NewTires/Alignment
07-21-2018, 12:23 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
NewTires/Alignment
Friends,
Pardon my ignorance; but as a new C6 owner, I am a little confused and did not want to highjack someone elses thread.
Im half way through my Good Year tires. When the time comes to replace them, I will be looking at the Michellins as per the maany threads favoring them in this forum.
I have also seen several replies mentioning allignments in some tire threads.
Do I have to do an allignment when going to a different brand/type of tire or am I misinterpreting the reply??
My car drives perfectly straight and the tires are wearing out evenly at this time.
Many thanks.
Pardon my ignorance; but as a new C6 owner, I am a little confused and did not want to highjack someone elses thread.
Im half way through my Good Year tires. When the time comes to replace them, I will be looking at the Michellins as per the maany threads favoring them in this forum.
I have also seen several replies mentioning allignments in some tire threads.
Do I have to do an allignment when going to a different brand/type of tire or am I misinterpreting the reply??
My car drives perfectly straight and the tires are wearing out evenly at this time.
Many thanks.
07-21-2018, 01:04 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
I would and did. A setting closer to 0 camber on our Z51. Tire wear was not bad before, factory setup was more aggressive. The 0 camber is more of a street setting, you will notice the difference in how the car feels. Not autoXing or tracking , so I am ok with it. If you are going to do either my vote would be on the aggressive side
07-21-2018, 02:50 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I would and did. A setting closer to 0 camber on our Z51. Tire wear was not bad before, factory setup was more aggressive. The 0 camber is more of a street setting, you will notice the difference in how the car feels. Not autoXing or tracking , so I am ok with it. If you are going to do either my vote would be on the aggressive side
Whats the reason why you have to align it when putting new tires??
07-21-2018, 03:41 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
$1200.00 worth of new tires , a 90.00 alignment was well worth it. Nine year old car with about 47,000 miles. Pennsylvania roads are not the best. Factory alignment is not the tightest tolerance. Bill
07-21-2018, 05:10 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
As said above the factory alignment is within Chevy specs for the cars but far from ideal for the best bang for the buck spent on tires. I believe they go with a more toe in setting which is as said for a better track car but it eats rubber off the inside tread. My alignment guy loves doing my C-6 as he says it is very adjustable and he can fine tune it to perfection.
I had my first alignment done due to bad handling of my 2009 back when it was new. Car was very squirrelly when passing under acceleration. I told the alignment tech my issue and the reason for having an alignment. He reported he was not surprised with my observations with what he found from the factory. Said it was within factory spec but no where near a good alignment. He corrected the alignment and the car has driven like it is on rails since then. I get it re-aligned every year or two when I have other service work done. Alignment was free the 1st time and charged off as a warranty claim due to a poor alignment from the factory.
I had my first alignment done due to bad handling of my 2009 back when it was new. Car was very squirrelly when passing under acceleration. I told the alignment tech my issue and the reason for having an alignment. He reported he was not surprised with my observations with what he found from the factory. Said it was within factory spec but no where near a good alignment. He corrected the alignment and the car has driven like it is on rails since then. I get it re-aligned every year or two when I have other service work done. Alignment was free the 1st time and charged off as a warranty claim due to a poor alignment from the factory.
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JoeMatilda (07-21-2018)
07-21-2018, 05:31 PM
#6
Safety Car
Friends,
Pardon my ignorance; but as a new C6 owner, I am a little confused and did not want to highjack someone elses thread.
Im half way through my Good Year tires. When the time comes to replace them, I will be looking at the Michellins as per the maany threads favoring them in this forum.
I have also seen several replies mentioning allignments in some tire threads.
Do I have to do an allignment when going to a different brand/type of tire or am I misinterpreting the reply??
My car drives perfectly straight and the tires are wearing out evenly at this time.
Many thanks.
Pardon my ignorance; but as a new C6 owner, I am a little confused and did not want to highjack someone elses thread.
Im half way through my Good Year tires. When the time comes to replace them, I will be looking at the Michellins as per the maany threads favoring them in this forum.
I have also seen several replies mentioning allignments in some tire threads.
Do I have to do an allignment when going to a different brand/type of tire or am I misinterpreting the reply??
My car drives perfectly straight and the tires are wearing out evenly at this time.
Many thanks.
Has the alignment been checked/set on yours? If yes, then slap some new rubber on and drive it. If it's never been checked, then a more precise alignment might be a good idea. Do that either before or when you replace the tires.
Once you're sure the alignment is good, It's also a good idea to mark the eccentric bolts where the adjustments are made with a paint pen. They shouldn't move, and usually don't move in "normal" driving. If you autocross or track the thing, they can (and do) sometimes slip and change alignment, resulting in a change in handling characteristics and very bad tire wear, all the sudden. Having everything marked lets you see if anything slipped/turned.
07-21-2018, 05:37 PM
#7
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The simple answer is NO ... Just changing tires (to include brand of tires) has no effect on the suspension alignment.
But, if your current alignment is off, you won't get the proper tire wear or handling that you should be getting. A bad alignment can eat up a set of tires fast.
If you have not had an alignment performed on the car yourself, you have no clue if it's within spec. It would be best to have it done at the time you replace the tires ... this will insure long life on those new tires you just spent a bunch of money on.
Make sense ?
07-21-2018, 05:45 PM
#8
Race Director
This is a very popular alignment guide for the C6.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-alignment.pdf
Use the "street specs"
Note that the toe is minimal, keep it under .05 total toe for the front.
I run these specs at the highest camber numbers and my total toe for the front is .03.
BTW find a tech that will take the time to dial the given specs from Pfadt, close isn't good enough.
I see very even tire wear.
Also keep your tire pressure at 30 psi cold, this will take some effort as the seasons temperature changes.
If you run higher psi you will see more wear in the center of the tire, lower will wear the edges more and more toe will scrub the edges noticeable.
At least this has been my experience and I experimented with tire pressure.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-alignment.pdf
Use the "street specs"
Note that the toe is minimal, keep it under .05 total toe for the front.
I run these specs at the highest camber numbers and my total toe for the front is .03.
BTW find a tech that will take the time to dial the given specs from Pfadt, close isn't good enough.
I see very even tire wear.
Also keep your tire pressure at 30 psi cold, this will take some effort as the seasons temperature changes.
If you run higher psi you will see more wear in the center of the tire, lower will wear the edges more and more toe will scrub the edges noticeable.
At least this has been my experience and I experimented with tire pressure.
Last edited by Boomer111; 07-21-2018 at 05:46 PM.
07-21-2018, 06:03 PM
#9
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Location: SW Florida
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And I can tell you that the factory alignment settings are not always very good.
I purchased my 2011 GS new. I am the only one that drives it, and I have not hit any potholes or curbs with the wheels.
My original tires were shot in about 14,000 miles. I had an alignment done when I replaced those original tires ... The alignment settings were way out of spec (no wonder the tires didn't last).
Here is what I had the alignment shop set it to after installing the new tires:
Front Camber: . . . . . . . - .5 degrees
Rear Camber: . . . . .. . . - .3 degrees
Front and Rear Toe: . .- . . As close to zero as they could get it
Caster: . . . . . . . . . .. . . . Non Adjustable (don't worry about it)
I purchased my 2011 GS new. I am the only one that drives it, and I have not hit any potholes or curbs with the wheels.
My original tires were shot in about 14,000 miles. I had an alignment done when I replaced those original tires ... The alignment settings were way out of spec (no wonder the tires didn't last).
Here is what I had the alignment shop set it to after installing the new tires:
Front Camber: . . . . . . . - .5 degrees
Rear Camber: . . . . .. . . - .3 degrees
Front and Rear Toe: . .- . . As close to zero as they could get it
Caster: . . . . . . . . . .. . . . Non Adjustable (don't worry about it)
07-21-2018, 06:26 PM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
If the highlighted part of your post is true, you don't need an alignment. Changing brand of tires or tire models (from run flat to conventional for example) won't change the wear pattern or the handling.
Has the alignment been checked/set on yours? If yes, then slap some new rubber on and drive it. If it's never been checked, then a more precise alignment might be a good idea. Do that either before or when you replace the tires.
Once you're sure the alignment is good, It's also a good idea to mark the eccentric bolts where the adjustments are made with a paint pen. They shouldn't move, and usually don't move in "normal" driving. If you autocross or track the thing, they can (and do) sometimes slip and change alignment, resulting in a change in handling characteristics and very bad tire wear, all the sudden. Having everything marked lets you see if anything slipped/turned.
Has the alignment been checked/set on yours? If yes, then slap some new rubber on and drive it. If it's never been checked, then a more precise alignment might be a good idea. Do that either before or when you replace the tires.
Once you're sure the alignment is good, It's also a good idea to mark the eccentric bolts where the adjustments are made with a paint pen. They shouldn't move, and usually don't move in "normal" driving. If you autocross or track the thing, they can (and do) sometimes slip and change alignment, resulting in a change in handling characteristics and very bad tire wear, all the sudden. Having everything marked lets you see if anything slipped/turned.
07-21-2018, 06:30 PM
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
This is a very popular alignment guide for the C6.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-alignment.pdf
Use the "street specs"
Note that the toe is minimal, keep it under .05 total toe for the front.
I run these specs at the highest camber numbers and my total toe for the front is .03.
BTW find a tech that will take the time to dial the given specs from Pfadt, close isn't good enough.
I see very even tire wear.
Also keep your tire pressure at 30 psi cold, this will take some effort as the seasons temperature changes.
If you run higher psi you will see more wear in the center of the tire, lower will wear the edges more and more toe will scrub the edges noticeable.
At least this has been my experience and I experimented with tire pressure.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-alignment.pdf
Use the "street specs"
Note that the toe is minimal, keep it under .05 total toe for the front.
I run these specs at the highest camber numbers and my total toe for the front is .03.
BTW find a tech that will take the time to dial the given specs from Pfadt, close isn't good enough.
I see very even tire wear.
Also keep your tire pressure at 30 psi cold, this will take some effort as the seasons temperature changes.
If you run higher psi you will see more wear in the center of the tire, lower will wear the edges more and more toe will scrub the edges noticeable.
At least this has been my experience and I experimented with tire pressure.
Thanks for the pdf. I keep the tires at 30 psi. Every little bit helps!! Lol
07-21-2018, 06:38 PM
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
And I can tell you that the factory alignment settings are not always very good.
I purchased my 2011 GS new. I am the only one that drives it, and I have not hit any potholes or curbs with the wheels.
My original tires were shot in about 14,000 miles. I had an alignment done when I replaced those original tires ... The alignment settings were way out of spec (no wonder the tires didn't last).
Here is what I had the alignment shop set it to after installing the new tires:
Front Camber: . . . . . . . - .5 degrees
Rear Camber: . . . . .. . . - .3 degrees
Front and Rear Toe: . .- . . As close to zero as they could get it
Caster: . . . . . . . . . .. . . . Non Adjustable (don't worry about it)
I purchased my 2011 GS new. I am the only one that drives it, and I have not hit any potholes or curbs with the wheels.
My original tires were shot in about 14,000 miles. I had an alignment done when I replaced those original tires ... The alignment settings were way out of spec (no wonder the tires didn't last).
Here is what I had the alignment shop set it to after installing the new tires:
Front Camber: . . . . . . . - .5 degrees
Rear Camber: . . . . .. . . - .3 degrees
Front and Rear Toe: . .- . . As close to zero as they could get it
Caster: . . . . . . . . . .. . . . Non Adjustable (don't worry about it)
07-21-2018, 06:57 PM
#13
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Member Since: Apr 2016
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thanks cor the reply and the numbers. Like I mentioned earlier in another reply, I know the car was aligned a couple of years ago. But, Given the concensus here, it wont hurt to get it aligned again later on when I change my tires to the Michellins. At least I will know exactly what got done and when.
07-21-2018, 07:07 PM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Im planning on driving this one.... as much as I can. Right now though the kids are home and my driveway looks like a flee market's parking lot, full of cars. So, getting the Vette out of the garage takes some repositioning of cars, plus the subsequent logistics of who parks where based on who leaves when to go where!! Lol
In a couple weeks, straight in and straight out of the garage ! Lol
07-21-2018, 07:11 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by JoeMatilda
Do I have to do an allignment when going to a different brand/type of tire or am I misinterpreting the reply??
My car drives perfectly straight and the tires are wearing out evenly at this time.
Many thanks.
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JoeMatilda (07-21-2018)
07-21-2018, 10:23 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
the factory alignment has too much slop. Go for a precision alignment with PFADt specs.
Too many folks have worn inside treads but still in factory specs.
Too many folks have worn inside treads but still in factory specs.
Last edited by LowRyter; 07-22-2018 at 12:36 AM.
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JoeMatilda (07-21-2018)
07-21-2018, 11:08 PM
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
07-21-2018, 11:41 PM
#18
I installed Michelin PS4 tires a few weeks ago and did an alignment last friday. The alignment was within GM specs, but from my previous tire wear, it showed a lot of inner wear on the front tires after 4 years.
"Within GM specs" meant that there was some toe in to go along with some negative camber. If compared to the pdaft specs, my "stock" alignment was off by quite a bit on the caster side even!
I got it corrected and for the life of me it still drives straight like before and goes into corners just as well as before. I don't think the track alignment is all that necessary with the PS4 tires unless I want to push the edge of traction and the car's limits.I feel like I'd gain maybe 1-2s at best at a cost of having to get new tires in a year.
"Within GM specs" meant that there was some toe in to go along with some negative camber. If compared to the pdaft specs, my "stock" alignment was off by quite a bit on the caster side even!
I got it corrected and for the life of me it still drives straight like before and goes into corners just as well as before. I don't think the track alignment is all that necessary with the PS4 tires unless I want to push the edge of traction and the car's limits.I feel like I'd gain maybe 1-2s at best at a cost of having to get new tires in a year.
07-22-2018, 01:32 AM
#19
Le Mans Master
I see so many threads out there where people complain that their tires, brand X, only lasted a few thousand miles. After reading all of the reponses here, I wonder if a big part of the problem is that the factory alignment is not as good as it should be, resulting in worn out tires that otherwise would have lasted at least twice as much. I guess that even though not technically necessary, spending $100 in an alignment at a "Corvette" place when replacing the tires will save you more $$$ by making your tires last longer.
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JoeMatilda (07-22-2018)
07-22-2018, 08:26 AM
#20
No need to find a "corvette" place. Just a shop that has some know how on how to adjust alignment. A shop that can deal with lowered cars and finally uses quality equipment like a Hunter alignment system. I watched as the tech fought with the mono spring design trying to get a decent balance of camber, toe, caster per side. I think this is why the specs are so sloppy to begin with, whenever you make an adjustment on one side, it affects the other side as well. It's a test of patience to keep adjusting until you get pretty damn close to what pdaft asks for in a street alignment.
If you look at the stock GM recommendations for the car, mine would have been "aligned" already despite having the inner tires driving with a good toe in and some negative camber and offset caster values. The 4 year wear pattern on the front would say otherwise. I was able to get a little over 4 years by catching it and rotating the front tires side to side (my Potenza tires were symmetrical) to give me some time until I could get new tires and a correct alignment.
If you look at the stock GM recommendations for the car, mine would have been "aligned" already despite having the inner tires driving with a good toe in and some negative camber and offset caster values. The 4 year wear pattern on the front would say otherwise. I was able to get a little over 4 years by catching it and rotating the front tires side to side (my Potenza tires were symmetrical) to give me some time until I could get new tires and a correct alignment.
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JoeMatilda (07-22-2018)
