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2009 Z51. Auto Trans.
After a supercharger install I've noticed engine temps running a little high. Any recommendations on an after market vented hood.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I can tell you that for regular street use, my vented hood (ZL1 vent) did maybe 1-2 degrees cooler. It's more for aero than cooling. Now if you do something like an LG World Challenge hood, maybe it will help some, but honestly I think you're better off doing radiator, fans, etc than a hood if cooling is your concern.
The OP wanted advice on a vented hood so I provided a link to a thread where many C6 owners were happy with their forced induction temps dropping due to the installation of the Camaro vent.
Last edited by choppychop; 10-19-2017 at 11:48 PM.
By far the greatest heat transfer is in the radiator. Cooling the engine compartment won't do much. Focus on the radiator area if you want to affect the temps.
Thanks for all of the input, I have a Z51 2009 Auto transmission. On the supercharger and cam install, a trans cooler and new radiator plus the 160 deg thermostat was installed. In city traffic the temps creep to 230 to 240. If I shut the AC off the temp drops a little. The install shop told me a vented hood would help but I don't want to dish out a couple of thousand dollars for a vented hood with the paint if it's not going to help. TY
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
Vented hood is not going to help in city traffic. I'm guessing your temps are fine when driving on the highway. If so, check out D3 Performance, they have an updated fan setup using a custom fan shroud and SPAL fans that should fix your issue. I have not had to go this far yet as my sitting in traffic temps are typically 220-230 depending on ambient temp.
Seems like a 160 therm would just open up sooner simply lengthening the warm up process and not necessarily keep the normal engine temp down once it reaches it ??
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by windyC6
Seems like a 160 therm would just open up sooner simply lengthening the warm up process and not necessarily keep the normal engine temp down once it reaches it ??
Correct, 160 stat really doesn't do much for keeping temps lower on a blower car. Maybe during the first 5-10 minutes of operation, but once warmed up the stat's going to be open all the time whether it's a 160 or 180.
Correct, 160 stat really doesn't do much for keeping temps lower on a blower car. Maybe during the first 5-10 minutes of operation, but once warmed up the stat's going to be open all the time whether it's a 160 or 180.
YUP.....but sometimes people don't get it. There are some opinions that you can get your temp down a little by running no therm, but the argument there is that it may not help because the water flow is too fast and it isn't in the rad long enough to cool down much, plus the fact that no therm is for summer driving only.....
1. Dewitts radiator that increases cooling capacity.
2. Dual fans that flow more than the oem fan.
3. Program fan or fans (if dual) to come on sooner, but not to the point
that they are on all the time.
4. Separate oil coolers, not integrated with radiator.
5. New water pump.
6. Front oem spoiler that helps direct air up into the radiator.
7. Clean A/C condenser and radiator from trapped dirt, leaves and yes, plastic bags.
8. 160 T-stat, only because full coolant flow starts sooner which help keep
temps down a little longer. However, once the T-stat is fully open and
coolant temps reach a certain point, it does not matter. At that point
it is all about drawing cooler air through the radiator. This is my
experience with both the 187* and 160* T-stat.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; 10-21-2017 at 12:58 PM.
10-19-2017, 10:33 AM
2009 c6 Vented Hood
My post above you details that doing that won't really decrease operating temps.
