Bowtie Jim

If it were mine , I wouldn't even waste my time with that motor. Buy an LS3 crate motor and be done with it. Then like you said you have a $20,000 sweet *** vette with 0 miles on the motor. And you would have LS3 to boot.

M096865

Bowtie Jim,

I tend to agree but it doesn't cost me anything but time to pull it out and tear it down.

I live in CT and so its not like I'll be driving iy in December.

Plus I ko d of like the challenge of seeing if I can fix it.

But the practical side of me will evaluate the costs once apart and decide which way to go.

kinda feels.like just changong the engine out with a crate motor is the easy way out. No offense tp anyone who may have done so.

I'm just totally pumped to have a vet and just can't wait to have my baby home under my roof.
Be good and smoke'em, life is short.
Scott

Cooter Tech

M096865

Cooter,

Certainly I will do my best to document things for folks.

May help somsone else who has the same problem or just needs to work the lower end of their engine.

Started doing research and I think I'm going to try and pull damaged parts out with keeping engine installed.

Biggest issue is droping oil pan to gain access to pull pistons.

Keep eye out for my posts with progress updates.

Scott

Dano523

Pull the motor, since you need to make sure that the crank is not bent as well!!!!

weathermaker

I understand you choosing tear down and seeing if you can fix it. The reality is buying piece by piece the engine parts will cost more than a long block. You don't need a complete engine.
. A long block is the heads to the oil pan. All other items are reused from dead engine. Still a lot of work and satisfaction.

Dano523

With top end already done when they did the heads, he is only dealing with a short block rebuild, and OEM type rebuild kits are pretty cheap (under $400) when you are doing the work yourself. Hence as long as the block and crank are fine, it pretty much the pistons/rings/connection rods, and main bearings that need to be replaced, then gaskets/seals to button everything back up. If I remember correctly, the motor has low mileage, so cam,timing chain, oil pump should still be good.

M096865

Yes, that's right Dano. The car only has 38k miles.
As you stated the top end has all been reworked.

So it really comes down to how extensive lower end damage is ( mainly cylinder walls).

A short block goes for about 4k, I don't think I would spend near that in replacment parts, even if I replaced the crank but haven't priced it out yet.

Question, do you think regardless what I find I should just replace all rings, piston seals, bearings, crank or just replace what I find that is broken.

Don't want to do all this work and have something else fail because engine saw high stress from water ingestion.

But sometimes I know you can create as many issue by changing parts after things have broken in as a set.

Thanks again for all the posts, very helpful information.

Scott
PS: Told my wife and I'm still breathing, so life is good.

M096865

Dano,

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-205-6939m

Found this rebuild kit at Summit Racing, in addition may need a new piston or piston rod if damaged.

Anything else I should consider replacing, oil pump, filter, etc.

Thanks,
Scott

Dano523

Block cylinder linings will be easy to check for cracks via magnafluxing, as well checking to make sure you don't have problems with the main journals/they are still straight with each other.

Crank is a walk in the part to make sure it not cracked via magnafluxing as well , plus quick check between centers with a dial indicator on the main journals will tell you if the crank is bent or not as well.

As for pistons, rings, connecting rods, and bearings, yes since all got hammered when the engine hydro locked, with a lot of bent and stretched channels on these parts. Hence I would not even trust the piston rings. When a lot of force via the water went threw them, there may be spider cracked in an areas on the rings that you may not pick up. Plus with new rings that come with the rebuild kit anyways, you can set the gaps to .006", while the old rings may have wear and gap much larger instead. As for cylinders, if they and the main journals check out fine, would just give them a quick mic to confirm that the piston you are getting are the correct OD after flex horning on the cylinders to give the new rings a surface to mate into.

So again, get the block stripped, then check it and the crank to make sure they are fine, and then its a snap from the point forward.
If the block or crank is trash (if the crank is trashed, you can bank it took the block journals with it) and now time to just look at an OEM crate motor instead.

M096865

Thanks Dano

One question, what is this magnaflux product your talking about.

I'm familiar with fluid penetrant inspection which uses dye, developer, and a black light to see any cracks.

Can you send me a link.

Thanks,
Scott

Dano523

Magnaflux dye pentrant will work fine if used to doing it that way.

corvette312

Keep us posted on the project and if you can post some photos of the project.

M096865

I will definitely be doing that.

Still working on getting her home.

Bank loan is being a real pain because the dealer doean't have the car registered.

I don't get it, a dealer who flips cars gets them from all over, even at auctions and tows them home to fix. No reason to register it, let whomever buys the car sit around DMV.

Hopefully have her in the garage by the weekend.

Been doing some more research and pulling the motor definitely seems like the smart thing to do.

I'm just a little unclear about talk of clearing the steering box and rack. Maybe it will make more sense once I get under the car and take a good look.

I was even debating about getting one of those go-pro cameras and filming my escopades. I'm certain there will be plenty of laughs and a whole lot of cursing involved.

Have a good night all.
Scott

Dano523

No on this kit,
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-205-6939m

Since you looking for a kit that has the piston, rings, connection rod, from the start.

Also, don't order the rebuild kit until you pull the block apart, so you can confirm the Piston OD sizes and the needed bearing sizes as well. Hence if the crank needs to be polished, you may plus size bearings for it, and you will not need a master rebuilt kit for the motor. Also a great deal of the parts like cam, its chain and gears, oil pump and such should be fine, and it really boiling down replacing pistons and connection rods that took a hammering when the engine hydro locked isntead.

So what you are going to need is a seal kit with head gaskets, any oem bolts that are one time use that will need to be replaced, then damage parts like piston down to connection rod with bearings,the main bearings for the crank once you figure out if you need STD size, or over size if the crank has to be polished instead.

M096865

Thanks Dano
That's exactly what I needed to know.

Other then the header bolts, are there any others you would replace regardless of condition.

I definitely will not order anything until I get the engine apart.

Do you know where I might find dimensions/tolerances on the stock camshaft.
Planning to do a layout at my friends machine shop, provided it doesn't look damaged/ bent.

Thanks again for everything, you have been an awesome resource of information.

Have a great night.
Scott

wstafford

You can come out of this pretty good in my opinion. Everybody loves the ls3, if you have to replace any pistons, you could always bore it to an ls3, it's really not much of an overbore. Then you'll have all the ls3 lovers quietened down. pistons aren't all that expensive. Really good chance you've got a bent rod or two, maybe more. If that crankshaft is bent, i'll be the surprisedest sob in the country. If your block is damaged i'll just about eat my hat. They had the heads off and didn't notice anything about the cylinders being cracked or the pistons being cracks on the tops, the skirts could be though. As far as checking all the dimensions on the crank, load all that stuff up and take it to an automotive machine shop and let them check it. maybe resize the rods and if necessary regrind the crank .010. if the shop recommends it. It's not that big of a deal. It should be a lot of fun. I'm glad it's not my engine, but if it was I sure as hell wouldn't run out and spend a bunch of money on another engine just so it could be perfectly pristine again. That's horse ****. You can definitely rebuild what you have. and be even prouder of it.you probably have a friend that has experience that could throw in with you and help out. sorry for the long post. Good luck, Stafford

schizcat

Do your research on LS2 rebuild kits. Not much out there unless you plan on doing a frankenstein build (mixing new and old parts). Most, if not all, LS2 rebuild kits contain more aftermarket parts (higher end pistons, rods, etc.). Although it may be fun to tear into and I would tend to agree, after looking into this option myself I have found that buying a short\long block is just as or more cost efficient than trying to piece together a build. You want to get it on the road, get it on the road. Life is too short to have it on jackstands for too long

M096865

Thanks Guys,

I definitely don't want to put more into it then it truly needs but with all the time this is going to take, I also don't want to leave behind anything that may be suspect.

I like the idea of taking the short block and maybe even the valve assemblies to a engine rebuild shop to have them fully inspect all the components and give them the thumbs up before putting them all back together.

Kind of bumming thought I was going to get her home Saturday but dealer won't release it until my check fully clears.
So should get her next Saturday for sure.

Planning on towing it home myself with a rented car trailer from uhaul.

Anybody got any advice on where to hook up to pull it up on the car trailer. I really don't even want to start it up to pull it on.

My plan was to use a couple of nylon straps around the A frames to a single point out front and use a comealong to winch it up. Then secure with wheel webs and chains.

Thanks to ALL and have a great Labor Day holiday.
Scott

PS: Sorry for the lame user name. Got too many of the stinking things to remember and so went with one from work.

cv67

Im surprised the mechanic never tried to turn the motor by hand when they had the heads off.
Good luck, and nothing wrong with the LS2 either.