When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First, please don't confuse different people's installs. "GingerGranny's" photos shows the bars are 50% because I'm pretty sure the installer didn't use the harness.
Second, the harness allows full daytime operation, posted before using OUR own videos. Sound is off, but the car is running in the first one AND driving in the second, the DRL are full bright. Particularly the second and latest video, you see how the DRL are full bright but when the signal is activated the DRL "L" goes half bright. Not the BEST video we can do, but we'll do a better one this weekend.
I've not left anything off, the AMBER light turns on with the car going into drive (6sp or AUTO) and has to be manually turned off. By keeping the amber on, the DRL "L" is 50%, but turning it off, immediately reverts back to 100% bright for "L" when using the harness.
Once you turn off the DRL OE feature (amber) the LED function only as turn/hazard/park. We've stated this several times.
Stating this entirely based on the 6+ hours we spent trying every configuration we could do.
Not referring to GingerGranny whatsoever. Referring to Doomi (whom I quoted) who stated he has the 50% brightness issue while using the harness.
If the harness needs to be tapped into the interior fuse box rather than the engine bay fuse box for maximum brightness, the harness should be extended to do so. They clearly made the harness for the engine bay fuse box so it seems very strange that you can't achieve maximum brightness this way. It seems odd to me that you would receive half brightness when tapped into the engine bay fuse box, but max brightness on the interior fuse box. I'm not very savvy with electrical/wiring work so I really wish the harness would arrive long enough to reach the interior fuse box IF that is somehow needed for 100% brightness.
When you say "turn off the DRL", you're referring to flicking the stalk towards you and then releasing, right? I don't plan to use parking lights ever. I do not want to have all my exterior lights on just so I can disable the amber DRLs. If I have to deal with flicking the stalk to turn off the amber DRLs, so be it. It's definitely a bummer, but something I will live with.
When I was referring to getting misinformation it was regarding the "L" acting as the DRL. The "L" shaped light is not the DRL. It's just now wired to be on 100% of the time with the harness. The DRL IS still the amber turn signals and those will still be on because they are the DRLs. The "L" shaped light was never truly the DRL even though we were told countless times that it was (not your fault, but the folks you were dealing with). This is what I am referring to.
We'll ask Todd to come back in so we can do a little more testing and possible video - we thought we'd nailed it with all our testing but perhaps we didn't, there are still some thing we have to try. Perhaps it differs from different years.
Originally Posted by Frankie15
Not referring to GingerGranny whatsoever. Referring to Doomi (whom I quoted) who stated he has the 50% brightness issue while using the harness.
If the harness needs to be tapped into the interior fuse box rather than the engine bay fuse box for maximum brightness, the harness should be extended to do so. They clearly made the harness for the engine bay fuse box so it seems very strange that you can't achieve maximum brightness this way.
True, it may be different for the engine fuse vs interior fuse. However, you are right that it is too short, we are actively working with them to explain this and hope that the next units in the Ocean shipment will have the extension. I know you offered to pay more for us to extend (privately) but let's see what we can do on the MFG end.
It seems odd to me that you would receive half brightness when tapped into the engine bay fuse box, but max brightness on the interior fuse box. I'm not very savvy with electrical/wiring work so I really wish the harness would arrive long enough to reach the interior fuse box IF that is somehow needed for 100% brightness. There is one thing we can try with Todd's install, I'll see if he's available this Monday
When you say "turn off the DRL", you're referring to flicking the stalk towards you and then releasing, right? Correct
I don't plan to use parking lights ever. I do not want to have all my exterior lights on just so I can disable the amber DRLs. If I have to deal with flicking the stalk to turn off the amber DRLs, so be it. It's definitely a bummer, but something I will live with. understood
When I was referring to getting misinformation it was regarding the "L" acting as the DRL. The "L" shaped light is not the DRL. It's just now wired to be on 100% of the time with the harness. Yes, Correct, I see the distinction you are making. In the way we've said it, the DRL - daytime running light - is a constantly on light, which is what the "L" is with the harness. I know what you are trying to say now. It's a bit nuanced.
The DRL IS still the amber turn signals and those will still be on because they are the DRLs. Unless we figure out through programming how to perm shut it off
The "L" shaped light was never truly the DRL even though we were told countless times that it was (not your fault, but the folks you were dealing with). This is what I am referring to.
We'll ask Todd to come back in so we can do a little more testing and possible video - we thought we'd nailed it with all our testing but perhaps we didn't, there are still some thing we have to try. Perhaps it differs from different years.
Understood.
Thanks Anthony! Disregard my latest PM regarding the harness extension. Didn't read this first. Hopefully they're willing to do something to fix it.
Looking forward to hearing more about the 50%/100% issue too.
I got to spend a bit more time getting acquainted with the lights.
On the "L" shaped lights
They are 100% bright ONLY if you flick the switch on the stalk
If the headlights or DRL/turn signals are on at all the "L" will be dimmed.
This leads me to believe that the dimming is due to the internal circuitry of the light so using the under hood fuse box is not the culprit. I've used fuses #6 and #14 for the DRL harness with no issues.
On the DRL's
The turn signals are the DRL's, there is no easy way to get around this like you can on the C5 (pull a fuse or alter a relay)
The only way to turn them off is by rotating the switch or possibly via Tech 2 (unconfirmed, but it should be doable on some)
I used my Tech 2 to change my BCM country code to Mexico. Depending on your BCM this may give you the option to turn off the DRL (T62 option). Unfortunately I was not given the option in the Tech 2 to turn off T62. Many thanks to Dano for the information on Tech 2 and BCM programming.
Overall I really love these headlights. Having to rotate the stalk isn't the end of the world as I already had to do that to make my switchback DRL's function how I wanted. I do wish the "L" could be full bright while the headlights are on, but again it's not the end of the world and if I keep messing around I may figure it out.
I just got the notice from USPS that they tried to delivery my headlights, so they are coming. Thanks to all who are posting the great information on how to install, hook up, and use the lights.
Please allow me to illustrate a bit of what's going on:
There is no manual way to disable the amber because the signal is coming from the car’s light module and going to that pin – and that pin is part of the turn signal control as well. The simplest thing to do is go to a dealer, indy, or get the programming to simply code that feature out. You can do this on all modern cars, no reason you can’t do this on Corvettes. - SEE SECOND PIC BELOW.
This makes sense. Since basically the behavior of the OEM DRL/turning signal is controlled by the OEM ECU, then the only way to redirect the DRL is to disable the OEM portion and power the lights separately. I'm running into a similar issue with my 2018 Grand Cherokee, where I want to change the DRL from low powered LOW BEAMs to the parking lights, but the DRL portion is controlled by the body control module. Fortunately, with the Jeep, I can easily turn off the DRL through customer accessible settings.
I got to spend a bit more time getting acquainted with the lights.
On the "L" shaped lights
They are 100% bright ONLY if you flick the switch on the stalk
If the headlights or DRL/turn signals are on at all the "L" will be dimmed.
This leads me to believe that the dimming is due to the internal circuitry of the light so using the under hood fuse box is not the culprit. I've used fuses #9 and #16 for the DRL harness with no issues.
On the DRL's
The turn signals are the DRL's, there is no easy way to get around this like you can on the C5 (pull a fuse or alter a relay)
The only way to turn them off is by rotating the switch or possibly via Tech 2 (unconfirmed, but it should be doable on some)
I used my Tech 2 to change my BCM country code to Mexico. Depending on your BCM this may give you the option to turn off the DRL (T62 option). Unfortunately I was not given the option in the Tech 2 to turn off T62. Many thanks to Dano for the information on Tech 2 and BCM programming.
Overall I really love these headlights. Having to rotate the stalk isn't the end of the world as I already had to do that to make my switchback DRL's function how I wanted. I do wish the "L" could be full bright while the headlights are on, but again it's not the end of the world and if I keep messing around I may figure it out.
My favorite part of providing updates to you guys is that you guys run with them and provide an amazing amount of detail that isn't found anywhere else!
Thanks a bunch for being so good at working through this and helping each other, us, and of course the overall community on this.
It is in part thanks to this that we've had even more success on this product than anticipated, so we have actually been able to RAISE our current allotment of orders for this shipment by just enough that it will cover at least 6 more people.
If you haven't jumped on, those 6 people WILL receive the SAME deal that the original people received, 1 freebie and expedited shipping.
---
On another note, the engineers for this product are out til Monday/Tuesday, we have been told they are working on something that would help with this, it may not make it on the next shipment, but it will probably be available for secondary purchase at some point. Details to follow
Playing with this a bit more during some down time. I did find that if you remove under hood relay #37 the hockey stick is at full brightness with the headlights on. Unfortunately it didn't help anything for the amber lights only activating on the turn signal and not the DRL, but it's a step in the direction of figuring this out. Still searching for the system that impacts the DRL operation.
I didn't have enough time to see what else that relay impacts, but I'd be very cautious just removing it and going about your day. It could very well affect other systems unintentionally.
Playing with this a bit more during some down time. I did find that if you remove under hood relay #37 the hockey stick is at full brightness with the headlights on. Unfortunately it didn't help anything for the amber lights only activating on the turn signal and not the DRL, but it's a step in the direction of figuring this out. Still searching for the system that impacts the DRL operation.
I didn't have enough time to see what else that relay impacts, but I'd be very cautious just removing it and going about your day. It could very well affect other systems unintentionally.
So is the only issue here that in order to turn the ambers off and have hockey stick DRL that you have to flick the switch? And you guys want to be able to turn the car on and have hockey stick DRLs without flicking the switch? Is that the problem?
So is the only issue here that in order to turn the ambers off and have hockey stick DRL that you have to flick the switch? And you guys want to be able to turn the car on and have hockey stick DRLs without flicking the switch? Is that the problem?
With the harness, the hockey stick lights are on all of the time. The amber turn signals are actually the DRLs. The hockey stick lights only appear to be DRLs because they are on 100% of the time because they are wired to do that with the included harness. The hockey stick light and the amber LEDs will both be on when starting the car and driving away.
I think others (and myself) are looking for a solution so the amber DRLs no longer act as DRLs and actually turn off when the car is started (not having to flick the stalk). It would also be great if the hockey stick shaped lights shut off when turn signals or hazards were applied like that "other" harness.
07-19-2018, 03:52 PM
