Thanks.. It has a brand new battery tested. I'm willing to bet my life it's way more then the battery. I'm guessing the rcdlr.. We will find out soon..

 

Unreal.. Just spoke to the dealer. They put the console back together because the tow driver had to take it apart to put it in neutral and bam, the car starts right up? Both fobs works, no codes. The trunk won't open from the key and they are looking at that but seriously, I am frustrated. We tried for HOURS to get this car started. Unhooked, and hooked the battery literally 15 times. It sat for 3 days with the battery disconnected and still nothing. All they did was put the console back together and it fires yo?. Wow.. They are keeping it overnight.. I don't get this at all.. ��

 

This is pretty scary. Are you the original owner? Can the dealer do a service search on the VIN to see if there have been any previous service issues on the car?

It makes me afraid to replace the battery or get too far from home.

And the first time you had any problem was when you took it in for an oil change?

 

Yeah it is.. I'm going to be thinking about this everytime when I drive now. I've NEVER had a problem with this car, I've had it for 2 years and all has been good. I am not the original owner. No prior issues, the dealer did run the vin. They have no clue. The only thing I can think of is maybe a loose wire in the console?.. It makes no sense that the car starts right up after putting the console together.. We'll see if there are any problems at the dealer today..

 

I'm guessing it's not the console but the moving of the shift lever that did the trick. Perhaps something in the neutral safety switch/sensor? Sorry, I'm not too familiar with automatic linkage.

 

And this is why I repeatedly get upset when people tell others that disconnecting the battery will somehow reset something to fix every issue from no start to a funny smell. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery puts surges into the electronics. Most of the time it isn't an immediate problem but occasionally bad things happen to the many computers in these cars. And even if nothing happens immediately, the surge protection built in gets weaker and eventually... Disconnecting the battery in a 53 Buick was trivial. Disconnecting the battery was how you reset the codes in a C4. Today disconnecting the battery does absolutely nothing good for these cars. You should do it only when you absolutely have to replace the battery.

OP, your issue could be a damaged RCDLR or it could be a damaged BCM or it could be the ECM or it could be one or more of a dozen other modules. A $25 code reader should tell you exactly where the problem. Since it starts after removing and reinstalling the console, I'm thinking simple battery cable issue (NOT solenoid, you had lots of symptoms of a cable issue and many that were not related to the solenoid such as FOBs not working ) that was jiggled during the tow.

 

Is it the butterfly hood or the antenna (with manual control) that attracts you to a '53 Buick?

 

Here is some GOOD information on batteries and replacement for all you DIY'ers..........

Disconnecting or replacing a battery on a computer-equipped vehicle may cause starting, drivability and a number of other problems, including loss of air conditioning, power accessory functions (door windows, seats, sunroof), false warning lights, even damage to certain electronic modules! So if you are replacing or disconnecting a battery for any reason, proceed with caution.

Disconnecting Your Car Battery Can Cause Memory Loss

What kind of problems am I talking about? Loss of memory is one. When you disconnect the battery on any vehicle that has computerized engine controls (which is virtually every car and truck that has been built since 1981), the loss of voltage to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) causes it to forget is adaptive memory settings in its Keep Alive Memory (KAM) chip. Adaptive memory contains the adjustments the PCM has learned over time for the fuel mixture, transmission shift points and other control functions. The Keep Alive memory also includes all the results for the diagnostic self-tests the PCM runs on itself, its sensors and emission control components, plus any fault codes that may have been set (including history codes and freeze frame data that may be needed for diagnosis).

An old mechanic's trick for turning for temporarily eliminating certain kinds of drivability problems is to disconnect the battery ground cable for 10 seconds to "reset" the computer. Essentially, this trick erases the stored fault codes in the PCM's keep alive memory and turns the Check Engine light off. But this is NOT a fix for a Check Engine light. All it does is turn the light of temporarily and return the PCM to its initial base settings for the air/fuel mixture, idle speed and other control functions. If the vehicle has a problem, sooner or later the same fault code(s) will reset and the same drivability problems will return because the cause has not been diagnosed and repaired. It may take a few days, but the problem will be back.

Warning: Disconnecting the battery to reset the PCM on a growing number of late model (2003 and newer) vehicles can do more than erase the Keep Alive memory. It can also erase vital learned information that is absolutely necessary for other modules to function normally.

Also Note: Disconnecting the battery will NOT allow a vehicle to pass an OBD II plug-in emissions test. It may temporarily turn off the Check Engine light, but this won't fool the computer at the test lane. When the test computer is plugged into the vehicle diagnostic connector, it will check the PCM to see if all of the OBD II self-diagnostic monitors have run. If all of the monitors have not completed, the vehicle will be rejected at the test lane. You will then have to continue driving your vehicle until all of the self-checks have completed (which may take up to several days). If the Check Engine light does not come back on after all of the self-checks have completed, the vehicle will pass the test. But if there is a problem, the Check Engine light will come on again and the vehicle will fail the test.

Problems That May Occur If You Disconnect Your Car battery

What happens when the battery is disconnected? It depends on the year, make and model of your vehicle, but any of the following may happen:

Loss of learned values in the PCM's Keep Alive adaptive memory. This may cause the engine to run poorly because the air/fuel mixture is too rich or too lean for a period of time until the PCM can relearn the fuel trim adjustments. This may take up to several days and 50 to 100 miles of driving until engine operation returns to "normal."

Erasing the PCM's adaptive memory may also affect the way the transmission shifts and feels. The transmission may not feel the same until the PCM or transmission control module relearns the shift adjustments. This may take 50 to 75 miles of driving.

It resets the ABS (Antilock Brake System) and SIR (Supplemental Inflation Restraint) or airbag modules. This should not be a problem UNLESS one of these modules requires a special relearn or reprogramming procedure after power has been lost. In that case, the affected module may prevent the ABS or airbag systems from working.

It resets the Climate Control module. On some vehicles, the module will not start working again until a special relearn procedure or reprogram procedure is performed with a factory scan tool. That means no A/C until the module is programmed with the correct instructions.

It resets the Body Control Module (BCM). Like the Climate Control module, the BCM may not resume normal operation until it has undergone a special relearn procedure or is reprogrammed with a factory scan tool. This can mess up the operation of power accessories such as power windows, memory seats, power sunroof, or electronic suspension settings. Worse yet, the BCM is the "gate keeper" module on many 2003 and newer vehicles that have a CAN (Controller Area Network) system. If the BCM cannot communicate properly with all of the other modules, or it does not recognize the addresses of other modules, it can cause all kinds of problems.

It may reset or disable the anti-theft system. The engine may crank but not start because the anti-theft system thinks somebody is trying to steal the vehicle. Again, it may require a special relearn procedure or reprogramming the anti-theft system with a factory scan tool to resolve the problem.

Loss of power window and/or power sunroof position settings. Unless power is maintained to the vehicle's electrical system during battery replacement, the power windows and/or sunroof may not work properly until the position values have been reset using the vehicle manufacturers relearn procedure.

Loss of steering angle sensor settings. The steering angle sensor will have to undergo a relearn procedure following battery disconnect or replacement.

Replacing the battery on some vehicles requires entering the new battery info into the PCM with a scan tool (type of battery, battery serial number and CCA rating). This is necessary because the vehicle's charging system is programmed to gradually increase the charging rate as the battery ages. If the charging rate is not reset back to that for a new battery, the battery may overcharge and fail - or vent toxic hydrogen sulfide gas into the passenger compartment if the battery is located inside the vehicle.

It causes a loss of channel settings on an electronic radio and clock. This is more of an annoyance than a problem, and can be fixed by resetting the radio channels and the time.

WARNING: Regardless of the year, make or model of vehicle NEVER disconnect the battery while the engine is running or the ignition key is on. Doing so can create a high voltage spike in the electrical system that may damage electronic modules and/or the charging system.

How to Safely Disconnect or Replace Your Car Battery

If a battery has to be disconnected prior to doing electrical work on a vehicle (which is highly recommended to prevent an accidental short that might damage wiring or modules), or if an old or weak battery is being replaced, voltage MUST be maintained to the PCM and other modules while the battery is disconnected.

Voltage to the PCM and other modules can be provided by connecting a 12v backup power supply to the battery cables, using jumpers to attach another 12v battery to the battery cables, or plugging a small 9 volt battery Keep Alive Memory (KAM) saver into the cigarette lighter or a 12v power receptacle. NOTE: If using a plug-in battery memory saver, make sure the cigarette lighter or a power receptacle is always on and has power when the ignition key is off. A plug-in battery memory saver can be purchased at most auto parts stores, and usually sells for less than $20.

Why not use a battery charger to keep the memory alive? Some professional grade battery chargers have a built-in battery backup mode, and can be used for this purpose. But an ordinary home battery charger is designed to charge batteries, and not to serve as a battery backup. If the battery is disconnected, it may attempt to send too much charging current through the battery cables and damage a module. A low amperage trickle charger (1 to 3 amps) is less apt to overload the circuit than say a 10 or 20 amp charger, but it's still a risk. So unless the charger has a battery backup mode, or the charger manufacturer says it is okay to use their charger for this purpose, do not use an ordinary battery charger as a battery backup when disconnecting a car battery.

KEY-OFF Current Drain on Battery

The Keep Alive Memory chips in most modules require very little current to retain their settings, anywhere from a few milliamps up to 10 to 15 milliamps depending on the module. Normal current drain can vary from as little as 20 to 50 milliamps, to as much as 300 to 400 milliamps on some late model vehicles.

Many modules have internal timers that either turn off the module to put it into a "sleep mode," or power down the module to a "standby mode" to reduce the parasitic power drain after a predetermined length of time when the key is turned off or the vehicle's occupants leave the car. Some of these modules power down in steps and time out at different rates.

As a rule, the parasitic drain on most late model vehicles should be less than 50 milliamps one hour after the vehicle has been shut off and left undisturbed. But this is a rule of thumb only. Always refer to the vehicle manufacturer's key-off electrical drain specifications if available (some vehicle manufacturers have no published specifications).

Keep in mind, though, that opening a door, the trunk or turning anything on can wake up various modules and start the timer countdown all over again. So if you are using a little 9 volt alkaline battery backup for the Keep Alive memory while the battery is disconnected, keep the doors and trunk shut (so the lights don't come on) and work quickly so you don't drain the little backup battery. Professional technicians use a 12v backup battery power source that can provide a steady power source for as long as needed.

How to Install a Car battery

On late model vehicles that have an AGM battery mounted inside the passenger compartment or trunk, do NOT replace the AGM battery with a conventional wet cell lead-acid battery. Replace an AGM battery with an equivalent AGM battery.

Use a battery saver, 12-volt power supply or battery charger to maintain voltage to the vehicle's electrical system when disconnecting the battery or when replacing a battery. This will prevent all of the problems described earlier if power is lost when a battery is disconnected or replaced.

 

Just got a call from the service writer. It's definitely not the battery cable.. The car didn't start this morning and they did go thru all of the cable trouble shooting. They still haven't figured it out. He said it's setting off several different codes and they need to continue to test to get to the bottom of it. They have 2.5 hours in it.. They called to ask if they can put more time into it and of course I said yes since I have no other choice.. Hopefully will hear something tomorrow. He said what ever it is, the car is all over the place..

 

I guess that actually is a good thing.. They are now privy to the problem and you aren't crazy.. Electric gremlins could be a real PIA to find and costly... I hope they have a good tech on it he/she finds it soon so you can be driving again..


/joe

 

lol... Thanks... Yeah.. The first thing he said was I have an update on your possessed car lol.. He said he will have the best tech on it. I said good, because I don't have much more hours to put in this.. Updates hopefully soon..

 

I'm reminded of a quote from an old-timer on the tri-five website. If it's goofy it is [probably] a grounding problem.

Probably not so true in today's world but we're all waiting to see what the solution is. Thank you for keeping us informed. It could be us next.

 

Just received a call from the dealer.. Unbelievable.. The code is reading the radio. It is repeating internally and signaling to open as it does this, it's taking the power from other components of the car including the locks, windows, and push start. Bottom line, I need to replace the radio.. Wow.. They ordered a refurbished and it will be there tomorrow..

 

After talking to them, I have heard a constant humming sound like the lcd screen is opening, even when the car is off. This has been happening ever since I purchased the car 2 years ago.. I always thought that was odd but didn't know if it was normal in these cars and never bothered to ask. It would stop after about 10 mins. It obviously finally broke down.

 

Would be a good time to put a nice aftermarket head unit in...

 

It's funny you mention that, I actually asked if I picked up the unit would they put it in and they said no, it has to be factory because they don't want to guarantee aftermarket if it messes with the computer. If it wasn't for the fact the car won't start, I would jump on it but at this stage, it's dead, in the garage at a dealer, I don't have the time or energy to tow it back home, and take a chance but I did ask lol.. :-)

 

Are you saying the radio is draining the battery? Is that the only problem?

 

Yes....

 

Good luck tomorrow. Please update with the repair.

 

I have learned a lot by reading this thread/series of posts. I hope the radio replacement will absolutely and permanently solve the problem.