I Love my garage but ******
#1
Le Mans Master
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I Love my garage but ******
I spend lot of time in my garage, doing what old guys do, and I use my mechanics seat and creeper all the time. But the concrete finishers used these ungodly large and deep expansion joint tools which I get the wheels stuck in all the time, fell off a few times because of it.
So My question is do you guys think this product "Sakrete Top N Bond" large concrete crack repair, will work for evening the floor out, the joint is about 1.5 " wide and 3/4" deep. I don't care if it cracks a little just so it levels out the floor. I will tape it off so it looks good also
Hers a video of them using it, looks like it may just accomplish my idea eh ???? What say you
NSF
So My question is do you guys think this product "Sakrete Top N Bond" large concrete crack repair, will work for evening the floor out, the joint is about 1.5 " wide and 3/4" deep. I don't care if it cracks a little just so it levels out the floor. I will tape it off so it looks good also
Hers a video of them using it, looks like it may just accomplish my idea eh ???? What say you
NSF
Last edited by Not So Fast; 10-26-2016 at 06:54 PM.
#3
I used a Polyurethane Self-Leveling concrete sealant on the space in front of the garage door years ago and even with all the freeze/thaw cycles, it still looks great. Something like that would work great in your circumstance IMO.
#4
Drifting
Being a mason contractor, I do not recommend it at all. I don't know why they would finish it like that. It might be a good idea to put one of those matts or rolls. Just google garage floors. Thats the best thing to do. IMHO. You are always going to get stuck in those joints.
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Landru (10-27-2016)
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Landru (10-27-2016)
#7
Advanced
Buy Loctite brand self leveling concrete polyurethane sealant. Self leveling is the key! Fill a small area and let it cure then try running your creeper over it before doing the whole garage. If you don't use the self leveling and trowel the product in it will look terrible.
Last edited by Silverton34; 10-26-2016 at 07:41 PM.
#8
Pro
Bobby, I'm an Architect.....don't use concrete or other self leveling products which most have some latex in them. The best is a self-leveling, pourable traffic bound sealant. It has to go thru a curing process, but once cured will hold up to the creeper and vehicle traffic.
This is what you see in the sidewalks and concrete pavement joints around commercial buildings.
If you don't want do use this then an elastomeric sealant from a caulk gun will be the next best thing.
Let me know if you need me to provide any additional information.
This is what you see in the sidewalks and concrete pavement joints around commercial buildings.
If you don't want do use this then an elastomeric sealant from a caulk gun will be the next best thing.
Let me know if you need me to provide any additional information.
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jbc1995fb (10-26-2016),
Not So Fast (10-26-2016)
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Not So Fast (10-26-2016)
#13
Race Director
Bobby, I'm an Architect.....don't use concrete or other self leveling products which most have some latex in them. The best is a self-leveling, pourable traffic bound sealant. It has to go thru a curing process, but once cured will hold up to the creeper and vehicle traffic.
This is what you see in the sidewalks and concrete pavement joints around commercial buildings.
If you don't want do use this then an elastomeric sealant from a caulk gun will be the next best thing.
Let me know if you need me to provide any additional information.
This is what you see in the sidewalks and concrete pavement joints around commercial buildings.
If you don't want do use this then an elastomeric sealant from a caulk gun will be the next best thing.
Let me know if you need me to provide any additional information.
This is what was used to 'fix' large cracks/joints in the many vast expanses of concrete where I work.
I installed larger diameter casters on both my creeper and rolling stool. My exposed-aggregate driveway is a PITA to maneuver across as well.
#14
Le Mans Master
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Bobby, I'm an Architect.....don't use concrete or other self leveling products which most have some latex in them. The best is a self-leveling, pourable traffic bound sealant. It has to go thru a curing process, but once cured will hold up to the creeper and vehicle traffic.
This is what you see in the sidewalks and concrete pavement joints around commercial buildings.
If you don't want do use this then an elastomeric sealant from a caulk gun will be the next best thing.
Let me know if you need me to provide any additional information.
This is what you see in the sidewalks and concrete pavement joints around commercial buildings.
If you don't want do use this then an elastomeric sealant from a caulk gun will be the next best thing.
Let me know if you need me to provide any additional information.
do one of that super cool garage flooring
https://www.garageflooringinc.com/tiles/index.html
https://www.garageflooringinc.com/tiles/index.html
Thanks to all that replied
Home Depot has a 10 gallon tub of the Sakrete stuff for $8, so I think I will try it in one of the joints then see what it looks like and if it stays put, as long as it doesn't "pop out" it will accomplish my goal.
Will advise results
Thanks again
Bobby
#15
Le Mans Master
How about that stuff that goes between swimming pool coping and the concrete deck? It is self leveling and pretty tough while still allowing expansion and contraction between the two slabs. Not a concrete guy but I thought I would grow it out there. Seemed to install easily and it looks nice and seems to be pretty durable.
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JerriVette (11-12-2016)
#17
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
A totally different direction would be to install a lift and retire the stool and creeper.
#18
Team Owner
I did mine and it worked great...use a damp sponge and finish the top like you would do tile grout...rinse and repeat many times. I wish they had done saw cut joints instead of those crappy rounded ones. I had no input obviously. My creeper rolls around as if the floor was perfectly smooth...great!
It is essentially just a wide grout joint but grout will not work in a space this wide. If you have never done tile work, get someone to show you how they finish a grout joint...do the same here with the concrete and it will be fine.
It is essentially just a wide grout joint but grout will not work in a space this wide. If you have never done tile work, get someone to show you how they finish a grout joint...do the same here with the concrete and it will be fine.
Last edited by cclive; 10-26-2016 at 11:51 PM.
#19
Le Mans Master
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I did mine and it worked great...use a damp sponge and finish the top like you would do tile grout...rinse and repeat many times. I wish they had done saw cut joints instead of those crappy rounded ones. I had no input obviously. My creeper rolls around as if the floor was perfectly smooth...great!
It is essentially just a wide grout joint but grout will not work in a space this wide. If you have never done tile work, get someone to show you how they finish a grout joint...do the same here with the concrete and it will be fine.
It is essentially just a wide grout joint but grout will not work in a space this wide. If you have never done tile work, get someone to show you how they finish a grout joint...do the same here with the concrete and it will be fine.
The product says that is has "bonding " properties that will adhere so I am trying it, nothing to lose but a little time & effort
NSF
#20
Melting Slicks
I would get a 50 pound bag of floor leveler then mix it and pour it into the cracks.
Just enough so it fills the crack without overflowing. Then wipe it smooth. 30 minutes later you have a flat floor.
Just don't mix it so rough that you have a million small air bubbles.
Just enough so it fills the crack without overflowing. Then wipe it smooth. 30 minutes later you have a flat floor.
Just don't mix it so rough that you have a million small air bubbles.
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Not So Fast (10-27-2016)