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If you have tweaked the fan table settings, and the reason that you melted the connector, then replacing the connector with another OEM type, is going to end up with the same melted problem.
So one of the Tweaks that goes will do it is to direct connect the wires via soldering them together, with section of heat shrink on the soldered wires instead.
This is no the best band-aid for the problem, but all your really doing is moving the heat melting problem to the PWM connector to melt it isntead.
So before you do anything, figure out why the connector melted in the first place. If stock fan tables has not been touched, then the problem may be that the raditor fan bearings have gone dry, and they either need to be pulled to re-grease or replace them, or just replace the entire fan assembly isntead.
If the fan table has been tweaked to try to lower the engine temps, the fan bearings are still good, then it time to upgrade your radiator, so the fan does not have to run that hard instead.
If you have tweaked the fan table settings, and the reason that you melted the connector, then replacing the connector with another OEM type, is going to end up with the same melted problem.
So one of the Tweaks that goes will do it is to direct connect the wires via soldering them together, with section of heat shrink on the soldered wires instead.
This is no the best band-aid for the problem, but all your really doing is moving the heat melting problem to the PWM connector to melt it isntead.
So before you do anything, figure out why the connector melted in the first place. If stock fan tables has not been touched, then the problem may be that the raditor fan bearings have gone dry, and they either need to be pulled to re-grease or replace them, or just replace the entire fan assembly isntead.
If the fan table has been tweaked to try to lower the engine temps, the fan bearings are still good, then it time to upgrade your radiator, so the fan does not have to run that hard instead.
I absolutely agree. Fan motors eventually fail, and as they do they draw more and more current. Even if you use butt splices and heat shrink tubing to replace the damaged connector, you could soon be looking at melted wiring insulation and a damaged fan control module. I've been there. Check the bottom six inches of your radiator for bits of sand and twigs all cemented together by dried mud. You might be able to wash and blow out all of that crud and restore some of your radiator's lost cooling ability. If you can't, then consider replacing your radiator too, this time with a DeWitt (see these choices).
If you have tweaked the fan table settings, and the reason that you melted the connector, then replacing the connector with another OEM type, is going to end up with the same melted problem.
So one of the Tweaks that goes will do it is to direct connect the wires via soldering them together, with section of heat shrink on the soldered wires instead.
This is no the best band-aid for the problem, but all your really doing is moving the heat melting problem to the PWM connector to melt it isntead.
So before you do anything, figure out why the connector melted in the first place. If stock fan tables has not been touched, then the problem may be that the raditor fan bearings have gone dry, and they either need to be pulled to re-grease or replace them, or just replace the entire fan assembly isntead.
If the fan table has been tweaked to try to lower the engine temps, the fan bearings are still good, then it time to upgrade your radiator, so the fan does not have to run that hard instead.
thanks for the info, oh and my car is is an 09 z06 with a maxed out Paxton novi 1500 combo. So yes the fans are set to run at all times
thanks for the info, oh and my car is is an 09 z06 with a maxed out Paxton novi 1500 combo. So yes the fans are set to run at all times
Your problem is lack of airflow at lower speeds, which forces the fan to run longer and harder to suck in air through the intercooler, condenser, and radiator. GM sells a generic replacement connector, but don't buy it, since the wire size is too small. The individual wire butt connectors work best with tape or a sleeve covering to keep moisture (the biggest contributor to failure) out.
Dewitt's sells a dual fan set-up but it only fits their radiator. You might find one from a different supplier as a replacement for the OEM fan. You might consider a small pusher fan to fit on the driver's side of the intercooler.
09-14-2018, 04:15 PM
