Cherokee Nation

I just tested and,yes i can move back and forward with the passenger door open,then tested with both doors open and same result....Now we know!

mike_engr

New observation regarding stuck A6 Shifter (mine 2007 with 33k miles).... My "shift outa park" became intermittently stuck over the past week. Got progressively worse. Finally it refused to shift totally. Luckily I figured out the ACC mode, shift to Neutral trick on my own in shopping center parking lot in order to get home.

Based on research I was assuming it was micro switch problem.

Removed the shifter **** (2007) in preparation to remove the syn-leather shifter boot, but ended up having to use the car before getting any deeper into the center console removal. However, ever since removing the shifter **** I have had NO shift problems for 3 days! It is a bit awkward to push down on the sharp vertical sifter rod instead of pulling the trigger on the ****, but the shifting has been flawless.

I really think the problem I'm having is that the ****'s pistol lever is NOT pushing the internal plunger far enough down! My claw and microswitch is working fine now! I'm thinking now I should somehow improve the stroke of the pistol grip or shim the top of the vertical sharp rod???

By process of elimination my shifter works fine without the 2007 Pistol grip !
Any thoughts??? Anyone else see this cause/effect???

owc6

Most of us who have had this issue found that it is indeed progressive. It starts out once in a while and gets more frequent until you are stranded.

Mine followed this progression over the course of 30,000 miles (starting at 200,000 mi) with periods of months where it behaved properly, followed by start after start where it did not. Pushing the shifter forward and to the left worked for awhile. Eventually, even putting into Acc mode did not help.

I then tied the pawl to a tether and loop to pull when it's misbehaving.

449er

To the OP, thanks for your insight into this problem!

mike_engr

All problems are gone, 4+ days of flawless operation without the K N O B attached to top of A6 Shifter... In my case I think the pistol grip A6 K N O B is the problem.

Does anyone know an aftermarket replacement??? Maybe even a Ball like a manual tranny that pushes up and down to activate the CLAW more directly than the pistol grip???? I don't trust the pistol grip anymore to push the rod down far enough to operate the release....

mike_engr

New .K N O B. puts C6 A6 in "SPORT" mode 24/7!

Signal_20

Does anyone know the part number and a source for the microswitch discussed in theis post? I want to order one to have on hand.

Jim - Orlando

pfloor

Signal_20, this was posted earlier in the thread...

Signal_20

Does chevy sell the stock switches and can you get them online do you know?
Jim

pfloor

The switches have never been available from GM separately. The only way to get them from GM is to buy the entire shifter assembly. The shifter is around $200 depending on year and color. And for $200 you get the same crappy switches that came with the car.

Signal_20

Actuall I think I fixed it. I have been having problems getting it out of park for a while but I couple weeks ago I found out I could feel the switch through the shift boot. I bent the switch lever out a little and have not had a problem since so keeping my fingers crossed. Might not be a permanent fix but has not done it since I bent the lever. I just thought I would get a switch to have in case it acted up again. Maybe I'll order the radio shack one since you can't get the Chevy part.

Jim - Orlando

oemtech

I think the Dodge boys are thinking out side the box. I was cleaning my R/T Scat Pack Charger and found this buried under the console coin holder. Emergency shift linkage release. To bad GM didn't think of this.

owc6

Yes, it is too bad GM didn't allow for this. It's a good thing that there are people here who have, and they are kind enough to share the fix they found.

FrankSemar

Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and solutions.

I just ordered this switch "SS-5GL13" from Amazon, $11 for a pack of four switches and free shipping with Prime. I will write back in a week or so after I install it. I will take pictures.

Looks like the switches I ordered can operate either NO (normally open) or NC (normally closed) depending on which pin you wire up (note there are three pins on the SS-5GL15). For this application I am pretty sure we need a normally open switch which only completes the circuit when the shifter is in park, but will test the old switch when I remove it.

FrankSemar

Got the switches this morning, install one and the shifter is working like a champ. I did test the old and the new switch with an ohm meter and saw the same issue with the old switch that CSixDude originally posted. Basically, the old switch didn't always make a good connection and I could measure a lot of resistance when the switch was closed. I have a few pics and videos that I can upload later with a little more detail.

I did have to bend the lever on the new switch to make proper contact with the shifter, no big deal and it was easy (I have a pic to show you). There is probably a better model of the switch like CSixDude showed with a roller that would not need to be bent. I will look for the part number in the brand I listed above since it was rated for 5 amps @ 250vac, I think that is much better than the Radioshack switch or the one originally from Chevy.

windyC6

Yea....I wish I would have thought of this before I took it all apart and tied it back at the site. Hate to go back in there just to tether it....too many cheap parts that could break.....Thanks GM !!!

FrankSemar

Sorry for the delay posting the video of testing the switch, the good news is I have not had any trouble with the new switch installed.

Original Micro switch testing with a Fluke OHM meter.
Testing the original automatic shifter micro switch. Shows that the switch is defective. When the switch is not depressed there should be infinite resistance (like a disconnected wire). When the switch is depressed there should be almost zero resistance (two wires connected). The ohm meter shows that the switch has significant resistance when it is lightly and moderately depressed past the detent point, Not good. When that happens the car still thinks the car is not in park and will not release the shift lock when the brake pedal is pressed.


What to buy and how to make the repair:

I ordered the following switch from Amazon, it was a four pack, figured I would have a few extras in case I messed up.

Omron SS-5GL13/SL-1W3 Switch, Subminiature, SS-5GL13, Single Pole, Double Throw, 5 125 Volt, 0.78" L x 0.25" W x 0.40" H (Pack of 4) I paid $9.00 and it was Prime eligible.

As I mentioned in my original post, I did have to bend the level on the switch up to match the throw distance of the level on the OEM switch, no big deal. Just compare the old switch to the new switch and gently bend the new switch lever up. You might be able to find a similar switch with a roller or simulated roller like CSIxDude found, but make sure to buy a switch rated in the 120 VAC / 5 amp operating range so the switch will never go bad again.

Your new switch will have three terminals, C = Common, NO = Normally Open and NC = Normally Closed; so it can work in either mode. NO = normally open when the switch is not pressed (like a door bell), NC = normally closed when the switch is not pressed. You want to wire up C and NO terminals, Normally Open mode.


Snip the two switch wires close to the old switch. You will find the wires are a little short to strip and then solder to the new switch. I soldered a two inch piece of stranded wire (like the harness) to the "C" and "NO" terminals on the switch and then soldered the switch with the two inch wire to the cars wires. If you are familiar with heat shrink tube use that on the switch connectors and slip a piece on each of the wires before you solder it all together, much better than tape especially with all the heat near the transmission tunnel.

If you are not comfortable soldering wires practice on old "stuff", I wouldn't consider making this repair without soldering the wires to the switch and the wiring harness. Steel wool is good for cleaning the hot tip of your soldering iron and then apply new solder to "tin" the tip, you are ready to go!

The hardest part of this whole thing is removing the console and shift boot. Feel free to ping me. Good luck.

mike_engr

Yep Frank & other posters: I did the same repair yesterday. A week ago I ordered two SS-5GL13, under $5 including S/H on ebay. Soldered them in yesterday as "NO". Had to bend both arms to get proper contact. My orig OEM switches tested out well with virtually no resistance - - and I actually hadn't experienced Handle lock-outs for a few days after re-bending the OEM arms, but figured I might as well solder in new switches to avoid another console&boot removal in future!

One note I've not seen discussed: My micro switches could wiggle a tiny bit, so I used some high-temp hot glue to stabilize them.... Better safe than sorry....

Shifter & OEM handle/**** is working great now! Hopefully will never see another intermittent shifter lock-out!

door2416

I'd be interested to know if the micro switches have burnt contacts inside rather than are just out of adjustment. Could you break them open and let us know? Burnt contacts would give intermiten problems.

FrankSemar

Good idea! I popped open the switch and you can definitely see the burnt/pitted contacts on the NO contacts. The little piece of metal next to the switch, that is the NC contact. definitely confirms what i measured with the ohm meter. If this was MythBuster they would call this "Confirmed"




you are looking at the burnt NO contacts, note the tab on the right side is the NC contact with no signs of pitting or burning.



Micro switch with cover removed. I snipped off the top left bar so we can look at the contacts better. The peice I snipped off is laying on the right side of the next pic.