Not So Fast

So after grabbing breakfast yesterday I noticed a lot of water coming from underneath the car and a sizzling sound when I parked in the garage, turned out to be the water dripping because of the humidity, right on top of the headers collector.
So then I thought I better take a look at the HB as it did have a little wobble before. Well now its worse, much more so IMHO, so I just ordered the Power Bond PB1117SS from Summit (best price) and new belts, bolt, and seal from GMParts Center on line, quite a savings over my local GM dealers price. QUITE A BIT !!!!!!!!!!!!
So the job will be happening next week hopefully, not by me thou, a local reputable shop
Wish me luck, I get nervous when some one is going to be doing things to my car
NSF
Oh and as a footnote, the owner said he couldn't guarantee it wouldnt wobble again if we used the OEM part, I told him I bought the Power Bond unit and he said great, it will be perfect then

windyC6

Good Luck !! I need to do the same thing but my procrastinating butt will probably wait till I see it come through the hood and then complain about it....LOL.

Dragon Tamer

Good luck! This is next on my list. Let us know how it goes. What bolt did you get?

BlindSpot

Hey Bobby - You've got this handled. You'll be better in no time. Powerbond you've chosen is a good one. I've used same on my boosted app. It did the job.

Best,

Not So Fast

Well I procrastinated on this quite a bit, but after talking to one of our esteemed^^^^^^^ members I went with the GM new OEM bolt. He seemed to think it to be of equal quality so after looking at prices I made the call
ARP $34
OEM $4 (my stealership wanted $10.72)
All in all with shipping& tax I'm in at $307, plus estimate of $600 for labor comes out to $907
Stealership quoted me $1091 using the GM balancer that we all know is a piece of **** plus whatever they would have charged me for new belts and seal, probably another $150 on top of the $1091
If it all works out then I'll be a happy camper, this damn balancer situation has kept me up at nite
NSF

Dragon Tamer

That labor quote is pretty good - my shop is at $800. I'm not sure about using the GM bolt though - think I will still go with the ARP unit. Parts cost at Summit/GMParts is a good deal.
Thanks for the reply.

Bruze

Bobby: How many miles you got on the car?

billyboy47

Hey! That was my question, bug off.

Bruze

Go away! Old coots are not allowed in this thread!

HBsurfer

The GM bolt is fine. Only draw back is it can only be used once, which I don't consider a big deal at all. Make sure your installer knows the proper torque for the GM bolt. If I recall, it was 36# plus rotating an additional 140 degrees. As long as he gets the proper torque, you will never have to worry about that HB again.
Sometimes I look at mine just to watch it spin smoothly.

billyboy47

HBsurfer

FWIW, replaced mine at 25,000 miles

Not So Fast

See Blindspots threads on "Bolts", he has done it and I trust his judgment, hell, at $4 @ its still a high grade bolt, and it isn't the bolt that fails its the **** part HB that GM used for 7 years, right
Plus if the owner of the shop doesn't like the OEM bolt I can buy the ARP right around d the corner LOL only out $4

Just turned 30K Bruce. It had a very slight wobble when I first checked it about 2 years ago, its now worse and I don't want to chance it since I can definitely see it has increased. If it were the same I would probably leave it.
NSF

Not So Fast

I have that question written down to ask the installer. In another thread one member said just turn up the pressure on the big air impact and call it a day, to which I asked has anyone ever done that and then checked torque values Those big impact wrenches hit hard as hell so I was wondering ???
Thanks
NSF

HBsurfer

I did mine three years ago so I am not positive about the specs I noted above, but it was definitely a low torque # plus the 140 degrees.

Not So Fast

I seem to remember some one quoting the torque value at 240# Seems excessive to me

Bruze

Although there are a lot of things on cars that really don't have to be torqued (unless you have no mechanical experience, or were a blacksmith in an earlier life) I would do this one by the book.

corvettecolin

No, No.No. do not do that, a sure recipe for failure. Find correct spec, it's a certain torque plus so many degrees. Garage rattle gunned mine and it came loose within a couple of weeks.

HBsurfer

That is for the ARP bolt.
GM bolt will need torque plus a degree finder

TorchRedFred

NSF, could this possibly be a good time to do the cam you have been considering?