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Trans cooling line leak

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Old 02-23-2018, 08:45 AM
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O C Charlie
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Default Trans cooling line leak

Good morning folks,

I posted back around Thanksgiving looking for a local, worthy mechanic to replace my front lower transmission cooling line. Well it has not been fixed and I'm on another track to repair it myself.

My plan is to cut out the rubber hose portion of the line, replace it with a new longer piece and double clamp it on both sides with the best clamps I can get.

My question is: Is the pressure in the line too great for this type of fix?

I have the new part and attached a pic. The arrows indicate the length of the replacement hose on the old part.

I sure do appreciate any response.
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Last edited by O C Charlie; 02-23-2018 at 08:47 AM.
Old 02-23-2018, 09:24 AM
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EviLS7
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Some completely just cut the lines all the way back where they go into the transmission and loop them together. I plan on running a trans cooler that mounts in the rear fender and gets air via the rear brake duct.
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Old 02-23-2018, 09:34 AM
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3X2
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Not a good idea unless you add some sort of bubble flare to the tubing, similar to a radiator neck. I'd weld two AN male ends and make up a hose with AN hose ends.
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Old 02-23-2018, 09:37 AM
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FatsWaller
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Originally Posted by O C Charlie
Good morning folks,

I posted back around Thanksgiving looking for a local, worthy mechanic to replace my front lower transmission cooling line. Well it has not been fixed and I'm on another track to repair it myself.

My plan is to cut out the rubber hose portion of the line, replace it with a new longer piece and double clamp it on both sides with the best clamps I can get.

My question is: Is the pressure in the line too great for this type of fix?

I have the new part and attached a pic. The arrows indicate the length of the replacement hose on the old part.

I sure do appreciate any response.
AFIK, there's some pressure in both the cooling lines, but a lesser amount in the return line. You see a lot of after-market trans cooling add-on kits, and they use the cut and splice method, so apparently using clamps is sufficient.

However, I have to admit being a bit confused. It sounds like you are going to take a brand new part, and modify it, then install it. Why? Is there something wrong with the replacement such that it can't be installed?
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Old 02-23-2018, 09:49 AM
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O C Charlie
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Originally Posted by 3X2
Not a good idea unless you add some sort of bubble flare to the tubing, similar to a radiator neck. I'd weld two AN male ends and make up a hose with AN hose ends.
.

It has a flare on each end where the rubber hose meets the tubing. Thanks
Old 02-23-2018, 09:55 AM
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O C Charlie
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Originally Posted by FatsWaller
AFIK, there's some pressure in both the cooling lines, but a lesser amount in the return line. You see a lot of after-market trans cooling add-on kits, and they use the cut and splice method, so apparently using clamps is sufficient.

However, I have to admit being a bit confused. It sounds like you are going to take a brand new part, and modify it, then install it. Why? Is there something wrong with the replacement such that it can't be installed?
Hey FatsWaller thanks for the reply. I did buy the new part before I decided to go in this direction but, I'm going to leave the old part in and cut the rubber hose out with the old compression fittings. Then, I'm going to add a longer piece of hose with a clamp on both sides of the flare. I'll do this on both ends of the rubber hose. The problem originated from the compression clamp starting to loosen up and seeping. If this wasn't a sealed system it wouldn't be such a big deal to add a little fluid every once in a while.
Old 02-23-2018, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by O C Charlie
.

It has a flare on each end where the rubber hose meets the tubing. Thanks
That may be the OP's intention, but I based my statements on the picture showing what appear to me to be where he was going to cut the tubing and not cut off the hose crimps.
Old 02-23-2018, 02:05 PM
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A flexible line as a replacement and compression fittings on each end, if the OD size permits, would be a option if I were to do patch job.
Old 08-06-2018, 06:53 PM
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Does anyone know if this actually worked? I seem to have a tiny very slow drip on the lower line.

I was having trouble even even finding out what the part number is for that line for an auto 2007
Old 08-06-2018, 09:20 PM
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Default Transmission line leak

Originally Posted by O C Charlie
.

It has a flare on each end where the rubber hose meets the tubing. Thanks
Not true, no flare on either end. Take a Dremel tool and cut off the metal compression fittings. Both ends of the remaining line have a dimpled end. Buy 1 foot of 11/32 High Pressure Rubber Line from NAPA and 2 corresponding screw clamps. I did this to my 08 2 years ago and still no leaks. You have to lift the motor about 6 to 8 inches to replace the OEM line. Too much work for that when this fix works just fine.

Old 08-07-2018, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 2008 Corvette
Not true, no flare on either end. Take a Dremel tool and cut off the metal compression fittings. Both ends of the remaining line have a dimpled end. Buy 1 foot of 11/32 High Pressure Rubber Line from NAPA and 2 corresponding screw clamps. I did this to my 08 2 years ago and still no leaks. You have to lift the motor about 6 to 8 inches to replace the OEM line. Too much work for that when this fix works just fine.
i would replace the entire thing as an assembly, i replaced my lower line on my grand sport without jacking the motor. i did have to take off the lower a/c tensioner and belt. it's not a bad job.
Old 08-07-2018, 01:21 PM
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Lets back this way up, and is the problem a leak of the rubber section hose, or the press connector at end of lines with a bad O ring isntead.

If the rubber hose section of the hose itself, then crimp ferrules can be cut off, new hydraulic hose section installed, with the new ferrules crimped back on to secure the hose section to the solid lines/or you can just to go compression fittings instead.


Hell, take the hose down to a hydraulic repair shop, and they will replace the hose if that is the only problem for about $20.

Last edited by Dano523; 08-07-2018 at 01:22 PM.
Old 07-13-2020, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 2008 Corvette
Not true, no flare on either end. Take a Dremel tool and cut off the metal compression fittings. Both ends of the remaining line have a dimpled end. Buy 1 foot of 11/32 High Pressure Rubber Line from NAPA and 2 corresponding screw clamps. I did this to my 08 2 years ago and still no leaks. You have to lift the motor about 6 to 8 inches to replace the OEM line. Too much work for that when this fix works just fine.
@2008 Corvette checking in to see if the leak ever reappeared? I have a '79, put in a newly rebuilt transmission and when I started it up to go through gears I found the lower transmission line leaking at the hose connection. Tightened the clamp as hard as I dared, but sill leaked like a sieve. Looking to just buy new hose/clamps and replace the existing hose/clamps. Wasting all the new transmission fluid to the floor...
Old 07-13-2020, 10:20 PM
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No leaks at all.
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