Custom NPP in a Box
#1
Cruising
Thread Starter
Custom NPP in a Box
So I was within a few clicks away from buying a NPPiaB setup yesterday and hesitated.. Now that I've had more time to consider what I was buying, I've started really digging into how to build it myself for far less.. I tried searching the forums for similar posts but didn't come across one yet (feel free to redirect me if you know of one, or I can delete this post).
This looks exactly like what I've seen in other Corvettes for the remote control functionality, for $18...
This 12vdc solenoid that states it works with vacuum, for $11..
Then grab a couple 1/4" to 5/32" NPT hose fittings, then a T fitting to split the vacuum to two lines; One for each muffler.
Figure I'll need 20ft of vacuum hose to be safe, but this 50ft reel is cheaper than anything I've seen (on Amazon), while typing this post, at $17..
I'm thinking I'll buy this kit for the fuse tap since it's about $4 more than just a handful of fuse taps alone (I feel it's better value getting fuses too), for $12..
I have various gauges of wire spools so I'll just match up something to run power to the universal remote control package and probably cut off all of those crush fittings in favor of soldering the connections instead. I suspect I'll run the line up the driver side to either the back of the intake or tap into the brake vacuum hose. My engine, transmission, etc.. Are all out of the car right now, so it'll be easy to pick a safe path to run the hose..
That's kind of where I'm at in my brainstorming, I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any or other input on the subject. I'm really cheap, and I'm thinking I can do this for <$100 easily.. Unless I'm talked out of this somehow, I'll get everything ordered and start installing it throughout this week. If so, I'll take as many pictures deemed helpful along the way, if anyone's interested in copying it (should it work).
This looks exactly like what I've seen in other Corvettes for the remote control functionality, for $18...
This 12vdc solenoid that states it works with vacuum, for $11..
Then grab a couple 1/4" to 5/32" NPT hose fittings, then a T fitting to split the vacuum to two lines; One for each muffler.
Figure I'll need 20ft of vacuum hose to be safe, but this 50ft reel is cheaper than anything I've seen (on Amazon), while typing this post, at $17..
I'm thinking I'll buy this kit for the fuse tap since it's about $4 more than just a handful of fuse taps alone (I feel it's better value getting fuses too), for $12..
I have various gauges of wire spools so I'll just match up something to run power to the universal remote control package and probably cut off all of those crush fittings in favor of soldering the connections instead. I suspect I'll run the line up the driver side to either the back of the intake or tap into the brake vacuum hose. My engine, transmission, etc.. Are all out of the car right now, so it'll be easy to pick a safe path to run the hose..
That's kind of where I'm at in my brainstorming, I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any or other input on the subject. I'm really cheap, and I'm thinking I can do this for <$100 easily.. Unless I'm talked out of this somehow, I'll get everything ordered and start installing it throughout this week. If so, I'll take as many pictures deemed helpful along the way, if anyone's interested in copying it (should it work).
#2
Burning Brakes
You're planning something similar to what I did, except I used a toggle switch to activate. Please keep in mind the solenoid needs an exhaust port, if not the valves will stay closed due to vacuum lock (like sticking a straw in a glass of water, putting your finger over the straw opening and then pulling the straw out, the water will be trapped in the straw until you release your finger.)
Also keep in mind, if you have the valves closed (quite mode,) and then floor it the valves will open anyways as the vacuum drops in the intake manifold. I have not found this to be a problem as I only close the valve while cruising on the highway.
Also keep in mind, if you have the valves closed (quite mode,) and then floor it the valves will open anyways as the vacuum drops in the intake manifold. I have not found this to be a problem as I only close the valve while cruising on the highway.
The following users liked this post:
Aaron Merritt (04-22-2018)
#3
So I was within a few clicks away from buying a NPPiaB setup yesterday and hesitated.. Now that I've had more time to consider what I was buying, I've started really digging into how to build it myself for far less.. I tried searching the forums for similar posts but didn't come across one yet (feel free to redirect me if you know of one, or I can delete this post).
This looks exactly like what I've seen in other Corvettes for the remote control functionality, for $18... https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Hea...caebfe9faf3ae9
This 12vdc solenoid that states it works with vacuum, for $11.. https://www.amazon.com/4inch-Normall...solenoid+dc+12
Then grab a couple 1/4" to 5/32" NPT hose fittings, then a T fitting to split the vacuum to two lines; One for each muffler.
Figure I'll need 20ft of vacuum hose to be safe, but this 50ft reel is cheaper than anything I've seen (on Amazon), while typing this post, at $17.. https://www.amazon.com/HBD-3340-Vacu...2%22+hose+20ft
I'm thinking I'll buy this kit for the fuse tap since it's about $4 more than just a handful of fuse taps alone (I feel it's better value getting fuses too), for $12.. https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Assor...=fuse+tap+mini
I have various gauges of wire spools so I'll just match up something to run power to the universal remote control package and probably cut off all of those crush fittings in favor of soldering the connections instead. I suspect I'll run the line up the driver side to either the back of the intake or tap into the brake vacuum hose. My engine, transmission, etc.. Are all out of the car right now, so it'll be easy to pick a safe path to run the hose..
That's kind of where I'm at in my brainstorming, I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any or other input on the subject. I'm really cheap, and I'm thinking I can do this for <$100 easily.. Unless I'm talked out of this somehow, I'll get everything ordered and start installing it throughout this week. If so, I'll take as many pictures deemed helpful along the way, if anyone's interested in copying it (should it work).
This looks exactly like what I've seen in other Corvettes for the remote control functionality, for $18... https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Hea...caebfe9faf3ae9
This 12vdc solenoid that states it works with vacuum, for $11.. https://www.amazon.com/4inch-Normall...solenoid+dc+12
Then grab a couple 1/4" to 5/32" NPT hose fittings, then a T fitting to split the vacuum to two lines; One for each muffler.
Figure I'll need 20ft of vacuum hose to be safe, but this 50ft reel is cheaper than anything I've seen (on Amazon), while typing this post, at $17.. https://www.amazon.com/HBD-3340-Vacu...2%22+hose+20ft
I'm thinking I'll buy this kit for the fuse tap since it's about $4 more than just a handful of fuse taps alone (I feel it's better value getting fuses too), for $12.. https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Assor...=fuse+tap+mini
I have various gauges of wire spools so I'll just match up something to run power to the universal remote control package and probably cut off all of those crush fittings in favor of soldering the connections instead. I suspect I'll run the line up the driver side to either the back of the intake or tap into the brake vacuum hose. My engine, transmission, etc.. Are all out of the car right now, so it'll be easy to pick a safe path to run the hose..
That's kind of where I'm at in my brainstorming, I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any or other input on the subject. I'm really cheap, and I'm thinking I can do this for <$100 easily.. Unless I'm talked out of this somehow, I'll get everything ordered and start installing it throughout this week. If so, I'll take as many pictures deemed helpful along the way, if anyone's interested in copying it (should it work).
The following users liked this post:
1pt4brd (12-06-2021)
#4
Cruising
Thread Starter
You're planning something similar to what I did, except I used a toggle switch to activate. Please keep in mind the solenoid needs an exhaust port, if not the valves will stay closed due to vacuum lock (like sticking a straw in a glass of water, putting your finger over the straw opening and then pulling the straw out, the water will be trapped in the straw until you release your finger.)
Also keep in mind, if you have the valves closed (quite mode,) and then floor it the valves will open anyways as the vacuum drops in the intake manifold. I have not found this to be a problem as I only close the valve while cruising on the highway.
https://youtu.be/b85yfhK2Pn4
Also keep in mind, if you have the valves closed (quite mode,) and then floor it the valves will open anyways as the vacuum drops in the intake manifold. I have not found this to be a problem as I only close the valve while cruising on the highway.
https://youtu.be/b85yfhK2Pn4
I don't think mine should open when given full throttle, since mine is a base Z51. I removed Flowmaster mufflers the previous owners installed and bought a set of '08 Z06 NPPs to install while the car is apart. Thus, there should be two constants: 1) There will always be vacuum to the solenoid, when the engine is running; 2) The only input the solenoid should receive is that from the remote control module passing either true/open or false/closed. Unless the intake pulls some insane vacuum and sucks the solenoid open somehow, haha.
Last edited by Aaron Merritt; 04-22-2018 at 09:13 PM. Reason: Adding another remark/comment..
#6
Burning Brakes
If the solenoid you get does not have an exhaust port, in order to open the muffler valves from the closed position you will have to floor the throttle while simultaneously flipping the switch to the solenoid. Make sense?
#7
Cruising
Thread Starter
Mines a 2006 w/Z51. The vacuum keeps the valves closed at the muffler, so if all you have is the vacuum line hooked to the valves they will stay closed as long as there is vacuum. When you floor it, there is no vacuum for a short period, resulting in the valves at the muffler to open.
If the solenoid you get does not have an exhaust port, in order to open the muffler valves from the closed position you will have to floor the throttle while simultaneously flipping the switch to the solenoid. Make sense?
If the solenoid you get does not have an exhaust port, in order to open the muffler valves from the closed position you will have to floor the throttle while simultaneously flipping the switch to the solenoid. Make sense?
#8
Melting Slicks
I bought this switch
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/v...RoCZFkQAvD_BwE
Has a vent and is normally closed. Add 20' of vacuum line and a tank and you're good to go.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/v...RoCZFkQAvD_BwE
Has a vent and is normally closed. Add 20' of vacuum line and a tank and you're good to go.
The following users liked this post:
Aaron Merritt (04-24-2018)
#10
Melting Slicks
1. Mount vacuum solenoid
2. Run vacuum line from manifold to solenoid
3. Mount switch in cabin at your preferred location
4. Run 12v to solenoid and wire switch in between
5. Run vacuum to actuators on mufflers
The following users liked this post:
Aaron Merritt (04-24-2018)
#11
Cruising
Thread Starter
I bought this switch
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/v...RoCZFkQAvD_BwE
Has a vent and is normally closed. Add 20' of vacuum line and a tank and you're good to go.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/v...RoCZFkQAvD_BwE
Has a vent and is normally closed. Add 20' of vacuum line and a tank and you're good to go.
#12
Melting Slicks
Got tired of looking at vague descriptions on Amazon and had concerns about overheating them if I had any prolonged use. Bought the Vintage Air unit you specified above, so thanks for that! I did end up ordering the remote control kit and it'll be here Friday. It finally clicked that I guess the exhaust pushes the valves open and vacuum closes them.. So I'm going to leave a lot of slack on the hose and test it out. I've had a custom ground cam made so I'll see if they start opening going uphill or when vacuum gets low.. If I end up buying a vacuum canister or anything, I'll trim up the hose and report back with pictures of mounting and such. I appreciate ALL of the feedback so far, there's a couple things I wouldn't have thought of until I realized they were going to be problematic.
#13
You haven't said, or I missed, the year model of your car. Some mufflers are different, as I recall seeing. I think the difference was mainly how the pipe crosses the axle area.
#14
Interesting. I hadn't considered that the vacuum has to be released in the line. But, I've got the factory NPP. I just saw such a solenoid on Amazon for $19.95. I'm not assuming this is the item needed but it does look like such is available at a reasonable price.
#15
Cruising
Thread Starter
I don't think I ever mentioned the year of mine. Mine is a 2007 Z51 base, the NPP mufflers came off of an '08 Z06 which should fit just fine. I'm pondering whether or not a simple check valve BEFORE the vacuum solenoid would prevent the mufflers from opening under WOT as well.. If I put one before the solenoid, I should still be able to take advantage of the exhaust port to release the vacuum as desired, but the check valve might prevent a drop in vacuum from allowing the valves from opening up when vacuum drops. I'm going to install everything without the check valve and see how it works. If the exhaust opens up under WOT or alike, I'll buy a cheap check valve and try that out.
#16
Safety Car
I have another idea how to accomplish it. I'm planning on generally leaving my valves open around town but want to be able to close them for freeway trips. I'm going to buy a small vacuum pump and mount it in the storage box in the back. Wire it to a switch inside the console. Power on, valve closed. power off, valve open. Maybe cost less than $25.
#17
Melting Slicks
I have another idea how to accomplish it. I'm planning on generally leaving my valves open around town but want to be able to close them for freeway trips. I'm going to buy a small vacuum pump and mount it in the storage box in the back. Wire it to a switch inside the console. Power on, valve closed. power off, valve open. Maybe cost less than $25.
#18
Melting Slicks
I don't think I ever mentioned the year of mine. Mine is a 2007 Z51 base, the NPP mufflers came off of an '08 Z06 which should fit just fine. I'm pondering whether or not a simple check valve BEFORE the vacuum solenoid would prevent the mufflers from opening under WOT as well.. If I put one before the solenoid, I should still be able to take advantage of the exhaust port to release the vacuum as desired, but the check valve might prevent a drop in vacuum from allowing the valves from opening up when vacuum drops. I'm going to install everything without the check valve and see how it works. If the exhaust opens up under WOT or alike, I'll buy a cheap check valve and try that out.
1. Vacuum Line to 12v switch
2. Vacuum Line from switch to tank
3. Vacuum Line from tank to mufflers
4. Wire switch (I'm using a mini fuse tap and wiring my LG shift **** inline)
The following users liked this post:
Aaron Merritt (04-26-2018)
#19
Cruising
Thread Starter
That's what the vacuum reservoir is for, if you install a check valve the valves will never open, or will never allow vacuum to get to the valves. The switch has a vent to be the "check valve" Dorman has a cheap universal tank 47076. There's even a spot near the mufflers to mount it. Don't need to complicate it.
1. Vacuum Line to 12v switch
2. Vacuum Line from switch to tank
3. Vacuum Line from tank to mufflers
4. Wire switch (I'm using a mini fuse tap and wiring my LG shift **** inline)
1. Vacuum Line to 12v switch
2. Vacuum Line from switch to tank
3. Vacuum Line from tank to mufflers
4. Wire switch (I'm using a mini fuse tap and wiring my LG shift **** inline)