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Who's going to change to the Mobil 1, 0W-40

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Old 02-24-2018, 08:24 AM
  #21  
HBsurfer
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Originally Posted by pielet97


Really? I thought that was so obvious, I didn’t need to state it. Guess not.
Why post it here on the C6 forum? Does not apply

Last edited by HBsurfer; 02-24-2018 at 09:22 AM.
Old 02-24-2018, 09:16 AM
  #22  
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Luckily, oil is not a heated debate on any car or motorcycle forum.
Old 02-24-2018, 09:44 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by c6miller
Been using 5W-30 since new (7 years) Mobil says we should change to the new formula. Is anyone going to switch?
dunno
Old 02-24-2018, 10:38 AM
  #24  
windyC6
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Originally Posted by mikecronis
Luckily, oil is not a heated debate on any car or motorcycle forum.
Just wait and it won't be long before the oil "experts" show up with some of their contributions and rocket science calculations to show all of us up......
Old 02-24-2018, 10:49 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Dman302

this is so inaccurate it’s comical. Idle pressure on the non dry sump engines is rarely over or at 30 psi when oil is over around 200 deg for most LS engines....and that is normal. The high weight is the same as what is spec so the high temp viscosity is the same as spec. The low weight mumber means better viscosity flow when colder than 5 weight. You want the oil moving around with ease when cold. 0-30w is actually a better oil for northern cars in the cold months.
You're correct. I guess he hasn't read his OM. Mine says normal oil pressure for my LS2 is between 20 and 80 psi. It also says it is normal to drop below 20psi at idle when warm. The low pressure warning light doesn't come on until 3 psi.
Old 02-24-2018, 10:52 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by HBsurfer
Where did you see Mobil telling us to change? A tv commercial or a magazine ad means nothing to me. If it is stated in an article that gives a solid reason that makes sense to me, I would listen. If not, I will stay with what GM says since they designed the engine.
Old 02-24-2018, 10:53 AM
  #27  
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Not an oil expert, just know what the numbers mean. 0 vs 5 only makes a difference in an extremely cold climate. 30 vs 40 makes a difference every second the engine is running once it reaches operating temp, and especially if it's being run hard. I'm in a hot climate so the bottom number really doesn't matter. But I won't run 40 in my engine spec'd for 30.
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Old 02-24-2018, 10:57 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by HBsurfer
Why post it here on the C6 forum? Does not apply
Because this is the only time to my knowledge that GM has has recommended 0W40 for a vette, so it's safe to assume that's where the OP got his info from.
Old 02-24-2018, 10:59 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by HBsurfer
That thread is discussing Tadge's recommendation for C7's. This is the C6 section. Different engines. Different oil.
Yes you are correct but what we are really talking about is the amount of space between the bearing (bushing) and the piece of steel it connects to. Is there a tolerance difference between the C6 motor and the C7?
Old 02-24-2018, 11:02 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Don-Vette
Why would I put any other weight oil in my car other than what is recommended in my owners manual? only a dumbass who knows nothing about engines would do that. IMO

maybe because at some point in time when your engine has a lot of miles on it and the bushings start to wear? I understand the wear in a properly protected motor is minimal but what about the motors that people do not take care of, this is a question.

Last edited by ls1121; 02-24-2018 at 11:02 AM.
Old 02-24-2018, 01:50 PM
  #31  
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Nope, not changing... Mobil 1 5W-30 is good stuff
Old 02-24-2018, 03:56 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by HBsurfer
...I will stay with what GM says since they designed the engine.

<== As others have said.
Old 02-24-2018, 06:28 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by windyC6
Just wait and it won't be long before the oil "experts" show up with some of their contributions and rocket science calculations to show all of us up......
Not sure who you’re zinging here, but I suppose I’m one of the candidates. While I certainly have made some technical posts, I don’t think many, if any of them have been out of the clear blue sky. Mostly, they have been responses to direct questions. As to the issue in this thread, 0W40 should be a teeny bit better for essentially all engines, and considerably better for engines that are either started very cold or are occasionally run very hard under track or near-track conditions. On the cold end, all oil is too thick at startup for all engines, even 0W30 on a car started in mid-day Las Vegas summer heat. So the 0W rating will give all engines a bit less cold start wear. The viscosity difference at normal oil temp in the low to lower-mid 200’s isn’t enough to bicker about. But as you go above 250, the 0W40 will thin out less and thus be better for all engines that are pushed hard enough to get the oil that hot. But there is a risk. The risk is that to get to that wide a spread between W and normal number, the oil needs VI improver additive, and those additives have not historically been very stable. If the additive fails, the 0W40 will degrade to about 0W25. It’s of course possible that they have come up with a more stable VI improver additive, and if so, 0W40 should be better as outlined above. But before I’d use it in my car, I’d want to see some reports from used oil analysis fans to see if it maintains viscosity at long intervals.
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:20 PM
  #34  
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I have never used Mobil 1. No need to start now.
Old 02-24-2018, 07:38 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by LDB
Not sure who you’re zinging here, but I suppose I’m one of the candidates. While I certainly have made some technical posts, I don’t think many, if any of them have been out of the clear blue sky. Mostly, they have been responses to direct questions. As to the issue in this thread, 0W40 should be a teeny bit better for essentially all engines, and considerably better for engines that are either started very cold or are occasionally run very hard under track or near-track conditions. On the cold end, all oil is too thick at startup for all engines, even 0W30 on a car started in mid-day Las Vegas summer heat. So the 0W rating will give all engines a bit less cold start wear. The viscosity difference at normal oil temp in the low to lower-mid 200’s isn’t enough to bicker about. But as you go above 250, the 0W40 will thin out less and thus be better for all engines that are pushed hard enough to get the oil that hot. But there is a risk. The risk is that to get to that wide a spread between W and normal number, the oil needs VI improver additive, and those additives have not historically been very stable. If the additive fails, the 0W40 will degrade to about 0W25. It’s of course possible that they have come up with a more stable VI improver additive, and if so, 0W40 should be better as outlined above. But before I’d use it in my car, I’d want to see some reports from used oil analysis fans to see if it maintains viscosity at long intervals.
The expert has spoken! Thanks for that.
Old 02-24-2018, 09:37 PM
  #36  
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I am thinking of changing oil but to something better -- if it worked in my mom's sewing machine for 35 years.
IT has to be good in my C6 LS 3 motor
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Old 02-24-2018, 09:54 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by C6 Snowboarder
I am thinking of changing oil but to something better -- if it worked in my mom's sewing machine for 35 years.
IT has to be good in my C6 LS 3 motor
I agree, good idea!

3-in-1, good for crank, tranny, and diff.

What could go wrong?


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Old 02-24-2018, 10:26 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by LDB
Not sure who you’re zinging here, but I suppose I’m one of the candidates. While I certainly have made some technical posts, I don’t think many, if any of them have been out of the clear blue sky. Mostly, they have been responses to direct questions. As to the issue in this thread, 0W40 should be a teeny bit better for essentially all engines, and considerably better for engines that are either started very cold or are occasionally run very hard under track or near-track conditions. On the cold end, all oil is too thick at startup for all engines, even 0W30 on a car started in mid-day Las Vegas summer heat. So the 0W rating will give all engines a bit less cold start wear. The viscosity difference at normal oil temp in the low to lower-mid 200’s isn’t enough to bicker about. But as you go above 250, the 0W40 will thin out less and thus be better for all engines that are pushed hard enough to get the oil that hot. But there is a risk. The risk is that to get to that wide a spread between W and normal number, the oil needs VI improver additive, and those additives have not historically been very stable. If the additive fails, the 0W40 will degrade to about 0W25. It’s of course possible that they have come up with a more stable VI improver additive, and if so, 0W40 should be better as outlined above. But before I’d use it in my car, I’d want to see some reports from used oil analysis fans to see if it maintains viscosity at long intervals.
Whether it was directed towards you or not, that's only one man's opinion. For me, the only reason I even pop into oil threads is to read your responses.

Old 02-25-2018, 12:13 AM
  #39  
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What tires do you guys recommend, LMFAO!!!!!!!
Old 02-25-2018, 01:44 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by LDB
Not sure who you’re zinging here, but I suppose I’m one of the candidates. While I certainly have made some technical posts, I don’t think many, if any of them have been out of the clear blue sky. Mostly, they have been responses to direct questions. As to the issue in this thread, 0W40 should be a teeny bit better for essentially all engines, and considerably better for engines that are either started very cold or are occasionally run very hard under track or near-track conditions. On the cold end, all oil is too thick at startup for all engines, even 0W30 on a car started in mid-day Las Vegas summer heat. So the 0W rating will give all engines a bit less cold start wear. The viscosity difference at normal oil temp in the low to lower-mid 200’s isn’t enough to bicker about. But as you go above 250, the 0W40 will thin out less and thus be better for all engines that are pushed hard enough to get the oil that hot. But there is a risk. The risk is that to get to that wide a spread between W and normal number, the oil needs VI improver additive, and those additives have not historically been very stable. If the additive fails, the 0W40 will degrade to about 0W25. It’s of course possible that they have come up with a more stable VI improver additive, and if so, 0W40 should be better as outlined above. But before I’d use it in my car, I’d want to see some reports from used oil analysis fans to see if it maintains viscosity at long intervals.
I have used the 0W40 for years with no problems with the high temps here in Florida it works well. I change it at 50% on the OLM to be sure it holds it's viscosity and I think it is the best of both worlds. I have also used 5W40 mixed fleet a few times in the Summer since it has more zinc.


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