RC4G

Strange problem.

Drove 2011 Grandsport in to work this morning without issue. When I went to leave no issue entering/exiting the vehicle either.

Stopped at gas station on way home and that's when the driver door wouldn't open from the outside of the vehicle. When I tried the exterior push button the window would index, i could hear the latch cycle and then the window would go back up but I couldn't open the door.

Went around to passenger side and door opened frome xterior without issue. Reached in and opened the driver's side energency release and the door indexed and opened. Got in the car and drove home. When I tried to get out of the car from the driver's side the window indexed, the latch cycled but the door would not open.

Sitting inside the car the passenger door would open using the interior button 1 out of 2 tries.

Disconnected battery for 30 minutes, reconnected and re-indexed both windows but the doors still will not open using either the interior or exterior buttons.

Did all testing while the motor was running and battery voltage showing between 13.8 - 14.1 on the DIC.

Any thoughts on what the issue might be? If it was just one door i would say the latch needed replacing but both doors going bad at the same time seems very unlikely.

NOWUCME

Take a shot at turning off the passive open and close on the DIC if it is on. Does the door pop open part way but not completely so you can open it. If it does then just the hand pad needs a refresh. If it just clicks and doesn't open at all could be the latches, or the computer that sends the message. Once your in I assume the FOB is able to start the engine. Not sure what else to check. GL

Are you using the key to get into the trunk and opening the door from there? A M6 or A6 ?? might help others answer.

RC4G

Car is a M6.

In all cases using the emergency release on the side of either seat or in the trunk opens the doors.

Like I said I can hear the latches cycle but its like they don't open enough to fully release the latch so I can open the door. The doors partially release but not enough so the door will open.

NOWUCME

Ok so this post you said the door partially open, that helps, I would recommend you clean the contacts on the door pads first. If that doesn't work it is probably the latch's. Hope not. They mention a few other possibilities at the end of video, fob battery would be easiest to check if the cleaning doesn't help.

Here's a YouTube about what I'm talking about. there are others. If your doors are doing what is first shown, it may be the answer. Be careful not to overdo the scrubbing but it takes awhile to clean. Easy job, be careful not to let the wire slip back inside the door. Put a little clip on it to hold it outside the door.

I didn't disconnect the battery and had no trouble, and didn't apply the grease. Just used the pad with a little metal polish I had and wiped good. There way may be the best if you want to go with that. Mine worked great after cleaning, probably never cleaned before.

RC4G

Will give it a shot this evening.

NOWUCME

Mine didn't come quite as clean as the video but the big areas did, couple of the small lines didn't. But the big areas are the contact points I believe. Had to rub several times cleaning in-between. Don't over tighten those small screws, just firm when they seem to bottom out. Same with the two bigger door screws, it's just plastic. And be sure to wipe the little silver tabs towards the up side so you don't bend them further.

If they only work with the car running could be the battery. If not that, the fob could cause it too if it's battery is weak. As I recall sometimes the inside button will not work if the car is still in gear on an M6 or not where they recommend in the manual. I have an A6 so it may be different than the M6 for the inside buttons to work.

Think those are most of the easy fixes, as said the latches could be bad too, but as you said doesn't seem they would both go at the same time.

Hope that works. Good luck.

extrapilot

Could be a bad door latch mechanism.

NOWUCME

See Update on post #6.

NOWUCME

Any luck with the door pad cleaning?

RC4G

Yes and no. I opened up the driver's side door pad and while there was some slight corrosion on the brass side the main issue was the other side with the contact tangs had come loose from the microscopic rubber plugs that affix it to the rubber pad (terrible design).

I purchased two new switches from my local dealer (don't know why anyone would waste time and effort to clean old ones when new ones can be purchased online for $10) and installed one in the driver's door.

Unfortunately the new switch did not resolve the original issue. The door latch still cycles twice when the button (interior or exterior) is pushed but the door does not bump/release.

RC4G

So it looks like I am buying a new latch.

DAMN.

extrapilot

There are a set of gears inside the mechanism that could strip out and render it useless, but the motor is probably what your hearing.
Here's a link showing the inside of this unit.


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tor-issue.html

RC4G

I might open it up after I replace it just for giggles.

gmpartsdirect.com has the latch for $187 to my door, trying to see if I can source it quicker locally for a comparable price ...

NOWUCME

Guess I was just lucky, an hour cleaning both pads(they were very dirty) and both latches are working great.XXX Just wasn't getting enough power from the contacts. Thought it might be the latches (saw that post first) but then saw the post about pads and thought it would be an easy fix to try first and it seems it was my problem. Not looking forward to changing latches but may have to in future, seems to be a regular problem and mine is a 2006.

RC4G

Well, replacing the latch resolved the issue. You can differently tell a difference in the strength of the poip spring on the new latch versus the passenger door and considering the passenger door was sporadically catching as well I'm going to go ahead and order another latch and replace it as well.

Replacing the contact switches should always be your first shot as they are cheap and at $10 from gmpartsdirect.com they aren't worth opening up and risk breaking the very fragile, tiny rubber plugs that hold the silver spring contact plate in place on the rubber pad.

Replacing the latch is not hard to do but will be time consuming your first time because figuring out how the connecting rods correctly attach under the cover plate is a little challenging. There are guide tangs on near both connections holes and the rod has to go above the tangs (towards the motor assembly).

Like the various youtube videos show you must remove the sill plate trim before you remove the plastic trim covering the back side of the latch.

Last word of advice. Drape a towel over the carpet and seat track before you are unscrew the two tiny torx screws to remove the release cable cover. I guarantee you will drop one if not both screws and if preventative measures are not taken they will immediately fly into the vanishing screw black hole that always appears when working with trim parts.

Smuttynose

Just watched the video, cleaned my latch as proscribed, and 'voila'! Works perfectly!! Thanks guys! -Buzz