Atomic6

Anyone use this product in their C6? Seems like it could only help. It certainly doesn't cost much at each fill-up. I used it in my C4 and just wondered if I should continue with my C6.
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Moman01

Haven’t used Lucas I use Star Tron

Corvette_Ed

I'm wondering why you would want to use it? What are you trying to achieve? Personally, I wouldn't use anything with the Lucas name on it?

Bruze

There wouldn't be any point unless you're storing it long-term.

FWIW: I use "Sta-Bil" for winter storage, not because it's necessarily better than others, but it is the most well-known.

There are no magic secret formulas for any of this stuff, including waxes, leak sealers, etc.

Dano523

Where to begin,

The C6 does not have a flex fuel sensor in it, so when you are running fuels with ethanol in it, the car will run lean, and the motor on its own will both retard timing, and increase fuel ratios due to the knock sensor alone. This is way you get decreased mileage in the vet when you are running winter blend fuels with ethanol added to it.

Hence it take about 30% more ethanol, that it takes for petrol for the same burn. And again, although the vet does have flex fuel tables in the ECM, they are shut off/ not used, since the Vet does not have a flex fuel sensor in it to pick up the amounts of ethanol added to the fuel, to use the flex fuel tables in the ECM/tune.
Note, when you are converting a vet over for flex fuel, a flex fuel sensor is added to the fuel lines and wired into the ecm, and the flex fuel tables are turned on and adjusted into the re-tune.


As for the levels of ethanol in standard petrol winter blend fuels, not enough to really matter.

Now on the other hand, if you are filling up the tank to store the vet for the winter, it something like fuel stabilizer that you should be adding to the fuel, and the car driven enough to get the fuel mixed with the fuel stabilizer through out the fuel lines isntead.

To be blunt, the more you are adding to fuel, the more crap you are burning in the fuel and through the cats as well. Hell, even the crap pump fuel additives from the pump itself, leaves deposits behind in the engine, and if you every checked your spark plugs, it will tell the tail.

cadyshac

Been using Stabil for years at work (golf course), in the boat, in the cars and never any problem with spring start up. Maybe something else out there is better but I know Stabil has worked for me.

Atomic6

I've read this about it, Lucas Product is completely soluble in all ethanol fuels and will not harm filters. Lucas Safeguard Ethanol Fuel Conditioner with Stabilizers contains effective additives to prevent rust and corrosion associated with the use of ethanol fuels. My mechanic despises everything about ethanol. I used it in my C4 with the LT1 and also my '01 Trans Am with the LS1. If no one sees the same benefit for the LS3, then I won't bother. That's why I'm asking. If it even benefits the car a tiny bit I will continue to use it. The car can sit for two weeks before drives. It isn't used every day so a tank of gas could last a month or two easy. I have used STA-BIL during the winter but this during the driving season. Thanks!

LDB

That post is mostly untrue. The one correct statement in the post is that Vettes don’t have flex fuel sensors, which are sensors to measure ethanol content in the tank. On flex fuel vehicles, that is needed to make for smooth transitions when you go all the way from 0 to 85% ethanol. But vehicles for the normal range of either ethanol free or 10% ethanol do not need direct ethanol sensors. They simply adjust air/fuel ratio via the feedback loop from the exhaust O2 sensors. It is categorically untrue to say that Vettes (or any other car newer than the early 1990’s) run lean on fuel with 10% ethanol. If you know your history and go back to pre 1990’s in cars with carburetors, ethanol did make cars run lean back then because there was no exhaust O2 sensor and feedback loop. Lean operation is actually the reason ethanol started being used in the first place. But that’s ancient history, and is not true of any car with exhaust O2 sensors.

As far as the additive, it is not needed for any car designed for ethanol (ie, built since the early 1990’s).

Cherokee Nation

"Lucas Snake Oil".

Cherokee Nation

If those plugs came out of a C6,there is a bigger problem then fuel.

irok

with your plugs looking like that you should consider finding yourself a real tuner

jrose7004

I don't put Ethanol in my Vette so not anything that I would need.

madsonp

Buy ethanol free gas https://www.pure-gas.org

DealmakerC6

All the fuel outlets here (Louisiana) have 10% or so ethanol. To buy "real gas" here (ethanol free) everywhere I have seen is 87 octane. Any forum members buy the ethanol free 87 and add an octane booster? As I said, forgive my ignorance, I have been shoveling in 93 octane Chevron, and Shell, and just turned 208,000 miles. I would love to find a 93 octane ethanol free fuel here, but I haven't found a single source.

Bruze

There is a station about five miles from me that has ethanol-free hi-test; I don't remember what brand, but it isn't top tier.

I use Mobil (top tier) instead. My only other choice in the area is Kwik Fill, which I've used in my trucks for years.

The fear of using ethanol gas in modern vehicles appears to be another urban myth that will not die.

Yes, a couple of decades ago it was a problem with rotting out fuel lines (happened on my '88 boat) and other plastic items that came in contact with the fuel, but do people still think the manufacturers never heard about the problems, and still use the old materials . . . ?

Turbo6TA

Lucas Ethanol Treatment worth it?
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No

Atomic6

Yeah, we used to have 93 no ethanol here several years ago, now just 90 is the top octane with no ethanol. 90 is too low thus my use of 93 ethanol gas w/ the Lucas to fight the ethanol 'water' issues.

LDB

Unless you are storing over the winter, there is no need to “fight” the water problem. Even in winter storage, odds you will have a problem are quite low. The problem in storage situations is that once in a while due to screwups, some dissolved water can get into the gas. That can happen both with and without ethanol. The only added risk to ethanol is that if it happens, a bit more water will have dissolved, so the problem will be a bit worse. But as long as the water stays dissolved, there’s no problem even with ethanol. The reason winter storage comes into the picture is that the colder the gas gets, the less water will stay dissolved, so as the gas in your tank cools during storage, if you were unlucky enough to get a last tank of gas that had some dissolved water, that water can start dropping out of solution and form an actual water layer. Stabilizer will prevent that. But as long as the temperature isn’t getting colder as it does in winter storage, the problem will not happen even if you do have some dissolved water, so there is no need for any treatment.

As pointed out in various other posts, the other supposed ethanol problems are either outright myths, or are things that were once true, but due to changes in engine design, no longer are. For cars built since the early 1990’s, ethanol does not carry even the slightest risk on things like corrosion, lean/rich, octane, pulling timing, power loss, water problems from gas tank "breathing", or any of the other things mentioned by some on the forum. You will lose a little fuel economy, about 1 mile per gallon for 10% ethanol. But other than that, from a performance standpoint, it’s no sweat.

To add a bit of credibility to the above statements, I’m against ethanol too. But my objection is economic. It’s more expensive and does not deliver even one of its 3 claimed benefits, the reduction of pollution, greenhouse gas, or imports of foreign oil. Ironically, this boondoggle is one of the very few places where Republicans and Democrats cooperate, the Democrats because they falsely believe it reduces pollution and greenhouse gas, and the Republicans to buy votes from farm states and the billionaires who own the ethanol plants. But that said, from a performance standpoint, there is no consequential risk to using it, nor is there any need for using special additives.

windyC6

I use Lucas "Slick Mist" detail spray all the time. The actual product works as good as any other and the sprayer has the best misting action i've found yet.....

jackhall99

100% agreed. I just changed my plugs and wires (along with the other standard maintenance items recommended at 100K miles) at 127,000 miles. My old plugs looked better than these did. Wow!

I do mostly highway driving, so my car is not subject to the same rigors of use if it were all urban use. So I did my 50K transmission and diff service, etc. at 65,000 miles, and the 100K items at 127,000. I don't use any additives as none are needed. And my car has been trouble free over its 11 1/2 years of (almost) daily driven service.