Trans cooling line leak
#1
Trans cooling line leak
Good morning folks,
I posted back around Thanksgiving looking for a local, worthy mechanic to replace my front lower transmission cooling line. Well it has not been fixed and I'm on another track to repair it myself.
My plan is to cut out the rubber hose portion of the line, replace it with a new longer piece and double clamp it on both sides with the best clamps I can get.
My question is: Is the pressure in the line too great for this type of fix?
I have the new part and attached a pic. The arrows indicate the length of the replacement hose on the old part.
I sure do appreciate any response.
I posted back around Thanksgiving looking for a local, worthy mechanic to replace my front lower transmission cooling line. Well it has not been fixed and I'm on another track to repair it myself.
My plan is to cut out the rubber hose portion of the line, replace it with a new longer piece and double clamp it on both sides with the best clamps I can get.
My question is: Is the pressure in the line too great for this type of fix?
I have the new part and attached a pic. The arrows indicate the length of the replacement hose on the old part.
I sure do appreciate any response.
Last edited by O C Charlie; 02-23-2018 at 08:47 AM.
#2
Some completely just cut the lines all the way back where they go into the transmission and loop them together. I plan on running a trans cooler that mounts in the rear fender and gets air via the rear brake duct.
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O C Charlie (02-23-2018)
#3
Melting Slicks
Not a good idea unless you add some sort of bubble flare to the tubing, similar to a radiator neck. I'd weld two AN male ends and make up a hose with AN hose ends.
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O C Charlie (02-23-2018)
#4
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Good morning folks,
I posted back around Thanksgiving looking for a local, worthy mechanic to replace my front lower transmission cooling line. Well it has not been fixed and I'm on another track to repair it myself.
My plan is to cut out the rubber hose portion of the line, replace it with a new longer piece and double clamp it on both sides with the best clamps I can get.
My question is: Is the pressure in the line too great for this type of fix?
I have the new part and attached a pic. The arrows indicate the length of the replacement hose on the old part.
I sure do appreciate any response.
I posted back around Thanksgiving looking for a local, worthy mechanic to replace my front lower transmission cooling line. Well it has not been fixed and I'm on another track to repair it myself.
My plan is to cut out the rubber hose portion of the line, replace it with a new longer piece and double clamp it on both sides with the best clamps I can get.
My question is: Is the pressure in the line too great for this type of fix?
I have the new part and attached a pic. The arrows indicate the length of the replacement hose on the old part.
I sure do appreciate any response.
However, I have to admit being a bit confused. It sounds like you are going to take a brand new part, and modify it, then install it. Why? Is there something wrong with the replacement such that it can't be installed?
The following users liked this post:
O C Charlie (02-23-2018)
#5
#6
AFIK, there's some pressure in both the cooling lines, but a lesser amount in the return line. You see a lot of after-market trans cooling add-on kits, and they use the cut and splice method, so apparently using clamps is sufficient.
However, I have to admit being a bit confused. It sounds like you are going to take a brand new part, and modify it, then install it. Why? Is there something wrong with the replacement such that it can't be installed?
However, I have to admit being a bit confused. It sounds like you are going to take a brand new part, and modify it, then install it. Why? Is there something wrong with the replacement such that it can't be installed?
#7
Melting Slicks
#8
Melting Slicks
A flexible line as a replacement and compression fittings on each end, if the OD size permits, would be a option if I were to do patch job.
#9
Does anyone know if this actually worked? I seem to have a tiny very slow drip on the lower line.
I was having trouble even even finding out what the part number is for that line for an auto 2007
I was having trouble even even finding out what the part number is for that line for an auto 2007
#10
Melting Slicks
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Transmission line leak
#11
Not true, no flare on either end. Take a Dremel tool and cut off the metal compression fittings. Both ends of the remaining line have a dimpled end. Buy 1 foot of 11/32 High Pressure Rubber Line from NAPA and 2 corresponding screw clamps. I did this to my 08 2 years ago and still no leaks. You have to lift the motor about 6 to 8 inches to replace the OEM line. Too much work for that when this fix works just fine.
#12
Lets back this way up, and is the problem a leak of the rubber section hose, or the press connector at end of lines with a bad O ring isntead.
If the rubber hose section of the hose itself, then crimp ferrules can be cut off, new hydraulic hose section installed, with the new ferrules crimped back on to secure the hose section to the solid lines/or you can just to go compression fittings instead.
Hell, take the hose down to a hydraulic repair shop, and they will replace the hose if that is the only problem for about $20.
If the rubber hose section of the hose itself, then crimp ferrules can be cut off, new hydraulic hose section installed, with the new ferrules crimped back on to secure the hose section to the solid lines/or you can just to go compression fittings instead.
Hell, take the hose down to a hydraulic repair shop, and they will replace the hose if that is the only problem for about $20.
Last edited by Dano523; 08-07-2018 at 01:22 PM.
#13
Not true, no flare on either end. Take a Dremel tool and cut off the metal compression fittings. Both ends of the remaining line have a dimpled end. Buy 1 foot of 11/32 High Pressure Rubber Line from NAPA and 2 corresponding screw clamps. I did this to my 08 2 years ago and still no leaks. You have to lift the motor about 6 to 8 inches to replace the OEM line. Too much work for that when this fix works just fine.