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Front tie rod removal? (INNER END)

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Old 01-12-2018, 12:42 AM   #1
mBones
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Default Front tie rod removal? (INNER END)

Hey folks,

I've had some subtle clunkiness up front and I believe I've traced it to a slightly loose/worn inner tie rod end. Car has 60k miles and sees track use.

I'm hoping someone has some experience with removing the front tie rods. Outer ends are easy breezy, but the inner ends are made tricky by their lack of hex flats around the ball joint.

It seems ridiculous to have to remove the rack to put new tie rods on. I've come across this tool made to work with smooth inner joints:
Amazon Amazon

Curious if anyone has used it or has a better solution.

Thanks for your input!
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Old 01-12-2018, 08:48 AM   #2
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Why not use a good old pipe wrench?
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Old 01-12-2018, 05:03 PM   #3
cmonkey713
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Ask your local Chevrolet dealer tech guy on how to do it and if you need a special tool if you don't get many responses here..
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Old 01-12-2018, 05:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mBones View Post
Hey folks,

I've had some subtle clunkiness up front and I believe I've traced it to a slightly loose/worn inner tie rod end. Car has 60k miles and sees track use.

I'm hoping someone has some experience with removing the front tie rods. Outer ends are easy breezy, but the inner ends are made tricky by their lack of hex flats around the ball joint.

It seems ridiculous to have to remove the rack to put new tie rods on. I've come across this tool made to work with smooth inner joints:
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Inner-Tie...ZWC8ECSRF6HPBY

Curious if anyone has used it or has a better solution.

Thanks for your input!
there are flats on the inner tie rod housing to remove it.do not hold the steering rack while removing the inner tie rod if the preload adjustment has not been changed.if your not familiar with job get professional help as you are going to damage rack
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Old 01-12-2018, 06:00 PM   #5
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Why not use a good old pipe wrench?
if you use that you will also need a new rack
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Old 01-12-2018, 08:30 PM   #6
mBones
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Hmm, I didn't think the preload would be affected. I was hoping it would be a pretty standard operation- slip the hex coupler around the inner ball joint and turn it with the crazy deep socket. So is it the heavy twisting force that would affect the rack?

I certainly don't see or feel any flats. But there is a curious plastic cup that captures the inboard side of the ball joint- where one would expect to find the hex flats. That cup can slide inboard revealing .... more smoothness. And instead of sliding all the way off the joint, it's stopped by a step in the rod. I want to think the secret to getting it off is under the cup but it won't get out of the way.

Apparently not as straight forward as I hoped. Maybe that subtle clunk isn't so bad..
I'll consider taking more apart or taking the car in if it gets any worse.

Thanks for the feedback. Anyone else?
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Old 01-12-2018, 08:35 PM   #7
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Man, I wish I had a Chevy technician as a personal friend!
All the shop guys are typically... in the shop. I'm assuming they or the service folk wouldn't be keen on giving me free advice. But I could be wrong. Never hurts to ask, right?
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