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I'd like to know why this problem was never made into a recall? I mean seriously, it's so bad there are numerous threads and it's EVEN in the owner's manual, so they knew the problem when they made them. We should be able to go to a dealer and have it fixed for free. Anyone know what a dealer charges for the fix? Thanks.
Rick: What page in the owner's manual i have an 08?..It is not a safety issue,so no recall.
"Shifting Out of Park (P)
(Automatic Transmission)
Your vehicle has an automatic transmission shift lock control system which locks the shift lever in PARK (P) when the ignition is off. In addition, you have to fully apply your regular brake before you can shift from PARK (P) when the ignition is on. See Automatic Transmission Operation on page 2-24.
If you cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease pressure on the shift lever and push the shift lever all the way
into PARK (P) and release the shift lever button as you maintain brake application. Then press the shift lever button and move the shift lever into the gear you wish.
If you ever hold the brake pedal down but still cannot shift out of PARK (P), try this:
1. Put the vehicle in accessory mode.
2. Apply and hold the brake until the end of Step 4.
3. Shift to NEUTRAL (N).
4. Start the engine and then shift to the drive gear you want.
5. Have your vehicle inspected by your dealer as soon as possible."
I agree that it's not a "safety issue" like the airbag issue is (which is not covered for cars older than 10 years--shame on GM), but still, for them to produce a product which had known issues before the initial release and not be corrected for the entire almost decade of the production run is sad, to say the least.
Most C6 owners don't frequent this forum, and so don't know there are ways to fix this easily, so they bring them into the dealer at big bucks.
"Shifting Out of Park (P)
(Automatic Transmission)
Your vehicle has an automatic transmission shift lock control system which locks the shift lever in PARK (P) when the ignition is off. In addition, you have to fully apply your regular brake before you can shift from PARK (P) when the ignition is on. See Automatic Transmission Operation on page 2-24.
If you cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease pressure on the shift lever and push the shift lever all the way
into PARK (P) and release the shift lever button as you maintain brake application. Then press the shift lever button and move the shift lever into the gear you wish.
If you ever hold the brake pedal down but still cannot shift out of PARK (P), try this:
1. Put the vehicle in accessory mode.
2. Apply and hold the brake until the end of Step 4.
3. Shift to NEUTRAL (N).
4. Start the engine and then shift to the drive gear you want.
5. Have your vehicle inspected by your dealer as soon as possible."
I agree that it's not a "safety issue" like the airbag issue is (which is not covered for cars older than 10 years--shame on GM), but still, for them to produce a product which had known issues before the initial release and not be corrected for the entire almost decade of the production run is sad, to say the least.
Most C6 owners don't frequent this forum, and so don't know there are ways to fix this easily, so they bring them into the dealer at big bucks.
I missed that page in the OM i guess.I've known about this problem but I've never had it.My airbag light has been on for years but i don't even worry about it anymore...You're right GM sucks...
it is going to be around $1353. $853 for the shifter mech, shift **** (sticking apparently) and labor. The tech working on it is there too corvette tech and he said I really need to replace the shift cable while I am at it. That is $500.
I don't really have a choice because I drive from here to Tennessee and I won’t take a chance on it breaking.
I should have it back tomorrow.
Last year I took my '08 C6 A6 24k mi. in for "sticking in Park" under ext warranty after they pre-ordered the shifter. Total job for complete shifting unit, incl the **** (all glued on) and labor: $600, my cost, $100. Ins paid $500. The cable has a long life and usually don't need replacement w/low miles.
Small Chev Dealer in Far nor Cal, (Corning, Ca). Excellent Vette Tech.
They treat Vette owners like Royalty.
Last edited by Holster Maker; 04-24-2018 at 03:29 AM.
Last year I took my '08 C6 A6 24k mi. in for "sticking in Park" under ext warranty after they pre-ordered the shifter. Total job for complete shifting unit, incl the **** (all glued on) and labor: $600, my cost, $100. Ins paid $500. The cable has a long life and usually don't need replacement w/low miles.
Small Chev Dealer in Far nor Cal, (Corning, Ca). Excellent Vette Tech.
They treat Vette owners like Royalty.
Seems to me like theres always a story of these cables falling apart even with low mileage and newer years.......
Sorry for the delay posting the video of testing the switch, the good news is I have not had any trouble with the new switch installed.
Original Micro switch testing with a Fluke OHM meter.
Testing the original automatic shifter micro switch. Shows that the switch is defective. When the switch is not depressed there should be infinite resistance (like a disconnected wire). When the switch is depressed there should be almost zero resistance (two wires connected). The ohm meter shows that the switch has significant resistance when it is lightly and moderately depressed past the detent point, Not good. When that happens the car still thinks the car is not in park and will not release the shift lock when the brake pedal is pressed.
I ordered the following switch from Amazon, it was a four pack, figured I would have a few extras in case I messed up.
Omron SS-5GL13/SL-1W3 Switch, Subminiature, SS-5GL13, Single Pole, Double Throw, 5 125 Volt, 0.78" L x 0.25" W x 0.40" H (Pack of 4) I paid $9.00 and it was Prime eligible.
As I mentioned in my original post, I did have to bend the level on the switch up to match the throw distance of the level on the OEM switch, no big deal. Just compare the old switch to the new switch and gently bend the new switch lever up. You might be able to find a similar switch with a roller or simulated roller like CSIxDude found, but make sure to buy a switch rated in the 120 VAC / 5 amp operating range so the switch will never go bad again.
Your new switch will have three terminals, C = Common, NO = Normally Open and NC = Normally Closed; so it can work in either mode. NO = normally open when the switch is not pressed (like a door bell), NC = normally closed when the switch is not pressed. You want to wire up C and NO terminals, Normally Open mode.
Snip the two switch wires close to the old switch. You will find the wires are a little short to strip and then solder to the new switch. I soldered a two inch piece of stranded wire (like the harness) to the "C" and "NO" terminals on the switch and then soldered the switch with the two inch wire to the cars wires. If you are familiar with heat shrink tube use that on the switch connectors and slip a piece on each of the wires before you solder it all together, much better than tape especially with all the heat near the transmission tunnel.
If you are not comfortable soldering wires practice on old "stuff", I wouldn't consider making this repair without soldering the wires to the switch and the wiring harness. Steel wool is good for cleaning the hot tip of your soldering iron and then apply new solder to "tin" the tip, you are ready to go!
The hardest part of this whole thing is removing the console and shift boot. Feel free to ping me. Good luck.
I replaced the automatic shifter micro switch today and it shifts out of park everytime now. I will update the reliability of the fix after a few weeks of operation. Thanks to the thread starter and FrankSemar for the info.
Does anyone know of a mechanic in Southwest Florida that works side jobs that can do this fix at a reasonable cost? I live between Fort Myers and Sarasota. Thanks in advance.
Originally Posted by HK770
Both A4 and A6 shifters have this problem. Some cut and others just tie it back but this is permanent fix.
But safety of not starting with foot on brake is lost.
It really is an easy DIY fix, and you don't have to permanently tie back the parking pawl if you don't want to.
I tied it to a tether and fed it into the center console w/picture hanging wire, so I could pull it when it misbehaves. It's still safe (gear-wise) the rest of the time.
If this gal could do it, anyone can. Save your $ for better things.
It really is an easy DIY fix, and you don't have to permanently tie back the parking pawl if you don't want to.
I tied it to a tether and fed it into the center console w/picture hanging wire, so I could pull it when it misbehaves. It's still safe (gear-wise) the rest of the time.
If this gal could do it, anyone can. Save your $ for better things.
Was going to cut mine this week, but this is a really cool alternative.
Thanks for your response but the only reason I need someone is I do not want to mess with taking that console off with all the clips and electrical items you have to take off and put back on. That scares me as I know me, I'm a shortcut taker and I'll break something. Seriously, it's worth it to me. Thanks again.
Originally Posted by owc6
It really is an easy DIY fix, and you don't have to permanently tie back the parking pawl if you don't want to.
I tied it to a tether and fed it into the center console w/picture hanging wire, so I could pull it when it misbehaves. It's still safe (gear-wise) the rest of the time.
If this gal could do it, anyone can. Save your $ for better things.
Thanks for the tip CSix. I modified mine this weekend. I did not have to remove the center console - I just pulled the boot out and accessed the switch after moving the shifter into drive. Works perfect now!
Hi ... were you able to install the boot properly - without removing the console ?
It really is an easy DIY fix, and you don't have to permanently tie back the parking pawl if you don't want to.
I tied it to a tether and fed it into the center console w/picture hanging wire, so I could pull it when it misbehaves. It's still safe (gear-wise) the rest of the time.
If this gal could do it, anyone can. Save your $ for better things.
I read many of the posts regarding this subject. After looking into it, it appears that that switch is the root cause. If you look at the switch closely, you will see that it can be taken apart by carefully and gently prying the little tabs on both sides near the base. Once you get it apart, you can use some 1000 grit sand paper to clean the contacts. Simply snap it back together and reinstall. I have not had a "stuck in park" issue ever since I did that. The hardest part of the fix was getting the tab on darn orange PRNDL indicator flag back into the shift lever socket. Long nose pliers and some finessing got that done.
Thanks CSix...
I pulled the microswitch out of mine while I had the shifter out to replace the cable. I tested the switch and fully closed the lowest resistance it would read was 500 ohm. Apparently not enough to make the BCM happy. I replaced the switch and all is well.
Thanks again for the heads up.
Thanks CSix...
I pulled the microswitch out of mine while I had the shifter out to replace the cable. I tested the switch and fully closed the lowest resistance it would read was 500 ohm. Apparently not enough to make the BCM happy. I replaced the switch and all is well.
Thanks again for the heads up.
FYI, I replaced my switch about a year and a half or more ago, and I have not had any more issues with it since.
04-23-2018, 11:17 PM
