Fuel Preferences
#1
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Fuel Preferences
Has anyone actually found using certain brands of gasoline, that they offer a significant benefit, over off brands ?
The big oil claims have been around for decades. Are they really better ?
The big oil claims have been around for decades. Are they really better ?
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stymie222 (06-04-2018)
#3
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C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
As long as it's 91 octane 100% gas no alcohol, I'm in.
#4
Le Mans Master
Well, burn what you want , but GM says to use top tier fuel in the C6 to keep the components clean.. Top tier fuel like Sunoco ,BP, Shell,and others have more additives that keep the system cleaner then the other fuels..If your gas gauge stops working because of corrosion at the fuel pump and needs to be replaced, you will wish you had used a top tier fuel...WW
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Last edited by WW7; 06-04-2018 at 09:58 AM.
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stymie222 (06-04-2018)
#5
LOL....You're asking for the whole slew of "Experts" to come out with this one. Top Tier....Middle Tier.....left Tier.....Right Tier....Etc...Etc....Etc.....LOL. I've used all types of fuel from all types of stations. Never heard...felt....smelled, or experienced any difference. Heck....I even run mid grade octane through it from time to time when the price for premium is high balled....(B@#$%#S).....but just what the hell do I know.....
#6
Race Director
LOL....You're asking for the whole slew of "Experts" to come out with this one. Top Tier....Middle Tier.....left Tier.....Right Tier....Etc...Etc....Etc.....LOL. I've used all types of fuel from all types of stations. Never heard...felt....smelled, or experienced any difference. Heck....I even run mid grade octane through it from time to time when the price for premium is high balled....(B@#$%#S).....but just what the hell do I know.....
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stymie222 (06-04-2018)
#8
Drifting
Many (including WindyC6) poo poo top tier. Indeed, all gas sold in the US must have a reasonably good additive package, such that engines will remain reasonably clean. But top tier additive packages are better. If you tear down a 50,000 mile engine that has been run consistently on top tier versus cheapo gas, the engine run on top tier will be noticeably cleaner. I know, because I’ve seen such tests with my own eyes. The improved long term cleanliness is why GM and most other car makers recommend top tier. Will you be able to tell any difference in a tank or two, or even ten? Nope. But is the difference there over the long haul? Yup. And as far as Windy’s use of quotes around “experts”, I spent a career in the oil industry witnessing, among other things, such tests, and GM’s engineers who recommend top tier know a thing or two also. Of course, if you’re a conspiracy fan, I could be lying about my credentials and GM engineers could be lying in order to get a big payoff from oil companies or maybe it’s to get license fees for top tier. I’ve seen any number of such cockeyed theories on the forum.
But back to your question, if you use cheapo, will your engine be an old bucket of bolts at 50,000 miles? Of course not. It will still be running ok, and odds that it will have had a fuel-related problem are very low. But will it be running as smoothly and as close to showroom new as an engine run on top tier. Nope. Does that justify the added cost of top tier? Your choice. Mine, paid for out of my wallet for my cars is yup.
But back to your question, if you use cheapo, will your engine be an old bucket of bolts at 50,000 miles? Of course not. It will still be running ok, and odds that it will have had a fuel-related problem are very low. But will it be running as smoothly and as close to showroom new as an engine run on top tier. Nope. Does that justify the added cost of top tier? Your choice. Mine, paid for out of my wallet for my cars is yup.
#9
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Well, burn what you want , but GM says to use top tier fuel in the C6 to keep the components clean.. Top tier fuel like Sunoco ,BP, Shell,and others have more additives that keep the system cleaner then the other fuels..If your gas gauge stops working because of corrosion at the fuel pump and needs to be replaced, you will wish you had used a top tier fuel...WW
.
.
As I noted on another thread, I always fill up with top tier with corn even though there's a high-test, corn-free, not top tier alternative a half-mile away.
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stymie222 (06-04-2018)
#10
When I had a Harley in the early through late 90's it did run noticeably better on Shell or Amaco, but didn't notice a difference in my cars. On my DD 1999 explorer previous owner always used 93 octane even though it calls for 87, I used 93 for a few fill ups but went to 87 with no difference. I did mix a few ounces of fuel stabil for a couple fillups and I swear it seemed to run smoother .. maybe some dyno operators can chime in
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stymie222 (06-04-2018)
#11
Think you might need a math lesson there uh Rosey. At 18 gallons and a diff of about 60 cents a gallon...(round here anyway)...that comes out to closer to the $10+ area. Besides...not so much the thought of saving the $$$....but more of the idea of not giving them B@#$%&DS more than they deserve. Not sure about where you are at...but back when the price of a gallon of reg white gas was about $4 a jug....the difference between low tane and high tane was about 20 cents a gallon. Now that they have the price down in the $2+ range around here they stick it right in your A$$ on the high tane stuff cause round here it's about 50 - 60 cents higher. And that may or may not even be a "Top Tier" station !!!...LOLOL.
Last edited by windyC6; 06-04-2018 at 03:14 PM.
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stymie222 (06-04-2018)
#15
Team Owner
Recommended Fuel
If the vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine
(VIN Code W), use premium
unleaded gasoline with a posted
octane rating of 91 or higher.
You can also use regular unleaded
gasoline rated at 87 octane or
higher, but the vehicle's acceleration
could be slightly reduced, and a
slight audible knocking noise,
commonly referred to as spark
knock, might be heard. If the octane
is less than 87, a heavy knocking
noise might be heard when driving.
If this occurs, use a gasoline rated
at 87 octane or higher as soon as
possible. Otherwise, you could
damage the engine. If heavy
knocking is heard when using
gasoline rated at 87 octane or
higher, the engine needs service.
If the vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine
(VIN Code T) or the 7.0L V8 engine
(VIN Code E), use premium
unleaded gasoline with a posted
octane rating of 91 or higher.
If the vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine
(VIN Code W), use premium
unleaded gasoline with a posted
octane rating of 91 or higher.
You can also use regular unleaded
gasoline rated at 87 octane or
higher, but the vehicle's acceleration
could be slightly reduced, and a
slight audible knocking noise,
commonly referred to as spark
knock, might be heard. If the octane
is less than 87, a heavy knocking
noise might be heard when driving.
If this occurs, use a gasoline rated
at 87 octane or higher as soon as
possible. Otherwise, you could
damage the engine. If heavy
knocking is heard when using
gasoline rated at 87 octane or
higher, the engine needs service.
If the vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine
(VIN Code T) or the 7.0L V8 engine
(VIN Code E), use premium
unleaded gasoline with a posted
octane rating of 91 or higher.
Last edited by Vette_DD; 06-04-2018 at 04:39 PM.
#16
Drifting
“Just fine” is a relative term. True, the knock sensors will keep you out of major trouble by retarding the spark when lower octane gas causes knocking to start, and also true, the acceleration and mileage loss from retarding the spark will be minor. But think about what’s happening. Over and over and over and over and over again, your engine will go through the following cycle. Low octane gas causes knocking which is quickly detected by the knock sensors. Spark is retarded almost instantly so that there’s only a brief, mild pinging rather than a major, hard, knock or detonation incident. But since your engine is tuned for premium, after you’ve driven a bit, it will return the spark to design conditions, so the cycle will repeat. If you run a tank of regular now and then, since the “mini-knock” episodes caused by this cycle are not individually very serious, odds of it causing a problem are extremely low. You might even get away with it for the life of your car. But if you run consistently on regular, your engine is going to run through hundreds, if not thousands of those cycles over its lifetime. There is no way to tell the ECM to permanently leave the timing retarded. It’s just a dumb computer, and will keep going back to factory advance until the next time you punch the throttle and trigger the knock sensors. I suppose if you drive like the proverbial little old lady and never punch the throttle, you’re safe even then. But if that’s the way you drive, why are you driving a Vette. Makes no sense to me.
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stymie222 (06-04-2018)
#17
Le Mans Master
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Location: Morris County New Jersey
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To get peak performance out your Corvette, octane is important just like it is in most high performance engines. It might not make much of a difference in normal around town driving but for those occasions when I feel the need to stomp on the go pedal, I would like all my available horses to be there.
Disclaimer: I copied most of this post from a previous post of mine on a Ram forum but changed some language to have it apply to Corvettes.
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stymie222 (06-04-2018)
#18
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stymie222 (06-04-2018)
#19
Race Director
Think you might need a math lesson there uh Rosey. At 18 gallons and a diff of about 60 cents a gallon...(round here anyway)...that comes out to closer to the $10+ area. Besides...not so much the thought of saving the $$$....but more of the idea of not giving them B@#$%&DS more than they deserve. Not sure about where you are at...but back when the price of a gallon of reg white gas was about $4 a jug....the difference between low tane and high tane was about 20 cents a gallon. Now that they have the price down in the $2+ range around here they stick it right in your A$$ on the high tane stuff cause round here it's about 50 - 60 cents higher. And that may or may not even be a "Top Tier" station !!!...LOLOL.
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stymie222 (06-04-2018)
#20
Many (including WindyC6) poo poo top tier. Indeed, all gas sold in the US must have a reasonably good additive package, such that engines will remain reasonably clean. But top tier additive packages are better. If you tear down a 50,000 mile engine that has been run consistently on top tier versus cheapo gas, the engine run on top tier will be noticeably cleaner. I know, because I’ve seen such tests with my own eyes. The improved long term cleanliness is why GM and most other car makers recommend top tier. Will you be able to tell any difference in a tank or two, or even ten? Nope. But is the difference there over the long haul? Yup. And as far as Windy’s use of quotes around “experts”, I spent a career in the oil industry witnessing, among other things, such tests, and GM’s engineers who recommend top tier know a thing or two also. Of course, if you’re a conspiracy fan, I could be lying about my credentials and GM engineers could be lying in order to get a big payoff from oil companies or maybe it’s to get license fees for top tier. I’ve seen any number of such cockeyed theories on the forum.
But back to your question, if you use cheapo, will your engine be an old bucket of bolts at 50,000 miles? Of course not. It will still be running ok, and odds that it will have had a fuel-related problem are very low. But will it be running as smoothly and as close to showroom new as an engine run on top tier. Nope. Does that justify the added cost of top tier? Your choice. Mine, paid for out of my wallet for my cars is yup.
But back to your question, if you use cheapo, will your engine be an old bucket of bolts at 50,000 miles? Of course not. It will still be running ok, and odds that it will have had a fuel-related problem are very low. But will it be running as smoothly and as close to showroom new as an engine run on top tier. Nope. Does that justify the added cost of top tier? Your choice. Mine, paid for out of my wallet for my cars is yup.
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stymie222 (06-04-2018)