Paddle shifter for track days
#1
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Paddle shifter for track days
I'm looking at C6 Corvettes and need to know how well the A6 paddle shift transmission can handle track day up and down shifts. I've always driven 6 speed Vettes but I like the paddle shift concept. How well does it work on the track. I'm concerned about reliability, overheating transmission, clutch wear and other issues. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Larry
Went from Corvettes to BMW, now want to go back to Corvettes.
Thanks
Larry
Went from Corvettes to BMW, now want to go back to Corvettes.
#4
Race Director
Works great. If you run Into heat issues, you could add an extra trans cooler.
#5
Problem I have is the trans in the a6 is not a sequential transmission, and can not get it to down shift from 5'th to 2'nd fast enough from off the end of straight into corner by the time I hit the apex during hard braking, and back on the throttle isntead. So it may find it way to 3 buy the time I come off the brakes at the apex and back on the gas, but it's still a gear too high for what I need coming out of the corner from the apex isntead. Through the technical section with just a down shift of a gear or two, it's fine in these areas since the trans will at least shift fast enough here.
Truth is, in a novices hands, the A6 tends to make them faster, since it easy to shift with the paddles than a M6, and where you tend to see novices get lazy and try to run a gear out too long in the technical sections on a manual, instead of shifting into the next gear up for the next brief second isntead.
Note, I am a 911 fan since I have one, and the PDK trans is light years better that what is found on the vet, but still prefer a manual trans or true sequential transmission over even it for road course work.
As for using an A6 for road coarse, trans tune will help to get it shift firmer/faster in the up gears, and rework the shift pedal wiring so finger tip pull on the right pedal will up shift, and pull on the left pedal will down shift. Hence never stick your thumb into the wheel to try to push the lever that way, since if you catch the curb incline on the apex and the steering wheel jolts, it will break your thumb with your thumb in the wheel against the spokes.
Here is how to mod the wiring harness to pulls for the above,
http://www.bratten.org/C6/Paddle/index.html
As for the paddles, change them out for paddles like the S2T's that are longer/wider so you can find them with your finger tips better.
As for downshifts, again, the trans is not a sequential transmission where you can bang down gears and have the motor slightly over rev, so its a mater of the trans only shifting down when it feels safe to do so, and at it slower rate as well. Hence this is the reason that even on the C7, for road course work, you still get the car with a manual trans.
As for trans temps, will need to increase the cooler size on the trans so you don't run into trans over heat problems. Hence the trans coolers on most A6's are the side compartment of the radiator, which allows the fluid to warm up faster and still have some cooling. But for track use, you don't want to use the side of the radiator, but instead get a cooler out in the free area of the nose for better cooling isntead. Also, depending what Vet model you get, need to add in a cooler for the power steering if one did not come with the car. Same goes for the diff, since it will be getting a lot hotter with road course use as well.
Truth is, in a novices hands, the A6 tends to make them faster, since it easy to shift with the paddles than a M6, and where you tend to see novices get lazy and try to run a gear out too long in the technical sections on a manual, instead of shifting into the next gear up for the next brief second isntead.
Note, I am a 911 fan since I have one, and the PDK trans is light years better that what is found on the vet, but still prefer a manual trans or true sequential transmission over even it for road course work.
As for using an A6 for road coarse, trans tune will help to get it shift firmer/faster in the up gears, and rework the shift pedal wiring so finger tip pull on the right pedal will up shift, and pull on the left pedal will down shift. Hence never stick your thumb into the wheel to try to push the lever that way, since if you catch the curb incline on the apex and the steering wheel jolts, it will break your thumb with your thumb in the wheel against the spokes.
Here is how to mod the wiring harness to pulls for the above,
http://www.bratten.org/C6/Paddle/index.html
As for the paddles, change them out for paddles like the S2T's that are longer/wider so you can find them with your finger tips better.
As for downshifts, again, the trans is not a sequential transmission where you can bang down gears and have the motor slightly over rev, so its a mater of the trans only shifting down when it feels safe to do so, and at it slower rate as well. Hence this is the reason that even on the C7, for road course work, you still get the car with a manual trans.
As for trans temps, will need to increase the cooler size on the trans so you don't run into trans over heat problems. Hence the trans coolers on most A6's are the side compartment of the radiator, which allows the fluid to warm up faster and still have some cooling. But for track use, you don't want to use the side of the radiator, but instead get a cooler out in the free area of the nose for better cooling isntead. Also, depending what Vet model you get, need to add in a cooler for the power steering if one did not come with the car. Same goes for the diff, since it will be getting a lot hotter with road course use as well.
Last edited by Dano523; 07-14-2018 at 07:03 AM.
#6
Safety Car
That's why I bought a GS with the M6. You don't have to add extra things to the car before you can take it to the track. I had originally assumed that every Corvette was setup for the street or track when I looked to buy one.