New sealant for new headlight lens
#1
Drifting
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New sealant for new headlight lens
I'm halfway through the install process for new headlight lenses and I would like an opinion from the Corvette community.
If you can backup your opinion with some expertise please state, but I welcome any and all opinions.
I ordered from Umnitza and they send a rubber butyl sealant (which I ordered) to seall the base to the clear lens.
My question is what is the OE sealant? The reason I am asking is because the old (a gray very firm unless hot) sealant was so easy to remove cleanly.
My current plan is to keep the car a DD for at least 20 more years. I would like the glue removal to be this easy again. (on my 12yr old '05)
Opinions >>
If you can backup your opinion with some expertise please state, but I welcome any and all opinions.
I ordered from Umnitza and they send a rubber butyl sealant (which I ordered) to seall the base to the clear lens.
My question is what is the OE sealant? The reason I am asking is because the old (a gray very firm unless hot) sealant was so easy to remove cleanly.
My current plan is to keep the car a DD for at least 20 more years. I would like the glue removal to be this easy again. (on my 12yr old '05)
Opinions >>
Last edited by Dutch08; 12-12-2017 at 05:19 PM.
#2
Race Car Tech
Based on my experience, I used PL Construction adhesive to install my new lenses. The OEM adhesive was difficult to remove, but it came out as one piece.
When I installed my lenses, after the Construction adhesive had cured, I ran a bead of clear silicone caulking around the perimeter between the new lens and the black headlight assembly, just be be sure that no water could ever get into the light.
A short time after I had installed my new lenses, I needed to remove one lens to repaint my bezel. For some reason, the paint had cracks in it that I had not noticed prior to installing my new lenses.
Once I removed the clear silicone, I used a heat gun and the new lens was easily removed and no adhesive remained in the channel. I did cut off the bottom part of the adhesive that stayed on the lens, just so I could add new adhesive into the channel when I re-installed the lens.
Once I did that, I again added clear silicone caulking around the perimeter as an added insurance against moisture ingress.
That is about 3 years now, and I've never had any issues with any moisture ingress etc.
As a note, RL Sebring uses PL construction adhesive when he installs new lenses.
When I installed my lenses, after the Construction adhesive had cured, I ran a bead of clear silicone caulking around the perimeter between the new lens and the black headlight assembly, just be be sure that no water could ever get into the light.
A short time after I had installed my new lenses, I needed to remove one lens to repaint my bezel. For some reason, the paint had cracks in it that I had not noticed prior to installing my new lenses.
Once I removed the clear silicone, I used a heat gun and the new lens was easily removed and no adhesive remained in the channel. I did cut off the bottom part of the adhesive that stayed on the lens, just so I could add new adhesive into the channel when I re-installed the lens.
Once I did that, I again added clear silicone caulking around the perimeter as an added insurance against moisture ingress.
That is about 3 years now, and I've never had any issues with any moisture ingress etc.
As a note, RL Sebring uses PL construction adhesive when he installs new lenses.
Last edited by 4SUMERZ; 12-12-2017 at 09:15 PM.
#3
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Based on my experience, I used PL Construction adhesive to install my new lenses. The OEM adhesive was difficult to remove, but it came out as one piece.
When I installed my lenses, after the Construction adhesive had cured, I ran a bead of clear silicone caulking around the perimeter between the new lens and the black headlight assembly, just be be sure that no water could ever get into the light.
A shoert yime after I had installed my new lenses, I needed to remove one lens to repaint my bezel. For some reason, the paint had cracks in it that I had not noticed prior to installing my new lenses.
Once I removed the clear silicone, I used a heat gun and the new lens was easily removed and no adhesive remined in the channel. I did cut off the bottom part of the adhesive that stayed on the lens, just so I could add new adhesive into the channel when I re-installed the lens.
Once I did that, I again added clear silicone caulking around the perimeter as an added insurance against moisture ingress.
That is about 3 years now, and I've never had any issues with any moisture ingress etc.
As a note, RL Sevring uses PL construction adhesive when he installs new lenses.
When I installed my lenses, after the Construction adhesive had cured, I ran a bead of clear silicone caulking around the perimeter between the new lens and the black headlight assembly, just be be sure that no water could ever get into the light.
A shoert yime after I had installed my new lenses, I needed to remove one lens to repaint my bezel. For some reason, the paint had cracks in it that I had not noticed prior to installing my new lenses.
Once I removed the clear silicone, I used a heat gun and the new lens was easily removed and no adhesive remined in the channel. I did cut off the bottom part of the adhesive that stayed on the lens, just so I could add new adhesive into the channel when I re-installed the lens.
Once I did that, I again added clear silicone caulking around the perimeter as an added insurance against moisture ingress.
That is about 3 years now, and I've never had any issues with any moisture ingress etc.
As a note, RL Sevring uses PL construction adhesive when he installs new lenses.
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Dutch08 (12-12-2017)
#5
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It must depend on how old it is. My 08 was a bear to remove. I wouldn't ever think I'd want to do it again.
#6
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The "grey stuff" that I had seems to be the one that is easiest to remove based on forum reports.
I you don't mind me asking, could you describe your sealant. (ie. color hardness when cold etc.) Some forum posts suggest that there are two types that were used by the Bowling Green the other was black ?????
My car is an early 05 so I'm thinking that the gray stuff that I would like to use again was used in the 05,06 ????
#7
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St. Jude Donor '17
Thank you for your reply.
The "grey stuff" that I had seems to be the one that is easiest to remove based on forum reports.
I you don't mind me asking, could you describe your sealant. (ie. color hardness when cold etc.) Some forum posts suggest that there are two types that were used by the Bowling Green the other was black ?????
My car is an early 05 so I'm thinking that the gray stuff that I would like to use again was used in the 05,06 ????
The "grey stuff" that I had seems to be the one that is easiest to remove based on forum reports.
I you don't mind me asking, could you describe your sealant. (ie. color hardness when cold etc.) Some forum posts suggest that there are two types that were used by the Bowling Green the other was black ?????
My car is an early 05 so I'm thinking that the gray stuff that I would like to use again was used in the 05,06 ????
I've been recommending and personally using Loc-Tite PL Polyurethane adhesive for 10 years no and never had any one report a problem. I got 9 years out of my lens and PL without issue and when the lens are removed all the PL remains on the lens leaving the channel clean and ready.
The big bonus with the PL is that there is no out-gas.
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Dutch08 (12-13-2017)
#8
Melting Slicks
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Thank you for your reply.
The "grey stuff" that I had seems to be the one that is easiest to remove based on forum reports.
I you don't mind me asking, could you describe your sealant. (ie. color hardness when cold etc.) Some forum posts suggest that there are two types that were used by the Bowling Green the other was black ?????
My car is an early 05 so I'm thinking that the gray stuff that I would like to use again was used in the 05,06 ????
The "grey stuff" that I had seems to be the one that is easiest to remove based on forum reports.
I you don't mind me asking, could you describe your sealant. (ie. color hardness when cold etc.) Some forum posts suggest that there are two types that were used by the Bowling Green the other was black ?????
My car is an early 05 so I'm thinking that the gray stuff that I would like to use again was used in the 05,06 ????
#9
POOP....I was hoping this thread was looking for a sealant to put on the actual lens after polishing it out. Don't intend to hi-jack this thread, but any opinions on a good sealant for the actual lens to protect from UV would be appreciated. Lots of products out there but haven't found one yet that actually works !!!!
#10
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POOP....I was hoping this thread was looking for a sealant to put on the actual lens after polishing it out. Don't intend to hi-jack this thread, but any opinions on a good sealant for the actual lens to protect from UV would be appreciated. Lots of products out there but haven't found one yet that actually works !!!!
Your question ..... Have you tried USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol or Duplicolor Clearcoat? I'm going to try a paint protection film but it'll be a couple of years before I know the outcome.
( I think you should also start your own thread because I have not found any information on this and I'm interested what other people are doing on this question. The title of this thread will not get you the information you (and now me) are looking for.)
Last edited by Dutch08; 12-13-2017 at 10:50 AM.
#11
No problem!!! After all, once RLSebring commented the thread was done. This is "THE" expert on this topic in my opinion.
Your question ..... Have you tried USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol or Duplicolor Clearcoat? I'm going to try a paint protection film but it'll be a couple of years before I know the outcome.
( I think you should also start your own thread because I have not found any information on this and I'm interested what other people are doing on this question. The title of this thread will not get you the information you (and now me) are looking for.)
Your question ..... Have you tried USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol or Duplicolor Clearcoat? I'm going to try a paint protection film but it'll be a couple of years before I know the outcome.
( I think you should also start your own thread because I have not found any information on this and I'm interested what other people are doing on this question. The title of this thread will not get you the information you (and now me) are looking for.)
#13
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I have used this stuff a bunch when I did retrofits for Hondas. Very easy to use and heats up great.
https://www.amazon.com/Second-Skin-D...s=rubber+butyl
https://www.amazon.com/Second-Skin-D...s=rubber+butyl
..... and the "Sponsored products related to this item" link is a gold mine of sealants other types of sealants like this.
#14
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Based on my experience, I used PL Construction adhesive to install my new lenses. The OEM adhesive was difficult to remove, but it came out as one piece.
When I installed my lenses, after the Construction adhesive had cured, I ran a bead of clear silicone caulking around the perimeter between the new lens and the black headlight assembly, just be be sure that no water could ever get into the light.
A short time after I had installed my new lenses, I needed to remove one lens to repaint my bezel. For some reason, the paint had cracks in it that I had not noticed prior to installing my new lenses.
Once I removed the clear silicone, I used a heat gun and the new lens was easily removed and no adhesive remained in the channel. I did cut off the bottom part of the adhesive that stayed on the lens, just so I could add new adhesive into the channel when I re-installed the lens.
Once I did that, I again added clear silicone caulking around the perimeter as an added insurance against moisture ingress.
That is about 3 years now, and I've never had any issues with any moisture ingress etc.
As a note, RL Sebring uses PL construction adhesive when he installs new lenses.
When I installed my lenses, after the Construction adhesive had cured, I ran a bead of clear silicone caulking around the perimeter between the new lens and the black headlight assembly, just be be sure that no water could ever get into the light.
A short time after I had installed my new lenses, I needed to remove one lens to repaint my bezel. For some reason, the paint had cracks in it that I had not noticed prior to installing my new lenses.
Once I removed the clear silicone, I used a heat gun and the new lens was easily removed and no adhesive remained in the channel. I did cut off the bottom part of the adhesive that stayed on the lens, just so I could add new adhesive into the channel when I re-installed the lens.
Once I did that, I again added clear silicone caulking around the perimeter as an added insurance against moisture ingress.
That is about 3 years now, and I've never had any issues with any moisture ingress etc.
As a note, RL Sebring uses PL construction adhesive when he installs new lenses.
Additionally, silicon (GE II is the best we've found) is a stop gap solution that is not as effective as the butyl based sealant.
The amazon link is a good alternative, it's half of what we provide for $20.
#15
Instructor
This is a very bad idea. PL construction adhesive dries hard and brittle. It's semi-permanent which leads to other issues later down the road should you have the need to re-open the lenses for any reason (bug gets into the lenses, debris, dust, etc.).
Additionally, silicon (GE II is the best we've found) is a stop gap solution that is not as effective as the butyl based sealant.
The amazon link is a good alternative, it's half of what we provide for $20.
Additionally, silicon (GE II is the best we've found) is a stop gap solution that is not as effective as the butyl based sealant.
The amazon link is a good alternative, it's half of what we provide for $20.
Window Weld is the best way to replace the OEM Sealant. It heats and seals great. It's what I have always used.
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info@umnitza.com (12-18-2017)
#16
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It's a super bad idea to use construction adhesive. You will never be able to open the lights again. I will tell you do not use straight Silicone as an alternative. You will possibly cloud your headlight with the fumes it puts out while drying. You can use it on the outside.. But never in the channel.
Window Weld is the best way to replace the OEM Sealant. It heats and seals great. It's what I have always used.
Window Weld is the best way to replace the OEM Sealant. It heats and seals great. It's what I have always used.
#17
Race Car Tech
3 different factory adhesives. Light grey, darker grey and black. all 3 can be easy or unbelievably difficult.
I've been recommending and personally using Loc-Tite PL Polyurethane adhesive for 10 years no and never had any one report a problem. I got 9 years out of my lens and PL without issue and when the lens are removed all the PL remains on the lens leaving the channel clean and ready.
The big bonus with the PL is that there is no out-gas.
I've been recommending and personally using Loc-Tite PL Polyurethane adhesive for 10 years no and never had any one report a problem. I got 9 years out of my lens and PL without issue and when the lens are removed all the PL remains on the lens leaving the channel clean and ready.
The big bonus with the PL is that there is no out-gas.
I guess use whatever you want. I just relayed my positive experience with PL
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Dutch08 (12-18-2017)