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Old 04-22-2018, 04:24 PM
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Aaron Merritt
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Default Custom NPP in a Box

So I was within a few clicks away from buying a NPPiaB setup yesterday and hesitated.. Now that I've had more time to consider what I was buying, I've started really digging into how to build it myself for far less.. I tried searching the forums for similar posts but didn't come across one yet (feel free to redirect me if you know of one, or I can delete this post).

This looks exactly like what I've seen in other Corvettes for the remote control functionality, for $18...
Amazon Amazon

This 12vdc solenoid that states it works with vacuum, for $11..
Amazon Amazon

Then grab a couple 1/4" to 5/32" NPT hose fittings, then a T fitting to split the vacuum to two lines; One for each muffler.

Figure I'll need 20ft of vacuum hose to be safe, but this 50ft reel is cheaper than anything I've seen (on Amazon), while typing this post, at $17..
Amazon Amazon

I'm thinking I'll buy this kit for the fuse tap since it's about $4 more than just a handful of fuse taps alone (I feel it's better value getting fuses too), for $12..
Amazon Amazon

I have various gauges of wire spools so I'll just match up something to run power to the universal remote control package and probably cut off all of those crush fittings in favor of soldering the connections instead. I suspect I'll run the line up the driver side to either the back of the intake or tap into the brake vacuum hose. My engine, transmission, etc.. Are all out of the car right now, so it'll be easy to pick a safe path to run the hose..

That's kind of where I'm at in my brainstorming, I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any or other input on the subject. I'm really cheap, and I'm thinking I can do this for <$100 easily.. Unless I'm talked out of this somehow, I'll get everything ordered and start installing it throughout this week. If so, I'll take as many pictures deemed helpful along the way, if anyone's interested in copying it (should it work).
Old 04-22-2018, 06:33 PM
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BigBlok502
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You're planning something similar to what I did, except I used a toggle switch to activate. Please keep in mind the solenoid needs an exhaust port, if not the valves will stay closed due to vacuum lock (like sticking a straw in a glass of water, putting your finger over the straw opening and then pulling the straw out, the water will be trapped in the straw until you release your finger.)

Also keep in mind, if you have the valves closed (quite mode,) and then floor it the valves will open anyways as the vacuum drops in the intake manifold. I have not found this to be a problem as I only close the valve while cruising on the highway.

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Old 04-22-2018, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Merritt
So I was within a few clicks away from buying a NPPiaB setup yesterday and hesitated.. Now that I've had more time to consider what I was buying, I've started really digging into how to build it myself for far less.. I tried searching the forums for similar posts but didn't come across one yet (feel free to redirect me if you know of one, or I can delete this post).

This looks exactly like what I've seen in other Corvettes for the remote control functionality, for $18... https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Hea...caebfe9faf3ae9

This 12vdc solenoid that states it works with vacuum, for $11.. https://www.amazon.com/4inch-Normall...solenoid+dc+12

Then grab a couple 1/4" to 5/32" NPT hose fittings, then a T fitting to split the vacuum to two lines; One for each muffler.

Figure I'll need 20ft of vacuum hose to be safe, but this 50ft reel is cheaper than anything I've seen (on Amazon), while typing this post, at $17.. https://www.amazon.com/HBD-3340-Vacu...2%22+hose+20ft

I'm thinking I'll buy this kit for the fuse tap since it's about $4 more than just a handful of fuse taps alone (I feel it's better value getting fuses too), for $12.. https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Assor...=fuse+tap+mini

I have various gauges of wire spools so I'll just match up something to run power to the universal remote control package and probably cut off all of those crush fittings in favor of soldering the connections instead. I suspect I'll run the line up the driver side to either the back of the intake or tap into the brake vacuum hose. My engine, transmission, etc.. Are all out of the car right now, so it'll be easy to pick a safe path to run the hose..

That's kind of where I'm at in my brainstorming, I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any or other input on the subject. I'm really cheap, and I'm thinking I can do this for <$100 easily.. Unless I'm talked out of this somehow, I'll get everything ordered and start installing it throughout this week. If so, I'll take as many pictures deemed helpful along the way, if anyone's interested in copying it (should it work).
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Old 04-22-2018, 09:09 PM
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Aaron Merritt
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Originally Posted by BigBlok502
You're planning something similar to what I did, except I used a toggle switch to activate. Please keep in mind the solenoid needs an exhaust port, if not the valves will stay closed due to vacuum lock (like sticking a straw in a glass of water, putting your finger over the straw opening and then pulling the straw out, the water will be trapped in the straw until you release your finger.)

Also keep in mind, if you have the valves closed (quite mode,) and then floor it the valves will open anyways as the vacuum drops in the intake manifold. I have not found this to be a problem as I only close the valve while cruising on the highway.

https://youtu.be/b85yfhK2Pn4
I'm REALLY glad you replied.. I hadn't considered any relief on the line once it's returned to closed state.. How have you done yours? Few ideas come to mind when considering the necessity to avoid vacuum leaks. Nice video by the way!

I don't think mine should open when given full throttle, since mine is a base Z51. I removed Flowmaster mufflers the previous owners installed and bought a set of '08 Z06 NPPs to install while the car is apart. Thus, there should be two constants: 1) There will always be vacuum to the solenoid, when the engine is running; 2) The only input the solenoid should receive is that from the remote control module passing either true/open or false/closed. Unless the intake pulls some insane vacuum and sucks the solenoid open somehow, haha.

Last edited by Aaron Merritt; 04-22-2018 at 09:13 PM. Reason: Adding another remark/comment..
Old 04-22-2018, 10:45 PM
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Nevermind, a 3 way 2 position solenoid will do the trick.. I was over-complicating it in my head.
Old 04-23-2018, 05:16 PM
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BigBlok502
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Originally Posted by Aaron Merritt
I don't think mine should open when given full throttle, since mine is a base Z51.
Mines a 2006 w/Z51. The vacuum keeps the valves closed at the muffler, so if all you have is the vacuum line hooked to the valves they will stay closed as long as there is vacuum. When you floor it, there is no vacuum for a short period, resulting in the valves at the muffler to open.

If the solenoid you get does not have an exhaust port, in order to open the muffler valves from the closed position you will have to floor the throttle while simultaneously flipping the switch to the solenoid. Make sense?
Old 04-23-2018, 07:38 PM
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Aaron Merritt
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Originally Posted by BigBlok502
Mines a 2006 w/Z51. The vacuum keeps the valves closed at the muffler, so if all you have is the vacuum line hooked to the valves they will stay closed as long as there is vacuum. When you floor it, there is no vacuum for a short period, resulting in the valves at the muffler to open.

If the solenoid you get does not have an exhaust port, in order to open the muffler valves from the closed position you will have to floor the throttle while simultaneously flipping the switch to the solenoid. Make sense?
I see what you're saying. That's weird though, the Z06 mufflers I have right now are naturally closed.. If you open them, there's a spring that pushes them closed again. I presume that means that presenting vacuum would open them? I'll make it work either way, but that's confusing.
Old 04-24-2018, 01:40 AM
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Shaolin Crane
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I bought this switch
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/v...RoCZFkQAvD_BwE
Has a vent and is normally closed. Add 20' of vacuum line and a tank and you're good to go.
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:20 AM
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SteveSierra
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Has anyone got a picture step by step of this diy method.
Looks great and saves a few $s or in my case £s
Old 04-24-2018, 12:00 PM
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Shaolin Crane
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Originally Posted by SteveSierra
Has anyone got a picture step by step of this diy method.
Looks great and saves a few $s or in my case £s
You shouldn't need a picture step by step, it's really simple

1. Mount vacuum solenoid
2. Run vacuum line from manifold to solenoid
3. Mount switch in cabin at your preferred location
4. Run 12v to solenoid and wire switch in between
5. Run vacuum to actuators on mufflers
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Old 04-24-2018, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Shaolin Crane
I bought this switch
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/v...RoCZFkQAvD_BwE
Has a vent and is normally closed. Add 20' of vacuum line and a tank and you're good to go.
Got tired of looking at vague descriptions on Amazon and had concerns about overheating them if I had any prolonged use. Bought the Vintage Air unit you specified above, so thanks for that! I did end up ordering the remote control kit and it'll be here Friday. It finally clicked that I guess the exhaust pushes the valves open and vacuum closes them.. So I'm going to leave a lot of slack on the hose and test it out. I've had a custom ground cam made so I'll see if they start opening going uphill or when vacuum gets low.. If I end up buying a vacuum canister or anything, I'll trim up the hose and report back with pictures of mounting and such. I appreciate ALL of the feedback so far, there's a couple things I wouldn't have thought of until I realized they were going to be problematic.
Old 04-24-2018, 01:40 PM
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Shaolin Crane
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Originally Posted by Aaron Merritt
Got tired of looking at vague descriptions on Amazon and had concerns about overheating them if I had any prolonged use. Bought the Vintage Air unit you specified above, so thanks for that! I did end up ordering the remote control kit and it'll be here Friday. It finally clicked that I guess the exhaust pushes the valves open and vacuum closes them.. So I'm going to leave a lot of slack on the hose and test it out. I've had a custom ground cam made so I'll see if they start opening going uphill or when vacuum gets low.. If I end up buying a vacuum canister or anything, I'll trim up the hose and report back with pictures of mounting and such. I appreciate ALL of the feedback so far, there's a couple things I wouldn't have thought of until I realized they were going to be problematic.
Someone may have changed your actuators then cause factory the vacuum closes them, they are normally open.
Old 04-24-2018, 09:07 PM
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You haven't said, or I missed, the year model of your car. Some mufflers are different, as I recall seeing. I think the difference was mainly how the pipe crosses the axle area.
Old 04-24-2018, 09:12 PM
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Interesting. I hadn't considered that the vacuum has to be released in the line. But, I've got the factory NPP. I just saw such a solenoid on Amazon for $19.95. I'm not assuming this is the item needed but it does look like such is available at a reasonable price.
Old 04-25-2018, 12:47 PM
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Aaron Merritt
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I don't think I ever mentioned the year of mine. Mine is a 2007 Z51 base, the NPP mufflers came off of an '08 Z06 which should fit just fine. I'm pondering whether or not a simple check valve BEFORE the vacuum solenoid would prevent the mufflers from opening under WOT as well.. If I put one before the solenoid, I should still be able to take advantage of the exhaust port to release the vacuum as desired, but the check valve might prevent a drop in vacuum from allowing the valves from opening up when vacuum drops. I'm going to install everything without the check valve and see how it works. If the exhaust opens up under WOT or alike, I'll buy a cheap check valve and try that out.
Old 04-25-2018, 08:24 PM
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I have another idea how to accomplish it. I'm planning on generally leaving my valves open around town but want to be able to close them for freeway trips. I'm going to buy a small vacuum pump and mount it in the storage box in the back. Wire it to a switch inside the console. Power on, valve closed. power off, valve open. Maybe cost less than $25.
Old 04-25-2018, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by farmington
I have another idea how to accomplish it. I'm planning on generally leaving my valves open around town but want to be able to close them for freeway trips. I'm going to buy a small vacuum pump and mount it in the storage box in the back. Wire it to a switch inside the console. Power on, valve closed. power off, valve open. Maybe cost less than $25.
What's wrong with the big vacuum pump with eight cylinders under the hood?

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Old 04-25-2018, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Merritt
I don't think I ever mentioned the year of mine. Mine is a 2007 Z51 base, the NPP mufflers came off of an '08 Z06 which should fit just fine. I'm pondering whether or not a simple check valve BEFORE the vacuum solenoid would prevent the mufflers from opening under WOT as well.. If I put one before the solenoid, I should still be able to take advantage of the exhaust port to release the vacuum as desired, but the check valve might prevent a drop in vacuum from allowing the valves from opening up when vacuum drops. I'm going to install everything without the check valve and see how it works. If the exhaust opens up under WOT or alike, I'll buy a cheap check valve and try that out.
That's what the vacuum reservoir is for, if you install a check valve the valves will never open, or will never allow vacuum to get to the valves. The switch has a vent to be the "check valve" Dorman has a cheap universal tank 47076. There's even a spot near the mufflers to mount it. Don't need to complicate it.
1. Vacuum Line to 12v switch
2. Vacuum Line from switch to tank
3. Vacuum Line from tank to mufflers
4. Wire switch (I'm using a mini fuse tap and wiring my LG shift **** inline)
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Old 04-26-2018, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Shaolin Crane
That's what the vacuum reservoir is for, if you install a check valve the valves will never open, or will never allow vacuum to get to the valves. The switch has a vent to be the "check valve" Dorman has a cheap universal tank 47076. There's even a spot near the mufflers to mount it. Don't need to complicate it.
1. Vacuum Line to 12v switch
2. Vacuum Line from switch to tank
3. Vacuum Line from tank to mufflers
4. Wire switch (I'm using a mini fuse tap and wiring my LG shift **** inline)
Appreciate the insight. I figured the reservoir would be the solution to the issue but wondered about the check valve is all. As far as the other comments about having vacuum pumps, I thought of that also but worried about them putting off too much noise and/or heat. Largely the reason I also used the same vacuum solenoid posted above from Summit Racing instead of the random ones from Amazon, as saving $5 wasn't worth my concerns about something melting/burning.
Old 12-06-2021, 09:35 AM
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Is the tank really necessary?



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