xcaliber501

Hello everyone. I recently join because i am doing some research on perhaps purchasing an older model C6. A 2005-2007. Something I could buy for under $25k. This would be a car I would maintain myself. It would be a convertible, manual and have as little electronic gadgets as possible (IE no nav, etc) It would be a fair weather weekend car. A toy I would not drive everyday.

Are there any known issues I should be aware of? Specifically electronic or computer issues? Years ago I owned a 1995 LT1 C4. The biggest issue with that car was the Opti-spark system failing because of it's proximity to the water pump. I would hope that had been resolve 10-12 years later. My C4 also had door panel that fell apart. These are the items I would be interested in knowing about?

Thanks

JerriVette

Buy a nice looking c6 convertible with z51 suspension package if you can.

I'd suggest mileage means very little.

My purchased new 2008 c6 z51 manual coupe now has 114k miles and it's been utterly reliable as a daily driver.

My suggestion is not to be afraid of a higher mileage car.

My 114k mike example has needed very little maintaince. It's my daily driver and basically it's a waterpump about 20k miles ago....no big deal, a new 42 month delco battery every 3 years, spark plugs and OEM spark plug wires every 50 or 60k ..change the oil with Mobil one when the D.IC. Says to..

Figure tires every 20k miles ..and I'm still on the original clutch at 114k miles..

Try and find a guy selling who just got the bug for a c7...most corvette owners take better care of their cars then themselves...

Just find the right seller..

Your target price for an 07 c6 z51 manual convertible should be 20 grand with under 100k miles ..

If you find a clean example with over 100k miles don't shy away...for less money...these cars are bulletproof...

2008 was a good year too...and have a slightly better interior, a few extra hp, and slightly better steering feel...

25 grand is too high a price ..imho...

Just saw a black c6 2008 coupe with 159k miles be purchased for 10 grand...and if you search that thread...I'd suggest he made a smart choice...

Mileage means nothing here ..these cars are rock solid dependable..

I may never sell mine as it looks brand new, has 114k miles, has been utterly reliable and it's resale is so low why even bother..

I'd only sell at this point because I get the bug for a 650 hp c7 z06 or possibly a rear mid engine c8 with a DCT..

Welcome to the site..have fun shopping...

Great choice ..just spend less on purchase...

25 is a little high for what your looking for..

Jmo

Racer1735

As mentioned above, finding the right owner/seller is key. That goes a long way towards finding a Vette that's been properly cared for. I bought a 2005 coupe this past summer with 66,000. Normally wouldn't by a car with that many miles, but when you consider its just 5,500 per year, its not so bad. And the car was in tip-top shape.

ruxvette

Wow..."Your target price for an 07 c6 z51 manual convertible should be 20 grand with under 100k miles..."

"Your target price for an 07 c6 z51 manual convertible should be 20 grand with under 100k miles..." That may be your target price but I think you purchase price will be higher.

A quick search on autotrader shows 8 cars with Z51, vert, man trans, 2005-2007 with asking price of $25k...with the cheapest at $22.5k. Just me, but I think that is your price range...$20-25k ASKING price and deal from there.

Any of the three years are good cars. The '05 had the reverse shutdown and potential column lock issue.
Remember, reading the forum will make it sound like ALL C6's have reliability issues. I've put 60,000 miles total on my '05 and my '11 and I have yet to start a post "Nothing broke on my vette today".

Enjoy the search.

extrapilot

Check list for shopping for a corvette from my observations reading posts here.
Check Harmonic crankshaft balancer for out of roundness and belt chirping noise.
Check for oil pan seeping issues, some seep but never leave a mark on the ground.
Pull the dip stick and note the color of the oil, as it should be light brown to a darker brown, but not gray, this could indicate metallic particles in the oil.
Check the radiator lower supports in the front as they can get damaged from close encountors with a curb and can break the welds loose.
Check for strong fuel odor around the left rear tire, as some have developed a fuel leak at the left side fuel tank and/or the fuel pump assembly.
While idling the car, there should not be unusual rattling noises coming from underneath the car, as toque tube bearings and couplers can be bad with higher mileage cars.
While driving and releasing the clutch, be sure that transition is smooth with no chattering.
Stock clutches can last over a 100k miles, provided the operators have not abused it up until then.
Car should road test without squeaks and rattles, as I find mine as very quite, only issue is the that targa tops can creak and is usually a easy fix.
Also the end links have been know to clunk over bumps, but another easy fix
Rear diff have been know to make chattering noises when turning sharply, but usually a gear oil change with the correct oil can solve this issue.
Axle nuts sometimes will become loose and can create creaking noise in the rear end, another easy fix.
If the car is equipped with a HUD, make sure that the display positioning feature works smoothly, as the mirror inside the units can be a problem.
If the car includes a NAV system, make sure that you get the DVD disc with the car, as newly released ones are a bit costly.
Make sure that the ac and heat work and come out the correct vent when going through the operations of the controls. The bellows in the dash can go bad, and this is a rough job to do and expensive if done at the dealership.
Obviously the trans should shift smoothly, but while cold, they can be notchy but should shift better within 10 to 15 miles or so. Check the operation in going into reverse, as there is a synchronize that have given issues recently reported.
The first year 2005's do have a weaker rear end diff, and was updated with the next year models.
If you don't plan to mod the car, this is not really a issue though.
Automatic cars are much easier on the rear diff.(A4)
Since your looking for a vert, most would
probably have a higher trim level package, like the 3LT.

Good luck with your search..

xcaliber501

Hey guys. Thanks for the responses. The 'Vette is actually my second choice. I really want to get a Shelby Cobra Replica. But I am finding out that that is damn near a $50k proposition. ($20-23k for the kit, $12-15k for the drivetrain, $9k+ for the paint and bodywork) I am finding I just don't want to spend that kind of money on a car, even though the Cobra is so iconic.

It is nice to know I can back off $25k and start thinking $20-$22. I actually did a quick search on Cars.com and found a 2009 manual vert with 84K miles with a asking price of $22.9k. So perhaps the older C6s aren't as expensive as I first thought. All the better.

At some point there was a minor refresh where they upped the HP and updated the interior. When did that happen and is it worth spending a little more for it?

Also, a few years ago I owned a CTS-V that had that "first to fourth" shift "feature" on the transmission. Is that something I would also have to deal with on the vettes?

extrapilot

2008 is the year of changes made to the engine, upping the size, to the LS3, trans was also changed to a "smoother" shifting one.

Yes all vette's have the skip shift, but can be easily bypassed.

This site can be of help with info on the C6.

http://www.c6registry.com/facts/

Rapid Fred

That 2009 is in your sweet spot and you can probably get a discount to boot. Having owned an '05 and now driving an '08, I would agree that the minor improvements are well worth the few extra bucks you would pay for a post-2007 C6 with the same mileage as an older one.

That "skip shift" feature is way less obtrusive on my C6 than it was on my C5's, which were less intrusive than my C4. It really is a non-issue to me.

Normally I would suggest asking a local expert check out any Vette you are looking at; usually worth the money for the peace of mind. You sound like a knowledgeable and careful guy so may not be necessary.

Good luck...

ben z

I looked at a lot of cars before I bought my '08. It's a manual, LT2, had 24K one-owner miles on it, but it's a coupe. I paid $25K including 4 new tires, from Carmax, last January. I would imagine by now you should be able to find a convertible for that amount, with low miles, perhaps from a private owner especially with winter coming up north.

The '08 has the LS3, better shifter action, what I consider a more upscale dash trim, and the stock radio has an aux input that you can easily plug in a BT/handsfree-A2DP adapter without any disasselbly of the dash. That's not to disparage earlier models, they're all good. But if you're willing to spend $25K you definitely can go newer than '07.

Randy_in_MD

I just bought a 2011 convertible with 68k miles for $25k. It's an LT1...which means pretty bare bones...but you said you were looking to avoid excess gadgetry. Keep looking you will find "the one".

Roblutts

Great choice in a M6 vert C6. I bought my '07 back in May and was looking for the same. Extrapilot's list is spot on and probably the most common issue is the harmonic balancer. Research it on here and you will find videos of what it looks/sounds like when it's bad. Not a huge deal, but can set you back at least a grand. Mine's a LT3 and while I'm with you regarding nav and such, I recently discovered how nice it is to have heated seats in a vert when the temperature cools. I turned them on for the first time in 69 (no nasty jokes here) degree weather in Dallas, TX one evening last weekend. Felt great and appreciated that feature. HUD is nice also, but bare bones is great. Good luck and this place is the ultimate resource! I'm getting up early to wash/clay/polish/wax. Mine's triple black and they need tons of attention - much like a woman!

nick14003

Got an 05. Minimal to no issues...
If your planning on adding large amounts of power, get an 06 or 07


LT1 package of course has the least electronics and extras

My LT3 Heads up display went bad, (very common) fixed it myself.
Other than that, no real electronic issues I notice.

05 LT1 would be your best bet, lowest cost, lowest insurance, pretty much same everything
Although it might be near impossible to find an 05, LT1, the color you want, manual, and convetable all at once.

xcaliber501

Thanks everyone for your replies. Since it looks like I can go newer and still be within my budget I plan on getting one from the refresh years 2008-2010. The reason I want to stay away from all the electronics is I want to get back to a more pure driving experience. Navigation, heads up displays, automatic transmissions etc.. tend to isolate the driver. I don't want that. I want to be fully engaged when I get behind the wheel. Some things are good mainly traction control and anti-lock brakes. Other than that, just give me the basics. Not only that but these high tech items are the ones that break down over time or get obsoleted. I mean who wants a 10 year old navigation system? The NAV on my phone is light years more advanced.

I do intend to do some minor performance enhancements. Like a top end kit and perhaps a mild cam. But nothing beyond that. But I don't need to get into that for the time being. I can research that once I have a car to modify.