My 05 C6 is dangerous to drive
#81
Race Director
WOW- talk about bad luck.......
That really sux.
At least you can rest assured that your car's in good hands.
That really sux.
At least you can rest assured that your car's in good hands.
#82
Racer
After you get the car back, you need to do a complete operational inspection , so no more surprizes.
#83
Team Owner
So for those of you who are still subscribed to this thread here's where I now stand after not having a working car for 8 weeks.
After spending almost $760 for a new a brand new BCM, install, and program at my local Chevy in Washing dealer assuming from my BCM was bad from the first diagnosis in Florida. They came back saying that I had a bad ECM "engine control module" without any assurance that this was exactly my issue mentioning that I may need to buy even more parts due to their "corvette specialist tech" not knowing where the issue was even steaming from.
After being fed up with Chevy I decided to take my car to Corvettes of Auburn with Dan which quickly became the best decision I had made since the issue first started.
His tech there Josh is a guru when it comes to any generation of Corvette. After his diagnosis of putting up a Volt meter to the ECM when the car would die, he gave me his full assurance that this is what my problem had been stemming from all along.
Throughout searching the E40 ECM became almost impossible to find as it was "nationally back ordered" throughout Chevy dealers along with being sold out from local shops all over the country. (some C6 corvettes have been down for over 6 months due to not finding one.)
After 30 different phone calls I finally found one and was able to get it installed and programmed in the car within the week.
Picking up the car and finally driving it after 8 weeks definitely felt good.
However, after almost investing over 2 grand into this issue my next step is going to be attempting to getting money back from so many miss diagnosis's from Chevy. Any helpful ideas how to go about this matter are appropriated.
If you are in the Washington area I cant emphasize enough how great Corvettes of Auburn staff and work has been, and highly recommend them for all types of work they do it all. Headers, superchargers, tunes, body work you name it.
Also thanks to all of your input and recommendations trying to figure this issue out.
After spending almost $760 for a new a brand new BCM, install, and program at my local Chevy in Washing dealer assuming from my BCM was bad from the first diagnosis in Florida. They came back saying that I had a bad ECM "engine control module" without any assurance that this was exactly my issue mentioning that I may need to buy even more parts due to their "corvette specialist tech" not knowing where the issue was even steaming from.
After being fed up with Chevy I decided to take my car to Corvettes of Auburn with Dan which quickly became the best decision I had made since the issue first started.
His tech there Josh is a guru when it comes to any generation of Corvette. After his diagnosis of putting up a Volt meter to the ECM when the car would die, he gave me his full assurance that this is what my problem had been stemming from all along.
Throughout searching the E40 ECM became almost impossible to find as it was "nationally back ordered" throughout Chevy dealers along with being sold out from local shops all over the country. (some C6 corvettes have been down for over 6 months due to not finding one.)
After 30 different phone calls I finally found one and was able to get it installed and programmed in the car within the week.
Picking up the car and finally driving it after 8 weeks definitely felt good.
However, after almost investing over 2 grand into this issue my next step is going to be attempting to getting money back from so many miss diagnosis's from Chevy. Any helpful ideas how to go about this matter are appropriated.
If you are in the Washington area I cant emphasize enough how great Corvettes of Auburn staff and work has been, and highly recommend them for all types of work they do it all. Headers, superchargers, tunes, body work you name it.
Also thanks to all of your input and recommendations trying to figure this issue out.
#85
Former Vendor
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Ossining New York
Posts: 11,792
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Yes, usually I have a few of them......
Yes, usually I have a few of them...... I generally get 3 calls a week for them...
I'm also pretty helpful with diagnostics too.
Most often I'll get you another ECM, stat, tune, CoW BOOSTER!, and an autocal cheaper than you can have the diag and repair done
at a dealership...... and with ME, the car is fixed.... and AMAZING! .... and after the dealer fix.... The car is STOCK.... HO Hum......
Call any time. 914-332-0049
Chuck CoW
Last edited by Chuck CoW; 07-27-2018 at 01:39 AM.
#86
Instructor
Same issue different car
I'm in Phoenix. I have a 2010 GS convertible with 14K miles that I bought about a year ago with slightly over 10K. I had almost the exact same problem as the OP happen to me today. I had driven the car about 25 miles, all temps were in the normal range, parked with the car off for about an hour. Started the car, drove less than a 1/2 mile stopped at an intersection, the engine died, I got Traction Control warning, Reduced engine power warning etc.. There were a couple of differences however, just before the car died I saw the voltage on the gauge below 13 (not news in Phoenix in the heat with A/C on at idle) and I couldn't turn the car completely off, I had a solid yellow light and flashing red light on the ignition switch. Since I was stuck in a travel lane on a busy road I turned on my flashers, luckily they worked just fine. After about 15 minutes I was successful in restarting the car, moved it into a parking lot and waited for the tow truck. When we got to the shop, the owner connected a tech II (real one) and said there were almost to many codes to count. He recommended a battery. Funny thing though, I had just had my battery and alternator checked at a local Autozone a couple of weeks ago. So today, I left the shop, successfully drove the car home, removed the battery and took it to autozone. They tested it as good. This is the first time the car has quit on me and now I don't trust it. I'm supposed to go to Tucson on the 5th of August but I'm not getting on the I-10 for 90 miles of desert driving with a car that might die at any moment.
#87
I have a one owner 2013 grand sport, 12,000 miles. Took wife to dinner 2 weeks ago, car turned off while driving, everything turned off...dash lights went out, power steering went out. I could turn the hazards on and they would come on, blinking hazard lights on the dash. I limped the car off the road, hit the push button start and it immediately fired back up. Drove to dinner, on way home...getting off the highway exit it does the exact same thing losing power. Pull to side of road, fires right back up. I have not driven it since. Just started researching this....have no clue where to begin. Scary problem, wife cant drive it, she could dump the car if she loses power steering during operation. It appears this problem is not isolated to me....
#88
Team Owner
I have a one owner 2013 grand sport, 12,000 miles. Took wife to dinner 2 weeks ago, car turned off while driving, everything turned off...dash lights went out, power steering went out. I could turn the hazards on and they would come on, blinking hazard lights on the dash. I limped the car off the road, hit the push button start and it immediately fired back up. Drove to dinner, on way home...getting off the highway exit it does the exact same thing losing power. Pull to side of road, fires right back up. I have not driven it since. Just started researching this....have no clue where to begin. Scary problem, wife cant drive it, she could dump the car if she loses power steering during operation. It appears this problem is not isolated to me....
#89
I have a one owner 2013 grand sport, 12,000 miles. Took wife to dinner 2 weeks ago, car turned off while driving, everything turned off...dash lights went out, power steering went out. I could turn the hazards on and they would come on, blinking hazard lights on the dash. I limped the car off the road, hit the push button start and it immediately fired back up. Drove to dinner, on way home...getting off the highway exit it does the exact same thing losing power. Pull to side of road, fires right back up. I have not driven it since. Just started researching this....have no clue where to begin. Scary problem, wife cant drive it, she could dump the car if she loses power steering during operation. It appears this problem is not isolated to me....
I'm in Phoenix. I have a 2010 GS convertible with 14K miles that I bought about a year ago with slightly over 10K. I had almost the exact same problem as the OP happen to me today. I had driven the car about 25 miles, all temps were in the normal range, parked with the car off for about an hour. Started the car, drove less than a 1/2 mile stopped at an intersection, the engine died, I got Traction Control warning, Reduced engine power warning etc.. There were a couple of differences however, just before the car died I saw the voltage on the gauge below 13 (not news in Phoenix in the heat with A/C on at idle) and I couldn't turn the car completely off, I had a solid yellow light and flashing red light on the ignition switch. Since I was stuck in a travel lane on a busy road I turned on my flashers, luckily they worked just fine. After about 15 minutes I was successful in restarting the car, moved it into a parking lot and waited for the tow truck. When we got to the shop, the owner connected a tech II (real one) and said there were almost to many codes to count. He recommended a battery. Funny thing though, I had just had my battery and alternator checked at a local Autozone a couple of weeks ago. So today, I left the shop, successfully drove the car home, removed the battery and took it to autozone. They tested it as good. This is the first time the car has quit on me and now I don't trust it. I'm supposed to go to Tucson on the 5th of August but I'm not getting on the I-10 for 90 miles of desert driving with a car that might die at any moment.
I was told that these ECM's are just now starting to go bad due to corvettes sitting around without being driven. Depending on what year you have they make diffrent ECM's, mine being a 2005 I had the "infamous E40" which has been known to go bad down the road. The tech that diagnosed the car and found out exactly why my car was dying first looked at my ECM by hooking up a volt meter up to it when the car would cut out and was able to figure out that is where it was stemming from. If you have any other questions about this feel free to leave a comment because I have dealt with this issue which went on for 2 months.
#90
Instructor
Exactly, and the body shop and restorations I've heard are 10/10 and funny you would mention. Adding onto my bad luck, an hour have finally having the car and driving the car home. I set the handbrake however, not fully locked and the car slowly rolled down a hill and fell into my neighbors driveway... The front left fender, bumper, side skirts, and rear bumper all cracked so now the car is back with Dan and getting repaired. So basically i'm out of a car for another 3 or 4 weeks. I sure love my C6 but my luck with it has been quite an interesting journey.
#91
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2010
Location: T-Town WA
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#92
Matthobbs.........I assume your 05 is a 6 spd since it rolled down the hill. You MUST ALWAYS put your 05 in reverse when parking, or else you will have electrical problems and a lot of dead batteries from parasitic drain..........If you don't mind telling, what did you pay for the ECM and was it new, rebuilt or used?........Thanks.
Last edited by Matthobs; 07-30-2018 at 05:45 PM.
#93
Instructor
Gunslinger and Bsull, sounds like both of you have the same issue I was brought upon. One of the first things I would do is hook up an OBD II scanner to it and check what codes comes back from your check engine light (if you have one). Mine came back with a P0601-00 Control module right from when the car shut down on me the first time. Not knowing any better I took the car to Chevy (which ill never do again) and the car came back with 25 different codes revolved around wires,sensor, and computers. It had been because of this that I went on a wild goose chase getting them to diagnose exactly where the problem was stemming from, due to when a corvette shuts down like this it throws so many different codes. Finally finding out that my problem was coming from my ECM (engine control module) being shot finally was what fixed my car from shutting down every 5 minutes. I should mention that when it first occurred it would only shut down every 10-20 mins and progressively got worse as I had to drive the car almost 80 miles to get home.
I was told that these ECM's are just now starting to go bad due to corvettes sitting around without being driven. Depending on what year you have they make diffrent ECM's, mine being a 2005 I had the "infamous E40" which has been known to go bad down the road. The tech that diagnosed the car and found out exactly why my car was dying first looked at my ECM by hooking up a volt meter up to it when the car would cut out and was able to figure out that is where it was stemming from. If you have any other questions about this feel free to leave a comment because I have dealt with this issue which went on for 2 months.
I was told that these ECM's are just now starting to go bad due to corvettes sitting around without being driven. Depending on what year you have they make diffrent ECM's, mine being a 2005 I had the "infamous E40" which has been known to go bad down the road. The tech that diagnosed the car and found out exactly why my car was dying first looked at my ECM by hooking up a volt meter up to it when the car would cut out and was able to figure out that is where it was stemming from. If you have any other questions about this feel free to leave a comment because I have dealt with this issue which went on for 2 months.
I spent the money to replace the battery just for my peace of mind, even though Autozone says the old one tested good. I have a VCX Nano, when I connected it after the battery replacement, I DID NOT have any stored codes (pardon the yelling). I have driven the car about 150 miles since without issue. I will recheck stored codes tomorrow morning, garage temp is just a bit high in the afternoon. Subjectively the voltage indication in the DIC seems a bit higher, I haven't seen anything below 13.5 yet. Temperatures are not significantly different from the day I had the issue. It may be wishful thinking, but I'm hoping the new battery combined with cleaning the connectors etc. has solved my problem. I will update tomorrow if I find anything when I connect the Nano tomorrow.
#94
Instructor
Thanks for the suggestion. I replaced the battery, VCX Nano / Tech2win did not see any stored codes after new battery. If GM does not store codes in non-volatile memory, then I erased them when I disconnected the battery. I'll recheck tomorrow AM to see if more have shown up, I've driven about 150 miles since replacing the battery, that's about 6 start / stop cycles, and haven't had another issue yet. I'm being redundant here, but I subjectively see the voltage as being .3/.4 volts higher when at idle, with a quicker recovery time once the RPM increases.
#95
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Member Since: Mar 2010
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Thanks for the suggestion. I replaced the battery, VCX Nano / Tech2win did not see any stored codes after new battery. If GM does not store codes in non-volatile memory, then I erased them when I disconnected the battery. I'll recheck tomorrow AM to see if more have shown up, I've driven about 150 miles since replacing the battery, that's about 6 start / stop cycles, and haven't had another issue yet. I'm being redundant here, but I subjectively see the voltage as being .3/.4 volts higher when at idle, with a quicker recovery time once the RPM increases.
#96
Former Vendor
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Ossining New York
Posts: 11,792
Received 243 Likes
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
usually is... fixed.. no more foolin.....saves money- - Chuck Cow is the mqm qmd mdm
Yes, usually I have a few of them...... I generally get 3 calls a week for them...
I'm also pretty helpful with diagnostics too.
Most often I'll get you another ECM, stat, tune, CoW BOOSTER!, and an autocal cheaper than you can have the diag and repair done
at a dealership...... and with ME, the car is fixed.... and AMAZING! .... and after the dealer fix.... The car is STOCK.... HO Hum......
Call any time. 914-332-0049
Chuck CoW
#97
Instructor
#98
Race Director
You need to pick up a digital multimeter. It's an invaluable tool to have in your toolbox.
#99
Instructor
I have a digital multimeter, it will show instantaneous voltage but will not test the battery under load. I've had many batteries in cars and motorcycles that will show 12.xx volts or more, take a charge on a battery tender or regular battery charger but will fail under load. I don't know how the current crop of testers used in auto parts stores test the battery, it doesn't seem to take any time at all but they all say they "load" test the battery. Testers used even a few years ago seemed to take a minute or two at least before they could say the battery was good or bad.
#100
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2010
Location: T-Town WA
Posts: 15,101
Received 3,626 Likes
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2016 C6 of Year Finalist