A6 won't shift out of park - root cause found
03-04-2019, 08:27 PM
#141
Mine. COST me about .10 to fix and I will never have to deal with it again. Those resistors will fail again and you will be back in there at some point. Just tie back the pawl as I did or leave a cable pull if you like, ( not my preferred method). Also when you take it to the dealer, they are just going to replace with same parts that will fail again also. Kinda like an annuity that keeps paying. Thanks GM.
03-05-2019, 02:09 AM
#143
Burning Brakes
I've had the dreaded, " Stuck in Park" issue a few times over the last couple of years, with luck I was able to get it to shift with some finesse and patience, until this past Sunday. I hit the shift **** a couple times and was able to shift into reverse, thinking I 'm good to go I reversed the car from my stall, when I shifted into drive I did notice the shifter felt tight. It took a lot of effort to shift into gear. Thinking nothing of it I continued on my Sunday Cruise. A few miles down to road I was trying to shift into S to engage my paddle shift and I could not. The shift button would not depress. Since the drive was going smoothly otherwise and it was a beautiful sunny day, I continued on in Drive. When I got home It was evident that something was amiss in the shift assembly. Today I ordered a new Shift assembly, shift **** and cable from the dealership here, looking to have it all changed out sometime next week once the new parts arrive. There was a time I did consider the tie back method, but I worried I would screw it up. Here's hoping that the new shift assembly and cable install will guarantee a couple more years of enjoyment, The Stuck in Park problem is a PIA, too bad GM couldn't come up with a better system or a least a more reliable one, other then the three pedal models, 
Salt
Salt
03-05-2019, 01:37 PM
#144
The tie back is very simple procedure. I was a little reluctant myself, but once I started dis-assembly of the console and shifter boot it was not that bad at all on the first attempt. Took me about an hour as I am slow and took my time as to not break any parts or trim. Replacing the cable might be helpful as the grommets will wear out but in case was not necessary. Good luck
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cadbob (05-08-2023)
08-11-2019, 04:13 PM
#146
Sorry for the delay posting the video of testing the switch, the good news is I have not had any trouble with the new switch installed.
Original Micro switch testing with a Fluke OHM meter.
Testing the original automatic shifter micro switch. Shows that the switch is defective. When the switch is not depressed there should be infinite resistance (like a disconnected wire). When the switch is depressed there should be almost zero resistance (two wires connected). The ohm meter shows that the switch has significant resistance when it is lightly and moderately depressed past the detent point, Not good. When that happens the car still thinks the car is not in park and will not release the shift lock when the brake pedal is pressed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sytg...ist=WL&index=4
What to buy and how to make the repair:
I ordered the following switch from Amazon, it was a four pack, figured I would have a few extras in case I messed up.
Omron SS-5GL13/SL-1W3 Switch, Subminiature, SS-5GL13, Single Pole, Double Throw, 5 125 Volt, 0.78" L x 0.25" W x 0.40" H (Pack of 4) I paid $9.00 and it was Prime eligible.
As I mentioned in my original post, I did have to bend the level on the switch up to match the throw distance of the level on the OEM switch, no big deal. Just compare the old switch to the new switch and gently bend the new switch lever up. You might be able to find a similar switch with a roller or simulated roller like CSIxDude found, but make sure to buy a switch rated in the 120 VAC / 5 amp operating range so the switch will never go bad again.
Your new switch will have three terminals, C = Common, NO = Normally Open and NC = Normally Closed; so it can work in either mode. NO = normally open when the switch is not pressed (like a door bell), NC = normally closed when the switch is not pressed. You want to wire up C and NO terminals, Normally Open mode.
Snip the two switch wires close to the old switch. You will find the wires are a little short to strip and then solder to the new switch. I soldered a two inch piece of stranded wire (like the harness) to the "C" and "NO" terminals on the switch and then soldered the switch with the two inch wire to the cars wires. If you are familiar with heat shrink tube use that on the switch connectors and slip a piece on each of the wires before you solder it all together, much better than tape especially with all the heat near the transmission tunnel.
If you are not comfortable soldering wires practice on old "stuff", I wouldn't consider making this repair without soldering the wires to the switch and the wiring harness. Steel wool is good for cleaning the hot tip of your soldering iron and then apply new solder to "tin" the tip, you are ready to go!
The hardest part of this whole thing is removing the console and shift boot. Feel free to ping me. Good luck.
Original Micro switch testing with a Fluke OHM meter.
Testing the original automatic shifter micro switch. Shows that the switch is defective. When the switch is not depressed there should be infinite resistance (like a disconnected wire). When the switch is depressed there should be almost zero resistance (two wires connected). The ohm meter shows that the switch has significant resistance when it is lightly and moderately depressed past the detent point, Not good. When that happens the car still thinks the car is not in park and will not release the shift lock when the brake pedal is pressed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sytg...ist=WL&index=4
What to buy and how to make the repair:
I ordered the following switch from Amazon, it was a four pack, figured I would have a few extras in case I messed up.
Omron SS-5GL13/SL-1W3 Switch, Subminiature, SS-5GL13, Single Pole, Double Throw, 5 125 Volt, 0.78" L x 0.25" W x 0.40" H (Pack of 4) I paid $9.00 and it was Prime eligible.
As I mentioned in my original post, I did have to bend the level on the switch up to match the throw distance of the level on the OEM switch, no big deal. Just compare the old switch to the new switch and gently bend the new switch lever up. You might be able to find a similar switch with a roller or simulated roller like CSIxDude found, but make sure to buy a switch rated in the 120 VAC / 5 amp operating range so the switch will never go bad again.
Your new switch will have three terminals, C = Common, NO = Normally Open and NC = Normally Closed; so it can work in either mode. NO = normally open when the switch is not pressed (like a door bell), NC = normally closed when the switch is not pressed. You want to wire up C and NO terminals, Normally Open mode.
Snip the two switch wires close to the old switch. You will find the wires are a little short to strip and then solder to the new switch. I soldered a two inch piece of stranded wire (like the harness) to the "C" and "NO" terminals on the switch and then soldered the switch with the two inch wire to the cars wires. If you are familiar with heat shrink tube use that on the switch connectors and slip a piece on each of the wires before you solder it all together, much better than tape especially with all the heat near the transmission tunnel.
If you are not comfortable soldering wires practice on old "stuff", I wouldn't consider making this repair without soldering the wires to the switch and the wiring harness. Steel wool is good for cleaning the hot tip of your soldering iron and then apply new solder to "tin" the tip, you are ready to go!
The hardest part of this whole thing is removing the console and shift boot. Feel free to ping me. Good luck.
It does not matter which wire goes to either the "C" or "NC" terminal. BTW, the switch has been working like a champ, no problems getting the C8 out of park since I made the repair.
Last edited by FrankSemar; 08-11-2019 at 04:35 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by FrankSemar:
gliderdriver (08-11-2019),
rpw1690 (03-23-2020)
08-11-2019, 05:18 PM
#147
Instructor
Thanks ... purchased the Omron switch and installed it a couple of weeks ago ... perfect - no issues since. I did open the original switch and see major pitting on the contacts.
Before starting, I read all the forum posts (10X) and received a couple of responses from members on how to properly remove the A6 shift ****, shift position indicator, and shift boot without breaking any components ...
Soldering the new switch in position did take some skill ... the original switch wires exit at the end ... so you should solder your wires to the new switch to have the approximately the same physical orientation ... and the working space is tight ... so you have to work neatly to insure the new wires fit (roughly) into the guide channel - to allow the boot bezel to fit properly - if the new wires are too long and hang outside the guide - the bezel may not snap down - ask me how I know. :-)
I also installed a fishing line tether to the pawl in case I ever lose electrical - or if the solenoid goes out ...
Thanks again for all your help ...
Before starting, I read all the forum posts (10X) and received a couple of responses from members on how to properly remove the A6 shift ****, shift position indicator, and shift boot without breaking any components ...
Soldering the new switch in position did take some skill ... the original switch wires exit at the end ... so you should solder your wires to the new switch to have the approximately the same physical orientation ... and the working space is tight ... so you have to work neatly to insure the new wires fit (roughly) into the guide channel - to allow the boot bezel to fit properly - if the new wires are too long and hang outside the guide - the bezel may not snap down - ask me how I know. :-)
I also installed a fishing line tether to the pawl in case I ever lose electrical - or if the solenoid goes out ...
Thanks again for all your help ...
The following 2 users liked this post by gliderdriver:
FrankSemar (08-11-2019),
VETFEVER (07-21-2020)
08-12-2019, 02:37 PM
#148
Frank and others. You are right that you have not had any other issues, YET! You will invariably have another issue with this new part just as you did with the first one.
For those who want a permanent fix, just tie back the paw as I did or configure a cable pull when needed. Personally, the tie back is preferred and I have not had nor will I have an issue going forward. The only people who would potentially encounter an issue would be someone who tried to start their vette without their foot on the brake. I can not imagine a situation where that would happen but I am sure some lame brain could do it.
The only situation where I would attempt to replace the sensor would be if I where selling my car. But then again, I would be replacing it so that the new owner could have the same issue down the road.
Not a a good use of time in my opinion
For those who want a permanent fix, just tie back the paw as I did or configure a cable pull when needed. Personally, the tie back is preferred and I have not had nor will I have an issue going forward. The only people who would potentially encounter an issue would be someone who tried to start their vette without their foot on the brake. I can not imagine a situation where that would happen but I am sure some lame brain could do it.
The only situation where I would attempt to replace the sensor would be if I where selling my car. But then again, I would be replacing it so that the new owner could have the same issue down the road.
Not a a good use of time in my opinion
08-12-2019, 08:09 PM
#149
Burning Brakes
I just tied the pawl back on mine a few months ago. I checked that little switch and the arm was just flopping around loosely.
Now, everything works perfectly with no worries about getting stuck in park. My starting procedure and putting it into gear is exactly the same as I've done before, so, there's no fear of shifting out of park by mistake.
Now, everything works perfectly with no worries about getting stuck in park. My starting procedure and putting it into gear is exactly the same as I've done before, so, there's no fear of shifting out of park by mistake.
08-13-2019, 11:47 AM
#150
Burning Brakes
I have had the stuck in park issue on occasion & have had success in pushing a finger down on the shifter boot, feeling around & moving whatever I can get my finger on. I'm at the front left of the shifter & guessing I'm touching the paw enough to let it release.
Might not be the best or permanent solution but worth a try if your stuck somewhere.
Might not be the best or permanent solution but worth a try if your stuck somewhere.
08-13-2019, 03:32 PM
#151
My starting procedure and putting it into gear is exactly the same as I've done before, so, there's no fear of shifting out of park by mistake.[/QUOTE]
EXACTLY!! Well done.
EXACTLY!! Well done.
08-26-2019, 11:10 AM
#152
Instructor
So, I've added the piece of foam, which ended up coming off. Then I used Gorilla glue to hold it on. This method works for me 98% of the time.
Someone had posted earlier, "if you are going to take the console apart, you'd may as well change out the switch". Well, I just order the switch and should be receiving it in a day or 2.
Silly question, how is the switch affixed where it is?
I'm pretty mechanically inclined, and do a lot of the work on my vehicles, but I've never soldered before. I have a couple of savvy neighbors, who would help out, so I'm going to finally swap out the switch. (enough of this BS)
I imagine I would need to use the same gauge wiring which is currently used. Can someone tell me what it is?
Thanks for the help Guys.
Someone had posted earlier, "if you are going to take the console apart, you'd may as well change out the switch". Well, I just order the switch and should be receiving it in a day or 2.
Silly question, how is the switch affixed where it is?
I'm pretty mechanically inclined, and do a lot of the work on my vehicles, but I've never soldered before. I have a couple of savvy neighbors, who would help out, so I'm going to finally swap out the switch. (enough of this BS)
I imagine I would need to use the same gauge wiring which is currently used. Can someone tell me what it is?
Thanks for the help Guys.
08-26-2019, 11:45 AM
#153
The BS you describe will return when the new switch you are attempting to install fails also. I don’t understand you guys who only want a temporary fix that will leave you stranded again.
Just tie it back and be done with it!
Just tie it back and be done with it!
Last edited by sfrank2886; 08-26-2019 at 01:56 PM. Reason: Typo
08-26-2019, 03:46 PM
#154
Cruising
I have a C6 Convertible auto trans with just under 50,000 miles, this being stuck in park just started happening about a year ago. The talk of a failed solenoid did not ring true with me, a switch can be intermittent, even ones with self wiping mechanisms, not solenoids, at least electrically. Exercise of the switch can provide relief. I just yesterday, after a repetitive bout of locks, pried straight up the metal cap on the shifter, and looked at the mechanism for the release, it looked just fine, gave good stroke to the release switch. So I moved the shifter into neutral to get a good shot straight down on the top of the release switch, and gave it a short squirt of CRC 5.56, an automotive dryer I used to use to allow cracked distributor caps to work in the northeast, on wet winter days. The switch has a small round button in the middle, about 3/16" dia, and a small annular gap around the button that could allow dirt, dust or moisture to accumulate over the years. The switch has a rectangular body. Upon squirting this, I've had no indication of locking since, but it is early yet.
I'm still not clear just how to get the shift **** off or release the boot on the auto transmission version from all the excellent writeups posted earlier, but for now, will see how long this lasts. Patience has always won out for previous lockups, but I would not have thought of the Park Switch as being a bad actor, but it makes more sense than the solenoid, after 40 years of heavy industrial and automotive experience in diagnose & repair.
I'm still not clear just how to get the shift **** off or release the boot on the auto transmission version from all the excellent writeups posted earlier, but for now, will see how long this lasts. Patience has always won out for previous lockups, but I would not have thought of the Park Switch as being a bad actor, but it makes more sense than the solenoid, after 40 years of heavy industrial and automotive experience in diagnose & repair.
08-26-2019, 03:55 PM
#155
Cruising
Just a quick note on switch rated voltage, the alloys used on higher voltage switches can be different than lower voltage rated, where the reliability is improved if switching voltages it is designed for, also tweaks in the mechanical design esp with contact wiping can improve reliability. Usually best to match the switch as close as you can to the desired service conditions, over rating not always a good thing.
08-29-2019, 11:33 AM
#156
Pro
I'm not sure what the micro switch is used for because the car knows when the car is in Park because it will not start in any gear except P and N. Also in Accessory mode you can move the gear selector out of park if brake is pushed when micro switch is not engaged. That means it bypassed the micro switch.and engages the solenoid to allow the shifter to move. Why not just wire around that micro switch?
08-29-2019, 04:57 PM
#157
Cruising
Good question, I’ve never tried to move the shift lever without pressing the release, yet to test it in ACC mode. I suppose the reason it is there is to prevent knocking it out of gear by mistake, holding the button confirms your intent?
I’m so used to a mechanical release that I just reflexively use it regardless.
No indication of stuck shift since, but driving it a lot probably helps, need to let it sit for a week or more to give it a good test. Good convertible weather in NC lately.
I’m so used to a mechanical release that I just reflexively use it regardless.
No indication of stuck shift since, but driving it a lot probably helps, need to let it sit for a week or more to give it a good test. Good convertible weather in NC lately.
08-29-2019, 05:47 PM
#158
Pro
In the accessory mode you still have to press the release button and have your foot on the brake to move out of Park. The difference is the motor is not running and you need to move the selector to N to start..
08-29-2019, 07:41 PM
#159
Cruising
Maybe the release button is mechanical, I only saw the top of it, and made a rash assumption. That would make more sense. I never saw anyone show a switch for Neutral position, but the Park Switch is making more sense now. I usually buy the GM Manuals for all my cars, but have delayed on this one...
Update Mar 2020- I also couldn’t get shift to move in ACC mode at times. I found it always works with ignition cycles, usually one extra. If I hear the little click when stepping on the brake, I know it’s good. Since spraying WD40 down inside, it only sticks if left for a month or two, then after is fine. Still don’t know if a bad brake light switch/connection or sticky solenoid. I don’t know if the BCM or ECM only energizes the solenoid at startup, and then assumes it stays energized, then requiring an ignition cycle to re-energize it. Still reluctant to bypass the lock, I hate to ‘fix’ things without knowing what’s broken.
Update Mar 2020- I also couldn’t get shift to move in ACC mode at times. I found it always works with ignition cycles, usually one extra. If I hear the little click when stepping on the brake, I know it’s good. Since spraying WD40 down inside, it only sticks if left for a month or two, then after is fine. Still don’t know if a bad brake light switch/connection or sticky solenoid. I don’t know if the BCM or ECM only energizes the solenoid at startup, and then assumes it stays energized, then requiring an ignition cycle to re-energize it. Still reluctant to bypass the lock, I hate to ‘fix’ things without knowing what’s broken.
Last edited by rpw1690; 03-22-2020 at 07:24 PM.
08-30-2019, 08:18 AM
#160
My car would not go into neutral in ACC mode at times.. UGHHHHH
That prompted me to take the dash apart and use a pull back wire on the lever.
As others have stated, Im not sure the shifter can be pulled back into gear without actuating the button on the shifter?
But I am lockout free and Happy for now.
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rpw1690 (08-30-2019)