Replacing C6 suspension wear parts, 132k, check my list please
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Replacing C6 suspension wear parts, 132k, check my list please
Going with ProForged for the parts.
4 x Upper Ball Joint
4 x Lower Ball Joint
2 x Front Sway Bar End Link
2 x Rear Sway Bar End Link (same part front and rear)
2 x Inner Tie Rod End
2 x Outer Tie Rod End
http://proforged.com/catalog/2005/Chevrolet/Corvette (<-WORK SAFE)
Proforged advised that I use the 101-10420 upper ball joint.
As best I can tell there is no difference in the ball joints from front to rear so any upper/lower works at any corner.
Anything else I should be looking at while each corner is apart? I'll be checking the MR shocks for leakage before I hand the car over to the shop. I've replaced 2 of 4 over the life of the car so far. This is a daily-driven 05 that sees some less-than-ideal roads regularly.
4 x Upper Ball Joint
4 x Lower Ball Joint
2 x Front Sway Bar End Link
2 x Rear Sway Bar End Link (same part front and rear)
2 x Inner Tie Rod End
2 x Outer Tie Rod End
http://proforged.com/catalog/2005/Chevrolet/Corvette (<-WORK SAFE)
Proforged advised that I use the 101-10420 upper ball joint.
As best I can tell there is no difference in the ball joints from front to rear so any upper/lower works at any corner.
Anything else I should be looking at while each corner is apart? I'll be checking the MR shocks for leakage before I hand the car over to the shop. I've replaced 2 of 4 over the life of the car so far. This is a daily-driven 05 that sees some less-than-ideal roads regularly.
Last edited by Emfuser; 12-01-2016 at 12:44 PM.
#2
Race Director
You could also replace the upper and lower A-frame bushings on all four corners. Don't forget to replace the shocks or shock bushings or at least inspect them for any wear or cracking. Replace bolts as necessary.
#3
Team Owner
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C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I would replace the hub bearings while I had it all apart.
I replaced all 4 hub bearings but everything else felt good.....at 178,000 miles now.
I replaced all 4 hub bearings but everything else felt good.....at 178,000 miles now.
#4
Race Director
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
If you're wanting to go back 100K miles or so, buy every suspension part that attaches to the frame except the wheels and your shocks. Getting them from a low mile flood car might be the least expensive.
Personally, the only replacement parts for me at 140K have been hubs, rotors, and end links.
Personally, the only replacement parts for me at 140K have been hubs, rotors, and end links.
Last edited by HOXXOH; 12-05-2016 at 01:41 PM. Reason: added end links
#5
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Very occasionally I've read of motor mounts, but that's by no means a problem area.
#6
Le Mans Master
If you want to be "thorough" and "authentic", replace the suspension adjusting bolts too. At least the fronts.
Recently, besides cramming 100 extra lbs of junk on my engine, I measured my suspension and the front sat at 26.2". Factory setting from the bottom of the fender wheel well opening to the ground is 27.3". I got busy adjusting the front suspension but, after almost fully extended on the adjusting bolts I could only get about 26.6" Looking at the bolts, the bases were only about 1/4" thick. Below is a pic of the new ones I picked up. You can see by the head size, all of that hard rubber material had worn down (in 50K miles). Probably 3/4"
Recently, besides cramming 100 extra lbs of junk on my engine, I measured my suspension and the front sat at 26.2". Factory setting from the bottom of the fender wheel well opening to the ground is 27.3". I got busy adjusting the front suspension but, after almost fully extended on the adjusting bolts I could only get about 26.6" Looking at the bolts, the bases were only about 1/4" thick. Below is a pic of the new ones I picked up. You can see by the head size, all of that hard rubber material had worn down (in 50K miles). Probably 3/4"
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
My front ball joints and tie rod ends are definitely showing some age. The top-left has an open boot and has for about a year. I can hear my sway bar end links rattling around on slow turns. Part of my plans include having my shop put the car up on the lift and go over all four corners to see what's in good shape and what's not.
#10
Race Director
My thought is as long as everything is apart go ahead and replace all the wear parts. May cost a little more but the piece of mind just knowing everything is new would be worth it to me.