Added Longer Rear Wheel Studs and Lowered on Stock Bolts
04-07-2017, 11:54 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Added Longer Rear Wheel Studs and Lowered on Stock Bolts
Bought me a C6 recently. In the past I had me a badass 04 Z06. I wrecked the '04 years ago and decided to get back on the vette scene.
You know, "the vette makes 'em wet." Eh, whatever.
Car already had borla long tubes and Corsa sport. I just purchased a set of gloss black grand sport replicas 18x9.5 with 265/35 and 19x10 with 305/30 Continental DW's. I know, I keep hearing how so many feel the GS wheels are ugly; however, they are badass to me! Thanks Bobs House of Wheels for the amazing price of 640 shipped!
Fronts were exactly flush but rears needed help. I bought a set of hubcentric 12mm spacers. Today I embarked on the subject-lined project.
Jegs has their own brand name high tensile studs for $14.99/set 5; I bought those.
Not knowing how things are assembled I broke the wire connection for the ABS reluctor. Lesson learned. Bought a new wheel hub assembly. I also cut one band on the lowering bolt (to remove the lowering bolt, yes you need to disconnect the lower ball joint and remove the shock then use bottle jack to raise the leaf- unthreads with extreme ease). For all the threads I've read, to install longer rear studs, you must have lower ball joint disconnected, caliper/rotor removed, I had shock out anyway so was easy to manipulate the T-55 socket. No Place to drill and avoid all these steps.
Mine is an 05, so the hub nut is a 33mm. It was frozen on. Instead of trying to force it off with a breaker bar, and fear damaging the nut, I used the following: soak the axle in PB blaster, using some map gas, I heated the nut real good then applied the socket using my impact gun. It will not come off right away. Keep cycling heat and the impact. No need to rush; apply heat, then hold the impact in use to the nut. I think I cycled this process 4-5x and it eventually broke free. The vibrations from the impact provides 10x more effective release than killing your body with a breaker bar and chance damaging the nut.
The T-55 bolts were also hard to break free. I have no ease of advice for those. Get you an assortment of extension bars so you can get the correct distance for your bodies liking.
When manipulating the new lug nuts into the hub, be careful of the ABS electrical connector! You should have been able to knock the studs free with a hammer prior to removing the T-55 bolts free. You will be able to manipulate the hub free enough so you can remove the old studs and slide the newbs in from the backside. Once you have the T-55's retightened, if you dont have a deep 33mm impact socket, place about 10-12 washers over the stud and use an open ended 12x1.5 lug nut and use your impact to draw the studs into place.
I'll be done with the passenger side in the morning. I'll post pics of how the ride height and wheels are spaced.
This should help those with questions for the following:
Base C6; silver
18x9.5 wheels with 56mm offset
265/35/18 tires
19x10 wheels with 79mm offset
305/30/19 tires
12mm hub centric spacer (EBay item 201413717975)
Jegs wheel stud part# 555- 65130 studs
I cut only one section off the stock bolts. If I don't like the look, I'm buying the new bolts.
I'll post some photos later today.
You know, "the vette makes 'em wet." Eh, whatever.
Car already had borla long tubes and Corsa sport. I just purchased a set of gloss black grand sport replicas 18x9.5 with 265/35 and 19x10 with 305/30 Continental DW's. I know, I keep hearing how so many feel the GS wheels are ugly; however, they are badass to me! Thanks Bobs House of Wheels for the amazing price of 640 shipped!
Fronts were exactly flush but rears needed help. I bought a set of hubcentric 12mm spacers. Today I embarked on the subject-lined project.
Jegs has their own brand name high tensile studs for $14.99/set 5; I bought those.
Not knowing how things are assembled I broke the wire connection for the ABS reluctor. Lesson learned. Bought a new wheel hub assembly. I also cut one band on the lowering bolt (to remove the lowering bolt, yes you need to disconnect the lower ball joint and remove the shock then use bottle jack to raise the leaf- unthreads with extreme ease). For all the threads I've read, to install longer rear studs, you must have lower ball joint disconnected, caliper/rotor removed, I had shock out anyway so was easy to manipulate the T-55 socket. No Place to drill and avoid all these steps.
Mine is an 05, so the hub nut is a 33mm. It was frozen on. Instead of trying to force it off with a breaker bar, and fear damaging the nut, I used the following: soak the axle in PB blaster, using some map gas, I heated the nut real good then applied the socket using my impact gun. It will not come off right away. Keep cycling heat and the impact. No need to rush; apply heat, then hold the impact in use to the nut. I think I cycled this process 4-5x and it eventually broke free. The vibrations from the impact provides 10x more effective release than killing your body with a breaker bar and chance damaging the nut.
The T-55 bolts were also hard to break free. I have no ease of advice for those. Get you an assortment of extension bars so you can get the correct distance for your bodies liking.
When manipulating the new lug nuts into the hub, be careful of the ABS electrical connector! You should have been able to knock the studs free with a hammer prior to removing the T-55 bolts free. You will be able to manipulate the hub free enough so you can remove the old studs and slide the newbs in from the backside. Once you have the T-55's retightened, if you dont have a deep 33mm impact socket, place about 10-12 washers over the stud and use an open ended 12x1.5 lug nut and use your impact to draw the studs into place.
I'll be done with the passenger side in the morning. I'll post pics of how the ride height and wheels are spaced.
This should help those with questions for the following:
Base C6; silver
18x9.5 wheels with 56mm offset
265/35/18 tires
19x10 wheels with 79mm offset
305/30/19 tires
12mm hub centric spacer (EBay item 201413717975)
Jegs wheel stud part# 555- 65130 studs
I cut only one section off the stock bolts. If I don't like the look, I'm buying the new bolts.
I'll post some photos later today.
Last edited by jamesge; 04-09-2017 at 06:34 PM. Reason: Photos added
04-09-2017, 06:36 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Bought me a C6 recently. In the past I had me a badass 04 Z06. I wrecked the '04 years ago and decided to get back on the vette scene.
You know, "the vette makes 'em wet." Eh, whatever.
Car already had borla long tubes and Corsa sport. I just purchased a set of gloss black grand sport replicas 18x9.5 with 265/35 and 19x10 with 305/30 Continental DW's. I know, I keep hearing how so many feel the GS wheels are ugly; however, they are badass to me! Thanks Bobs House of Wheels for the amazing price of 640 shipped!
Fronts were exactly flush but rears needed help. I bought a set of hubcentric 12mm spacers. Today I embarked on the subject-lined project.
Jegs has their own brand name high tensile studs for $14.99/set 5; I bought those.
Not knowing how things are assembled I broke the wire connection for the ABS reluctor. Lesson learned. Bought a new wheel hub assembly. I also cut one band on the lowering bolt (to remove the lowering bolt, yes you need to disconnect the lower ball joint and remove the shock then use bottle jack to raise the leaf- unthreads with extreme ease). For all the threads I've read, to install longer rear studs, you must have lower ball joint disconnected, caliper/rotor removed, I had shock out anyway so was easy to manipulate the T-55 socket. No Place to drill and avoid all these steps.
Mine is an 05, so the hub nut is a 33mm. It was frozen on. Instead of trying to force it off with a breaker bar, and fear damaging the nut, I used the following: soak the axle in PB blaster, using some map gas, I heated the nut real good then applied the socket using my impact gun. It will not come off right away. Keep cycling heat and the impact. No need to rush; apply heat, then hold the impact in use to the nut. I think I cycled this process 4-5x and it eventually broke free. The vibrations from the impact provides 10x more effective release than killing your body with a breaker bar and chance damaging the nut.
The T-55 bolts were also hard to break free. I have no ease of advice for those. Get you an assortment of extension bars so you can get the correct distance for your bodies liking.
When manipulating the new lug nuts into the hub, be careful of the ABS electrical connector! You should have been able to knock the studs free with a hammer prior to removing the T-55 bolts free. You will be able to manipulate the hub free enough so you can remove the old studs and slide the newbs in from the backside. Once you have the T-55's retightened, if you dont have a deep 33mm impact socket, place about 10-12 washers over the stud and use an open ended 12x1.5 lug nut and use your impact to draw the studs into place.
I'll be done with the passenger side in the morning. I'll post pics of how the ride height and wheels are spaced.
This should help those with questions for the following:
Base C6; silver
18x9.5 wheels with 56mm offset
265/35/18 tires
19x10 wheels with 79mm offset
305/30/19 tires
12mm hub centric spacer (EBay item 201413717975)
Jegs wheel stud part# 555- 65130 studs
I cut only one section off the stock bolts. If I don't like the look, I'm buying the new bolts.
I'll post some photos later today.
You know, "the vette makes 'em wet." Eh, whatever.
Car already had borla long tubes and Corsa sport. I just purchased a set of gloss black grand sport replicas 18x9.5 with 265/35 and 19x10 with 305/30 Continental DW's. I know, I keep hearing how so many feel the GS wheels are ugly; however, they are badass to me! Thanks Bobs House of Wheels for the amazing price of 640 shipped!
Fronts were exactly flush but rears needed help. I bought a set of hubcentric 12mm spacers. Today I embarked on the subject-lined project.
Jegs has their own brand name high tensile studs for $14.99/set 5; I bought those.
Not knowing how things are assembled I broke the wire connection for the ABS reluctor. Lesson learned. Bought a new wheel hub assembly. I also cut one band on the lowering bolt (to remove the lowering bolt, yes you need to disconnect the lower ball joint and remove the shock then use bottle jack to raise the leaf- unthreads with extreme ease). For all the threads I've read, to install longer rear studs, you must have lower ball joint disconnected, caliper/rotor removed, I had shock out anyway so was easy to manipulate the T-55 socket. No Place to drill and avoid all these steps.
Mine is an 05, so the hub nut is a 33mm. It was frozen on. Instead of trying to force it off with a breaker bar, and fear damaging the nut, I used the following: soak the axle in PB blaster, using some map gas, I heated the nut real good then applied the socket using my impact gun. It will not come off right away. Keep cycling heat and the impact. No need to rush; apply heat, then hold the impact in use to the nut. I think I cycled this process 4-5x and it eventually broke free. The vibrations from the impact provides 10x more effective release than killing your body with a breaker bar and chance damaging the nut.
The T-55 bolts were also hard to break free. I have no ease of advice for those. Get you an assortment of extension bars so you can get the correct distance for your bodies liking.
When manipulating the new lug nuts into the hub, be careful of the ABS electrical connector! You should have been able to knock the studs free with a hammer prior to removing the T-55 bolts free. You will be able to manipulate the hub free enough so you can remove the old studs and slide the newbs in from the backside. Once you have the T-55's retightened, if you dont have a deep 33mm impact socket, place about 10-12 washers over the stud and use an open ended 12x1.5 lug nut and use your impact to draw the studs into place.
I'll be done with the passenger side in the morning. I'll post pics of how the ride height and wheels are spaced.
This should help those with questions for the following:
Base C6; silver
18x9.5 wheels with 56mm offset
265/35/18 tires
19x10 wheels with 79mm offset
305/30/19 tires
12mm hub centric spacer (EBay item 201413717975)
Jegs wheel stud part# 555- 65130 studs
I cut only one section off the stock bolts. If I don't like the look, I'm buying the new bolts.
I'll post some photos later today.
04-09-2017, 08:00 PM
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2006
Posts: 22,997
Received 2,886 Likes
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1,909 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Word of caution...axle nuts are one time use only. GM says to replace them every time and use red loctite.
Looks good.
Looks good.
04-09-2017, 09:44 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
04-09-2017, 09:52 PM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
The following users liked this post:
Brandon619 (04-09-2017)
04-09-2017, 09:58 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
Looks good, I've considered blacking out my roof and halo.