Who all installed their own headers?
07-28-2017, 03:01 PM
#21
Pro
About to undertake this job myself, is there a special tool for the O2 sensor? And also, I see in the picture about that Redsee5 has his spark plug wires in the order they came off, Is this necessary? They look all the same. Thanks in advance for your replies
07-28-2017, 03:16 PM
#22
Instructor
Just use a wrench to take out the O2. take out the plugs or you will crack the ceramic on them if you hit them. All the plug wires are the same
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biker1059 (07-28-2017)
07-28-2017, 03:47 PM
#23
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2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
And don't worry about the rear (after-cat) O2 sensors ... You don't need them.
Just install a threaded plug into the holes on your new x-pipe where the rear O2 sensors would normally be screwed in.
Without the rear O2 sensors, you will get a check engine light, but that light can be kept from coming on by the guy that does your dyno tuning using a laptop computer (basically removed from the program).
The car does not need these rear O2 sensors, and will not run in a degraded mode without them.
Now, all you will need is the 2 wire extensions for the 2 forward (pre-cat) O2 sensors.
Just install a threaded plug into the holes on your new x-pipe where the rear O2 sensors would normally be screwed in.
Without the rear O2 sensors, you will get a check engine light, but that light can be kept from coming on by the guy that does your dyno tuning using a laptop computer (basically removed from the program).
The car does not need these rear O2 sensors, and will not run in a degraded mode without them.
Now, all you will need is the 2 wire extensions for the 2 forward (pre-cat) O2 sensors.
07-28-2017, 09:40 PM
#24
Le Mans Master
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Harbor Freight has the 02 sensor sockets and maybe just me but I would use one, the sensors are expensive. Pre soak them with Liquid Wrench or something similar, mine were tough to get out so we used the air ratchet, that worked
I probably over thought it but I bought these to remove the plug wires/boots as some said they can be stuck on the plugs pretty tight.
NSF
07-28-2017, 10:14 PM
#26
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And to add with what NSF said ... These 'Carbon Fiber Matte Pattern' fuel rail covers were discontinued by GM about 4 years ago.
If you can find a set, they will be $$$$$ new-old stock (NOS).
P/N was 19159030 for the set.
_______________________________
And to add ... As far as I know, they were only made for the wet-sump engines. They all had the hole in the passengers side cover that the oil fill cap sticks out of.
.
If you can find a set, they will be $$$$$ new-old stock (NOS).
P/N was 19159030 for the set.
_______________________________
And to add ... As far as I know, they were only made for the wet-sump engines. They all had the hole in the passengers side cover that the oil fill cap sticks out of.
.
Last edited by Turbo6TA; 07-28-2017 at 10:24 PM.
07-28-2017, 10:27 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
DONE! Thank god! It went extremely easy at first but turned annoying really fast. Nothing too hard to handle, though. The xpipe female sleeves wouldn't go over the male pipes initially(header collector and axleback.) I called my buddy, he came over and we rocked the hell out of the xpipe to get it to slide onto the male parts. The biggest pain was the dipstick. We had to grind the mount down with a dremel and dull sanding block to get it to clear the header primary. After we did that (about 30 min) we realized the flange coming off the bolt that secures the dipstick tube wouldn't clear the primary either. At this point I was insanely annoyed. We used a dull cutting wheel on a dremel (can you tell my dremel equipment is not in tip top condition haha) and cut off the flanges around the entire bolt.
Overall, this install was cake compared to a LT1 Fbody. It is TOTALLY worth doing. I have read at least 18" of clearance is needed while installing on jackstands. I had 14" clearance and had zero issues. As for the plug wires, my buddy who came over (mechanic) said it doesn't matter. The car sounds insanely mean now (TSP 1 7/8 non catted xpipe) to a corsa sport axleback.
Overall, this install was cake compared to a LT1 Fbody. It is TOTALLY worth doing. I have read at least 18" of clearance is needed while installing on jackstands. I had 14" clearance and had zero issues. As for the plug wires, my buddy who came over (mechanic) said it doesn't matter. The car sounds insanely mean now (TSP 1 7/8 non catted xpipe) to a corsa sport axleback.
07-28-2017, 10:29 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Biker1059, if you have any questions feel free to PM me. I'm not on here often, but I'm willing to help if I can. Don't get discouraged. It's not a hard job at all, it's an annoying job lol.
08-01-2017, 03:38 PM
#33
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NSF
08-01-2017, 03:46 PM
#34
Le Mans Master
No on the lock tight but yes on the anti-seize, sparingly thou. Lots of guys say no but if you bought Kooks they supply all Stage 8 hardware for the install. Reference the 1:25 second mark on this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m29dYvTT0E
For spark plugs straight from the makers mouths no anti-seize, they now have a coating on them to prevent seizing, but thread them very carefully. I have to admit I put the smallest amount on mine
NSF
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m29dYvTT0E
For spark plugs straight from the makers mouths no anti-seize, they now have a coating on them to prevent seizing, but thread them very carefully. I have to admit I put the smallest amount on mine
NSF
08-01-2017, 06:33 PM
#36
Le Mans Master
08-01-2017, 09:08 PM
#38
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Yes, an friggin humid now as monsoon season is upon us 
Having a T-Storm move in as we speak 
These desert cells don't last too long but they can be very violent
Like the guy from New York City said about the rents,
""The heat is too damn high"" can't even escape to my garage.
But the beer is cold
Bobby
Having a T-Storm move in as we speak These desert cells don't last too long but they can be very violentLike the guy from New York City said about the rents,
""The heat is too damn high"" can't even escape to my garage.
But the beer is cold
Bobby
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Bruze (08-01-2017)
08-01-2017, 10:14 PM
#39
If you are saying you installed long tubes in an hour start to finish including removal of OE equipment, please remind me to hire you next time. I did my own on jack stands and it took me 5 1/2 hours with no real hiccups. You da man!
08-02-2017, 09:42 AM
#40
Originally Posted by cstapp99
If you are saying you installed long tubes in an hour start to finish including removal of OE equipment, please remind me to hire you next time. I did my own on jack stands and it took me 5 1/2 hours with no real hiccups. You da man!