ksvette74

Ok, I pulled the trigger. On the 350 mile drive (first leg to get it home) was great, but had a few issues.

Issue one: Ck engine light came on, right after filling up with gas. I had it scanned, O'Reilys said it was a MAF code, and showed history. reset it, did not return

Issue two: I am not used to the pedal placement, seems different than my C5. My foot pulled up on the brake when I went to move it. No problem, I got my foot out of their, no near crash or issued just a learning curve. However, as soon as my foot lifted the pedal, the service vehicle soon message appeared. I stopped the car, cleared it, shut it off and on, no problem. I then did it again (pushing the brake pedal up) this time on purpose, and sure enough as soon as I did the message came back! After a mile or so, go the service active handling message. Upon scanning it (same scan, car off in accessory mode) it didn't show any codes or anything. Message did not return, active handling button would cycle through traction off, competition, both traction and active on, and both off if you held it. I chalked it up to don't lift up the brake pedal, but curios as to why. I also did punch it one time, and to my surprise the car burned out as if traction control was not functioning. Was fun, but unexpected.

For reference, car is a 2006 a6 3lt. Has bassani exhaust and a vararam. Not sure if anything else (nothing on the engine appears to be changed, so I am assuming stock otherwise). Any answers as to what the cause is, or if traction control behaves that way (letting you have a bit of fun) in the C6 would be appreciated. Also, if anyone knows the best place to get a cheap scanner (like one to work with my phone) I would like to know. I miss being able to pull codes on my C5.

Kenny94945

All kind of seems normal glitches....Since codes are not resetting.

I'd offer to check your battery condition, check battery cables.
Also crawl in the dash and check the "sensors"/ electrical items that engage with brake pedal movement for correct and tight install position.
Last, do a search on active handling warning code.....front hub "pigtails", steering stem "comb" fix.

Burn out, even w/AH, some wheel spin will occur.
Perhaps the tires are aged or they were cold which give less traction than new and hot.
Also verify tire pressure is not too high.

These are nice cars...congrats.

Jimmy W1

I'll tell you exactly what the engine light is from after you put gas in the car: You need a new gas cap. Go to NAPA and buy two. You'll probably be glad you had a spare. I usually change a couple a year.

The gaskets go bad/get crushed because they sit so long. If the engine light ever comes on and won't go out after you put gas in it, put the new one on- start the car and let it run about five minutes. See if I I'm not right. Save the NAPA cap when it goes bad. I bought some gaskets but they only work on the NAPA caps. I'm thinkin' about going into the gasket business.

SweetBlueZ51

My engine light comes on right after filling up with gas as well & the fuel gauge goes to empty. I was told years ago that this was due to a fuel level sensor in the tank & was expensive to fix, so I just live with it until the light goes off after a few restarts. Do you think a new gas cap would remedy this?

GRCTampa

Lots of threads on the gas cap issue. I found this advice reolved the issue for me:

See post #6 in
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...p-warning.html

See post #5 in
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...49-w-pics.html

Good luck and enjoy your C6!

Jimmy W1

My engine light comes on WITHOUT the "CHECK GAS CAP" message on the dash. If it comes on, I just change the gas cap. It's always gone out after a few minutes.

When I had the OEM gas cap, I would carefully take the gasket off and turn it over. It would work for a while. Someone on here mentioned an NAPA cap so I got one and it lasted longer than the OEM. But I still got tired of buying new ones all the time.

There is a Zatkoff seal and gasket sales near here. So I took a gasket from one of the NAPA caps down. The guy gave me three of them. He was nice to do that because they had "$40.00 minimum purchase " policy. It's been on there all this year so it's worked better than any so far. I plan on going back and buying $40.00 worth one day. I figure at $4-5.00 apiece I'll have a good supply. Or maybe I'll give a few away. Right now I have about a half dozen gas caps for my 2005 that I've owned since 2011.

The NAPA caps and the OEM seals are different and the gaskets I have only work on the NAPA caps.

Jimmy W1

By the way, Ralph Zatkoff played professional football for the Green Bay Packers. And he has a Topps football card.

ksvette74

Thanks! Tires are brand new, literally. But weather was a bit on the cool side for summer tires. So that could be it. I was figuring it may be something with brake position since it happened when I lifted up on the pedal. Just didn't know if that could cause that message.

owc6

I'm post #6, and this really has solved the "problem!"
I haven't had this problem for years, even a hundred thousand miles.

Pushing while tightening is the worst thing you can do, IMO

Tonylmiller

It will let you spin the tires a bit going straight. If you spin them in a corner it will really intervene. Hopefully not too late.

torquetube

You were unable to see the trouble code because it was set in the body or brake control module which are invisible to most generic scan tools.

The brake pedal position sensor (BPP) - a potentiometer on a Scotch yoke mounted above the pedal - may have gone out of range when you pulled up on the brake.

I suggest getting a Tech 2 knockoff so you can see all the codes and perform all the special functions. You can get one from Alibaba et al for $250 shipped to your door. Very worth having for a DIY C6 owner.