Jerry Rocha

Hey wassup I have a 2009 manual corvette with 57k miles and recently I've been having some starting issues. I just replaced the battery about 3-4 weeks ago a Duracell gold battery and didn't have any issues starting. Just this week I try turning it on and nothing starts. All the other electronics turn on like radio and gauges and no dimming. At first I thought about fuel pump, alternator, or starter. I checked the fuses and they were good . Any ideas? PS when I push start I hear a click but no response. Thanks in advance !

Jimmy W1

You first need to see that the battery cables and the battery posts are clean. Then you need to check the voltage. It sounds like you are going to have to charge the battery first. If the battery charges up, and the car starts, you need to check the battery voltage. If it won't start by charging the battery you may need to jump it.

There are several things that could be wrong- the battery could be bad, too. If you don't have the equipment to check the car out, you might want to get it to the dealer. Or someone who can.

By the way, the battery may be low and have just enough voltage to run the battery, gauges, etc., but not have enough voltage to start the car. Good luck.

Mad*Max

Did you press the bottom of the start button for a few seconds to put into ignition mode so that you can check the voltage of the battery? If yes, is it above 11.8v?

Garry in AZ

Jerry, there are several pontential issues that come to mind regarding your recent battery replacement and now, no-start woes.
First, when you installed the new battery, did you also check to make sure it was being charged properly when the car is running? While batteries do simply get old and tired and need replacing, it's also possible that the reason you needed a battery replacement was because it wasn't getting a proper charge, or there was an unusual draw on it.
Corvettes are notoriously finnicky when it comes to battery condition, and require a higher than normal amount of charge maintenance.
A new battery is still going to need a battery tender device to be connected, especially if you let the car sit longer than a week or two between drives. I recommend connecting one for any period longer than 3 days. And a full charge will need more than a few minutes of engine run time to accomplish. Some people seem to think that running the engine for 5 minutes is enough to fully charge a battery that's been sitting for a while, but it's not. In fact, very short trips can cause a battery to become discharged even faster than not starting the car at all. Another reason to use a battery tender anytime the car is parked for more than a few days.
It's less likely but still also possible, the new battery you bought is defective, but that can be easily tested after it has been properly charged.

I hope this helps.

Garry

lovinmyls1

With my '05 I found I have to peg the clutch pedal to the floor-get a little lazy, and just get a click. Just be aware.

WW7

Here's something no one has mentioned .. Sometimes the starter solenoid posts crack causing a no start condition.. This is a pretty common failure on the C6.. If none of the other suggestions work check the solenoid...WW

Jerry Rocha

It stays at about 11.5 and yes I tried it and nothing starts only the electronic stuff

Jerry Rocha

Thanks Garry, I actually drive it daily usually a 20 + min drive most of the time when I try turning it on I hear a clicking noise under the hood if that helps

Jerry Rocha

This had occurred to my mind because I hear a clicking noise under the hood when I try starting it

LMB-Z

If you replaced the battery 3-4 weeks ago, and did not put a trickle charger on it, the battery is probably too weak to start the car. All electronics will work, just not enough juice to start the car. Give the battery a good charging.

Welker1

Although you just replaced the battery, I would have it checked at your local auto parts store just to be sure. If it checks out and you're hearing a clicking sound, my next guess would be the starter. If the solenoid posts aren't cracked and you can remove it, it also can be tested at your local auto parts store (at least I know AutoZone can test them)

R_W

Agreed.
Some good info here:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...cal-issue.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-stranded.html

tennblkc6

not good.
have the battery fully charged a put a good tender (ctek) on it if not driving it for a week or more.

Mad*Max

11.5 is too low, I have experience with this as I have drained my battery a few times listening to the radio while detailing the car, it needs to be about 11.8 to start otherwise it won't turn.

Bruze

Basic troubleshooting for anything: Check the most obvious, most common problems first and rule them out, one by one.

Clicking while trying to start usually means there isn't enough current (not voltage) going to the solenoid. There may be enough current getting through to run accessories, but not enough to activate the solenoid.

Basic troubleshooting for clicking sound since we've had electric start vehicles:

1) As others have said above, be sure the battery is in good shape by having it load tested.

2) Be sure both ends of both battery cables are clean and tight and make sure the cables themselves are visibly in good shape.

If all that checks out then move on to the solenoid. Beyond that the electronics gurus will have to take over.

But as I've learned the hard way, the vast majority of electrical problems in cars are simple to fix. Diagnosing them is the trick.

Jerry Rocha

Thank you! How could I clean the battery cables with?

WW7

I use a wire brush on mine, you have to remove the cables and re-index the windows afterwards...WW

car-guy28

This happened to my ‘05 manual roadster, no crank and no start. I had a check engine light with a P0335 code. I put in a new battery and new crankshaft position sensor with no help. After days of diagnostic checking I swapped the crank relay with the rear defog relay and it started right up. The rear defog light on the switch then wouldn’t light so I knew it was a bad relay. Easy fix but what a pita. Relays are # 40 and 43 in the under hood fuse box in front of the battery. Check engine light went out and all working fine now.

68/70Vette

My 1995 Cadillac Seville has a voltmeter reading.....OK, it's not a Corvette, but it is a lead acid battery. After sitting days, the battery drains because of the fob receiver in the car. As someone mentioned in an earlier post, 11.8 v DC is about the lowest voltage to get a reliable starter actuation....and at 11.8 v DC the engine needs to start promptly because 11.8 v DC is about the last hurrah for a battery. After starting, from a pre-start battery voltage of 11.8 v DC, the battery voltage will jump to 14.4 v DC as the alternator starts charging the battery. As the battery charges, the battery voltage will drop. For a fully charged battery, you need to see a battery voltage of 13.3 v DC with the alternator charging the battery. Depending upon engine rpm, it takes about 10 to 15 minutes to fully charge a battery....actually, I'd lean a little closer to 15 minutes than 10 minutes. Charging the battery, I've seen the voltage to drop to 13.2 v DC with the alternator still supplying charging current.. Now turn off the engine. The instantaneous battery voltage after turning off the engine is not useful. Wait maybe 20 minutes or so. A fully charged lead acid battery willl read 12.6/12.5 v DC.

Also, my experience and what I've read. Take a new fresh lead acid battery, fully charge it, and then discharge it to 0 volts. When you recharge the battery. it will have lost about 1/3 of its capacity. Fully discharging a lead acid battey damages the battery....my understanding that the 1/3 loss of capacity is permanent. Also, when a lead acid battey is discharged to 0 volts, some more expensive battery chargers may not charge the battery if it's at 0 volts! The charging logic in the charger will interpret 0 volts as an open circuit and therefore do nothing! If this is the case, you may have to parallel your dead battery with a good battery to give it a little bit of a charge, connect the charger, and then disconnect the good battery to allow the bad battery to charge.

I worked for many years at a satelllite ground station. The satellites we were working with had Nickle Cadmium batteries. They behave far different than lead acids. In normal usage, the NiCads tend to lose capacity..not due so much to wear out but due to harmful crystalline growth characteristics on the plates. To rejuvenate them. it's nescessary to discharge them to 0 volts periodically. Then recharge them and their capacity is really restored. Interesting, when NiCad batteries are recharging, they actually cool. They are endo thermic during recharge. Anyhow, why do I mention this? Unfortunately someone working at the ground station heard this and decided if discharging satellite batteries was really good for them, he would discharge his lead acid car batteries to 0 also. He found out this was not a good idea

Rocketmanwpb

I'm on my fourth starter. 08 vert with 143K. Replaced the first two at the dealer because when I had the first one installed they put in a rebuilt starter because new OEM starters are not available. THe dealer provides a lifetime warranty on the part but you still have to pay labor. On the last one I got a NAPA rebuild which also has a lifetime warranty and put it in myself. One of the easiest jobs I have done.