2nd day car buying blues
10-15-2017, 10:30 PM
#42
Le Mans Master
10-15-2017, 10:35 PM
#43
and does anyone know if the denali one is the same caliber as the vettes??? Asking because difference in pricing i know for my ls1 firebird the truck alternator was much better and cheaper than the standard ls1
10-15-2017, 10:36 PM
#44
10-15-2017, 10:40 PM
#46
well when i charged the battery i noticed the car was in accessory mode the battery was completely drain but when i went to start it all i heard it one loud click sounds like a typical starter not like the first time it went out
10-15-2017, 10:49 PM
#47
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2014
Location: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
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Still not clear as to what happened, but if the battery was drained it is probably shot.
You said you had it load tested last week. Were they sure that it was okay? (either way, it probably isn't okay now).
You said you had it load tested last week. Were they sure that it was okay? (either way, it probably isn't okay now).
10-16-2017, 12:18 AM
#48
Yes but now when i try to start it I hear just hear clicking so just dont want to blow 200 on a battery if it wont resolve the issue I drove the car all this weekend just sucks to have a starter go out in a week
10-16-2017, 01:26 AM
#49
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2014
Location: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
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Take the battery somewhere else and have them load test it. Maybe it was okay before and maybe it wasn't.
Since then, if you left the hatch open all night with the trunk lights on (is that what happened?) and the battery was drained the next day, it probably IS shot now. But have it re-tested so you know for sure before buying a new one. FWIW, they're much closer to $100 than $200.
Maybe the battery was the original problem and it wasn't tested correctly, who knows at this point. But I doubt if a new starter is shot after a week. Was it new (OEM?) or was it a rebuilt Mexican or Chinese starter?
10-16-2017, 09:33 AM
#50
Le Mans Master
Especially since all the lights go out after 20 minutes even if a door or the hatch is open. I've accidentally left my hatch open for days and the battery was just fine. In fact I dislike the idea the lights go out so soon because sometimes I am still doing stuff and need the light.
Last edited by FortMorganAl; 10-16-2017 at 09:34 AM.
10-16-2017, 10:32 AM
#51
Racer
Fob box in glove box is not easy to see. Do above and bend down a little to see it.
It may not be the batt., but in more than half the cases of no-start, it is the culprit---that's for new batts., 6 mos. old, 1 yr. old, etc.
When/if you disconnect or loosen the batt. cables, be very careful NOT to lose the nuts on the ends of the cable/clamp. They are slightly conical (the nuts) and push in the clamp to the batt. terminal. If you lose it, and use a flat nut, it will not sufficiently tighten the clamp on the terminal. Note: when you loosen clamps at batt., check to see if terminal and inside clamp portion are clean. If not, clean them with baking soda and water before re-clamping/tightening.
The suggestion to get the batt. load tested is a good one; it's free at just about any chain auto parts store.
The thoughts on jump start/car works and trickle/maintainer charge and car lights up but won't start, are also correct. Enough juice to turn on lights is minimal compared to the draw of juice to start a car. And jumping a car is using the other vehicle's batt. and engine.
Do you have an owner's manual? Is your key fob really not stock? There should be an internal, removable key in its base that pulls out (with difficulty). It will open the rear hatch/trunk. There is a pull cord on the left side inside the trunk/hatch. Pull it and it will open the driver's door. But those instructions are all in the owner's manual.
I can't speak for the clutch position switch since it doesn't seem to go out very frequently and am not sure you have a manual or automatic car.
Good luck. Come back and tell us what you find out.
It may not be the batt., but in more than half the cases of no-start, it is the culprit---that's for new batts., 6 mos. old, 1 yr. old, etc.
When/if you disconnect or loosen the batt. cables, be very careful NOT to lose the nuts on the ends of the cable/clamp. They are slightly conical (the nuts) and push in the clamp to the batt. terminal. If you lose it, and use a flat nut, it will not sufficiently tighten the clamp on the terminal. Note: when you loosen clamps at batt., check to see if terminal and inside clamp portion are clean. If not, clean them with baking soda and water before re-clamping/tightening.
The suggestion to get the batt. load tested is a good one; it's free at just about any chain auto parts store.
The thoughts on jump start/car works and trickle/maintainer charge and car lights up but won't start, are also correct. Enough juice to turn on lights is minimal compared to the draw of juice to start a car. And jumping a car is using the other vehicle's batt. and engine.
Do you have an owner's manual? Is your key fob really not stock? There should be an internal, removable key in its base that pulls out (with difficulty). It will open the rear hatch/trunk. There is a pull cord on the left side inside the trunk/hatch. Pull it and it will open the driver's door. But those instructions are all in the owner's manual.
I can't speak for the clutch position switch since it doesn't seem to go out very frequently and am not sure you have a manual or automatic car.
Good luck. Come back and tell us what you find out.
Hi,
Just a slight correction about the key fob... the OP says he has a 2007. In 2007 the key is not a removable key in its base that pulls out... from 2005-2007 it was a separate key not embedded in the fob.
Key fob from my 2007:
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the kid C6 (11-28-2017)
10-16-2017, 12:07 PM
#52
Pro
Replace the battery. It was probably the problem the whole time....corvettes are very tempermental about electrical power...weak batteries tend to throw false codes and cause start problems.
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WideVette (10-16-2017)
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WideVette (10-16-2017)
10-16-2017, 12:29 PM
#54
Unless of course it has already been properly charged and load checked out of the car by a reputable place. Years back Sam's Club (near me anyway) started requiring the battery be charged and checked in a process that can take a few hours. Their battery supplier (Interstate -Energizer/Duracell) was questioning why they had so many returned batteries. Their previous "quick check" was not always adequate, similarly to if you simply slow charge it at home. It really needs a full cycle test with a load put on it to rule out completely.
Batteries can cause the oddest things to happen. And routinely fail prematurely. As a new car to you, you don't have the benefit of the history. Was the newish battery allowed to drain down? Freeze? Exposed to extreme summer temps?
Rule out the simple things first.
10-16-2017, 12:31 PM
#55
10-16-2017, 12:39 PM
#56
Burning Brakes
You can load test a battery and still have a better that doesn't hold a charge. They don't test for internal shorts. My brothers battery was a few months old and started to go dead overnight..It load tested good. He exchanged it for a new batt and all was back to normal.
10-16-2017, 04:45 PM
#57
Well I understand how you guys felt it was the battery and I do understand it be better to replace to cover all your bases I guess it worth a shot I will buy a new starter with it also. Just hate to spend money guessing
10-16-2017, 04:50 PM
#58
DON'T just buy a battery! Get yours checked by a place (probably free) that does a thorough check including under load. You really went to the hassle of a starter already? Check the easy/obvious. We'd all like you to save some grief and money!
Last edited by WideVette; 10-16-2017 at 04:51 PM.
10-16-2017, 05:02 PM
#60