6-Speed Owners - Second Gear Shifting Difficulty
#21
Race Director
If the shifter box is not perfectly lined up, it can make some gears hard to use. Adjusting this can resolve the issue in many cases.
#22
Le Mans Master
#23
Race Director
Not really, no. You're not installing a shifter, just adjusting one that's already installed, so it's just a matter of making adjustments. You will have to pull the center console, though, in order to get to it.
#24
Go to your local auto supplies store. Buy a 10amp mini-blade "smart fuse" (the kind with a little LED in it). Take a knife or something and break the fuse link. Replace your Skip Shift fuse with the broken LED fuse and you're done. No CEL, not forced 1-4 shift.
The LED fuse provides just enough resistance to not throw a CEL. You will still see the 1-4 light but it does not lock you out.
The LED fuse provides just enough resistance to not throw a CEL. You will still see the 1-4 light but it does not lock you out.
Was going to just pull the fuse, but most people say it causes the CEL after a few starts. Unfortunately without a tuner, the reset will take 40 on/off cycles before it clears itself! If this is enough resistance to prevent the CEL and not have to mess around with resistors then I am game.
Edit: Is this a record? 10 year member badge and first post?!?
Last edited by PuckDracon; 01-06-2018 at 03:46 PM.
#25
Pro
Plan on trying this today, thanks.
Was going to just pull the fuse, but most people say it causes the CEL after a few starts. Unfortunately without a tuner, the reset will take 40 on/off cycles before it clears itself! If this is enough resistance to prevent the CEL and not have to mess around with resistors then I am game.
Edit: Is this a record? 10 year member badge and first post?!?
Was going to just pull the fuse, but most people say it causes the CEL after a few starts. Unfortunately without a tuner, the reset will take 40 on/off cycles before it clears itself! If this is enough resistance to prevent the CEL and not have to mess around with resistors then I am game.
Edit: Is this a record? 10 year member badge and first post?!?
#26
Racer
On a side note, I usually get stuck going into 3rd when revs are fairly high. I changed the **** with a GM 8-ball-style GS **** and the problem went away, but then I got the "rattle" effect after about 2k miles. I tried electrical-taping the shaft (that's what she said) and it helped for 1 day only; rattle back. Tried stuffing the ball with cotton. Tried Teflon tape. Nope. Put the OEM shifter **** back on. Sigh.
Might go with the MGW.
Might go with the MGW.
#27
On a side note, I usually get stuck going into 3rd when revs are fairly high. I changed the **** with a GM 8-ball-style GS **** and the problem went away, but then I got the "rattle" effect after about 2k miles. I tried electrical-taping the shaft (that's what she said) and it helped for 1 day only; rattle back. Tried stuffing the ball with cotton. Tried Teflon tape. Nope. Put the OEM shifter **** back on. Sigh.
Might go with the MGW.
Might go with the MGW.
Last edited by windyC6; 01-07-2018 at 10:44 AM.
#28
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2014
Location: Atlanta - - - - - Save the manuals
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On a side note, I usually get stuck going into 3rd when revs are fairly high. I changed the **** with a GM 8-ball-style GS **** and the problem went away, but then I got the "rattle" effect after about 2k miles. I tried electrical-taping the shaft (that's what she said) and it helped for 1 day only; rattle back. Tried stuffing the ball with cotton. Tried Teflon tape. Nope. Put the OEM shifter **** back on. Sigh.
Might go with the MGW.
Might go with the MGW.
After some changes it shifts like it should IMHO. This is a 05 with a T56
I did this ... YMMV
- Ranger method ... most difference in clutch feel, which helps me shift better, but does nothing for the shifter in the car.
- C5 clutch spring ... again affects clutch feel a bit, which helped me shift better.
- Venom mod ... One ring helps the lighten notchy feel of a shift. (I think some use two)
- MGW Shifter ... fixed my problems and after a bit of break in near perfect for me. ... worked because the rubber bushings holding the shifter in place where gone as and the previous owner had turned the shift box bushings upside down, which caused the rattle.
- Re-adjustment ... Helped the MGW a lot after break in. (FYI, They have a adjustment tool that I did not use.)
- Added a white cue ball shifter because I wanted a old school look ... which seemed to help the shifting probably because I have used a cue ball shifter since the 70's ... lol
- CAGS eliminator ... doesn't do anything for shifting ... unless you go slow and hate that 2nd gear lockout feel.
Worst case maybe this will give you some trouble shooting ideas. None of these changes are very hard.
Last edited by Dutch08; 01-07-2018 at 12:01 PM.
#29
1) check your clutch fluid. I bet its black. Swap it out with new fluid via turkey baster method. It takes DOT 4.
2) Whens the last time you changed your transmission fluid? From what I am reading, Mobil 1 ATF, Redline ATF, and Amsoil are the most recommended. I am running M1 and I love it - swapping to RL next.
3) 1->2 shift for most cars are always hard because thats the most "beat on" gear. The 2nd gear synchros are "crunchy" for lack of a better term. What seems to help is to get the car warmed up (trans temp above 100F from my dashcommand monitoring), and the car will shift like butter.
4) Ive also noticed (not placebo, Im sure...) that if I drive HARD the day before, the transmission shifts so much better. I suspect it has something to do with splash oiling everything on high RPM shifts?
2) Whens the last time you changed your transmission fluid? From what I am reading, Mobil 1 ATF, Redline ATF, and Amsoil are the most recommended. I am running M1 and I love it - swapping to RL next.
3) 1->2 shift for most cars are always hard because thats the most "beat on" gear. The 2nd gear synchros are "crunchy" for lack of a better term. What seems to help is to get the car warmed up (trans temp above 100F from my dashcommand monitoring), and the car will shift like butter.
4) Ive also noticed (not placebo, Im sure...) that if I drive HARD the day before, the transmission shifts so much better. I suspect it has something to do with splash oiling everything on high RPM shifts?
#30
Advanced
Thread Starter
I made an appointment with a local tuning shop on Monday to get the 1-4 shift tuned out permanently.
I've been struggling with it recently. What a pain.
I've been struggling with it recently. What a pain.
#31
Burning Brakes
Plan on trying this today, thanks.
Was going to just pull the fuse, but most people say it causes the CEL after a few starts. Unfortunately without a tuner, the reset will take 40 on/off cycles before it clears itself! If this is enough resistance to prevent the CEL and not have to mess around with resistors then I am game.
Edit: Is this a record? 10 year member badge and first post?!?
Was going to just pull the fuse, but most people say it causes the CEL after a few starts. Unfortunately without a tuner, the reset will take 40 on/off cycles before it clears itself! If this is enough resistance to prevent the CEL and not have to mess around with resistors then I am game.
Edit: Is this a record? 10 year member badge and first post?!?
http://xse.com/leres/z06/cags.html
#32
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2017
Location: Morris County New Jersey
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Photo from CorvetteMods website showing location of the fuse. It’s the one lit up with its own led light. It’s located under the hood on the passenger side engine compartment. Number 10 fuse if you look in the owners manual.
#33
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2017
Location: Morris County New Jersey
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Also, if anyone is interested in tuning it out themselves, you can purchase a Diablo inTunes tuner and tune it out yourself through the tuners options.
#34
Realized I never posted an update, but the glow fuse mod has been working for 5-6 days now with no CELs .
The 1-4 light still comes on of course, but it doesn't actually do anything so I can still shift into 2nd with it on... and more importantly it hasn't thrown any codes. Used a mini 10a "littelfuse" glow fuse that I manually popped by using a tiny electronics screwdriver and bending the fuse out from the bottom. No damage to the fuse, and didn't have to cut any plastic or anything. Put the original fuse in the spare slot just in case.
Of course I first made the common mistake of replacing fuse #8, which for some stupid reason is right next to "10", and the CAGs was still functional. Flipped it to see if it was due to the directional nature of the LED before I realized my mistake. The correct fuse, actual #10, is in spot 12 (lol?), as pictured above by TorchRedFred.
Thanks guys, this was annoying the heck out of me and I thought I would need an expensive tune to get rid of it .
The 1-4 light still comes on of course, but it doesn't actually do anything so I can still shift into 2nd with it on... and more importantly it hasn't thrown any codes. Used a mini 10a "littelfuse" glow fuse that I manually popped by using a tiny electronics screwdriver and bending the fuse out from the bottom. No damage to the fuse, and didn't have to cut any plastic or anything. Put the original fuse in the spare slot just in case.
Of course I first made the common mistake of replacing fuse #8, which for some stupid reason is right next to "10", and the CAGs was still functional. Flipped it to see if it was due to the directional nature of the LED before I realized my mistake. The correct fuse, actual #10, is in spot 12 (lol?), as pictured above by TorchRedFred.
Thanks guys, this was annoying the heck out of me and I thought I would need an expensive tune to get rid of it .