End links - Engineers/Steel Gurus - Please PEEK inside.
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
End links - Engineers/Steel Gurus - Please PEEK inside.
Hey guys,
I am getting Adjustable end-links for my Z51 sway bars, which I am upgrading springs and shocks.
Recently, came across a pretty good deal for "Adjustable End Links" - which are offered in 2 models for our C6. I questioned the company about the difference in the 2 models. I got a pretty technical reply, so in lay man's terms, if you can help me figure out which would be better and why. Thanks in advance!
1st -
This kit utilized our chrome moly (chromium-molybdenum) rod ends manufactured out of 4130 material. The ’30’ in 4130 indicates that there is approximately 0.30% carbon by weight. The rod ends have been heat treated, water quenched then tempered to give them a minimum hardness of 108 Rockwell B. After hardening, they are then finished with a bright chrome polish.
The ball is manufactured out of 52100 tool steel with is what most aircraft bearing are made from. it is also heat treated but to a minimum of 56 Rockwell C then hard chrome plated.
The liner is Nylon, which is constructed of both long glass and Molybdenum Disufide, sorry I can’t give away the Intellectual Properties of the exact makeup.
As for ratings, We have a minimum radial static load of 17,000 lb-ft and a maximum breakaway torque of 225 oz-in.
2nd -
This kit utilized our carbon steel rod ends. The rod ends have been heat treated to a minimum of 56 Rockwell C. After heat treating, they are then plated Zinc Clear. While they are Zinc Clear, they are not Hexavalent Free so they are not compliant in the DIN standards.
The ball is similar to the other kit
The liner is made of PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene). The PTFE is not a fibrous material and is permanently bonded to the housing. It is typically known for it’s self-lubricating and self-healing properties.
As for ratings, We have a minimum radial static load of 5700 lb-ft. The breakaway torque is not a concern on this line of rod ends so we don’t specify what it should be.
I am getting Adjustable end-links for my Z51 sway bars, which I am upgrading springs and shocks.
Recently, came across a pretty good deal for "Adjustable End Links" - which are offered in 2 models for our C6. I questioned the company about the difference in the 2 models. I got a pretty technical reply, so in lay man's terms, if you can help me figure out which would be better and why. Thanks in advance!
1st -
This kit utilized our chrome moly (chromium-molybdenum) rod ends manufactured out of 4130 material. The ’30’ in 4130 indicates that there is approximately 0.30% carbon by weight. The rod ends have been heat treated, water quenched then tempered to give them a minimum hardness of 108 Rockwell B. After hardening, they are then finished with a bright chrome polish.
The ball is manufactured out of 52100 tool steel with is what most aircraft bearing are made from. it is also heat treated but to a minimum of 56 Rockwell C then hard chrome plated.
The liner is Nylon, which is constructed of both long glass and Molybdenum Disufide, sorry I can’t give away the Intellectual Properties of the exact makeup.
As for ratings, We have a minimum radial static load of 17,000 lb-ft and a maximum breakaway torque of 225 oz-in.
2nd -
This kit utilized our carbon steel rod ends. The rod ends have been heat treated to a minimum of 56 Rockwell C. After heat treating, they are then plated Zinc Clear. While they are Zinc Clear, they are not Hexavalent Free so they are not compliant in the DIN standards.
The ball is similar to the other kit
The liner is made of PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene). The PTFE is not a fibrous material and is permanently bonded to the housing. It is typically known for it’s self-lubricating and self-healing properties.
As for ratings, We have a minimum radial static load of 5700 lb-ft. The breakaway torque is not a concern on this line of rod ends so we don’t specify what it should be.
Last edited by Vette_Fan; 06-08-2018 at 05:12 PM.
#2
Race Director
If you're going to be racing, get the first, if it's just for street, get the second.
The following users liked this post:
Vette_Fan (06-09-2018)
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Sounds great. My goals are: Spirited driving, Hills, Planted straights, sharp corners, and Street driving. Care to tell me in lay man's terms reason for your recommendations! - Thanks
Last edited by Vette_Fan; 06-09-2018 at 06:57 AM.
#4
Race Director
The first is made of a much stronger metal composition that's designed to hold up to the stresses from track use. That's where the 17,000 ft.lb. rating comes in compared to the lesser rating on the second.
#5
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16,555
Received 2,061 Likes
on
1,505 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
You can make your own at whatever strength you want. Just order the ball joint rod ends in the size, material, and type of insert you want from the McMaster-Carr catalog. Prices range from around $4 to $24 for each end. If you want the very best MIL-B-81935, they'll be in the $175-200 range.
BTW, here's a few thing to think about.
High static load is not as important as shock-load.
Almost all rod ends use 52100 chrome plated bearing steel *****.
Nylon absorbs/desorbs water resulting in dimensional changes.
Both the Z06 and ZR1 use the same links as the base car.
The bottom line is that you can "kit" your own adjustable links for somewhere in the $50-200 area for the whole car.
I use the OEM aluminum links on the rear and none on the front when I drag race, since it's all about weight.
BTW, here's a few thing to think about.
High static load is not as important as shock-load.
Almost all rod ends use 52100 chrome plated bearing steel *****.
Nylon absorbs/desorbs water resulting in dimensional changes.
Both the Z06 and ZR1 use the same links as the base car.
The bottom line is that you can "kit" your own adjustable links for somewhere in the $50-200 area for the whole car.
I use the OEM aluminum links on the rear and none on the front when I drag race, since it's all about weight.
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The main questions are how is the Nylon liner in 1st better than the PTFE liner (2nd)?
Breakaway: seems 2nd is better. - 1st: maximum breakaway torque of 225 oz-in. VS the 2nd: The breakaway torque is not a concern on this line of rod ends so we don’t specify what it should be.
#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2006
Posts: 22,997
Received 2,887 Likes
on
1,910 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
They both will wear and start to knock. Went through 2 sets of them. Replaced with moog end links with grease zerks and and happy after 80,000 miles so far.
#8
Safety Car
Thread Starter
But I have 3 basic concerns with that (not sure if those matter). 1. Their design is the same as OEM joint (means less stability & and more flexibility, which isn't want I'd want from my upgraded Z51 sway bars). 2. They're not adjustable, so not sure how well they would adjust/sit with ZERO tension on the suspension. 3. How often you need to grease them?
P.S: are you talking about different cars, or all 3 sets on one car? How many miles did you get out of the 1st 2 sets? Just curious how many miles you've on the car?
Last edited by Vette_Fan; 06-10-2018 at 01:39 PM.
#9
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2006
Posts: 22,997
Received 2,887 Likes
on
1,910 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I grease them once a year.
The others lasted about 30,000 miles (Went thru 2 sets of OEM old style also).
I have almost 202,000 miles on my one owner 07.
Not sure about which is best for you, but I have Z51 sway bars and Z06 shocks . Had Z06 sway bars for a few years but they were too much and gave no advance warning before letting go.
The others lasted about 30,000 miles (Went thru 2 sets of OEM old style also).
I have almost 202,000 miles on my one owner 07.
Not sure about which is best for you, but I have Z51 sway bars and Z06 shocks . Had Z06 sway bars for a few years but they were too much and gave no advance warning before letting go.
#10
Adjustable end links are use to help corner balance the car by allowing you to load the sway bars as needed.
Are you going to 4 corner balance the car to begin with?
As for end links, all have about a 40K life before they needed to be replace, so if your not going to use the end links to corner balance the car to start with (corner load as needed), then your wasting money with adjustable end links to be begin with.
So Moog or OEM, then OEM's are lighter, and again, all last about 40K of DD driving before they make noise and need to be replaced instead. Hence it not the bar metal of the end links that wears, but the pivot point system that loosen up over time, start to make clicking noise, and why they are replaced.
Hell, on some of the race adjustable links, when used on the street instead of a smoother track, you don't even get 40K out of them instead.
So bluntly, would just replace the end links with OEM for around $100, and call it good. If you go to corner balance down the road that you can't solve with the height adjusters since the sway back is racked too bad instead, then is time to either try to un-rack the sway bar, or replace it isntead.
Are you going to 4 corner balance the car to begin with?
As for end links, all have about a 40K life before they needed to be replace, so if your not going to use the end links to corner balance the car to start with (corner load as needed), then your wasting money with adjustable end links to be begin with.
So Moog or OEM, then OEM's are lighter, and again, all last about 40K of DD driving before they make noise and need to be replaced instead. Hence it not the bar metal of the end links that wears, but the pivot point system that loosen up over time, start to make clicking noise, and why they are replaced.
Hell, on some of the race adjustable links, when used on the street instead of a smoother track, you don't even get 40K out of them instead.
So bluntly, would just replace the end links with OEM for around $100, and call it good. If you go to corner balance down the road that you can't solve with the height adjusters since the sway back is racked too bad instead, then is time to either try to un-rack the sway bar, or replace it isntead.
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I grease them once a year.
The others lasted about 30,000 miles (Went thru 2 sets of OEM old style also). I have almost 202,000 miles on my one owner 07.
Not sure about which is best for you, but I have Z51 sway bars and Z06 shocks. Had Z06 sway bars for a few years but they were too much and gave no advance warning before letting go.
The others lasted about 30,000 miles (Went thru 2 sets of OEM old style also). I have almost 202,000 miles on my one owner 07.
Not sure about which is best for you, but I have Z51 sway bars and Z06 shocks. Had Z06 sway bars for a few years but they were too much and gave no advance warning before letting go.
Adjustable end links are use to help corner balance the car by allowing you to load the sway bars as needed.
Are you going to 4 corner balance the car to begin with?
As for end links, all have about a 40K life before they needed to be replace, so if your not going to use the end links to corner balance the car to start with (corner load as needed), then your wasting money with adjustable end links to be begin with.
So Moog or OEM, then OEM's are lighter, and again, all last about 40K of DD driving before they make noise and need to be replaced instead. Hence it not the bar metal of the end links that wears, but the pivot point system that loosen up over time, start to make clicking noise, and why they are replaced.
Hell, on some of the race adjustable links, when used on the street instead of a smoother track, you don't even get 40K out of them instead.
So bluntly, would just replace the end links with OEM for around $100, and call it good. If you go to corner balance down the road that you can't solve with the height adjusters since the sway back is racked too bad instead, then is time to either try to un-rack the sway bar, or replace it isntead.
Are you going to 4 corner balance the car to begin with?
As for end links, all have about a 40K life before they needed to be replace, so if your not going to use the end links to corner balance the car to start with (corner load as needed), then your wasting money with adjustable end links to be begin with.
So Moog or OEM, then OEM's are lighter, and again, all last about 40K of DD driving before they make noise and need to be replaced instead. Hence it not the bar metal of the end links that wears, but the pivot point system that loosen up over time, start to make clicking noise, and why they are replaced.
Hell, on some of the race adjustable links, when used on the street instead of a smoother track, you don't even get 40K out of them instead.
So bluntly, would just replace the end links with OEM for around $100, and call it good. If you go to corner balance down the road that you can't solve with the height adjusters since the sway back is racked too bad instead, then is time to either try to un-rack the sway bar, or replace it isntead.
Last edited by Vette_Fan; 06-12-2018 at 02:39 AM.