C-6 Cluch pedal fell to floor
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
C-6 Cluch pedal fell to floor
Took a long ride and on the return, went to shift, and couldn't find the clutch pedal. pulled over in a sfe place and saw the pedal was all the way down on the floor. Checked the clutch fluid reservoir and it was full, and fluid was clean. Didn't see any fluid on ground, so I am thinking it is the Clutch master cylinder gone bad. Question is, how bad is it to replace? Car was flatbedded home to my garage. I have to add it is a 2006 with 7K miles. I would like to do the repair here myself. The cylinder is about $100.00 online. Any tips, hints, Help? I am in Massachusetts a bit west of Boston.
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
#4
Burning Brakes
There is a TSB #14717. You have to tell them to look it up. You will need your VIN. I don't know how many years a TSB is good for. My buddy just had is 08 covered for the same issue...as well as many others.
Last edited by Curt D; 08-10-2017 at 08:04 PM.
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carl3989 (08-12-2017)
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks
#6
Race Director
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2024 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C6 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
2020 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
from the TSB........................
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs to correct the condition described in this bulletin are to be submitted to the dealer by September 30, 2016, unless otherwise specified by state law. If this is not convenient for the customer, the customer may mail the completed Customer Reimbursement Request Form and all required documents to the GM Customer Assistance Center. Repairs must have occurred within the 10 years of the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, or 120,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs to correct the condition described in this bulletin are to be submitted to the dealer by September 30, 2016, unless otherwise specified by state law. If this is not convenient for the customer, the customer may mail the completed Customer Reimbursement Request Form and all required documents to the GM Customer Assistance Center. Repairs must have occurred within the 10 years of the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, or 120,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
#7
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2024 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C6 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
2020 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
TSB is attached here......................
Last edited by rkj427; 12-01-2018 at 11:18 PM.
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#8
Racer
from the TSB........................
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs to correct the condition described in this bulletin are to be submitted to the dealer by September 30, 2016, unless otherwise specified by state law. If this is not convenient for the customer, the customer may mail the completed Customer Reimbursement Request Form and all required documents to the GM Customer Assistance Center. Repairs must have occurred within the 10 years of the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, or 120,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs to correct the condition described in this bulletin are to be submitted to the dealer by September 30, 2016, unless otherwise specified by state law. If this is not convenient for the customer, the customer may mail the completed Customer Reimbursement Request Form and all required documents to the GM Customer Assistance Center. Repairs must have occurred within the 10 years of the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, or 120,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
#10
Pro
Sorry about your bad luck with GM on getting it under the TSB. I understand that there is a upgraded part that GM uses and that there are other non OEM parts that are better. You might check around a little when you do it yourself and see.
#12
Instructor
Took a long ride and on the return, went to shift, and couldn't find the clutch pedal. pulled over in a sfe place and saw the pedal was all the way down on the floor. Checked the clutch fluid reservoir and it was full, and fluid was clean. Didn't see any fluid on ground, so I am thinking it is the Clutch master cylinder gone bad. Question is, how bad is it to replace? Car was flatbedded home to my garage. I have to add it is a 2006 with 7K miles. I would like to do the repair here myself. The cylinder is about $100.00 online. Any tips, hints, Help? I am in Massachusetts a bit west of Boston.
I worry about this happening also. Lingenfelter sells a "Clutch return spring" wondering if this would solve the problem?
#14
Race Director
His car is outside the TSB time frame. He's going to have to foot the bill himself. I just had the same issue, but my car is still within the "10 years from the in-service date" so my dealer covered 100% of the repairs, and did a very good job at that.
#15
Le Mans Master
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Yeah me too. This and the harmonic balancer. You get the feeling that it is just a matter of time before one of the two happens, or both. When I was shopping for a 2012/13 C6 I figured Chevy must of ironed out any problems from the earlier C6's along the way. Disappointing to find out later, from research on the forum, that they never addressed any of the known issues.
#16
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Follow up to problem
Bought new cylinder online for about $90 + change. Jacked the car up, put it on stands, and took the drivers side wheel and lower wheel well housing off. Took a look at the limited space to work for removal and almost gave up. But after pondering, I disconnected the clutch rod from the pin on the pedal, pulled the clip on the quick connects between the master and the line to the slave, and wiggled and pulled and threaded the master out through the small access area. Pulled the reservoir down between the master brake reservoir and the windshield washer fill neck, and it was out. Reversed the procedure to do the install with little to no problemo, until it came time to reconnect the quick connect between the master and the slave lines. That little spring clip gave me about an hours hard time, as it is literally impossible to see that fitting with your hand in the access trying to get the spring clip in place. Dropped it a few times but only on the frame and was able to recover it. Anyways after an hour of trying, finally had it snap back in place. Connected the clutch rod to the pedal and gave it a test drive. I swear the car shifts more smoothly now, and I believe that old master must have been weak for some time.. Thanks everyone for the help, and if anyone needs to do this replacement in the future, give me a shout, I may have some tips for you to make life a bit easier!
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#17
Drifting
Definitely clutch master or slave. I don't remember which went bad on my 427 but it did leave me dead in the middle of the road in the exact same scenario. Covered under warranty so I couldn't tell ya how much it ran.
Good luck with the repair!
Good luck with the repair!
#19
Race Director
Glad to hear you got yours sorted out.
#20
Advanced
Mine's probably right at the cut off of the 10 year mark. Not sure if I can look up when it was placed in service? Got me wondering now what the difference feels like. I don't have any issues otherwise. Did it affect the feel of rowing through the gears?