil change with the correct oil can solve this issue.
Axle nuts sometimes will become loose and can create creaking noises in the rear end, another easy fix.
Make sure that the ac and heat work and come out the correct vent when going through the operations of the controls. The bellows in the dash can go bad, and this is a rough job to do and expensive if done at the dealership.
Obviously the trans should shift smoothly, but while cold, they can be notchy but should shift better within 10 to 15 miles or so. Check the operation in going into reverse, as there is a synchronize that have given issues recently reported.
The first year 2005's do have a weaker rear end diff, and was updated with the next year models.
If you don't plan to mod the car, this is not really a issue though.
BTW I love my 06 Z51, no regrets and reliable so far as a DD.
Good luck with your quest...
This info may or may not pertain to you, not knowing your knowledge of C6's....
Check list for shopping for a corvette from my observations reading posts here.
Check Harmonic crankshaft balancer for out of roundness and belt chirping noise.
Check for oil pan seeping issues, some seep but never leave a mark on the ground.
Pull the dip stick and note the color of the oil, as it should be light brown to a darker brown, but not gray, this could indicate metallic particles in the oil.
Check the radiator lower supports in the front as they can get damaged from close encounters with a curb and can break the welds loose.
Check for strong fuel odors around the left rear tire, as some have developed a fuel leaks at the left side fuel tank and/or the fuel pump assembly.
While idling the car, there should not be unusual rattling noises coming from underneath the car, as torque tube bearings and couplers can be bad with higher mileage cars.
While driving and releasing the clutch, be sure that transition is smooth with no chattering.
Stock clutches can last over a 100k miles, provided the operators have not abused it up until then.
Car should road test without squeaks and rattles, as I find mine as very quiet, only issue is the that targa tops can creak and is usually a easy fix.
Also the end links have been known to clunk over bumps, but another easy fix
Rear diff have been know to make chattering noises when turning sharply, but usually a gear oil change with the correct oil can solve this issue.
Axle nuts sometimes will become loose and can create creaking noises in the rear end, another easy fix.
Make sure that the ac and heat work and come out the correct vent when going through the operations of the controls. The bellows in the dash can go bad, and this is a rough job to do and expensive if done at the dealership.
Obviously the trans should shift smoothly, but while cold, they can be notchy but should shift better within 10 to 15 miles or so. Check the operation in going into reverse, as there is a synchronize that have given issues recently reported.
The first year 2005's do have a weaker rear end diff, and was updated with the next year models.
If you don't plan to mod the car, this is not really a issue though.
BTW I love my 06 Z51, no regrets and reliable so far as a DD.
Good luck with your quest...
Drove an 2010 LS3 with 22k miles on it last night. It was way out of my price range and the guy was asking too much to begin with. But I figured it was a good way for me to compare the LS2 and LS3. The LS3 is definitely fast, did I notice a huge difference? Not really, and I think for my use of the car (road use) I think either motor is more than plenty. I did notice that I couldn't stop smiling while driving both lol.
So I've narrowed my search down based on everyone's opinions and from the hours I've spent searching this forum. I'm looking for:
A Low Mileage 2006-2007 LS2 Narrow Body M6 (no preference on option level) Solid Color Targa Top. Color: White, Black, or Red
I think this is a great intro for me into the corvette world, and if I decide that later down the road I want more power, I'll mod the LS2 or upgrade to the LS3 or LS7. Nothing like having room to grow.
Last edited by arkentect; 09-22-2016 at 10:21 AM.
#34
Burning Brakes
As long as you get your color, transmission, and mileage preferences i think you will be very happy. Like you said you can always grow in power and the same holds true for the interior, so i wouldn't even concern myself with whether its a 1lt or 3lt.
Last edited by bgspot; 09-22-2016 at 10:48 AM.
#36
Le Mans Master
The difference between the LS2 and the LS3 cars isn't a very big factor, if you get the Z51 option....If you read the thread at the bottom , it shows the actual certified LS2 HP ratings.. It shows that the LS2 engine was actually under rated by GM.. It also shows that the LS2 engine had a "real Certified HP"rating of 411 HP...They say this was done by GM so they wouldn't **** off the guys that bought the 2004 ZO6 cars,which had 405 HP , and then the very next year (2005) you could buy a base model Z51 which had more HP then their ZO6 .. Check out the statistics the guy has gathered. It shows that the LS2 and the LS3 aren't as far apart on HP as GM says they are....WW
Here is what they say the real Certified HP is for the C6 Cars...
2005 to 2007 C6 Z51 – 411 hp & 3179 lbs. (12.5 sec. @ 115 mph)
2008 Z51 with NPP exhaust – 436 hp & 3217 lbs. (12.4 sec. @ 117 mph
Read this..... https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-ls2-guys.html
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Here is what they say the real Certified HP is for the C6 Cars...
2005 to 2007 C6 Z51 – 411 hp & 3179 lbs. (12.5 sec. @ 115 mph)
2008 Z51 with NPP exhaust – 436 hp & 3217 lbs. (12.4 sec. @ 117 mph
Read this..... https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-ls2-guys.html
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Last edited by WW7; 09-23-2016 at 07:38 AM.
#37
I have become used to my HUD and would miss it.. Also like the dual power seats.. I could give a rip about a heated seat as I live in the south..boy's up North probably feel different.
#38
Not at all. I've never used them. Once the weather turns, the Vette goes into hibernation. No fun driving it in sub zero temps with snow, road salts and de-ice everywhere. I would get better use out of cooled seats.
#39
Team Owner
The heated seats are definitely more important in a Vert...I love driving with the top down when it is cool outside and it's very comfortable with the heater on and the seats warm.
#40
I'm not really a convertible kinda guy, and my GF hates her hair messed up so that would completely negate the reason for buying a vert lol.