Replaced Rear Speakers With POLK 522 MM's
05-17-2018, 07:48 AM
#21
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Location: S/W ,Fla-Ohio State Football isn't a matter of life or death,Its Much More serious than that
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https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSC...yABEgKAdvD_BwE
If you want to swap the fronts to add in tweaters as well, then CS 3.25".
https://www.kicker.com/cs-seriesKicker Cs 5.25 gets the job down better, and since they are as effecent as the OEM speaker, you don't run into balancing problems with a rear speaker not playing as loud as the front speakers isntead.
Hence some of the problems that you run into with other speakers that are rated for way more power, they don't have the speaker Efficiency/Sensitivity that the lower power that the Bose amp is putting out to start with, and you have to crank the volume of the radio to try to get them to play as loud as the OEM speaker, but with the volume cranked up up, the radio and amp is just putting out a great deal of distorting instead.
Note, you destroy a speaker coil faster by it trying to play a distorted signal, then throwing more power at the speaker that it rated for instead. With the signal distorted, the speaker coils can not track cleanly, and this cause the coil wire to make contact to the side of the channel to wear their protective wire coatings, to cause the coil wired to break. By over powering a speaker with too much power that it rated for with a clean signal, then here is where you can over heat the coil wires to burn them up instead.
Hence the CF speakers are looking for a continuous Power of 30w to play clean (about what the Bose amp puts out)
While the pock's are looking for 100 amps before they will play clean isntead.
Polk DB522
Continuous Power Handling
100W
Peak Power Handling
300W
And yes, if you want a better stereo sound on a Bose system, then you need to replace the two small speakers in the doors, since they are the only speakers that are playing in stereo. The rest of the speakers, including the back two speakers, are just filler speakers playing in mono.
Hence, got No High's, got No Low's, much be Bose!!!!
05-17-2018, 11:03 AM
#22
Cruising
Member Since: Apr 2012
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direct replacement
Kicker Cs 5.25 gets the job down better, and since they are as effecent as the OEM speaker, you don't run into balancing problems with a rear speaker not playing as loud as the front speakers isntead.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSC...yABEgKAdvD_BwE
If you want to swap the fronts to add in tweaters as well, then CS 3.25".
https://www.kicker.com/cs-series
Hence some of the problems that you run into with other speakers that are rated for way more power, they don't have the speaker Efficiency/Sensitivity that the lower power that the Bose amp is putting out to start with, and you have to crank the volume of the radio to try to get them to play as loud as the OEM speaker, but with the volume cranked up up, the radio and amp is just putting out a great deal of distorting instead.
Note, you destroy a speaker coil faster by it trying to play a distorted signal, then throwing more power at the speaker that it rated for instead. With the signal distorted, the speaker coils can not track cleanly, and this cause the coil wire to make contact to the side of the channel to wear their protective wire coatings, to cause the coil wired to break. By over powering a speaker with too much power that it rated for with a clean signal, then here is where you can over heat the coil wires to burn them up instead.
Hence the CF speakers are looking for a continuous Power of 30w to play clean (about what the Bose amp puts out)
While the pock's are looking for 100 amps before they will play clean isntead.
Polk DB522
Continuous Power Handling
100W
Peak Power Handling
300W
And yes, if you want a better stereo sound on a Bose system, then you need to replace the two small speakers in the doors, since they are the only speakers that are playing in stereo. The rest of the speakers, including the back two speakers, are just filler speakers playing in mono.
Hence, got No High's, got No Low's, much be Bose!!!!
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSC...yABEgKAdvD_BwE
If you want to swap the fronts to add in tweaters as well, then CS 3.25".
https://www.kicker.com/cs-series
Hence some of the problems that you run into with other speakers that are rated for way more power, they don't have the speaker Efficiency/Sensitivity that the lower power that the Bose amp is putting out to start with, and you have to crank the volume of the radio to try to get them to play as loud as the OEM speaker, but with the volume cranked up up, the radio and amp is just putting out a great deal of distorting instead.
Note, you destroy a speaker coil faster by it trying to play a distorted signal, then throwing more power at the speaker that it rated for instead. With the signal distorted, the speaker coils can not track cleanly, and this cause the coil wire to make contact to the side of the channel to wear their protective wire coatings, to cause the coil wired to break. By over powering a speaker with too much power that it rated for with a clean signal, then here is where you can over heat the coil wires to burn them up instead.
Hence the CF speakers are looking for a continuous Power of 30w to play clean (about what the Bose amp puts out)
While the pock's are looking for 100 amps before they will play clean isntead.
Polk DB522
Continuous Power Handling
100W
Peak Power Handling
300W
And yes, if you want a better stereo sound on a Bose system, then you need to replace the two small speakers in the doors, since they are the only speakers that are playing in stereo. The rest of the speakers, including the back two speakers, are just filler speakers playing in mono.
Hence, got No High's, got No Low's, much be Bose!!!!
05-17-2018, 12:09 PM
#23
Bose is and always has been a scam. People hear the name and think quality when it's quite the opposite.
05-17-2018, 02:09 PM
#24
Melting Slicks
So what do you want? Your contradicting yourself. The Bose will play with great sound if you took the time to play the proper quality music thru it. It's that simple. Just like the oem nav, most people are too stupid to use it so they just knock it when in fact it works really well.
05-17-2018, 07:34 PM
#25
Bose has always been about staging "fill", and not a perfect 20 to 20K stereo separation isntead.
So although the Bose system is good with mid range Fill to try to give the sound stage more over all width area fill, it lacks depth, crispness, and transparency through the entire 20-20K range instead.
To really understand the difference, go find a high end home audio store that has a listening room with electrostatic speakers, run by tube amps. This will set the stage so you understand brightness, clarity, transparency, and rolling deep of playback of 20 to 20K.
Now go to a sound room that has a Bose system set up, and although the room will have plenty of stage fill in the mid range to make the playback sound more wider over all in the room, it's play back will be more of a muddier mid range predominate room fill sound isntead.
So in the vet with Bose system, could be through of as a lounge area type setting, when the music is more for background fill instead.
So by adding actual tweeters In the Bose system, we increase the crispness to the Highs, and with the rear CS speakers able to add more deeper mid base that the base system speakers, we pick up some lower mid base as well.
As for getting the vet to even start to sound like the electrostat/tube amp sound room, that cost a lot of money to even get you 1/2 of the way, since it all steams from the amps outwards, and class A amps do not come cheap to start with.
So although the Bose system is good with mid range Fill to try to give the sound stage more over all width area fill, it lacks depth, crispness, and transparency through the entire 20-20K range instead.
To really understand the difference, go find a high end home audio store that has a listening room with electrostatic speakers, run by tube amps. This will set the stage so you understand brightness, clarity, transparency, and rolling deep of playback of 20 to 20K.
Now go to a sound room that has a Bose system set up, and although the room will have plenty of stage fill in the mid range to make the playback sound more wider over all in the room, it's play back will be more of a muddier mid range predominate room fill sound isntead.
So in the vet with Bose system, could be through of as a lounge area type setting, when the music is more for background fill instead.
So by adding actual tweeters In the Bose system, we increase the crispness to the Highs, and with the rear CS speakers able to add more deeper mid base that the base system speakers, we pick up some lower mid base as well.
As for getting the vet to even start to sound like the electrostat/tube amp sound room, that cost a lot of money to even get you 1/2 of the way, since it all steams from the amps outwards, and class A amps do not come cheap to start with.
Last edited by Dano523; 05-17-2018 at 07:39 PM.
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C6Whatever (04-22-2019)
05-23-2018, 10:52 AM
#27
Last edited by pdac; 05-25-2018 at 09:47 AM. Reason: Added emoji to indicate sarcasm for clarification.
05-23-2018, 12:07 PM
#28
Race Director
That may be true, but it's also true that the OEM Nav head unit doesn't come close to comparing to the plethora of features offered on a modern head unit.
05-23-2018, 03:23 PM
#29
Race Director
Kicker Cs 5.25 gets the job down better, and since they are as effecent as the OEM speaker, you don't run into balancing problems with a rear speaker not playing as loud as the front speakers instead...If you want to swap the fronts to add in tweaters as well, then CS 3.25".
Based solely on our past conversation re this subject, your reputation & expertise I bought both size Kickers + a couple pre-owned Bose woofers.
Z's in shop for heads, cam & tune right now.
Asked if they'd install speakers since car would have to sit waiting for parts/turn-around & they said they would.
Glad all four are P&P w/ no additional harness required, too.
TIA, betting sound's improved vs 10 y/o stock gear.
05-23-2018, 03:50 PM
#30
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2013
Location: what ain't no country I ever heard of
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Kicker Cs 5.25 gets the job down better, and since they are as effecent as the OEM speaker, you don't run into balancing problems with a rear speaker not playing as loud as the front speakers isntead.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSC...yABEgKAdvD_BwE
If you want to swap the fronts to add in tweaters as well, then CS 3.25".
https://www.kicker.com/cs-series
Hence some of the problems that you run into with other speakers that are rated for way more power, they don't have the speaker Efficiency/Sensitivity that the lower power that the Bose amp is putting out to start with, and you have to crank the volume of the radio to try to get them to play as loud as the OEM speaker, but with the volume cranked up up, the radio and amp is just putting out a great deal of distorting instead.
Note, you destroy a speaker coil faster by it trying to play a distorted signal, then throwing more power at the speaker that it rated for instead. With the signal distorted, the speaker coils can not track cleanly, and this cause the coil wire to make contact to the side of the channel to wear their protective wire coatings, to cause the coil wired to break. By over powering a speaker with too much power that it rated for with a clean signal, then here is where you can over heat the coil wires to burn them up instead.
Hence the CF speakers are looking for a continuous Power of 30w to play clean (about what the Bose amp puts out)
While the pock's are looking for 100 amps before they will play clean isntead.
Polk DB522
Continuous Power Handling
100W
Peak Power Handling
300W
And yes, if you want a better stereo sound on a Bose system, then you need to replace the two small speakers in the doors, since they are the only speakers that are playing in stereo. The rest of the speakers, including the back two speakers, are just filler speakers playing in mono.
Hence, got No High's, got No Low's, much be Bose!!!!
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSC...yABEgKAdvD_BwE
If you want to swap the fronts to add in tweaters as well, then CS 3.25".
https://www.kicker.com/cs-series
Hence some of the problems that you run into with other speakers that are rated for way more power, they don't have the speaker Efficiency/Sensitivity that the lower power that the Bose amp is putting out to start with, and you have to crank the volume of the radio to try to get them to play as loud as the OEM speaker, but with the volume cranked up up, the radio and amp is just putting out a great deal of distorting instead.
Note, you destroy a speaker coil faster by it trying to play a distorted signal, then throwing more power at the speaker that it rated for instead. With the signal distorted, the speaker coils can not track cleanly, and this cause the coil wire to make contact to the side of the channel to wear their protective wire coatings, to cause the coil wired to break. By over powering a speaker with too much power that it rated for with a clean signal, then here is where you can over heat the coil wires to burn them up instead.
Hence the CF speakers are looking for a continuous Power of 30w to play clean (about what the Bose amp puts out)
While the pock's are looking for 100 amps before they will play clean isntead.
Polk DB522
Continuous Power Handling
100W
Peak Power Handling
300W
And yes, if you want a better stereo sound on a Bose system, then you need to replace the two small speakers in the doors, since they are the only speakers that are playing in stereo. The rest of the speakers, including the back two speakers, are just filler speakers playing in mono.
Hence, got No High's, got No Low's, much be Bose!!!!
I don't see a 3.25. For the front?
05-24-2018, 12:10 PM
#31
05-24-2018, 01:06 PM
#32
Race Director
05-24-2018, 01:19 PM
#33
Bose has always been about staging "fill", and not a perfect 20 to 20K stereo separation isntead.
So although the Bose system is good with mid range Fill to try to give the sound stage more over all width area fill, it lacks depth, crispness, and transparency through the entire 20-20K range instead.
To really understand the difference, go find a high end home audio store that has a listening room with electrostatic speakers, run by tube amps. This will set the stage so you understand brightness, clarity, transparency, and rolling deep of playback of 20 to 20K.
Now go to a sound room that has a Bose system set up, and although the room will have plenty of stage fill in the mid range to make the playback sound more wider over all in the room, it's play back will be more of a muddier mid range predominate room fill sound isntead.
So in the vet with Bose system, could be through of as a lounge area type setting, when the music is more for background fill instead.
So by adding actual tweeters In the Bose system, we increase the crispness to the Highs, and with the rear CS speakers able to add more deeper mid base that the base system speakers, we pick up some lower mid base as well.
As for getting the vet to even start to sound like the electrostat/tube amp sound room, that cost a lot of money to even get you 1/2 of the way, since it all steams from the amps outwards, and class A amps do not come cheap to start with.
So although the Bose system is good with mid range Fill to try to give the sound stage more over all width area fill, it lacks depth, crispness, and transparency through the entire 20-20K range instead.
To really understand the difference, go find a high end home audio store that has a listening room with electrostatic speakers, run by tube amps. This will set the stage so you understand brightness, clarity, transparency, and rolling deep of playback of 20 to 20K.
Now go to a sound room that has a Bose system set up, and although the room will have plenty of stage fill in the mid range to make the playback sound more wider over all in the room, it's play back will be more of a muddier mid range predominate room fill sound isntead.
So in the vet with Bose system, could be through of as a lounge area type setting, when the music is more for background fill instead.
So by adding actual tweeters In the Bose system, we increase the crispness to the Highs, and with the rear CS speakers able to add more deeper mid base that the base system speakers, we pick up some lower mid base as well.
As for getting the vet to even start to sound like the electrostat/tube amp sound room, that cost a lot of money to even get you 1/2 of the way, since it all steams from the amps outwards, and class A amps do not come cheap to start with.
05-24-2018, 07:38 PM
#34
Burning Brakes
I just replaced my rear non bose speakers. I used kicker ds series and the difference is noticeable. I'm not saying it's going to win any awards for sounds quality, but it's better.
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Landru (05-25-2018)
05-25-2018, 08:27 AM
#35
Racer
05-25-2018, 09:01 PM
#36
Le Mans Master
05-26-2018, 12:38 AM
#37
Drifting
Kicker Cs 5.25 gets the job down better, and since they are as effecent as the OEM speaker, you don't run into balancing problems with a rear speaker not playing as loud as the front speakers isntead.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSC...yABEgKAdvD_BwE
If you want to swap the fronts to add in tweaters as well, then CS 3.25".
https://www.kicker.com/cs-series
Hence some of the problems that you run into with other speakers that are rated for way more power, they don't have the speaker Efficiency/Sensitivity that the lower power that the Bose amp is putting out to start with, and you have to crank the volume of the radio to try to get them to play as loud as the OEM speaker, but with the volume cranked up up, the radio and amp is just putting out a great deal of distorting instead.
Note, you destroy a speaker coil faster by it trying to play a distorted signal, then throwing more power at the speaker that it rated for instead. With the signal distorted, the speaker coils can not track cleanly, and this cause the coil wire to make contact to the side of the channel to wear their protective wire coatings, to cause the coil wired to break. By over powering a speaker with too much power that it rated for with a clean signal, then here is where you can over heat the coil wires to burn them up instead.
Hence the CF speakers are looking for a continuous Power of 30w to play clean (about what the Bose amp puts out)
While the pock's are looking for 100 amps before they will play clean isntead.
Polk DB522
Continuous Power Handling
100W
Peak Power Handling
300W
And yes, if you want a better stereo sound on a Bose system, then you need to replace the two small speakers in the doors, since they are the only speakers that are playing in stereo. The rest of the speakers, including the back two speakers, are just filler speakers playing in mono.
Hence, got No High's, got No Low's, much be Bose!!!!
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSC...yABEgKAdvD_BwE
If you want to swap the fronts to add in tweaters as well, then CS 3.25".
https://www.kicker.com/cs-series
Hence some of the problems that you run into with other speakers that are rated for way more power, they don't have the speaker Efficiency/Sensitivity that the lower power that the Bose amp is putting out to start with, and you have to crank the volume of the radio to try to get them to play as loud as the OEM speaker, but with the volume cranked up up, the radio and amp is just putting out a great deal of distorting instead.
Note, you destroy a speaker coil faster by it trying to play a distorted signal, then throwing more power at the speaker that it rated for instead. With the signal distorted, the speaker coils can not track cleanly, and this cause the coil wire to make contact to the side of the channel to wear their protective wire coatings, to cause the coil wired to break. By over powering a speaker with too much power that it rated for with a clean signal, then here is where you can over heat the coil wires to burn them up instead.
Hence the CF speakers are looking for a continuous Power of 30w to play clean (about what the Bose amp puts out)
While the pock's are looking for 100 amps before they will play clean isntead.
Polk DB522
Continuous Power Handling
100W
Peak Power Handling
300W
And yes, if you want a better stereo sound on a Bose system, then you need to replace the two small speakers in the doors, since they are the only speakers that are playing in stereo. The rest of the speakers, including the back two speakers, are just filler speakers playing in mono.
Hence, got No High's, got No Low's, much be Bose!!!!
https://www.kicker.com/cs-tweeters-20
05-26-2018, 06:53 AM
#40
Le Mans Master
What you are really looking for as far is efficiency
so when working with the factory system and having sufficient volume is key you need to match the ohm rating and by the highest SPL rated speaker you can find
The higher the DB number in the SPL rating the more efficient the speaker is . When using factory amps , go for the highest SPL speaker you can find rated at 4 ohms or less
I went with the the factory NAV head unit , factory amps polks all the way around plus a POLK 10 in sub powered by a 500 watt FOSGATE SUB Amp .... the system rocked
Dave
so when working with the factory system and having sufficient volume is key you need to match the ohm rating and by the highest SPL rated speaker you can find
The higher the DB number in the SPL rating the more efficient the speaker is . When using factory amps , go for the highest SPL speaker you can find rated at 4 ohms or less
I went with the the factory NAV head unit , factory amps polks all the way around plus a POLK 10 in sub powered by a 500 watt FOSGATE SUB Amp .... the system rocked
Dave