cmmeadows

I hate to add another thread about harmonic balancers but I wanted to run my plans by everyone to see if I’m missing something. Also, I am hopeful that this thread will be of help to others with the same problem by compiling all info into one thread. I have read many of the previous threads which were helpful.

My problem: 2011 Grand Sport A6 - Belt chirp shortly after start up that is quite loud, especially as the RPMs go up. After the car is up to temp, it takes about 5 more minutes and the chirp almost disappears. Harmonic Balancer has some wobble. I tried to upload a video but it won't work.

1st solution: Try Belt Conditioner….that made it much worse! So I replaced the belts with Continental Elite Poly-V Belts 4040410 and Continental Elite Poly-V Belts 4060798 (formerly Gatorbacks). Took care of the chirp for about 100 miles. It has now come back. Harmonic Balancer still wobbles the same.

2nd solution: This is my plan: Replace the Harmonic Balancer and the belts. From my research ATI and Powerbond both are good replacements and OEM from the dealer would give me the same problem down the road. ATI (ATI Super Damper Serpentine Series Harmonic Balancers 917266) = $399.97 and Powerbond (PowerBond Premium OEM Replacement Harmonic Balancers PB1117N) = $73.97. I believe these are the correct part numbers for my vehicle. Please correct me if wrong. I will use the same belts I ordered before (see above).

I have no plans to increase power, race, or anything of the sort so I was not interested in getting something to upgrade. I simply want to drive my car without the chirp. So with that kind of price difference I am going with Powerbond. My research has also found that I need to buy the ARP Crank Bolt (Harmonic Damper Bolt Kit - 234-2503). I would also like to replace the seal since I’m already this far into the engine. However, I cannot find exactly what seal/part number I need. I’m relying on you, Corvetteforum Community, to help me out.

Anything I am missing or incorrect on? I can’t tell you how helpful this forum has been, which is why I wanted all the experts to review my plan before doing this. Thanks everyone!

C6ToGo

Powerbond PB1117N is closer to the OEM replacement which is why it is so much cheaper than the ATI. Their PB1117SS is closer to the ATI sfi-rated balancer.

See if any of this helps. It is info I have for when I do mine. I got the PB1117N.

BALANCER SWAP:
Need: balancer, seal (12585673, 296-02, nat/timken 100470 $11), PS fluid, ATI balancer 917246?
flexplate lock tool if automatic ($25 Ebay), balancer installer (16mm stud $15 eBay), LOANER: Advance Auto balancer kit (has Chrysler puller and installer with bearing and carnk point protector)
new crank bolt, new tensioners, new belts, LOANER: 250LB torque wrench. Google "A&A supercharger instructions" for pics.
lock steering wheel with a strap to the brake pedal, easier to remove rack lines if you pull PS pump loose
disconnect battery, remove sway bar, remove tie rods (jack under for pressure if shafts turn), remove starter (loosen cat or manifold to get to drop out, install flexplate lock
maybe lower cradle about 1/2" to help get lines loose (4 bolts), but may not need to if only pushing rack over partially, scribe balancer location

remove abs bracket bolts ( and other two if needed to remove racket from car...dont lose and notice ther are "flats on verticle" on bolts for reassembly) and push out of way to get to 2 18mm lines, zip tie baggies to hold fluid,
CAREFUL unplugging rack connector, remove bolt on steering gear and remove from rack (11mm?), pry rack from mounts (notice washer sequence), roll rack out to passenger side enough to get to balancer
maybe slightly spread frame brackets with bolts and washers for easier reassembly (CAREFUL - ALUMINUM),
heat or torch to break RTV from crann bolt. Loosen with long cheater bar, Chrysler puller protecting end of crank, replace seal
boil crank 20 min and quickly put on with threaded installer, tighten with old bolt 240 LB then with new bolt. Grease bolts and washers on install

sequence rack washers with grease on reinstall into frame brackets, use pin punch to line it all up, CAREFUL with rack plug-tiny pins
After installing with tool and tighteneing with old bolt and removing, heat new bolt with heat gun and install red loctite on 1/2 half of threads before installing.
BOLT TIGHTENING: tighten to 240LB with old bolt (SEE NOTE BELOW) , threadlocker (272 Locktite?)on new bolt and tighten to 37Ft LB, mark bolt 12 oclock to 6 ocllock with line.
tighten bolt second time to get 140 degree angle, RESEARCH IT.
Important NOTE: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.

someones writeup:
Having owned my 2005 C6 (with 54,500 miles) since last November I have been watching the HB with a slight wobble. No chirping of the belts (or anything else), but I decided to replace it before it got worse. Tackled it Sunday for a few hours and finished it Monday afternoon. Using a friends lift made it much easier too.

Special tools
Flywheel locking tool (for A4 auto)
Chrysler HB puller from AutoZone
LS2 HB install tool

Parts
Powerbond HB (my choice)
ARP HB Bolt
Front crank seal
Catayltic converter flange seal
Exhaust pipe donut seal
New Accessory drive & AC belts

First remove the passenger side catalytic converter & remove starter, install flywheel locking tool (you will need this to torque the HB bolt).

Pull the wheels, disconnect intermediate steering shaft, disconnect fluid lines to steering gear, remove accessory & AC drive belts, disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles, remove bolts to ABS module and push module up, remove driver's side brake line bracket and move aside, remove bolts from plastic brackets on front transmission lines (mine does not have a tranny cooler), remove front engine cradle nuts and loosen rear nuts, pry front of engine cradle down about 1" and insert a shim to keep it in place, remove 2 steering rack bolts, work the steering rack out the driver's side gently pushing brake lines out of the way (it is very close but will come out), remove HB with Chrysler puller (it is very heavy duty and low profile), remove front crankshaft seal & tap new seal in place, mount new HB and pull in place with the installation tool, lubricate & install new ARP bolt & torque to 230 lb. ft.

Note: I do not recommend using the original bolt to pull the new HB in place as there are not enough threads to keep from damaging the crankshaft threads.

Reverse the process and reinstall everything and you are good to go.

schizcat

Get the PB1117SS. The PB1117N is basically an OEM replacement.

Its not a hard process to replace, just take your time and follow instructions on here. There are a bunch of tips and write ups.

65GGvert

Have you tried any diagnostics to see if it's one of the belt tensioner bearings?

cmmeadows

Would putting on the PB1117N result in the same failures as the OEM one? What is the manufacturer of the original HB that came with the car from the factory?

cmmeadows

Here is a link to the video of my Harmonic Balancer. It's not the greatest video, but you should be able to see slight wobble in the HB.

cmmeadows

I have used a stethoscope to try and isolate the issue, as well as spinning the pulleys by hand when the belts were off. Nothing pointed me in a certain direction. From what I've read here it seems those with a HB issue had the same symptoms as me.

glass slipper

After replacing the harmonic balancer and several other items that didn't fix the "chirping on start up", I went with the next size shorter belt on my daughter's C5 and the chirping never came back. I did the same thing to many other C5s with the same results...could save a lot of money and time.

65GGvert

I don't see that wobble causing a chirp. I am no way an expert on harmonic balancers, but I've never seen one that didn't wobble a little. Could someone post a video or theirs with no wobble?

cb1980

following as this is on my to do list, no noises yet but wobble is there and with the fact I like to go to the track, I don't feel comfortable having a wobbling balancer when the car is doing 100+ mph

Cherokee Nation

Your balancer looks like it is turning very true..(No Wobble)..I had a noise on start up and shut down on my 08 so i put on a Goodyear gatorback belt around 3 years and not a noise since....Good Luck

Turbo6TA

Here is what you need for your 2011 GS ...

Dayco 'PowerBond' Race Performance Harmonic Balancer
P/N: PB1117SS
$ 189.99 + $ 18.82 Shipping = $ 208.81

https://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-14...-pb1117ss.aspx