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I have experienced this "stuck in park" problem as well and it was getting harder and harder to "coax" the shifter out of park so I did some testing of my own.
I decided to remove the switches and bench test them and found that the switch(es) are not out of adjustment or alignment but actually going bad. Micro switches are supposed to be either open or closed and nothing in between but an ohm meter verified that the switch (in certain positions) has resistance and therefore would not actuate the solenoid that pulls the release.
I think the OP's fix will work for a while (I even contemplated something similar) until the micro switch goes completely bad so I elected to replace the micro switches and after I did, the shifter has worked like new. I used some $3 micro switches and simply soldered them onto the existing wires and snapped them in (they are standard size). The original switched are cheap pieces of junk!
This was really a test for me to see if in fact the switch was causing the issue and time will tell how long these cheap replacement switches last. If they begin to fail, I will order some higher quality switches for a more permanent fix but so far it has been flawless for 6 months.
Thanks for posting that info. I wondered if the switches themselves were going bad, possibly due to burned internal contacts or just wear. It sounds like this may be what is going on. I'll keep an eye on mine and if they act up again, I'll replace them like you did.
Well with this scenario (switch going bad), it seems as though it doesn't really matter what the fix is......pad shifter to contact switch....or replace switch...either way some of the autos are destined to have some kind of work done to keep from getting stuck in park....still sounds like the tie back method may be best even with it's short comings.....
I contemplated the tie back but I kind of ended up doing both. I decided to replace the switches to see if that solves the problem and how long it will last and so far, so good.
I like the park lock so disabling it altogether with the tie back method was not appealing to me so along with the new switches, I did a "on-demand" tie back and placed a hidden lock release that I can get to in case the switches fail again. This way it works as intended and gives me a secret bypass if I ever get stuck in the drive through again with people staring at me wondering why my 400+ HP car won't move (yes, it has happened to me)
Thanks for posting that info. I wondered if the switches themselves were going bad, possibly due to burned internal contacts or just wear. It sounds like this may be what is going on. I'll keep an eye on mine and if they act up again, I'll replace them like you did.
You are very welcome. What my testing revealed was even though the switch "clicked" onto the closed position, the switch was not fully closed (0 ohms), nor was it open. It read about 1500 ohms and the BCM must not like that so it doesn't pull the solenoid. Once I pressed the switch a little more, it would then close completely. That is the reason your padding works but don't be surprised if it stops working when the switch wears out some more.
BTW, the wiring diagram you posted (I have one just like it) is wrong! The wire colors are not correct and it is missing the second switch. The diagram really threw me off when I first started diagnosing this so I had to wing it.
I contemplated the tie back but I kind of ended up doing both. I decided to replace the switches to see if that solves the problem and how long it will last and so far, so good.
I like the park lock so disabling it altogether with the tie back method was not appealing to me so along with the new switches, I did a "on-demand" tie back and placed a hidden lock release that I can get to in case the switches fail again. This way it works as intended and gives me a secret bypass if I ever get stuck in the drive through again with people staring at me wondering why my 400+ HP car won't move (yes, it has happened to me)
I agree with you, I like the park lock function. I tied some high strength fishing line to the lock pawl and ran it into the console, so if it ever fails I can manually release it by pulling on the line.
I have experienced this "stuck in park" problem as well and it was getting harder and harder to "coax" the shifter out of park so I did some testing of my own.
I decided to remove the switches and bench test them and found that the switch(es) are not out of adjustment or alignment but actually going bad. Micro switches are supposed to be either open or closed and nothing in between but an ohm meter verified that the switch (in certain positions) has resistance and therefore would not actuate the solenoid that pulls the release.
I think the OP's fix will work for a while (I even contemplated something similar) until the micro switch goes completely bad so I elected to replace the micro switches and after I did, the shifter has worked like new. I used some $3 micro switches and simply soldered them onto the existing wires and snapped them in (they are standard size). The original switched are cheap pieces of junk!
This was really a test for me to see if in fact the switch was causing the issue and time will tell how long these cheap replacement switches last. If they begin to fail, I will order some higher quality switches for a more permanent fix but so far it has been flawless for 6 months.
I agree. I never believed in the solenoid going bad scenario! I am an
industrial electrician and when working with ultra low voltages
like 12 volts, all you need is a slight resistance in the circuit switches
for the solenoid not to operate. I have seen it time and time again in
work situations.
You are very welcome. What my testing revealed was even though the switch "clicked" onto the closed position, the switch was not fully closed (0 ohms), nor was it open. It read about 1500 ohms and the BCM must not like that so it doesn't pull the solenoid. Once I pressed the switch a little more, it would then close completely. That is the reason your padding works but don't be surprised if it stops working when the switch wears out some more.
BTW, the wiring diagram you posted (I have one just like it) is wrong! The wire colors are not correct and it is missing the second switch. The diagram really threw me off when I first started diagnosing this so I had to wing it.
Actually, you could sparay them out with contact cleaner and operate them a few times and they would probably come ok. But, if you have access to new ones easily and cheap enough, why bother!
I contemplated the tie back but I kind of ended up doing both. I decided to replace the switches to see if that solves the problem and how long it will last and so far, so good.
I like the park lock so disabling it altogether with the tie back method was not appealing to me so along with the new switches, I did a "on-demand" tie back and placed a hidden lock release that I can get to in case the switches fail again. This way it works as intended and gives me a secret bypass if I ever get stuck in the drive through again with people staring at me wondering why my 400+ HP car won't move (yes, it has happened to me)
Yea....understood. I also often wonder about any legal problems that could arise if you ever sold your car to another party. Should you tell them about the issue and that the car will come out of park without pressing brake....etc...etc. If you tell a potential buyer then you throw up a red flag. If you don't tell them and then something bad happens.....who knows......interesting to say the least.....
I agree. I never believed in the solenoid going bad scenario! I am an
industrial electrician and when working with ultra low voltages
like 12 volts, all you need is a slight resistance in the circuit switches
for the solenoid not to operate. I have seen it time and time again in
work situations.
Since you are a professional, I would like your opinion...
The switches that GM used are the lowest end available and not the same switch, they used different contact material. The switch that is used for the "Place your car in park" warning is "Gold alloy on silver palladium crosspoint" and the one used for the "Park Lockout" is "Plain Silver" and neither are rated except for "Automotive Standard" (whatever that means). There are much better (albeit more expensive) switches that should have been used and I am trying to source some better ones. Which type of contact would be better for this purpose?
1) Fine silver
2) Gold plate on silver
3) Gold alloy on silver palladium crosspoint
Thank you to all of the above for your informed and hands-on knowledge. However, I still don't know what I have to do to access the mechanism. Can someone outline for an eager but largely ignorant mechanic like myself how to remove the shifter cover to get access to the innards? Pictures would be nice. Also someone mentions replacement switches - do you have a source? Part #'s? And where might one find the "proper" wiring diagram? I feel confident that you all have properly diagnosed the problem, I just need a little help here. Thank you for your support. (2007 A6).
Thank you to all of the above for your informed and hands-on knowledge. However, I still don't know what I have to do to access the mechanism. Can someone outline for an eager but largely ignorant mechanic like myself how to remove the shifter cover to get access to the innards? Pictures would be nice. Also someone mentions replacement switches - do you have a source? Part #'s? And where might one find the "proper" wiring diagram? I feel confident that you all have properly diagnosed the problem, I just need a little help here. Thank you for your support. (2007 A6).
Search the forums, there are several how-to on removing the center console. Or Google, there are even some YouTube videos that will help.
I don't think they are any better quality than the originals and might even be worse for all I know but that wouldn't be likely because the stock switches are the bottom end as far as quality goes. I am going to try to source some better switches as soon as I find out what the best contact material is for this application.
I have never seen a correct/complete wiring diagram, I suspect that there is another one somewhere because one of the switches "talks" to the BCM and has to do with telling you on the DIC that you are not in Park. All I know is that there is a lot more wire and components on the shifter than what is shown on the available diagram and the wire colors are wrong. Anyway, the diagram was unnecessary for me. It was obvious in my car that the switch was going bad and that is all I needed to know.
I did the "tie back" method, but I didn't really tie it back. I tied a tether to the pawl, and loop, which I have access to in the center console, so it still works as designed, but can be pulled back when needed.
Since you are a professional, I would like your opinion...
The switches that GM used are the lowest end available and not the same switch, they used different contact material. The switch that is used for the "Place your car in park" warning is "Gold alloy on silver palladium crosspoint" and the one used for the "Park Lockout" is "Plain Silver" and neither are rated except for "Automotive Standard" (whatever that means). There are much better (albeit more expensive) switches that should have been used and I am trying to source some better ones. Which type of contact would be better for this purpose?
1) Fine silver
2) Gold plate on silver
3) Gold alloy on silver palladium crosspoint
Thanks!
Hi,
Experienced and knowledgeable. Yes! Professional I am not so sure.
The silver on silver contact is all I would use. Is this correct? I cannot say. The silver contacts is mostly used in my industry. ie higher alternating currents 240, 110 volts AC. Also, that is all that is used
in our 24 and 48 volts Direct current circuits. And yes, DC is much harder on
relay and micro switch contacts for burning them out then AC is. But this depends on the load. ie current flowing in that circuit. Without seeing the actual
circuit diagram I cannot tell how hard this current affects these micro switches. Normally, a micro switch is just for feedback to say I am operated or not operated and therefore very low current.
This is what I suspect this micro switch does. And if this correct, the
quality of the mechanical mechanism is more important than the material of the contacts. The real load should be on a relay that energises the solenoid. Remember, with these micro switches, they probably wear out mechanically before the contacts burn out.
So, I say just change them for the best Quality make you can buy! Also, remember, there are probably other micro switches in this circuit too. Like the brake pedal. High resistance there could also give you problems
Hi,
Experienced and knowledgeable. Yes! Professional I am not so sure.
The silver on silver contact is all I would use. Is this correct? I cannot say. The silver contacts is mostly used in my industry. ie higher alternating currents 240, 110 volts AC. Also, that is all that is used
in our 24 and 48 volts Direct current circuits. And yes, DC is much harder on
relay and micro switch contacts for burning them out then AC is. But this depends on the load. ie current flowing in that circuit. Without seeing the actual
circuit diagram I cannot tell how hard this current affects these micro switches. Normally, a micro switch is just for feedback to say I am operated or not operated and therefore very low current.
This is what I suspect this micro switch does. And if this correct, the
quality of the mechanical mechanism is more important than the material of the contacts. The real load should be on a relay that energises the solenoid. Remember, with these micro switches, they probably wear out mechanically before the contacts burn out.
So, I say just change them for the best Quality make you can buy! Also, remember, there are probably other micro switches in this circuit too. Like the brake pedal. High resistance there could also give you problems
Also, Automotive standard just means ultra low voltage.. ie 12 volts up to 24 volts or maybe even 48. Not to be used for higher voltages because the switch insulation quality is not up to spec.
I don't think they are any better quality than the originals and might even be worse for all I know but that wouldn't be likely because the stock switches are the bottom end as far as quality goes. I am going to try to source some better switches as soon as I find out what the best contact material is for this application.
I have never seen a correct/complete wiring diagram, I suspect that there is another one somewhere because one of the switches "talks" to the BCM and has to do with telling you on the DIC that you are not in Park. All I know is that there is a lot more wire and components on the shifter than what is shown on the available diagram and the wire colors are wrong. Anyway, the diagram was unnecessary for me. It was obvious in my car that the switch was going bad and that is all I needed to know.
YouTube helped, but it was a 2005 A4 that I saw. I've got the concept now. The hidden release and switch replacement looks like a fail-safe solution.
Thanks for the Root answer to why the shifter is sticking. We know it is sticking, now we know why and can address the real cause and fix. Always thought there was a reason for it sticking but not having been there the easy answer seemed to make sense to correct the immediate problem, sticking, but your research shows the real problem not just the perceived one. If that makes sense.
Just push the shift lever forward a little before pressingon the brake
Nice work. Now I understand why sometimes I need to push the shift lever forward before pressing on the brake pedal in order to shift out of park. I've been doing this for many years now without really thinking about it. It doesn't happen very often but when it does this has always worked for me.
Thanks for the tip CSix. I modified mine this weekend. I did not have to remove the center console - I just pulled the boot out and accessed the switch after moving the shifter into drive. Works perfect now!
06-24-2017, 05:49 PM
