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Another Service Traction and handling system thread

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Old 07-17-2017, 08:38 AM
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morrisk64
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Default Another Service Traction and handling system thread

Greetings all, I have searched the forum for possible fixes on this and found people have similar problems but different causes. Here's my situation:

2012 Grand Sport w manual tranny

I was doing a little spirited driving and turned a corner, gave her some juice and the back wheels lost a traction. Immediately afterwards I had an obvious loss of power, like running on only 6 or 7 cylinders or something, the check engine light came on, traction control light is on, service traction system on the DIC along with service active handling system light also. All lights are still on 3 days later and it's still running like crap, plan on taking to the dealer today, would rather do a home fix if possible.

I disconnected the battery with hopes of some kind of reset as mentioned in here somewhere, with no success. Before I take it to the dealer today and be dragged over the coals, has anybody had this happen to them and somehow fixed it, cheaply?

Again, I am positive all of this was caused by my wheels spinning, on a slightly bumpy road at that. I don't mean to beat a dead horse here but since I know that the wheel spin caused it, maybe that will help determine what could be wrong. the errors didn't just come on for no reason like other have posted here.
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:10 AM
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EVRose
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Check your plug wires and make sure they are secure on the coils.
Old 07-17-2017, 12:33 PM
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2L8LUZ
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Make sure that the terminals are tight after removing them... This will cause that too... The terminals have been known to slip off...

Also. If you reset the battery, your car is now relearning Air/Fuel... So its going to feel like **** for the first 100 miles... 250 to get back to normal...

Last edited by 2L8LUZ; 07-17-2017 at 12:35 PM.
Old 07-17-2017, 12:51 PM
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EVRose
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Originally Posted by 2L8LUZ
Make sure that the terminals are tight after removing them... This will cause that too... The terminals have been known to slip off...

Also. If you reset the battery, your car is now relearning Air/Fuel... So its going to feel like **** for the first 100 miles... 250 to get back to normal...
Never heard of that one.
Old 07-17-2017, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by EVRose
Never heard of that one.
Old 07-17-2017, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by EVRose
Never heard of that one.
Old 07-17-2017, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by morrisk64
Greetings all, I have searched the forum for possible fixes on this and found people have similar problems but different causes. Here's my situation:

2012 Grand Sport w manual tranny

I was doing a little spirited driving and turned a corner, gave her some juice and the back wheels lost a traction. Immediately afterwards I had an obvious loss of power, like running on only 6 or 7 cylinders or something, the check engine light came on, traction control light is on, service traction system on the DIC along with service active handling system light also. All lights are still on 3 days later and it's still running like crap, plan on taking to the dealer today, would rather do a home fix if possible.

I disconnected the battery with hopes of some kind of reset as mentioned in here somewhere, with no success. Before I take it to the dealer today and be dragged over the coals, has anybody had this happen to them and somehow fixed it, cheaply?

Again, I am positive all of this was caused by my wheels spinning, on a slightly bumpy road at that. I don't mean to beat a dead horse here but since I know that the wheel spin caused it, maybe that will help determine what could be wrong. the errors didn't just come on for no reason like other have posted here.
Take it somewhere and see what codes are spitting out or to determine which wheel it's coming from.

Try un-clipping the wire harness going to the wheel and clean with electrical spray contact cleaner, and when you plug it back in, push the wires back in the back connector as well.

Mine turned out to be the speed sensor.

See this thread.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ode-c0035.html
Old 07-17-2017, 03:13 PM
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I have the same problem. I had a friend hook up a scanner and it has codes C0040 & C0253. C0040 is the right front wheel bearing and C0253 is a Centering error. The reason I'm telling you my problems is because I'm really starting to believe that anything that goes wrong with the ABS or driveability of the car is going to throw these codes. I've read so many different reasons as to why these codes are thrown. Have someone with a tech 2 hook it up to see what the problem is. I will replace my wheel bearing this winter while in hibernation. I'm hoping the centering problem goes away with that.
Old 07-17-2017, 04:15 PM
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torquetube
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Originally Posted by morrisk64
Again, I am positive all of this was caused by my wheels spinning
You don't know that. Assume nothing.

Your engine isn't running well so whatever is wrong isn't isolated to the EBCM. Any old code reader should be able to tell you what's setting the CEL. After a visual inspection under the hood, that's really the next step.

If you have any intention of keeping the car for the long haul, I recommend buying a knockoff Tech II for $250 so you can see into all the modules. This will put you much closer to a diagnosis and could pay for itself in a single repair.
Old 07-17-2017, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by EVRose
Never heard of that one.

it is simply not true that the engine will run badly for the first 100 miles. That's not the way fuel trims work.

If this is an auto trans, and the capacitance was drained out of the electrical system, you will lose those learned shift points and that might make shifting feel funny until your driving style is relearned.

And - I hope someday that everyone will see the value in a code reader. If these are C-Code failures, then most code readers will show nothing BC most will only read P-Codes, BUT, TC and AH are often shut down when other failures occur. When the primary failure is found/fixed, TC and AH messages will disappear. GM did a disservice wording these DIC messages as they did. It would be far more accurate to have the DIC print out - TC and AH temporarily out of service. or TC and AH not available. Far more accurate than Service TC and AH.

Last edited by BlindSpot; 07-17-2017 at 04:49 PM.
Old 07-17-2017, 04:44 PM
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I'd agree w. torque's analysis above but with an addition. Whenever something goes off with, or affects abs, tract. control or active handling, it will throw the car into some form of lower performance (limp home, etc.)---this is a safety factor. Also, while you may think going over a bump with wheels spinning was the cause---it may be or it may not. Other causes or outcomes could be things like a bad throttle position sensor (two at the gas pedal assembly) or even a bad battery triggered by the car and the road.

I think torque will agree that the reason for a code reader btw isn't to read the code and buy parts. It's to lead you on a path of checks that will narrow/isolate the system causing the problems.

Good luck. Come back and tell us what was/were the real issue or issues!
Old 07-17-2017, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by EVRose
Check your plug wires and make sure they are secure on the coils.
This happened to me yesterday. The #5 cylinder coil wire came loose (which I did not know at the time) and I got a service active handeling. Once I re-installed the wire I did disconnect the battery. Re-connected the battery and no issues since.
Old 07-17-2017, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BlindSpot
it is simply not true that the engine will run badly for the first 100 miles. That's not the way fuel trims work.

If this is an auto trans, and the capacitance was drained out of the electrical system, you will lose those learned shift points and that might make shifting feel funny until your driving style is relearned.

And - I hope someday that everyone will see the value in a code reader. If these are C-Code failures, then most code readers will show nothing BC most will only read P-Codes, BUT, TC and AH are often shut down when other failures occur. When the primary failure is found/fixed, TC and AH messages will disappear. GM did a disservice wording these DIC messages as they did. It would be far more accurate to have the DIC print out - TC and AH temporarily out of service. or TC and AH not available. Far more accurate than Service TC and AH.
Any recommendations on a certain type or brand code reader Steve ?? One than wont break the bank also
Thanks
Bobby
Old 07-17-2017, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Not So Fast
Any recommendations on a certain type or brand code reader Steve ?? One than wont break the bank also
Thanks
Bobby
Hey Bobby:

Hard Q to answer. I've gone through dozens of scan tools. In fact, I still have half dozen or so in a drawer in the garage. I personally use a Tech 2, for the Corvette but for run of the mill average scanners, I've really come to like one in particular that I bought a few years back for my wife's Jaguar. It's an Actron CP9575 and I actually now carry it around in the well pocket of the Corvette (until it sells...LOL...and it is for sale!). I'll move it over to the Jag if we travel in it, or, another car someday.

Remember, that most scan tools will only read P-Codes. P-Codes are emissions related codes and automotive mfgrs were forced to standardize around the SAE assigned codes for emissions. But there are also C-Codes (chassis related codes), B-Codes (body related codes) and U-Codes (communications {can Bus} Codes). Here the mfgrs get pretty unique with some of these codes. Lots are standard, but once you leave P-Codes, you need to know your model. I only know two scan tools that will read all these codes - a Tech 2 and an Autoenginuity with the GM upgrade.

But, for the most part, performance related CELS will be P-Codes. so, 90% of the CELs can be read by these inexpensive readers. For C6 Corvettes, make sure the scan tool is Can Bus compatible. Here is a pic of the box from my Actron.

Old 07-17-2017, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BlindSpot
Hey Bobby:

Hard Q to answer. I've gone through dozens of scan tools. In fact, I still have half dozen or so in a drawer in the garage. I personally use a Tech 2, for the Corvette but for run of the mill average scanners, I've really come to like one in particular that I bought a few years back for my wife's Jaguar. It's an Actron CP9575 and I actually now carry it around in the well pocket of the Corvette (until it sells...LOL...and it is for sale!). I'll move it over to the Jag if we travel in it, or, another car someday.

Remember, that most scan tools will only read P-Codes. P-Codes are emissions related codes and automotive mfgrs were forced to standardize around the SAE assigned codes for emissions. But there are also C-Codes (chassis related codes), B-Codes (body related codes) and U-Codes (communications {can Bus} Codes). Here the mfgrs get pretty unique with some of these codes. Lots are standard, but once you leave P-Codes, you need to know your model. I only know two scan tools that will read all these codes - a Tech 2 and an Autoenginuity with the GM upgrade.

But, for the most part, performance related CELS will be P-Codes. so, 90% of the CELs can be read by these inexpensive readers. For C6 Corvettes, make sure the scan tool is Can Bus compatible. Here is a pic of the box from my Actron.

So your saying that the Harbor Freight scan tool wont serve the purpose huh
Old 07-17-2017, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Not So Fast
So your saying that the Harbor Freight scan tool wont serve the purpose huh
No, not saying that at all. Might just work fine. It MUST SAY "CAN" compatible, or else you have the wrong one. Getting started, comfortable accessing the engine management system is a step everyone should take. Just like, at one time, you purchased a tire gauge and decided you weren't going to guess how much air was in the tire....this is just like that at another level.

Hope you GET STARTED Mr. Bobby!!
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by AORoads
I'd agree w. torque's analysis above but with an addition. Whenever something goes off with, or affects abs, tract. control or active handling, it will throw the car into some form of lower performance (limp home, etc.)---this is a safety factor.
I have experienced TC/AH-disabling conditions without any discernible change in engine operation.

He described the engine as running as if it were only firing on "6 or 7 cylinders" and "running like crap." That is abnormal.

He also has a CEL. Things like a wheel speed sensor fault will not cause a CEL. That suggests a powertrain code is stored.

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Old 07-21-2017, 10:14 AM
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morrisk64
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Update, I took it to the dealer and they hooked it up to the computer and found that the #6 cylinder plug wire somehow slightly disconnected and was arcing. they replaced the plug wire and problem solved. It was a cheap fix and I was extremely pleased it was nothing major. Thanks for all of your replies.

Last edited by morrisk64; 07-21-2017 at 10:16 AM.
Old 07-21-2017, 10:18 PM
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I have a 2011 GS that suddenly the service traction system light came on and the car feels like it is running on 6 cylinders. Any clue as to what is happening before I bring it to a dealer and get ripped off.
Old 07-21-2017, 10:23 PM
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torquetube
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Originally Posted by fcaponegro
I have a 2011 GS that suddenly the service traction system light came on and the car feels like it is running on 6 cylinders. Any clue as to what is happening before I bring it to a dealer and get ripped off.
Have you checked the #6 cylinder plug wire?


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