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oil overfill z06

Old 10-03-2016, 08:11 AM
  #61  
gsflyer2011
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Good plan! May the force be with you.
Old 10-03-2016, 08:45 AM
  #62  
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Would it be wise to remove spark plugs and turn it over with starter for a few seconds to remove possible excess oil from cylinders? What could it hurt other than blowing oil all over the engine bay?
Old 10-03-2016, 09:25 AM
  #63  
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I'd check compression before starting it. If you have a bent rod or cracked piston/head it should show up as low compression. You don't want to start up a slightly damaged engine and make things worse.
Old 10-03-2016, 08:23 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by dr_gallup
I'd check compression before starting it. If you have a bent rod or cracked piston/head it should show up as low compression. You don't want to start up a slightly damaged engine and make things worse.


That is an excellent idea.
Old 10-04-2016, 07:52 AM
  #65  
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Dude don't beat yourself up. Everyone here has done something they wish they could take back. Time to just move forward. I am hoping that your starter was too wimpy to hurt a rod or piston. Get as much oil out as you can, if you check the compression it might read high with the residual oil in the cylinders. Cranking it with the spark plugs out will get most of it out, unless there is oil still in the intake. Make sure everything is clean as possible before you try to crank it. I am pulling for you..

By the way, I was building a big block 454 several years back. I had the engine on the stand and decided that I would see if I could get a little more compression from it by indexing the cam. I would move the cam one tooth which is about 4 degrees forward and back, then check the compression. I had the starter all hooked up so I could do this bench testing while I still had the engine on the stand. Well I got a little carried away and moved the cam too far. When I hit the starter I heard clanky clank clank. Humm what could that be? So I hit the starter again, same noise, then a sickening feeling came over me. I knew exactly what I had done. Bent all 8 brand new intake valves on a fresh engine that had never even been fired up.
So stuff happens, to all of use, just learn and move forward. Good Luck
Old 10-04-2016, 09:17 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by 3blackcars
my 2008 z06 rattles on cold start up after a week or so sitting in the garage. my buddy says "check the oil", and i did ! it was quite low so i put 2 quarts in and started it up. holy crapolla!!! smoking like a bonfire and skipping! so i shut it off and now the dipstick says, way over full! i then drain off the excess oil and start it up, only it won't start and instead makes a big POW, backfire i guess, so i attempt a restart and all i get is the whirring of a bad starter motor! is it possible the engine was hydro locked because of excess oil in the cylinders?
wow.

Last edited by CriticalmassGT; 10-04-2016 at 09:18 AM.
Old 10-04-2016, 09:03 PM
  #67  
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telling tales built a 67 chevy ii with a 67 L88 wiend tunnel ram two fours an a Magnito. this is in central Il. along the river with willow bugs an misquitos out and florsance light bulb. first fireup. crank the starter get oil an fuel pressure time to hit the voltage. NOT the mag works an fires the fuel dumped into the intake by the carbs big boom fire flies up incenarates the bugs which rain down then the engine catches an starts . which causes the tubes in the fixtures to vibe rate an turn. as they do no support so gravity takes command an down comes the bulbs which shatter all over the garage. shut down car an clean up the mess. learned a couple of lessons that night. JD
Old 10-11-2016, 06:32 AM
  #68  
3blackcars
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
So, any update on this story???
after installing a new ac delco starter motor, i lined the engine bay with towels, spun the engine over for 5 seconds, four times, and oil spray subsided. then installed the spark plugs, said a final prayer and hit the starter. fired up immediately but smoked like crazy! after letting it idle for 20-30 minutes i took it out and smoke disappeared after 10-15 minutes and i am elated to report that she runs as good as new!!!!
thanks everyone for your well wishes and suggestions!
now, when changing the oil...............instructions please!!
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:43 AM
  #69  
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thanks for the update, good to hear it's ok.
Old 10-11-2016, 07:14 AM
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Halalujah! Good for you! Did you check the oil afterwards as per the procedure afterwards to make sure? Also plugs may need to be cleaned / replaced, they may have lot of carbon on them. There are 2 drain plugs, one on the oil pan and one on the bottom of the oil sump reservoir. They are very close to each other within 5-6 inches. Take both plugs out, let everything drain. Take out the filter. Drain plugs do not have metal washers, they are multi use. Installation is reverse. Oil filter is ac delco UPF-48R specially for the dry sump. the drain plugs are torqued to 18 ft lbs and the filter is 22 ft lbs than fill it with 10 quarts if oil. Capacity is 10.5 quarts. Drive, warm up and recheck oil, than add the half quart if it needs it.
Old 10-11-2016, 07:17 AM
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I see yours is 2008, do check your owners manual for the oil capacity. Later models are 10.5, some earlier years were less, i am not sure about 2008.
Old 10-11-2016, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gsflyer2011
I see yours is 2008, do check your owners manual for the oil capacity. Later models are 10.5, some earlier years were less, i am not sure about 2008.
The factory dry sump tanks for the LS7 were 8 qts for MY2006 thru 2008. It was only increased to 10.5 qts for the LS7 when the LS9 was introduced for MY2009.
Old 10-11-2016, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 3blackcars
after installing a new ac delco starter motor, i lined the engine bay with towels, spun the engine over for 5 seconds, four times, and oil spray subsided. then installed the spark plugs, said a final prayer and hit the starter. fired up immediately but smoked like crazy! after letting it idle for 20-30 minutes i took it out and smoke disappeared after 10-15 minutes and i am elated to report that she runs as good as new!!!!
thanks everyone for your well wishes and suggestions!
now, when changing the oil...............instructions please!!
Excellent news!!!!
Old 10-11-2016, 10:34 AM
  #74  
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:04 AM
  #75  
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2008 only takes 8 quarts...DO NOT put 10 qts in . Engine needs to get to normal operating temp (about 170 degree F), let sit approximately 5 minutes (engine off). Check oil.

1. To obtain an accurate engine oil level reading,
warm up the engine to at least 175°F (80°C).
2. Turn off the engine and wait at least five minutes
before removing the dipstick from the dry sump
engine oil tank.
3. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a lint-free
paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all
the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down

Taken from page 5-17 of the owners manual.

Last edited by LMB-Z; 10-11-2016 at 11:10 AM.
Old 10-11-2016, 11:14 AM
  #76  
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Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has
so much oil that the oil level gets above the
cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating
range, the engine could be damaged.

Taken from page 5-18 of the owners manual.

Engine Oil with Filter
6.0 L Engine 5.5 qt 5.2 L
6.0 L Engine Performance Package (Z51) 6.0 qt 5.7 L
7.0 L Engine 8.0 qt 7.6 L

Taken from page 5-101 of the owners manual. Note: Z06 has 7.0 L engine
Old 10-11-2016, 04:33 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by 3blackcars
after installing a new ac delco starter motor, i lined the engine bay with towels, spun the engine over for 5 seconds, four times, and oil spray subsided. then installed the spark plugs, said a final prayer and hit the starter. fired up immediately but smoked like crazy! after letting it idle for 20-30 minutes i took it out and smoke disappeared after 10-15 minutes and i am elated to report that she runs as good as new!!!!
thanks everyone for your well wishes and suggestions!
now, when changing the oil...............instructions please!!
Wonderful news!
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:20 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by gsflyer2011
Halalujah! Good for you! Did you check the oil afterwards as per the procedure afterwards to make sure? Also plugs may need to be cleaned / replaced, they may have lot of carbon on them. There are 2 drain plugs, one on the oil pan and one on the bottom of the oil sump reservoir. They are very close to each other within 5-6 inches. Take both plugs out, let everything drain. Take out the filter. Drain plugs do not have metal washers, they are multi use. Installation is reverse. Oil filter is ac delco UPF-48R specially for the dry sump. the drain plugs are torqued to 18 ft lbs and the filter is 22 ft lbs than fill it with 10 quarts if oil. Capacity is 10.5 quarts. Drive, warm up and recheck oil, than add the half quart if it needs it.
i wish i read this thread a month ago!!! where do you pour the oil? in the dry sump? how lonf do i wait before i start it up?
Old 10-11-2016, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 3blackcars
i wish i read this thread a month ago!!! where do you pour the oil? in the dry sump? how lonf do i wait before i start it up?
Oil goes in the reservoir and the oil cap is right next to the dipstick. To the best if my recollection the hole to hole in the short dipstick is equivalent to one quart. Better be half quart under than over. If it says 8.5 quarts, put in 8 warm it up to operating temp, stop engine, wait about 10 minutes and check. If still needs the half, put it in. You do not have to wait at all after putting the oil in, you can start it immediately. Once the pressure comes up rev it up to 2k and while car running, check for leaks from the drain plugs and the filter. If you torqued them right, there should be none. Last thing, when you take the old filter out make sure the rubber upper seal from the old one is not stuck on the filter housing on the car and comes off with the old filter. It is also good idea to fill the filter with oil, and put some oil on the rubber gasket on top of it. That way it turns up and torques properly without the seal binding.
Old 10-11-2016, 11:27 PM
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Great glad You got a break enjoy it. hope your health does too big scare.
JD

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