gordosoar

When I have to change the tires on my 06 with 96,000 miles I plan on changing all the above items also. I think they are all original parts and with 96k I think it's time.
Please allow me to pick your brains to get the best combination for the type of driving I do,,, that would be just on the street and not very aggressively. I'm 76 (next month) on the outside but 26 on the inside.
Still I don't speed much as my fixed income doesn't allow for $300.00 tickets.
There must be a good combination of parts that will be cost effective and reliable.
Thanks in advance for all your wonderful advice.
G

buck fever

For your brake and rotor setup check out Power Stop online. You can also view Zip Corvettes online since they carry a variety of brake combinations along with many other replacement parts for any job your doing.

You can replace your shocks with OEM or go with Bilstein shocks as an upgrade.

Tires really depend on a number of factors such as run flat vs non run flat, etc. Tirerack does a nice job of describing each tire's capabilities.

Good luck

C6ToGo

My opinion. Replace shocks in pairs and only if one or more has failed.

Don't replace hub bearing unless it fails (noisy). And then I don't see the need to replace all of them. Not a maintenance item.

If rotors are not below minimum thickness and work ok (ie, not warped with no pulsating brake) then no need to replace.

CessnaDriver

Some of these questions answered today from my thread........

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ds-shocks.html

gordosoar

I have decided on the firestone Indy 500 for the tires.
And I have looked at some of the other replacement parts available, but not sure which to buy. Hence the question. Like there are lots of different break pads, but one must be better than another for my driving style.
Or, solid rotors over slotted. Etc.
I was hoping for some recommendations.
G

LMB-Z

As previously stated....no need to change hubs unless there is a problem. Also, no need to change rotors unless one is warped or out of spec...they just don't hardly wear out, especially under normal driving. Brake pads, if they are worn out, replace. Shocks....may/may not be worn out. Good luck. No need to spend money needlessly.

gordosoar

I don't know if the shocks are good or bad at this time,, but some have said that at 96,000 it's time to replace them. I think I'll take her in to the dealer and let them look it over to see what really needs to be replaced.
Like you guys say,,don't fix it if it ain't broke.

HOXXOH

That's an assurance that you'll see a large enough estimate that'd use up several months of your fixed income.

extrapilot

Considering your fixed income status, I would suggest the following.
As for the rotors, I would just have them turned down, as this will give a nice new finish for the Brake pads to bed to. This will also ensure that the rotors run true and should have no brake pulsing as a result. If the rotors have heat check marks in them, they wont be able to be re-used, and news ones would be the way to go. The shop that turns them down would give you a heads up, if this is the case.
Nothing wrong with GM OEM parts, IMO, and go with stock shocks.
Check out RockAuto dot com for pricing.

gordosoar

Yes that is a possibllity, but at least I will know what it needs or not. My Love Chevy dealer, will do it for free.
I'll come back and let you know what they find.

LMB-Z

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say the dealership says you need:

new shocks...$800 + labor

new brakes and rotors.....$1200

new tires.....$1800

HOXXOH

I think you're a taste high, but $1300 + labor for hubs more than covers it for a large total.

I'm guessing the bottom line will be north of $6K.

gordosoar

I had the car inspected at my dealer yesterday as promised and here is what they found (according to them):
Back shocks leaking, front ok, replace all 4 = $700
Needs front brakes + turn rotors.= $244
All including labor.
Everything else looks good so I'm not going to do anything other than what NEEDS to be done at this time.
I could still do the work myself and save a lot of money,, but the price they quoted I sent bad.. I think.
What do you think?
G

extrapilot

As for dealer pricing, seems not so bad. I think you could do the shock perhaps yourself and save there..Delco shock (4) would cost $240 at rock auto and easy enough do to in your driveway.

gordosoar

I'll check them out.
Lots of you tube on how to do it.

HOXXOH

Now that the dealer says you no longer need new rotors, new tires, and hubs, do you feel better about driving your car again?
I'm also a 1941 model and I do my own maintenance. Autozone/O'rielly's/etc will turn rotors for $15 each and supply ceramic pads for as low as $40. Do the online OEM shocks and spend some enjoyable time working on the car. Done deal for slightly over $300 and a great deal of self satisfaction.

GREENKAR

You could also do all 4 corners for the brakes. Auto Zone Dura Last Gold ceramic brake pads $115.00. And they also eliminate the black brake dust. So your wheels stay nice and clean. Very

mikeCsix

I'd use Cultrag Performance for parts, Gene is a forum vendor and tries very hard to get it right the first time, if you can do the shocks, the brakes are a piece of cake. Instead of turning the rotors, I would just replace if you plan to keep the car for awhile. A lot of people like the Duralast pads out of the local McParts store, I would look at installing ceramics as they dust a lot less, and AC Delco sells ceramics. I like using OEM parts everywhere unless I can find higher performance parts which usually comes at a premium above OEM - for instance brake components. I really like DBA slotted rotors on my GS, They are more expensive than OEM, but I don't like holes in my rotors and I track my car so heat checking can be an issue. If I kept it on the street, I would stay with the drilled OEM's.

If you are willing to do your own brakes, I think you could beat the $244 with new OEM rotors and pads and I would also take the time to flush the brake fluid on all 4 corners. Easy enough to do if you are doing the shocks and you have some patience, just let gravity do the work.

Enjoy working on your car!

irok

4 factory Z51 or Z06 shocks at one time were only $200. maybe a little higher now.even if you paid $300. now and had someone help with shock replacement which is not a difficult job you could save $400.versus having dealer do it.the $400. saved would pay for the brake job

HOXXOH

Just to add to the bolded part, since some people haven't done it before on cars with ABS.
It's important to never let the fluid run out of the master cylinder when flushing the system. Continually add new as needed during the process to always keep the level visible. Bleed RR, LR, RF, and LF in that order.