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I Love my garage but ******

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Old 10-26-2016, 06:52 PM
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Not So Fast
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Default I Love my garage but ******

I spend lot of time in my garage, doing what old guys do, and I use my mechanics seat and creeper all the time. But the concrete finishers used these ungodly large and deep expansion joint tools which I get the wheels stuck in all the time, fell off a few times because of it.
So My question is do you guys think this product "Sakrete Top N Bond" large concrete crack repair, will work for evening the floor out, the joint is about 1.5 " wide and 3/4" deep. I don't care if it cracks a little just so it levels out the floor. I will tape it off so it looks good also


Hers a video of them using it, looks like it may just accomplish my idea eh ???? What say you
NSF

Last edited by Not So Fast; 10-26-2016 at 06:54 PM.
Old 10-26-2016, 07:04 PM
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Bruze
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I have some concrete experience, and it seems like it would be okay.
Old 10-26-2016, 07:09 PM
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R&L's C6
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I used a Polyurethane Self-Leveling concrete sealant on the space in front of the garage door years ago and even with all the freeze/thaw cycles, it still looks great. Something like that would work great in your circumstance IMO.
Old 10-26-2016, 07:27 PM
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PAULEB07
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Being a mason contractor, I do not recommend it at all. I don't know why they would finish it like that. It might be a good idea to put one of those matts or rolls. Just google garage floors. Thats the best thing to do. IMHO. You are always going to get stuck in those joints.
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:33 PM
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mrk1957
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I have the same problem and I'm going to caulk mine. I'm not sure yet what type of caulking, but I've seen it in expansion joints.
Old 10-26-2016, 07:37 PM
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Silverton34
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If you trowel the product into the joints it will look like *** unless you plan to paint the floor afterwards.
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:39 PM
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Silverton34
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Buy Loctite brand self leveling concrete polyurethane sealant. Self leveling is the key! Fill a small area and let it cure then try running your creeper over it before doing the whole garage. If you don't use the self leveling and trowel the product in it will look terrible.

Last edited by Silverton34; 10-26-2016 at 07:41 PM.
Old 10-26-2016, 08:01 PM
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KyJim
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Bobby, I'm an Architect.....don't use concrete or other self leveling products which most have some latex in them. The best is a self-leveling, pourable traffic bound sealant. It has to go thru a curing process, but once cured will hold up to the creeper and vehicle traffic.
This is what you see in the sidewalks and concrete pavement joints around commercial buildings.


If you don't want do use this then an elastomeric sealant from a caulk gun will be the next best thing.


Let me know if you need me to provide any additional information.
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Old 10-26-2016, 08:05 PM
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Bruze
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I'm pretty sure NSF knows he has to trowel it level. ^

EDIT: In response to post #7.

Last edited by Bruze; 10-26-2016 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 10-26-2016, 08:41 PM
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Steve Haefner
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do one of that super cool garage flooring
https://www.garageflooringinc.com/tiles/index.html
Old 10-26-2016, 08:43 PM
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I would do none of the above, look into Race Deck instead
Old 10-26-2016, 08:56 PM
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Kvothe
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Have you thought about putting a wider caster on so it won't get stuck in the crack?
Old 10-26-2016, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by KyJim
Bobby, I'm an Architect.....don't use concrete or other self leveling products which most have some latex in them. The best is a self-leveling, pourable traffic bound sealant. It has to go thru a curing process, but once cured will hold up to the creeper and vehicle traffic.
This is what you see in the sidewalks and concrete pavement joints around commercial buildings.


If you don't want do use this then an elastomeric sealant from a caulk gun will be the next best thing.


Let me know if you need me to provide any additional information.


This is what was used to 'fix' large cracks/joints in the many vast expanses of concrete where I work.

Originally Posted by Kvothe
Have you thought about putting a wider caster on so it won't get stuck in the crack?


I installed larger diameter casters on both my creeper and rolling stool. My exposed-aggregate driveway is a PITA to maneuver across as well.

Old 10-26-2016, 09:37 PM
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Not So Fast
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Originally Posted by Silverton34
If you trowel the product into the joints it will look like *** unless you plan to paint the floor afterwards.
I would do as they did in the video, mask it so the lines are straight, don't think it would look bad at all IMHO

Originally Posted by KyJim
Bobby, I'm an Architect.....don't use concrete or other self leveling products which most have some latex in them. The best is a self-leveling, pourable traffic bound sealant. It has to go thru a curing process, but once cured will hold up to the creeper and vehicle traffic.
This is what you see in the sidewalks and concrete pavement joints around commercial buildings.


If you don't want do use this then an elastomeric sealant from a caulk gun will be the next best thing.


Let me know if you need me to provide any additional information.
Thank you, It would take a considerable amount of caulking type product, my garage is 1300 Sq Ft and those joints are pretty deep & wide. I have seen the stuff at the new Wal-Mart thou and wondered what they used

Originally Posted by Bruze
I'm pretty sure NSF knows he has to trowel it level. ^

EDIT: In response to post #7.
Yeah Duh Did do concrete work when I was younger

Originally Posted by Steve Haefner
do one of that super cool garage flooring
https://www.garageflooringinc.com/tiles/index.html
See reply as to cost for my size garage floor I'm a poor retired working stiff

Thanks to all that replied
Home Depot has a 10 gallon tub of the Sakrete stuff for $8, so I think I will try it in one of the joints then see what it looks like and if it stays put, as long as it doesn't "pop out" it will accomplish my goal.
Will advise results
Thanks again
Bobby
Old 10-26-2016, 09:40 PM
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HBsurfer
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How about that stuff that goes between swimming pool coping and the concrete deck? It is self leveling and pretty tough while still allowing expansion and contraction between the two slabs. Not a concrete guy but I thought I would grow it out there. Seemed to install easily and it looks nice and seems to be pretty durable.
Old 10-26-2016, 09:44 PM
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Ron'sGS
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I would suggest a large rubber garage mat.
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Old 10-26-2016, 10:30 PM
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A totally different direction would be to install a lift and retire the stool and creeper.

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Old 10-26-2016, 11:49 PM
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I did mine and it worked great...use a damp sponge and finish the top like you would do tile grout...rinse and repeat many times. I wish they had done saw cut joints instead of those crappy rounded ones. I had no input obviously. My creeper rolls around as if the floor was perfectly smooth...great!

It is essentially just a wide grout joint but grout will not work in a space this wide. If you have never done tile work, get someone to show you how they finish a grout joint...do the same here with the concrete and it will be fine.

Last edited by cclive; 10-26-2016 at 11:51 PM.
Old 10-27-2016, 11:12 AM
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Not So Fast
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
A totally different direction would be to install a lift and retire the stool and creeper.
Funny for sure

Originally Posted by cclive
I did mine and it worked great...use a damp sponge and finish the top like you would do tile grout...rinse and repeat many times. I wish they had done saw cut joints instead of those crappy rounded ones. I had no input obviously. My creeper rolls around as if the floor was perfectly smooth...great!

It is essentially just a wide grout joint but grout will not work in a space this wide. If you have never done tile work, get someone to show you how they finish a grout joint...do the same here with the concrete and it will be fine.
I agree with you, done some tile work previously and under stand the concept well.
The product says that is has "bonding " properties that will adhere so I am trying it, nothing to lose but a little time & effort
NSF
Old 10-27-2016, 11:39 AM
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MikeERWNC
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I would get a 50 pound bag of floor leveler then mix it and pour it into the cracks.
Just enough so it fills the crack without overflowing. Then wipe it smooth. 30 minutes later you have a flat floor.
Just don't mix it so rough that you have a million small air bubbles.
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