Slick Rick

I'm gonna take this thing in next week and have an A/C check done. Im tired of cooking in 100 plus heat. First question to anyone who has a 2005 and has gone thru this,on the recharge did you do 1.4 like the sticker says or did you do 1.1 so you don't have the high pressure shut down the compressor. Right now my A/C thermometer is reading at about 60 degrees and it pretty much stays on recirculate all the time. Indicates some kind of problem. (not enough refrigerant) . My main question how big of difference between a 1.1 fill and a 1.4 fill.......

saplumr

The 05 cars were overcharged at 1.4 from the factory. Revised weight was 1.1. It showed up as a severe problem on blower cars and the adjusted was a major difference.

Dano523

Check to make sure that the cabin temp sensor is still in the bezel back socket , and not in the bowls of the dash instead.

To the left of the starter button is a louver section. Shine a light in the louvers and make sure you see a blue thing front and center.





If you don't see it/nothing but open space behind the slots, then you need to pull the instrument bezel so you can install it back in the back side of the bezel.

Hence when the cabin temp sensor is not snapped into the back of the louver section (some where in the bowls of the dash instead), the Ac can not get a clean reading of the temp in the cabin, and the A/C goes to hell in a hand basket (will make you thing your going through menopause as the car cabin temp either gets too hot, or too cold instead).

Your done at :28 and have the bezel out to fish the sensor out of the bowls of the dash that is fell into as it popped out of the bezel socket it snaps into, snap it back into the bezel socket for it, and make sure it stays in the back bezel socket as you snap the lower right corner tabs of the bezel back in place.


Also note, if you do have to pull the bezel to reinstall it, take the time to clean the dust off the temp sensor fan, and even start the car with the bezel off to make sure that the fan in the cabin temp sensor is spinning. The fan can get layered in dust, which slows the air drawing cabin air across the sensor The blue thing, and will not get a quick readings that the A/C requires to make the correct adjustments

And if the sensor did pop off and was in the bowls of the dash from before, when you have in installed correctly, your going to hear the fan spinning when you start the car. The fan sound is normal (don't panic) and you will get used to sound of the fan spinning in a min or two.

Next take the car to a self serve car wash, and power wash the front of the A/C heat exchanger and through the raditor through the nose opening of the front fender cover. From there, take a good look between the front of the radiator and the back side of the A/C heat exchanger for any derbies that you may not have power washed out.

If needed and you have a lot of debris between the two that is blocking air flow, you can unbolt the heat exchange and slightly pull it away from the radiator without having to disconnect the A/C lines to get in there with a garden hose sprayer to clean out the last of the debris from under the car.



Lastly, get in the car, start it, turn the A/C on, and you should hear the raditor fan spinning on the quicker side. If the fan does not come on, then chances are you have a burnt connector for the raditor fan that needs to resolved.


If the fan is running,but running on the slow side, then the problem is that the raditor fan bearings are starting to go out to cause the fan to run slow (not pulling enough air across the a/c heat exchanger), and you either need to replace the raditor fan bearings (not for the meek) or the entire fan assembly with motor instead.


Next, pull the cabin air filter and install a new charcol air filter back in place. If you find a lot of crap in the filter, then use an air hose to blow the ducts from the crowling to the air box out (along with a dead mouse or two you mind find in the duct work as well). I don't even own a cat, but the last time I changed my cabin filter, looked like someone skinned a cat over the duct opening to get that much cat hair in the filter.

If when you shut the car down when you had the A/C running hard and don't hear water dripping off the passenger exhaust manifold, then you may need to clean out the A/c box drain hose to allow the collected condensation in the air that turned to water in the box to drain out correctly.



Short of that, would bank that the A/C module has a cold solder joint that needs to be soldered to fix the module.

And trust me, with the above completed and the system pressured to 1.1, it will be enough for the A/C to freeze your nuts to the side of your leg with the A/C set to way cold; even when driving through Florida with the temp over 100 and the humidity close 99%.

COCO RICK

Now that's an answer.

airmed2

That's a great description of a possible problem. One word of advice....the correct spelling is bowels, lol.

Slick Rick

All the above has been done except the cabin filter. So I'm gonna run out and get one of those today. If I'm still having problems after that, I'm just gonna take it to the shop and have an inspection done. I'm thinking if all is evacuated, vacuumed, and refilled with 1.1 things should be like new again as long as there are no leaks etc.... Thanks for the help......

Slick Rick

"UPDATE" Put in new cabin filter, Dropped my temps to 65 on A/C unit. It is about 74 degrees out. A/C thermometer dropped to 42 degrees. Bumped unit up to 70 and ran between 49 and 59 degrees. I'm gonna go out around 3PM or so when its in the 90s and do the same test and see what happens......

Dano523

FYI, but the flow arrow on the filter should be pointing downward.
The air is pulling in from the top of the filter, and then sucked down through the filter into the air box.


Also, double check to make sure that the air box rubbing drain hose is not clog!!!!

The light is aimed at the drain tube,


And the tube looks like this,


Although a c5, the drain tube on the C6 is close to the same location, being on the front of the firewall, passanger side bottom on the side of the tunnel.



Hence the ac coils in the box get below freezing, air is pulled across them, which freezes out the humidity in the air to form a slight ice layer on the coils. The ice turns back into water to drop to the bottom of the box as more humidity is pulled from that air each min the unit is running ,and if the melting water on the bottom of the air box is allowed to collect in the box/not drain out, then the coils is sitting in the standing water which do not allow the coils to get as cold as they should.

So again, as you go to park the car after running the A/C hard, the thin layer of ice on the coils should be melting off to drop down to the bottom of the box as ice when the car is not running, to drip off the exhaust pipe just under the drain tube, and make a piping noise for about a min or two as the last of the water melting off the coils is drained from the box. If your not hearing that, don't have a small puddle of water under the car after you park it for a few mins, the bank that the drain hose is clogged.

saplumr

If any evaporator temp drops below 32* ice will begin to form which clearly would indicate a malfunction of some sort whether it be low refrigerant or inadequate air flow. Ice will never form on a properly operating evaporator coil. AC's are dehumidifiers by design and constantly have water condensing but never ice. Ice is the enemy of any refrigeration system other than some freezers.